Posts by ps2cho
1 - 14 of 60 Posts
Thoughts on the condition of mine? They don't seem to flex as much as yours does in the video, but there seems to be a small crack as you can see.
I'm leaning that maybe this is also the clunk I'm getting over bumps? Want to see if you agree since you've had your bushing completely out and probably was able to inspect better.
![]()
I'm leaning that maybe this is also the clunk I'm getting over bumps? Want to see if you agree since you've had your bushing completely out and probably was able to inspect better.
Ok great thanks! I’ve ordered two new bushings.
I think the problem originated from the fact I mistakenly torqued the new arm when the car was not on the ground at ride height.
The arm replacement does not require anything special, disconnect the ball joint (lower) and lower strut forks, unbolt, and remove, that’s it.
The engine lifting you are talking about is for the anti roll bar removal. The FSM states it’s required to remove it, however even that you can get around if you grind down an Allen key
I’ve ordered new bushings and will press them in and hopefully that’s going to resolve the issue! It started clunking about 10-15k after I replaced the arm and I’ve replaced the strut, coil, sway bar links, inner arm bushings (they were cracked and twisted already due to my mistake).
I feel like this is the problem finally and am very thankful your thread popped up and made me jog my brain thinking this has GOT to be it!
In addition, my chassisears tells me the noise is from or around this area.
Will update when I get them pressed in
I think the problem originated from the fact I mistakenly torqued the new arm when the car was not on the ground at ride height.
The arm replacement does not require anything special, disconnect the ball joint (lower) and lower strut forks, unbolt, and remove, that’s it.
The engine lifting you are talking about is for the anti roll bar removal. The FSM states it’s required to remove it, however even that you can get around if you grind down an Allen key
I’ve ordered new bushings and will press them in and hopefully that’s going to resolve the issue! It started clunking about 10-15k after I replaced the arm and I’ve replaced the strut, coil, sway bar links, inner arm bushings (they were cracked and twisted already due to my mistake).
I feel like this is the problem finally and am very thankful your thread popped up and made me jog my brain thinking this has GOT to be it!
In addition, my chassisears tells me the noise is from or around this area.
Will update when I get them pressed in
OK with you now -
There is just enough space to fit a 23/24mm wrench on the nut.
If you already have the camber bolts installed then you’re a little stuck because you can’t untighten it from the bolt end.
What I did to remove the camber bolts was to remove the sway bar. To remove the sway bar upper bolt that is partially blocked by the subframe is to grind down an Allen key. It’s fiddly but it worked for me.
With a non-adjustable Lower arm bolt it’s easy since tou just hold the nut with a wrench and loosen from the bolt-side
My bushing arrives next week so I’ll update in my “suspension knock” thread the weekend after next and then get to the dealer for a true alignment with fresh tires if this fixes the issue (feeling confident this time)
OK so my parts arrived today and getting started.
I measured my bushing and came up with 51.90mm in diameter. Was hoping one of my other MB bushing tool kits had a cup of the right size, but unfortunately none were remotely close.
I know you mention you used a 1 7/8" socket, however you did some damage. In your experience, would you have preferred a slightly bigger or smaller socket?
I have a 50mm bearing race, however I'm not sure pushing the internal rubber that far in, if even for a short period is wise.
Want to make sure I can avoid any damage to the outer shell...any tips from your experience? going to do some thinking on what else might do the trick. Don't own a 1 7/8" socket so either way have to buy something.
I measured my bushing and came up with 51.90mm in diameter. Was hoping one of my other MB bushing tool kits had a cup of the right size, but unfortunately none were remotely close.
I know you mention you used a 1 7/8" socket, however you did some damage. In your experience, would you have preferred a slightly bigger or smaller socket?
I have a 50mm bearing race, however I'm not sure pushing the internal rubber that far in, if even for a short period is wise.
Want to make sure I can avoid any damage to the outer shell...any tips from your experience? going to do some thinking on what else might do the trick. Don't own a 1 7/8" socket so either way have to buy something.
OK was doing more searching last night through my tools, and there actually was a perfect size cup that was a missing part I set aside from another MB bushing kit. Should fit perfect for the reinstall, but going to have to disconnect the tie rod and the other end of the sway bar so I can move them out the way for enough space.
So are you saying the bushing needs to be both removed and reinstalled from the front (of the car) as it is slightly tapered?
So are you saying the bushing needs to be both removed and reinstalled from the front (of the car) as it is slightly tapered?
Well I dont know how you pressed this bushing in, the tolerances, even when I froze the bushing were still too big. No matter how I tried to insert the bushing, it just went in at an angle every time. Its as if the bushing is still 1mm too big. Even when I lined it up by hand, the bushing was larger than the hole its going into (and yes that was from the tapered "front" side of the arm).
This was not the case when I pressed in the "inner" lower arm bushings. This outer/strut bushing is on another level of difficulty.
I may just throw my hands up and buy another whole arm...
This was not the case when I pressed in the "inner" lower arm bushings. This outer/strut bushing is on another level of difficulty.
I may just throw my hands up and buy another whole arm...
Every time it kept going in at an angle the metal outer shell began digging in...
Unfortunately the shell is too warped to use now so I may give it another go and order a set of bushings before giving up.
I’ve completely removed the LCA from the car so I have have a good visual. Hoping round two will be more successful
Unfortunately the shell is too warped to use now so I may give it another go and order a set of bushings before giving up.
I’ve completely removed the LCA from the car so I have have a good visual. Hoping round two will be more successful
I'm telling you, its a piece of cake, IF you don't have the alignment bolt on the front bushing, which then requires the sway bar to be removed.
I believe in my suspension knock thread, I have photo's of part of removal for tools used anyway. EDIT: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w2...ension-steering-knock-driving-me-crazy-4.html post #36 on how to disconnect lower ball joint, then you just remove the LCA bolts and remove, thats it.
That's actually a great idea. I feel like the rubber is just slightly too big because of the bushing design with its cut-out section. The rubber stretches the outer shell. I've ordered two new bushings this morning on asap shipping so hopefully Tuesday I'll have two more and I'll try that method! :thumbsup:
Well a couple of worm clamps worked beyond expectations - what an amazing trick thanks Witek! Was very excited and had to come inside to post how easy this was now!
With the bushing almost all the way compressed, it slot in with basically no hassle at all.
Now to button it all up and see if the noise is gone!
PS: With the bushing all the way in, the outer shell is almost fully compressed. Without doing the compression trick, I can't believe you managed to press that bushing in without troubles!
![]()
![]()
With the bushing almost all the way compressed, it slot in with basically no hassle at all.
Now to button it all up and see if the noise is gone!
PS: With the bushing all the way in, the outer shell is almost fully compressed. Without doing the compression trick, I can't believe you managed to press that bushing in without troubles!
Been driving the car for a good hundred miles and unfortunately no dice on knock fix even if that bushing was bad - I’m going to take a closer look at the sway bar link though. Even though I’ve torqued up that nut correctly to 70nm I re-used it so going to see if it’s still moving under load.
I haven't got new bolts/nuts yet, but I threw an additional washer on, retightened above specs and its still making noise. I dont think its coming from the sway bar, however what I want to do is disconnect it completely and go for a drive so I have a foolproof way to remove it from the equation.
Unfortunately have been sick recently and only just got back to this yesterday. This week plan to disconnect and test it that way.
1 - 14 of 60 Posts
