I've had the SAME issue. Unable to find the Fault.

Disconnect Battery. Wait 10 minutes or so, and Re-connect. Problem solved, for me.

Fortunately, this exercise happens only rarely... Once or twice per YEAR, not every 2-3 days like you have.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and waiting 10+ minutes?? Might be worth a try, at least.

G

 

Isn't it the same to take out the fuses, and then put them in again?
Disconnect, and Connect Power again?

 

I admit it, I don't comprehend ALL of the Computerized Gizmos in these cars. I do know that they are often "Interconnected" to other Control Modules and Networks.

Sooo, to answer your question? I don't think a Whole-System Power-Down is the Same as pulling the Fuse which supplies the Door Module.

You don't have anything to LOSE by a Hard ReSet. (other than having to Re-Synch a few odds & ends). Give it a try, and report back.

The key to it is: Don't just "Disconnect/Re-Connect" for a few seconds. Let it sit Un-Powered for 10 or 15 minutes.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you! :^)

G

 

Most likely, a body canbus module is failing. It may or may not be the item that doesn't work.

 

WAG advice - given the myriad of solid state components stuff into the
car, it may be challenging trying to isolate the cause in order to solve
the problem. but even after a disconnect (or fuse pop out) residual
energy may be retained.

one of the advice given by other forum folks has included battery
disconnect of a longer duration, including tapping of the two opposing
battery leads together, presumably with the intent on purposely shorting
the non-powered circuit into releasing any residual voltage.

 

I disconnected the minus, and connected it again so we will see tomorrow.
But disconecting both!! Is that necessary? Isn't it a circuit???
If it fails again I will disconect both.
I got other parts than the old ones, but I believe that is an upgrade. From 2088201326 on one side to 2108207626. I don't think it matters. They both acts the same way with the same trouble.
I had a W124 for 16 years without any trouble, but this W210 car is a p. of s.

 

It's your choice to follow suggestion - and the suggestion was for full battery disconnect for 10+ minutes - and yes, some owners then take the +/- battery cables and touch those together to "discharge" the internal electric circuit..

 

Isn't it a chance to do something wrong when "discharging" the electrical system.
Is the order to disconnect the + last, and then connect the + first again.

 

I disconnected only the minus yesterday, but it did not help. The drivers side dropped out today, so now I will try both +/-.

 

I disconnected both +/- yesterday, but today both DCM's have stopped working.
I thought Electronics either is working, or not. In my case it Works for some hours and then drops out.
WHY?? Please, anyone know if DCM's are connected to any other "boxes" that might cause he trouble?

 

I talked to the Mercedes workshop today, and they could not say anything about the problem. They could diagnose the problem, but that would only tell if the units work or not, not why they don't work.
It is wery strange, since the two units have separate fuses and fuse boxes. They don't have anything i "common" as far as I know??

 

Like dsmith and I said, these cars are not just simply "Power going to the Door Module".

The vehicle is, literally, a "Computer Network" of interconnected Modules, Switches, CAN's (Controller Area Networks) etc.

Also, for a mere Reset? You don't need to play with the Battery itself... You can simply Disconnect the Ground Connection, near the floor, bottom side of Right Rear Seat. It is behind a small plastic panel.

If it makes you feel better? Mine just went out this morning, as well.

What *I* am going to do when I get home?? First thing: Do a Battery Conductance Test.
Since these "computers on 4 wheels" are soooooooo sensitive to Voltage, it is imperative the correct voltage is present.
I will also do a Battery Service and Charge:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1578933-photo-diy-battery-service.html

 

What is a body canbus module? Is it a part/parts I can replace myself, or what? Are there many of these, and where are they placed?
Anyone there, please give me "something".

 

Search my user name and "canbus" and you will get an idea of how far you can diag. You'll need to do a few hours of internet reading to come up to speed on what canbus technology is.

Here is a document to get you started.

http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdfs/507 Systems I/507 HO CAN B (ICC) 10-28-02.pdf

 

Oddie, I don't mean to rain on your parade but popping the fuses or disconnecting the battery either - or + terminals will not solve your problems, at least permanently. Temporarily yes.
As mentioned above posts, these things are computers on wheels, so your problem is hidden a lot deeper, focus on understanding CAN BUS philosophy.
I have the same problem since 2011 and believe me I tried everything, I disconnected the battery so many different ways, I waited 10 minutes to 2 hours, on one occasion I left it disconnected 24 hours, when I went to a Caribbean cruise I left it disconnected a whole week, I danced around it, I poured some sugar on it, I prayed etc etc etc
Since I mostly ride by myself in the car the passenger side is not important for me, I usually leave it alone and also the fuse is under the rear seat in a more inconvenient location but I need my driver window at the drive thru coffee lines and like to be able to change my seat settings in city or highway driving and the fuse is conveniently located under the hood at driver side. If my driver side is inop, it only takes me 10 seconds to pop the hood, take the fuse out and put it back in then my driver seat/window/mirror works again.
Frequency? Sometimes I have to do it twice a day and sometimes it works beautifully for 2-3 weeks.
Another thing I'm thinking more about G Man's voltage theory, when I take the car for long trips (like more than 300 miles) problem almost disappeares, probably battery gets a better charge, who knows? My battery is about 4 years old but I feel like I gotta check the voltage regulator.

One thing to remember, you have to take the fuse and put it back either when the car is running or the ignition is on.
This is in my to do list, hooking my Carsoft and trying to sort out the issue as soon as the weather gets a little warmer or maybe around spring time.
Good luck and enjoy your ride.
Al

 

Thanks for the tip about the CANBUS. I am reading about it right now, trying to understand a little.
As far as I understand the Professional Mercedes workshops should be able to find trouble With the CANBUS if they are a little skilled and have the right Tools and instruments? (Oscilloskope)
The last option is to put in a main switch, easily accessed somewhere. Tractors and boats have this.

 

I wonder if anybody out there have the Complete CAN BUS diagram for the W210 1998-mod?
I think I will try to isolate the problem by disconnecting one by one, and see what happens. :|
Long job, but is it silly to even try?:smile

Another thing: There are people on this forum with more or less the same trouble, but the "genious" at the local Mercedes workshop said he never experienced this trouble before.:banghead:

Thanks, to all helpers out there.

 

Now I have had the rear doors dsconnected from the CAN BUS, and the front doors still works perfectly after one week!
The left rear door light stopped working on wednesday, so that might be the problem. I hope.:thumbsup:

 

After one more week of disconnecting the dcm's, I think I have narrowed the problem to the rear right door. That same door has been the problem for others too. Wery strange.
Pelican Parts have different prices on the left and right motors at the rear, why?? Do they know about the problem, and making business selling the problem motor more expensive?
The right rear window is rarely used because of the kids seat is next to it, so it s no problem.
Thanks, to all the people with useful and informative info on this forum.:grin