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Homemade diagnostic code reader for MY90-95

1 reading
134K views 46 replies 27 participants last post by  rlambert911  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Diagnostic code reading has been discussed many times on this site. A lot of problems with our cars can be checked by doing this. this will work on cars up to about 1995.

I am sure many of you have already made your own code reader and know how valuable this can be. I hope some of you will photograph and post your code-readers as well for the benefit of anyone wanting to make one.

If you have not got your own, it's not that daunting a task. please read on and check the photos.

I made my reader following Bobterry99's advice on this site, and also with reference to this gentlemans website: http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione.MS_S500.html

The steps to making a code reader are as follows:

1. Print out the following circuit diagram and take to a good electronic store that have good staff to help. R1 is a resister. F1 is a fuse. D1 is a LED. S1 is a momentary switch. Get three banana plugs and 700mm - 1m of wire. The blue numbers refer to part numbers at a particular shop because the diagram is stolen from the website above.
[;)]

(There are different ways of making a code reader. Bobterry seems to have a LED with a resister in-built and leaves out the fuse because it is not needed. the LED/resister would be good to get. the fuse I'll leave up to you to decide.)

2. I soldered mine together as shown in the photo and placed into a black box. black is good because it makes reading the LED easier.

3. The diagnostic unit that this plugs into is under the bonnet to the right of the engine on the firewall. the cover just pulls up. on my 1990 500SL the unit has 16 sockets. later models have 38 (i think).

4. on my 16 socket unit I plug the red banana plug into 16 (Battery). the black banana plug into 1 (ground) and the yellow banana plug into the socket that you wish to test.

This is really all there is to it making it. simple and cheap. about US$10 all up and most of that was for the box.

This next part is about how to use it. BUT, I would encourage anyone wanting to do this to read previous posts by Bobterry99 on the subject. My knowledge on this part is only VERY BASIC.

5. Push the momentary switch for 2-4 seconds. This shorts the battery to the ground and starts the code. (don't worry, apprarently you can't damage anything). once the switch is released the LED will blink.

6. One blink appears to mean that everything on that socket is okay. more blinks are a code, write it down.

7. only one code is shown at a time. So repeat, and more codes might come. or not if nothing else is wrong.

8. to clear codes just push the momentary switch for about 8 seconds after you read each code.

Wonderful tool. Now if only i knew what each socket was for and what the codes mean!

here are the photos:
 

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#2 ·
This is great! Exactly what I need!

However, I have a '94 600 SL with the round 38 Pin connector. In order to get access to the individual pins you need a multiplexer socket going into the connector on one side and with 38 individual connectors on the top.

Any idea from where to get it? Mercedes part # is 6511004099 but they won't sell it to me.

Thanks -Stefan
 
#4 ·
Hi Bobterry99,

I just called the adapter 'Multiplexer' because that's what Mercedes calls it in their documents. it is a simple connector which gives easier access to the individual pins of the 38-Pin connector since the connector sits deep in the metal case and the pins are really small. Most people call it the 'Mushroom' due to its shape.

In the meantime I found two companies that have it available but it cost $240 plus shipping. That's pretty steep for a dumb adapter [:(!]

I've also checked in Germany without any luck so far!

Cheers -Stefan
 
#9 ·
Alright boys, finally got around to making a code-reader the other day. If you want to make one for your 16-socket (pre-1995?) 500SL, check this thread out. It literally does come out to $10, including spare transistors, leds, etc if you muck it up.

Note: make sure you check the polarity of the LED. I'm 0/2 with my LED installations. I messed up once trying to replace my temperature LED light. Finally, after a year I decided to go back in the dash and fix it today lol - light!!. I messed up putting my code-reader together. Quick soldering fix and she worked.

View attachment 304705


Alright, so I pulled some codes and trying to make sense of things. Now, I know that several codes have probably stacked over time so I wanted to take an initial reading, clear the codes, then drive my car again, and re-read the codes.

As per the Diagnostic pdf document, the following sockets have no connection: 2, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13, 15.


Socket 3 --> 1 blink [Okay]

Socket 6 --> When I short the circuit for more than several seconds, I get a steady light almost equal to the amount of time I've shorted it out (i.e. I short for 8 seconds, the light will stay lit for approximately 8 seconds).

Socket 7 --> Steady light

Socket 8 --> 17 blinks
17 - Crankshaft position sensor faulty

Socket 10 --> 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 28, 29
13 - Limit switch soft top fabric bow raised
14 - Limit switch soft top down (in storage compartment)
15 - Limit switch soft top up (secondary closing speed)
16 - Limit switch roll bar retracted
17 - Limit switch left side window down Circuit in power soft top control module, solenoid valve, roll bar retracted
18 - Limit switch right side down Circuit hydraulic unit, circuit solenoid valve, roll bar retracted
20 - Hardtop installation recognition Circuit solenoid valve, roll bar extended
28 - No speedometer signal
29 - No axle vehicle wheel speed sensor signal

Socket 12 --> Steady light

Socket 14 --> 1 blink [Okay]



Socket 3 initially gave me 17 blinks, but I cleared the code and it doesn't report any problems (yet). Socket 10 gives me a myriad of codes but I don't know what they exactly point to. Again, I tried clearing the codes, but I think I'm doing something wrong.

