Flushing to some means running a cleaning agent through it. Don't do it.

A transmission fluid change is rather easy for your model. You should be able to drain the torque converter along with the pan. That will change of the majority of the fluid - about 7 quarts. Refill with 4 quarts, start the engine, then fill in the remaining fluid charge. If it's been neglected, you should also drop the pan and clean it.

For the rear differential, you have a drain plug and a fill plug. It's important to remove the fill plug first. It's difficult to remove. This way you will be sure that you can fill the new fluid once the old fluid is drained out.

 

If trans is cold, its probably no big deal. If trans does it after a good warm up, then might look into it. Mines quite firm when cold on the 1-2 shifts.

No need to flush, just drain. dont forget Torque converter as well. The trans is an old school 4sp, so no real heavy tech.

 

Thanks for yalls info.
The transmission is more pronounced when its cold but I still feel it does it even when its warm. Some guy told me it could be a valve or something like that. Also heard about a B2 piston...
I'm taking the car to be looked at by a trusted shop for them to tell me what they think is wrong. Then go from there...as in, fix myself if I can. I'm a student that just had to have him dream car now...but I'm pretty good at auto related stuff so I feel like I can tackle the aforementioned maintenance s for sure. If it get more serious than that we'll have to see. Appointment is set for friday morning.

 

You can dial out the firmness and get buttery shifts, but its at a cost of faster wear to your friction plates.
So the firmness of shifts is actually good for making the trans last longer. Just as long as its not banging the driveline apart in the process.

 

Well done with your dream-car purchase. Hope it works out for you and that you enjoy working on it as much as many people around here do. Not a bad car to be seen at college in, and good to know that young guys are getting into 124's.

Here's a thread I made a while back about transmission servicing... it may be of interest, I learned a lot.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...124-e-ce-d-td-class/1650640-transmission-service-your-experiences-required.html

Good luck, happy cruising.

 

Thanks,
The car is most definitely a joy to drive. I feel very very blessed to have this car and be 25. Get tons of looks in it too!!! The car is truly, as I've heard it mentioned by someone else, a young classic.

I read the stream that was posted previous to this comment. Thankyou for that information. Very good info there! I want to do as much as I can on this car myself. Gave me the greatest sense of accomplishment when I replaced my lamp switch with a working one and oiled my squeaking blower motor. No need to pay someone else to to that! haha

One quick question, when I drain the TC do I need to plug it back up before I drain the pan or can they simply drain together? I guess this is a sequence question...

 

Actually looking back at Kestas post, I should be able to do both at the same time. Makes sense.

 

Any order. They can drain together. The trick is to turn the torque converter until the drain plug is seen at the bottom.

 

I feel like I remember someone was saying that there more that one plug on the TC. True or? and whats the best method to turn the TC? saw someone used a wrench have heard of other starting the engine till it was on the bottom but that sounds like to much wear on a starter...

 

Either turn the engine with a wrench on the dampner nut (a mirror helps), or walk it around using the flywheel teeth and a screwdriver.

I'm pretty sure there's only one plug.

 

You can also turn the torque convertor with a screwdriver/lever since it has little bumps in it...

Turning using crank with a big breaker bar using a mirror or a helper is the best since its not risky or makes scratches on the TC.

 

Again, thanks for all you guys advice. Can't wait for the weekend! Others go out and drink...I work on my car. But of course, a drive will be in order afterwards.

 

Don't know if all the engines have the same size crankshaft bolt, but mine had 27 mm what was in my set. Older engines don't really need long breaker bar to turn - 1 footer should be enough.
Screwdriver pushing the converter or flywheel? Pluese.
We play with our dogs on weekends

 

Cute dogs for sure.
Have any of you cleaned the "strainer"? I that another name for valve body? These bama-chanics...

 

There is no strainer in the transmission.

The filter element is one-time use only and must be replaced with a new filter at every service interval (ideally every 25K) along with a new pan gasket.

Remove drain bolt at bottom of pan and let fluid drain.

Remove drain bolt at bottom of torque converter and let fluid drain.

Re-install both bolts making sure crush washers are present during re-install.

Clean pan and surrounding areas using suitable rag

Remove pan and check for metal filings (some fine metal dust/sludge is acceptable)

Clean inside of pan using parts cleaner tab or brake cleaner solvent spray and let pan dry completely

Remove old filter from valve body. Make sure all remnants of filter gasket are removed

Install new filter onto valve body

Install new pan gasket

Install pan

Fill transmission using conventional high quality Dexron-III (Chevron, Valvoline MaxLife) and fill very gradually until fluid registers on the tranny dipstick. Top off with engine running at full temp. Do not overfill.

 

good information! thanks for the step by step. The Dextron III has to be non-synthetic from what I hear...?

the guy that mentioned the strainer was some mechanic that probably didn't know exactly what he was talking about since he admitted that it had been awhile since he had worked on a Benz as old as mine. Guy worked at the dealership which does not have such a good reputation when in comes to the service dept.

 

The so-called transmission filter is more of a strainer. It is not filtering the clutch dust, just keeping the metal shavings down.
From all the transmissions I service, I have strong reason to believe that the one on 1997 model had factory fluid at around 200,000 miles.
While the filter had only few aluminum shavings in it (I did cut it open) the steel shavings have been hanging on magnetic speed sensor, while bottom of the pan had heavy dust residue and goo-like fluid. Also the top of valve body had lot of dust residue on it. The transmission never had any issues with all of the above, although new fluid made the gear changes softer.

 

makes sense, anywhere else I can buy the filter aside from the dealership or online? The ones online all seem to be made in China...wanted to go with MB quality but the dealership wants 50 bucks for the filter.

 

Shop around. Once you find the part number - enter it in Google search and that will list you suppliers, very often with prices in the headlines.
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