Interesting....because I asked you back then how the tank looked inside, i.e., was it galvanized, lined etc. Nothing...silence, so I guess you pretty much want advice sometimes, but pick whom you respond to. I can remember some yrs back on another site, when you'd never had the head off an engine before.....now you have your own expert advice site. I guess a lifetime of working on equipment means squat, but the fast and dirty comes easy here with some. Good luck with your tank.:thumbsup:

Kevin

 

It wasn't due to ignorance, I was living in an apt complex at the time and removing the tank in the parking lot wasn't really an option unfortunately...Finally out of that place now. There are also fines on the lease for working on your car, so I was already pushing it doing even basic items.

I now purchased a house as of last month and have somewhere to actually work on the car so I can remove the tank now.

I always read each and every post in threads, although I don't quote and respond to each individually. Each person who has done work has wisdom that I do not, and I appreciate all input. Collective knowledge goes a long way -- its the great thing that is an internet forum. I probably did not continue the thread as I was stuck with the 300TE (my only car driving right now) failing the AZ emissions by a tiny percentage, so I was concentrating on that and moving house is a PIA too as we all are aware

---

Its coming out as I am not receiving adequate fuel pump quantity, so its pointless replacing pumps until I start going back to front. If I'm removing the fuel, the lines to get to the strainer (which I've read is a royal PIA replacing with tank still in) I may as well just pull the tank and have it cleaned.

Thanks for info about the insulation, I remember seeing that on the diagram now...I'll see if I can get a screwdriver behind to break it if possible although I know its a super tight fit back there.

 

^^^You can't know everything about everything.


It's four bolt's, wiring on the level sensor, three hoses. Now it may be stuck in its factory position due to the insulation material becoming really stuck.

Don't really know why it has to come out but you can clean it and install the new strainer without removing the tank.

 

^^^You can't know everything about everything.

^^^^^Ditto...even a good MB mechanic is learning new things as he goes along and refining his skills, or he's an average $hack. Clark was good MB mechanic here, but the young lions somehow knew more so he left.

Kevin

 

I stay in regular contact with Clark and yes, he is a very good MB mechanic. Several months ago, he re-located back to the Ft. Lauderdale area and is working at a MB dealer nearby.

Clark has been facing and dealing with some very serious health challenges, hence his seeming departure from this forum.

 

Clark's absence/departure from this board was over a yr ago...probably more (I lose track of time). I wish him the best...sorry to hear about his health issues.

Kevin

 

Got it! Phew....

Looks like it wasn't moving due to the headrests which lean down slightly. I ended up just chopping the two fuel return lines because the clips were difficult to repress. Can't hurt to get fresh ones anyway.

The main fuel line to the pumps looks in good condition, possibly not original?, so I will reuse it. It came off pretty easy too.

Looks like I'm gonna need a big socket or wrench to get the strainer out....Don't have anything big enough right now.

 

Looks like I'm gonna need a big socket or wrench to get the strainer out....Don't have anything big enough right now.

A pair of channel lock pliers work for me, I have the socket somewhere, it's not torqued real tight.

 

You'll need a 46mm socket to get the strainer out. If you can't find it at Sears/Home Depot, you'll probably have to get it from Baum Tools, Samstag sales, or somebody who sells German specialty tools.

When replacing the strainer, be sure to check the replacement piece on the metal nut portion. Since this is for your 260E, it must be stamped SUPER (gasoline). Don't use a diesel strainer, even though it will fit just fine. Also check to make sure it comes with a new rubber o-ring seal.

 

Now that it's on the ground it's decision time: 500E tank will hold more fuel.

 

Alternatively, you can use the hi-cap tank from a '95 diesel. Same 23 gallon tank as the 500E, but without the 500E parts price tag.

 

I have the OE MB Strainer part # 201 1 470 04 06 <--- got it from the EPC for my fuel tank so should be good.

