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PHOTO DIY- 722.6X TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE

14K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  bodyart27  
#1 ·
Greets,

As I have posted in the past, DB has changed their mantra about the "sealed for life concept", on the new vehicles which have the 722.6X transmission.

Not to re-hash an old topic of "change or don't change", but this post is just meant for those who DO believe in changing the fluid. My target has always been 40,000 mile intervals.

I AM IN NO WAY PROMOTING GOING AGAINST WHAT IS IN YOUR OWNERS' MANUAL. YOU DO WHATEVER THE SPIRIT LEADS YOU. YOU MUST CONSIDER THE POSSIBLE REPERCUSSIONS SUCH AS WARRANTY VOID, ETC.

ONE NOTABLE THING ABOUT THIS PROCEDURE IS THE STRICT ADHERENCE TO "SURGICAL-LIKE" CLEANLINESS AT ALL STEPS, AND METICULOUS CARE TO NOT OVER OR UNDER-FILL THE TRANSMISSION. APPARENTLY, THESE BOXES ARE VERY SENSITIVE TO ANY DEGREE OF CONTAMINATION OR IMBALANCED FLUID LEVELS. IF YOU OVERFILL, YOU NEED TO SIPHON OUT EXCESS.

I opted for the "new" type fluid, designed for the new 7-Speed boxes. I had a long discussion with one of the engineers at MotherShip Montvale, who confirmed that the use of the "New" fluid- A.001.989.45.03.10 (which is also only 1/2 the cost of the "old" fluid A.001.989.21.03.10) IS ALLOWED!!



The usual CYA blah, blah stuff. I am not claiming any expertise. I make no bones about it, I am a novice mechanic. My projects are based on my interpretation of the WIS procedures, and/or outside sources. Do work at your own discretion.
 

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#3 ·
Beautiful DIY presentation.

Just went through your presentation and it is truly fine. I think that my Mother could do it, by following your clear presentation. When the time comes, I have copied this and certainly will use it. Thank you for taking the time and putting together this detailed presentation.:bowdown: :bowdown:

Telechronos

1999 S500 Grand Edition (mileage 36, 877)
 
#7 ·
That was exellent and well done. Im sure it will help a lot of people understand how to do a transmission service.
 
#8 ·
G-AMG said:
Greets,

As I have posted in the past, DB has changed their mantra about the "sealed for life concept", on the new vehicles which have the 722.6X transmission.

Not to re-hash an old topic of "change or don't change", but this post is just meant for those who DO believe in changing the fluid. My target has always been 40,000 mile intervals.

I AM IN NO WAY PROMOTING GOING AGAINST WHAT IS IN YOUR OWNERS' MANUAL. YOU DO WHATEVER THE SPIRIT LEADS YOU. YOU MUST CONSIDER THE POSSIBLE REPERCUSSIONS SUCH AS WARRANTY VOID, ETC.

ONE NOTABLE THING ABOUT THIS PROCEDURE IS THE STRICT ADHERENCE TO "SURGICAL-LIKE" CLEANLINESS AT ALL STEPS, AND METICULOUS CARE TO NOT OVER OR UNDER-FILL THE TRANSMISSION. APPARENTLY, THESE BOXES ARE VERY SENSITIVE TO ANY DEGREE OF CONTAMINATION OR IMBALANCED FLUID LEVELS. IF YOU OVERFILL, YOU NEED TO SIPHON OUT EXCESS.

I opted for the "new" type fluid, designed for the new 7-Speed boxes. I had a long discussion with one of the engineers at MotherShip Montvale, who confirmed that the use of the "New" fluid- A.001.989.45.03.10 (which is also only 1/2 the cost of the "old" fluid A.001.989.21.03.10) IS ALLOWED!!



The usual CYA blah, blah stuff. I am not claiming any expertise. I make no bones about it, I am a novice mechanic. My projects are based on my interpretation of the WIS procedures, and/or outside sources. Do work at your own discretion.
Could you please E Mail a copy of that to me? It would be much appreciated, and it would help a lot of apprentices. eric242340@yahoo.con.cn Well done :thumbsup:
 
#10 ·
Questions: Torque Converter and Magnet

Excellent photo-DIY tutorial (if only I had lift!). What are your thoughts and practice re. draining the fluid in the torque converter? You mentioned replacing the magnet - I assume that it just sticks in place and you just clean it up before putting it back in the pan.

Very useful info about the new (and cheaper) MB fluid!

Have you thought about posting this on the W-140 DIY Wikipedia site?
 
#11 ·
dmac_S500 said:
Excellent photo-DIY tutorial (if only I had lift!). What are your thoughts and practice re. draining the fluid in the torque converter? You mentioned replacing the magnet - I assume that it just sticks in place and you just clean it up before putting it back in the pan.

Very useful info about the new (and cheaper) MB fluid!

Have you thought about posting this on the W-140 DIY Wikipedia site?
There is no torque converter drain plug on the 722.6. Yes, just clean and put the magnet back in the pan.

I've read of checking the fluid temp. by pinging the outside of the pan with an IR thermometer. Sounds reasonable to me. A little cleaner than feeding a thermocouple down the dipstick tube.

Brett
 
#14 ·
Sadly MB did away w/ the TC drain plug shortly after they started using the .6:-/

If you want to get an additional quart+ of fluid out you can drop the valve body.

I've taken to buying 9 qt's and changing out 3 @ a time in an effort to make the fluid as fresh as possible.


Jonathan
 
#15 · (Edited)
I did this last year, and on my car, which is also equipped with the 722.620 5spd auto, there was a torque converter bolt which I opened and drained... another 2-3 quarts came out. To squeeze about 0.5 quart more, I put the compressed air nozzle into the torque converter bolt and gave it a quick squirt,.. and about 0.5-0.75 quarts came out after a few short bursts of air.

I refilled with the recommended dealer fluid and it took about 8 bottles of expensive stuff

my results: Noticably smoother shifts after the fluid and filter change, and it has been about a year/20k miles, and shifting is still smooth. I will repeat this next year after 40k miles again

There was no magnet inside my pan

should I stick one on the outside of the pan?
 
#17 ·
Nice... thanks a lot

Nice GMT-Master too...
 
#18 ·
Hazet Torque wrenches

I did the transmission service shortly after aquiring my S600. In theory it was very similar to my W126 chassis. The "tool" / dipstick I bought at the dealer - I think there are knock-offs available if you look around ebay, etc.

Measuring at the right temp and a level surfacce is critical. Also be sure to not over-tightening the pan.

I "sucked" the fluid out out rather than drain before dropping the pan.

I want to say my 97 had a torque convertor drain plug.... can't remember now.

By the way - love your Hazet torque wrenches - sooooo nice.... I have 4 different ones (different ranges) but I'd love to upgrade my low range ones to Hazet or SK :)
 
#20 ·
strip the holes where the bolts go in
damage the gasket
strip the hex hole in the bolt
break the bolt
make it really hard to remove the bolt for service...

etc...
 
#22 ·
overtighten

Biggest issue is that it will be prone to leak as the gasket will distort - assuming you didn't go nuts racheting it down - then the other issues apply.

I'm a big advocate of torquing to the FSM (Factory Service Manual)!