Socket 6's response is kind of odd as well. I'm not sure if I'm clearing the codes right, but after reading the initial code in the sequence, I short the circuit for 8 seconds to clear the code. Then I bring up the next code and repeat. Doesn't seem to clear the codes. Instead, I tried clearing the codes by shorting out for about 10 seconds and when I check for any codes, I don't get a single blink. So after doing this for socket 10 and taking a little drive, all the codes return.



I also understand that anything to do with the ETA (Electronic Throttle Actuator) is not reported. Any ideas on how to test for this? After replacing my faulty Idle Control Valve the other week, I ran into a weird problem when I hit a bump on the road; SRS/ABS lights flickered on, car went into limp mode. Turned engine off then on. Hasn't happened yet since then.


Any thoughts guys?
 

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#20 · (Edited)
Just a couple of things that may be of interest that apply to the earlier 16 socket connector.

1, I did the the new crankshaft sensor after getting 17 blinks it didn't fix my problem and the code returned. I was told by noelbelli that 17 blinks showed when the engine was stationary because it wasn't working in this situation, and if I checked with engine running the code would not be there. This proved to be the case. So I wouldn't be concerned about 17 blinks on pin 8 with the ign in pos 2.

2, The RST codes on your model can be checked by using the console switch that puts the soft top up and down. No l.e.d is needed for this, the procedure is to put a paper clip between socket 10 and 1 hold for 3 sec and remove the light in the console switch will flash the codes, when you have repeated this procedure enough times to obtain all the codes and come back to your first code you can start deleting the codes. This is achieved by holding the paper clip between socket 1 and 10 for 8+seconds then repeating the procedure until all the codes are erased. It may be necessary to repeat the procedure if some codes dont erase the first time. Eventually coming down to 1 blink everything A ok
Don't be fazed by the amount of codes you have showing on pin 10 I had the same and there is nothing wrong with my RST, I am of the opinion that not all codes stored are fault codes.

3, The same applies with the Roll bar, with the ign switch in position 2 and all the dash board features lit. the light with the rollbar (this is the light in the dash and not the switch on the console) on will flash it's codes
if you follow the same procedures as above between pins 1 and 7 to read and delete until you get back to one blink.

It will help if you get the wife sat in the drivers seat to count the flashes.

2 very important things to remember 1/ give her pen and paper or she will forget how many flashes and 2/ do not use a plastic paper clip :rolleyes:
 
#10 ·
I had a code reader for xmas it came with the codes and instructions for a 38 pin connector. Mine is a sixteen pin but I managed to download the codes for the 16 pin off this site. :thumbsup: I have had a slight misfire on idle when hot which is still there after much solution searching. When I checked codes the two fuel injection pins came back no faults. But when I checked the DI on pin 8 it came back (Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty) I cleared the code, took it for a spin and the fault code returned. I have ordered the sensor and am hoping it might cure the misfire.
What I need help with now is the removal procedure if anyone can help it looks pretty tight down there. Is it tackled from above the car or from underneath? any help would be really appreciated.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I had a code reader for xmas it came with the codes and instructions for a 38 pin connector. Mine is a sixteen pin but I managed to download the codes for the 16 pin off this site. :thumbsup: I have had a slight misfire on idle when hot which is still there after much solution searching. When I checked codes the two fuel injection pins came back no faults. But when I checked the DI on pin 8 it came back (Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty) I cleared the code, took it for a spin and the fault code returned. I have ordered the sensor and am hoping it might cure the misfire.
What I need help with now is the removal procedure if anyone can help it looks pretty tight down there. Is it tackled from above the car or from underneath? any help would be really appreciated.
Don't Worry about that !!!!Just make your engine run ....and test ...no longer error after reset!!!
Obviously as your crankshaft does'nt move its position sensor "feels"faulty ....:):)
And this part is really difficult to reach .....
 
#12 ·
Poundy.... My 1995 SL 500 has the 38 pin connector. Would you please inform me of where you obtained your diagnostic tester? I am confused regarding the homemade tester for 16 pin versus tester for 38 pin connector for my vehicle. I would prefer to purchase a "store-bought" unit with instructions. chetter sends
 
#13 ·
For the 38-pin connector, you can get a multiplexer scanner so that you don't need to prob a pin at a time. Depending on how much you want to spend, you can get the full blown SDS (Star Diagnostic System) from MB that is used by Dealers for $$$$$, or the CarSoft-7.4 from Belgium for less $$$ (but do less). Then there are Chinese Clones.
 
#23 ·
Home made Code Reader & Resulting codes - - - Tips?