Got a large adjustable wrench, so gonna give it a shot and see if I can crack that 46mm socket. I tried sears/autozone and a few others in the area and they dont carry it, so we will see if I can get by otherwise I'll have to order online.

 

Managed to get the fuel level sender off using the wrench -- I peeked inside and I see some crud, but it looks OK. I couldn't get the strainer out though due to it being further recessed in the tank.

I do see some rust, but its around the strainer in that area? It looks like its blocked off, almost a separate chamber? Why would that section have rust, but the rest of the tank look perfect?

I wish I could get a photo, but the flash and camera lens can't get the shot with the size of the hole...

 

I do see some rust, but its around the strainer in that area? It looks like its blocked off, almost a separate chamber? Why would that section have rust, but the rest of the tank look perfect?..

Perhaps somewhere in the car's lifetime it got a couple of bad batches of fuel that had water contamination and/or sat for a extended period of time and created the perfect storm for water/corrossion to start in the tank.

It is unusual for rust to be at the strainer area, unless the car sat with bad fuel for a very long time with the tank almost empty.

When storing a vehicle for more than 90 days, I always recommend filling it up as much as it will hold and add Stabil fuel stabilizer.

 

Why did you pull the tank again? I missed why, just wondering. I re read everything I am just blind today I guess.

 

Prior time it did not come out....I ran into issues.

Found a sears (although an hour away) that carried a 1-13/16th in socket in 3/4 drive....Got a 3/4in -> 1/2in adapter at Harbor Freight and and old strainer is out.

Doesn't look bad either....

I'm thinking this may be something I don't have to take to a shop to fix.

Whats the best acid product to clean the tank with? The walls look perfect, its just the section around the strainer that has some "slight" rust. Is that section something to do with hard cornering and keeping fuel available?

After clean, any sealer or anything?

I got a few photos to come out ok....You can see not bad at all inside!

So I'm guessing its gonna be new fuel pumps and possibly FPR and/or accumulator. I may junkyard grab those 2 though since they are expensive.

EDIT: Just got some better shots.

Very interesting!! I don't see any rust at ALL!

I wonder what the hell happened then? Maybe a bad batch of gas nuked the fuel system?
I saw the particles though, so SOMETHING was running through the system!

Hmmm....

 

Alright, so let's get back to the drawing board

Fuel Tank + Strainer --- GOOD.
Fuel Pressure --- GOOD.
Fuel Injector Spray Pattern --- GOOD.
Fuel Pump Volume --- INADEQUATE.
---> FSM states:

If delivery is less than 1L in 40sec test following points:

a) Check fuel strainer for blockage ---> GOOD.
b) Fuel Pump voltage is at least 11.5v
c) Check for fuel line restrictions (pinched lines)
d)Pinch of leak line between fuel accumulator and intake damper. Check Delivery and if its good, replace accumulator
e) Replace fuel filter ---> GOOD.

I'll get the fuel tank shaken and stirred to get rid of those "bits" it has at the bottom then put it back in the car and get some gas back in it. From there I'll go through the list....

Question: Anyone understand the charcoal filter part of the fuel system? I have no idea about anything related to it. Is there anything that side I should be checking at all?

 

Maybe the bits what you interpreted as rust are bits of rubber due to internal fuel line disintegration??? That might explain why you see contaminating particles between the strainer up to the injector???

 

New to the site and not sure if this is posted in the right location but, I'm trying to get the gas tank out of an '89 300TE to have a small cut on the side of it welded. Is there anything on top of the tank to disconnect? Like a fuel sender, etc.? How would you get to it to disconnect if that is what is holding it in, take out the upholstery liner in the back cargo space to get at the top? Is there an access plug or something?

I have all the bolts, etc. off from the bottom but something seems to be holding the tank in from up top. I'm reluctant to just apply more force. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Id agree with the other post ps2cho. The filter if its intact wouldnt let that kind of sediment through. A break down in the lines or something after. Years of corrosion in fuel line break down from your good upkeep and use of car broke it all loose. Like driving a car that was under a tree for a decade.

