I believe the oil pump is driven with the distributor. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor's turning.

 

Aren't the oil pumps chain driven directly off the crankshaft, was the chain reinstalled after oil pump replacement?

Also, it takes up to 30 seconds to a minute to build up oil pressure once the oil filter lid retaining bolt has been removed and filter replaced, that's why I always remove the CPS wire from the EZL during an oil change so since you've done all this work maybe your mechanic hasn't let the engine turn long enough to build pressure. Just a guess though.

 

You will likely need around 400-500 rpms to start building oil pressure. You may not even initially see oil pressure until a quicker engine speed is achieved by the engine running on it's own.

If you aren't getting any oil pressure at all, well the mechanic has either forgotten to install something or has got something backwards. The only way I would think the oil passages could become blocked is to install a head gasket incorrectly. Possibly backwards or upside down, but to me, you should see a problem before getting farther than just setting the gasket in place.

I hope that it's just something not resolved, but sounds like your mechanic may need to disassemble some of the engine again. And hopefully knows how to set the cam timing and adjust the valves correctly.

Was there a reason you were originally having the heads redone and timing chain replaced?

 

Some oil pumps need to be packed with vaseline to create enough "lift" on first start up after a recon - just my two bobs worth - cheers

 

I think you`ve hit the nail on the head. If the pump was fitted dry, without Vaseline, there`s no way it will pick up oil from the sump. You have two choices from here: Either temporarily overfill the sump with oil so that the level in the sump reaches the point of the pump gears or, insert a high pressure air hose in the oil fill hole whilst someone else cranks the motor. Both these techniques, whilst they may sound crude and probably are, work, and will save you the trouble of disassembling the front of the motor.

Cheers,

Mick.

 

On the M116/M117 any oil you poor into the filter housing will go straight down to the oil pan hence why there is no oil in the canister when you remove the filter, once you remove the bolt the oil drains. That is why you remove the CPS wire from the EZL during an oil change on these engines thus preventing the engine from starting while getting the oil pressure built back up when done. That is what I do every oil change and I'm sure a few others do the same. There is a thread about this very topic.

 

If he had the timing cover off i hope your mechanic re-installed the oil pump chain to the crankshaft correctly and then torque'd down the bolts securing the oil pump to the bottom of the block, otherwise you wont get any oil pressure

 

Did you add oil back in?

 

Thak you Guys,

i am considering all your suggestions.

but is it really posisble to incorrectly install the chain which drives the oil pump?

what is the torque for the oil pump bolts?

my car does not have an oil cooler,see attachment of the engine side. there is a black insert, with a spring loaded valve i think. what does it do ? is it inlet to engine or outlet?

thanks
c

 

Full 3 bar pressure: Problem Solved

Hi All

Thank you for all your ideas and suggestions.

managed to get full 3 bar pressure.

The mechanic told me that he did the following.

1. removed the oil filter housing
2.he pushed the spring loaded valve shown in the pic with black rubber .some dirty oil escaped.
3. then he cranked engien without oil filter housing. oil started to flow.
4. he replaced the oil filter housing. cranked engine, and oil filled housing
5. inserted filter closed top with lid.
6. cranked engine and 3 bar pressure in a second.

This saturday i will visit the mechanic and start the 560 sec.hopefully i will drive it home.

i will then be a proud owner of a 380, 500, 560 sec

regards
C

 

Joy Short Lived

Hi All

Tried to start the mercedes 560 sec yesterady.

oil pressure was good, all timing marks ok. But the engine never fire. fuel is comming into the Fuel Distributor. Also poured some fuel into the throttle body.no start.

My mechanic checked for spark on the no 1 plug lead as we cranked the engine. NO SPARK.

now what. we also changed the transistized coil with one that works. Still no start.

He then indicated that it could be the ignition control module?

any thoughts on this matter, is he right ? what else could I check before changing out ignition control module?

the car is ready to drive of i get it to fire.

thanks
C

 

Could be the ignition control module. But there is also a crankshaft position sensor. If the sensor is not plugged in or is defective, there will be no spark. Could also be a bad distributor or coil.

Was there other problems before the repairs were done? Was the engine even running or did you but a non running car?

 

Hi Cody,

bought the 560 SEC as a non runner for 1000 USD.

the previous owner said that there was a radiator leak and the car was driven by someone who did not know this and eventually blew the head gasket.

i had a mechanic strip the engine, had the heads professionally refurbished,replaced timing chain and guides, gaskets,water pump, oil pump.

assembled the engine. and tried to start

would appreciate a step by step approach to resolve the spark problem on a 560 SEC. it is a 1991 model.

thanks
c

 

C,

Section 15-540 in the manual takes you through troubleshooting the ignition system for no start. If you still have no start after that, then go to 07.3-121 for the CIS system.

Hopefully you can get your mechanic to carefully go through step by step as Mercedes has outlined.

Good luck!

Mike