I'd appreciate any helpful advice on the following.

I made a home made code reader (see image). Took about 1 hr. Cost about $16.00 USD.

I did this mainly to find trouble with my IRCL (Infra-Red Central Locking System) and interestingly enough - that was the one plug that DID NOT respond! So I'm wondering if it is so fried that it is not even producing a code?

The IRCL is socket 12. But when I held the momentary switch down it stayed lit. When I released it went off. No pulses. No flash ... nothing. I tried this with 2 seconds hold down. Then 3. Then 4 seconds of holding down. Nothing.

Here's the remainder of the codes:
2 - N/A
3 = CIS (Continuous Injection System) = Code 16 [exhaust recirculation valve]
4 - N/A
5 - N/A on my model
6 - SRS Codes 3,4,8,9 (does that mean my pass. and driver airbags are not functioning???:eek:)
7 - Roll Bar *This one illuminated at 1/2 power the moment i inserted plug. ?Thought it was malfunctioning. But then it produced codes anyway at full power even though the LED was illuminated at 1/2 power the whole time*
Roll Bar Codes = 2,3, 4, 6, 8 [could this be because my roll bar was in raised position during the test?]
8 - DI Code = 17 (just like everyone else due to engine being stationary. Not worried about this one and will re-check w/engine running later)
9 - N/A
10 - Did not yet check
11 - ATA (Anti-Theft Alarm) Codes = 6, 14 (not sure what this means because my alarm works fine if the doors are opened after being manually locked - only my IRLC is toasted)
12 - The infamously stubborn IRCL Couldn't coax any codes out this one.
It just stayed lit when I depressed the switch. Shut off when I let go. Nothing. I even held it down 8-10 seconds ( to try to clear ) and re-depressed w/same results
13 N/A
14 Engine System MAS Codes = 11, 13 (air injection, speed signal at CFI open or illogical)
15 - Not used (thank goodness - my head is spinning)

So now I have a massive migraine headache.
Can anyone provide suggestions on what is actually important above? Versus not?
 

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#25 ·
#26 ·
help trouble shooting please. i have a 95 sl500. i recently replaced the hydraulic top locks and pistons. on a long road trip to yellowstone National park, my left window quit working and is currently in the up position. it wont work with the switch. the soft top will only open the rear locks then stops as the window doesn't come down. the window also doesn't go down and up that little bit when opening and closing the door. in truoble shooting on the raod with a few mechanics, several told me it is probably the window motor and i should remove the door panel and rap with a hammer to see if i can free. after reading this and several other threads, i am not so sure it is not in the soft top controler. anyone have ideas on what i should try to confirm problem before i start chasing this problem?
 
#27 · (Edited)
It sounds to me like the source problem is the window. First thing to do is make sure it isn't a bad or dirty switch on the console. Left and right are the same so you can swap them out to test. You have to remove the wood console. If the switch is not the problem then you have to get into to the door to test the motor. Then start a new thread with a proper title - you're way out of place here.

PS - probably in the door, the switch wouldn't impact top operation.
 
#28 ·
new thread, motor, controller, switch

The highest likelihood of the fault is between window motor and controller. No need to check the switch at this point, as the controller moves the window for top operation.

Take off the door panel and put 12 Volts on the motor. If it doesn't move, you found the problem. I have plenty of spares for sale. If it does move, please run it down all the way and tell us in a new thread what the top is doing at that point - we will take it from there.

deanyel is right, btw, this post is a bit misplaced here. In particular, since a home made code reader won't help you with reading error codes on your controller.

Hope this helps,

-Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
 
#30 ·
Model years 90-94

In particular, since a home made code reader won't help you with reading error codes on your controller.
I just realized why kklein posted in this thread: the model year reference in the title is wrong. Home made code readers work only for model years 90-94. Since kklein was told it could be the controller on his MY '95, he may have thought that using a code reader would be the least amount of work. Well, it takes Star Diagnosis (SDS) for model years 95 and up... Sorry if I was a bit rough on you, kklein.

-Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
 
#29 ·
It may sound obvious, but have you checked the fuses in the boot/trunk?

The driver window on my 1993 SL500 stopped working a while ago, and would not go down.
It wasn't a blown fuse, but the aluminium fuse contacts were corroded. When cleaned, the window, and soft top, worked perfectly.

The boot/trunk fuses are prone to corrosion especially if like me, if you have had water ingression. This usually comes in from a bad seal on the third brake light.
The answer is to fit non corrosive fuses.
 
#33 ·
Absolutely can not put a price on the value of this tool that I found here. EASY to build and up and running. pic shown testing 'winter project'
LOL, great post and pix :D

My code reader, unlike your professional kit, is shoved into a small polythene food container, with an old, and very large, 'press to make' switch.
The saving grace is the the break-out box and 38 pin plug :bowdown:

The next time I'm in the UK, I'll take a snap of my kit :rolleyes:
 
#35 ·