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4Matic Front Lower Control Arm Outer Bushing

20352 Views 59 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Kuhyuan
I thought I would make a thread to the fellow 4Matic owners who may have problems with the front lower control arm outer bushings.
I started to have cluncking noises coming from the front suspension whenever I go over little bumps.
After I visually inspected with a pry bar (watch video below),
and after hours of researching and price checking, I decided to go ahead and replace the bushings only (not the control arms themselves).

Please make sure to jack the car up safely on jack stands. I used wramps for the rear wheels as well. I used 6 tons jack stands, but you can also use the 3 tons.
You will need to remove the 18mm bolt and nut of the sway bar (torsion bar, also called stabilizer bar) linkage to be able to remove the 21mm bolt holding the strut to the bushing. I might have been able to do without this by using a jack to lift the linkage up. This is something I regreted afterwards as I unintendedly dissassembled the linkage bolt/nut and eventually did not replace them. Check this post here (


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This is a great write up on lower control arm bushings

I did not want to spend $1K. Or mor to replace the arms, probably cost more than what the car is worth
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I am in the process of replacing all the bushings on both lower control arms
Removed both arms today, relatively easy. Noticed one of the sway bar endilink was bad, Ordered a new set , my fcp euro order showed up but was missing a item. Called them and they’re expediting the part, so I should have it by Wednesday. Will take it to a machine shop to have them press in the new bushings . I don’t think I can do it, definitely worth paying a professional .

Hopefully I can get everything done by Thursday.

Trying to figure out how to torque everything with the weight of the car on all 4 wheels. I don’t have a ramp, maybe some blocks of wood?

Can someone provide me with torque settings for the control arms , ball joint and end links.

Will update when completed

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Waiting fir a missing strut bushing and hopefully can get it pressed in on Thursday

Bushing, look a little tired after 15 years

Found a small cut on endlink boot, also the joint is very loose compared to the passenger side.

Hopefully all this will take care of the awful moaning, creaking and clicking noise.


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I just removed the sway bar mount to access the front bolts to remove the lower control arm.
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Took the LCA in, they couldn’t do it because it’s aluminum and one of the bushing was too complicated or a liability for them.

Recommended another shop that would do it for $5 more per control arm. He wasn’t fond of corteco bushings and asked why i didn’t get Lemforder?

Said will be ready tomorrow afternoon .

Thank you EZZO for the info on the self locking bolts. I will have to go with the thread locker option, too late to order parts and also the bolts would be additional $50-$60. I can buys a lot of locktite for that money
So I got my lower control arm back, but was charged $159 plus $5 for shop fees to install all 3 sets of bushings.


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Looks like they have done a good job from the photos.
They did a pretty good job well worth the moneY, There is no more squeaking, groaning or clunking noise from the LCAs.

Now I have other issues that needs Attention

Trying to figure out why it feels so harsh over small bumps and expansion joints, it literally feel like the strut is not absorbing any of the impacts from the road. No problem with long smooth stretches of road.

It definitely needs new tires and a alignment, would this cause the harsh ride?

Have appointment this Thursday to have the Indy look at it.

The airmatic raises and lowers without any issue.

There is a popping noise when I thorn the wheel all the way to the left or right. Seems like something is binding, Iam inclined to thinks the CV axels are bad.

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Ezzo, you were correct
It was loose ball joints and some other nuts and bolts that were not tightened correctly
The Indy basically told me that the bolts need to be really tightened and cranked down.

The car rides 100x better, no clunking rattling or strange popping noises

This took care of the harsh ride I complained about earlier

The best part was he only charged me for the oil change, no extra charge for looking over the suspension and tightening the suspension

They’re Hoover Mercedes located in Parker, Colorado. I would highly recommend them

Ordered tires and will get a alignment next week
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So a final update,
Installed new Yokohama avid ascent GT tires 245-45-17 and a alignment at Indy Hoover Mercedes. It’s amazing what a new set of tires can do .

It drives and handles like new, ocassional slight noise from suspension. Almost feels like a new car

Thanks to EZZO and everyone else who posted on this site.
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Just a update on the replacement bushings for the LCA.

this is my mothers car and I don’t drive it often. She told me it was making the thumping noise again . after looking at it. Seems like the bushings are shot and the whole vehicle seems unstable. Getting the Indy shop to confirm and see how much it would be with Mercedes’ OEM parts installed. I know the parts would be at least $1000 plus labor. Just too cold in the garage to do anything automotive.

she’s said it’s been going in for more than 6 months. Hopefully it’s the only issue anything more it would be time to trade it in for a Honda or Toyota,
Usually it’s the non 4matic front suspension parts, that are cheaper. 4matics command a premium for certain parts.
The bushings should have lasted longer. Do you remember when you installed the LCA, did you tighten the bolts/nuts when the suspension had the full load of the car? The bolts should be tightened in the normal bushing position.. Otherwise, there will be a lot of tension on the bushings which leads to premature wear.
yes, I did follow all recommendations and tightened with the full weight of the vehicle.

Its Just too cold to work on cars in the garage. I’ll keep everyone informed
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I just picked up the car, apparently it was the upper control arms., not the lower control arms

The ball joints were bad and a sway bar link was loose.

I replaced those parts myself along with the LCA about 2 years ago, wasn’t OEM parts.

the new Parts were $500 non OEM and labor was $1100. Feel so stupid having to pay for 7hours of labor. I questioned the labor they reduced it by $300 from the original amount.

I guess in the end most mechanics overcharge and go by book hours, instead of actual labor hours. Just my own personal opinion.
It’s cold here also, -4 this morning.

the issue I had was all those parts is that I replaced all of them at the same time as the LCA. All non OEM parts. my only issue was that they charged full book hours versus actual labor time. But when it need to be done, you need to pay.

seems better, but so cold that I only drove it home .

hopefully that’s the end of the suspension problems
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Sorry, for the misunderstanding.

I had replaced most of the suspensions parts in the last two years. Replaced both front airmatic struts, sway bars, bushings, upper control arm and ball joints. LCA we’re refurbished With new bushings and ball joints all torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.

I was just upset that the same parts had failed so soon. The vehicle only has 66K Since buying it new since 2004.

again none of the parts were OEM Mercedes. Only the airmatic struts were remanufactured by Arnott.

thanks for letting me rant.
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