 

You are right....its something towards the front of the car. It goes tank -> strainer -> pumps -> accumulator -> distrib -> fpr -> charcoal filter

right?

Any ideas about possible charcoal filter breakdown? I have no idea about anything in that system. Do they ever need any work?
At least I know the tank and strainer are perfect now. Won't ever have to think about it again.

 

As I stated early on in this post, I'd be looking at the following components the hardest

1) all fuel hoses
2) fuel accumulator
3) fuel pressure regulator

I doubt about the charcoal filter breaking down. That filter is only supposed to deal with fuel vapors.

That tank looks way too clean to have it sent out for cleaning.

Tip: If it were my car, I'd replace every rubber hose/component in the fuel system. I feel that the issue is related to rubber disintegration. You just have to find where. You'll like find some measly hose that's hit the quarter century as being the culprit.

 

I'm coming in way late on this one. Too bad since i pulled the tank from my 260E very recently. And will have to pull it again.

I'll save the sob story for another post but my tank was ruined by a bad filler cap or a plugged vapor line. The pumps developed enough vacuum to collapse the tank so it had to be replaced. Here are some pics for your enjoyment.

 

Augapfel....didn't you post something once about a carbon canister having a hole in the top from deterioration? And didn't that cause some sort of contamination problem?

Kevin

 

I'll go ahead and take your advice and replace all the hoses with new ones and purchase a new accumulator too + pumps. I'll grab a FPR from a yard since they are very expensive ($460!!).

As for rubber hoses, other than everything near the tank, are there any others in or around the system? I believe there is one on the return pipe after the fpr right?

Fuel pumps seem to be cheapest here (free shipping + no tax for me)
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...pn_cat_name:Fuel+Systems+&+Components,universal:0)&refType=Brand&refValue=Bosch

But which one? Anybody know the differences between the 3? Would the cheapest one work?

 

I checked the EPC, but I cannot seem to find a parts diagram that lists all the hoses from the fuel tank to pump? Also the rubber hose that goes from the fuel pressure aka return line...

Anybody know where I can find part #'s?

 

If you mean the rubber sections of the fuel lines, I just bought some hose by the yard at a factors, just make sure it's fuel grade, and metric.
I've had rust problems with both my T's fuel lines, both went inside the rubber mounting by the tank, I cut the steel pipes back to good metal and extended the rubber hose sections to match...job jobbed!

cheers!

 

Got all hoses ordered this AM....3 were found at autohaus, the other three I had to special order with phil @ peachparts.

Here is the list for those in the future (duel pump system)

Fuel lines
124 470 51 75 fpr to return line
124 476 03 26 return line to tank
124 470 37 75 pump to accumulator
124 470 69 75 tank to filter
124 470 80 75 filter to feed line
0007603012110 crush washers x6
124 470 10 75 feed line to distrib

Cost a little over $200, but I think I am not too far behind since I didn't have to pay to get the tank cleaned that I was banking on.

That is absolutely every single one minus a generic one I believe that goes from the return line/vapor that looks to be just a generic hose. I'll have to get back under the car once more

 

I just took all pumps and accumulator out...

One of the pumps still had some of the old brown gasoline that I was having issues with before....
Why would there still be bad gas stuck in the pump if I have been running it recently and everything has been coming out clean?
Could this indicate anything about pump condition?

Debating replacing them anyway, but its the cost that hurts...

 

Hey ps2cho,

I believe the pumps have got a internal non-serviceable strainer screen which is likely why you spotted gummed gasoline from one of your pumps.

With all the ghosts you've been chasing on the 260E fuel system, I think it would be in your interest to replace the pumps as well.

Anyway, I might be able to be of some help since I have 2 good used Bosch/MB pumps in stock. Just send me the Bosch as well as the MB p/n#s so I can crosscheck compatibility.

PM me if you're interested.

 

Is this one punctured or just scratched?