Upgraded DIY CODE READER

Awesome!
Where can I order one ?.


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very cool decoder. i would do this if i didn't just go to the dealer all the time. haha

 

I would like one to, if they are for sale.
Please,please,pretty please

Hans

 

Hello rajunl and crwbird:

The Code Reader is self-designed and self-built. You could do this too.:thumbsup:

God Bless, Arctic

 

I think a while back Redliner posted about a 38-pin breakout box that he bought in Europe. Basically similar to Artic's but provide access to all 38-pins for probing

 

Yes, I bought the 38 pin break-out box very cheaply from Ebay, I just link it to a switched LED display.

Some where on this forum is a schematic from Bob Terry for a digital numeric code reader as opposed to just counting flashes from an LED display.

 

Hi Rick:

The breakout box is also known as a "Mushroom Box" and Baum Tools makes this. It just provides 38 banana plug receptacles that you can then probe separately with the little, red LED light box that is so common.

The Baum Breakout Box (pic attached) sells for $149.95 at Tool Source.com. It won't read anything, you still have to build your own code reader.

On the 38-pin M-B connector, there were only 14 pins that were used for the SL500.

Hence, I just incorporated the same 14 pins into an Integrated Unit that also has the automatic digital counter feature.

It is so very easy, and cool to use.

God Bless, Arctic

 

If you don't intend to sell, can you post a wiring diagram and list of parts needed?

 

JEEEEZE Artic ! That was like a trip to the titty bar with no ones ! So either puke up all the necessary construction info, or start selling them !

 

^^^ this ^^^

 

So aam has been to Bangkok

 

And back again

 

Some can play ping pong with not hands too

 

Arctic,
Is from Canada BBRRRRRRRRR.
That's why he didn't know....

Does temperature has an effect on them too???

Looks like we have a few educated members here.
I am afraid to ask...... Lol.

Arctic.
I am joking. Lol.

Regards,
aam.

 

COMPLETE SET OF INSTRUCTIONS FOR AUTOMATED DIY FAULT CODE READER

Good Evening, Forum Members:

Okay, I have assembled for you a complete Set Of Instructions on How to Build and Use the DIY Automated Digital Fault CODE READER for the R129 Series Roadster.:thumbsup:

Hopefully, our Forum Member "tdoriot" will now be able to relax a bit, and our Moderator "Lynns" will no longer have to hold his breath. LOL

Please refer to the following attachments in PDF or JPEG formats:

1) Wiring Schematic Diagram

2) Digital Counter Specifications

3) Parts List, Prices, and Where To Buy

4) How To Assemble the Code Reader

5) How To Use the Code Reader

6) Pic of: Parts for Assembly

7) Pic of: Drilled Holes in Project Box

8) Pic of: Wiring Underway

9) Pic of: Pieces Assembled

10) Pic of: Code Reader Checking a Module


You can build this DIY Automated Code Reader in an afternoon.

The hardest part is soldering the fine wires to the 38-PIN M-B male plug (for those whose SL's use the 16-PIN plug, you don't have this task to complete).

It works great!

This DIY Automatic Fault Code Reader worked on every Module in my 1995 SL500 except for the SRS.

I chose a Project Box that was a hand-held size, approximately 3" X 5". It was a little tricky making room for all the pieces, so you may wish to use one that is a little larger.

With the 5 ft. long cable, I can sit in the comfort of my Roadster's passenger seat, and READ all the Fault Codes, and then CLEAR them.

I keep the Code Reader in the Roadster, so that if an MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) comes on in the instrument cluster, I can pull over and diagnose exactly what's wrong, and then CLEAR the Code.

Life is good!

Hope you enjoy building it, and May God Bless, Arctic

 

Thanks for taking the time providing the details. Very clear and professionally presented.

 

One more thing I forgot to mention:

The bottom 3 Banana Plug Jack Panel Mount Connectors (Red - Black - Red) are for connecting up to a Dwell Meter of Digital Multi-Mode Meter in order to check the Lambda (also known as the ON-OFF RATIO TEST) both for:

1) STEP A - Ignition ON (Position 1) and Engine OFF

2) STEP B - Engine ON at IDLE


God Bless, Arctic

 

Magnificent ! I'm all over that ! Great job. Thanks for taking the time to do that for the rest of us unimaginative bastards ! Perhaps if I build one, I will never need it ! Thanks again ! :thumbsup:

Stupid question, as far as procuring the parts. You listed the eBay seller. Do we just search eBay for that seller ?

I need to get after this project. For two reasons, 1. I hope it will act like a ritual idol, ward off evil in the first place. If I have it, I wont need it ! 2. If I need it, I have it ! Thanks again. Elegant in it's simplicity ! :thumbsup:

 

Stupid question, as far as procuring the parts. You listed the eBay seller. Do we just search eBay for that seller ?

On eBay, at the top, right corner click on "Advanced" (it's right next to the Blue SEARCH rectangle).

Clicking on "Advanced" takes you to a new eBay page, and the top line is: "Enter seller's user ID". Just enter, or paste, the eBay Seller's name I provided, and then click on the blue "SEARCH" button below. You will then be taken to a new eBay page with all the items that Seller offers.

BTW, the price on the digital counter has now been reduced to $10.82, and with free shipping.

Enjoy the project, and May God Bless, Arctic

 

Hello ArcticDweller,

PM sent

 

OK this may seem simple, do they work for 1996 & up. what e bay item would you recommend for someone with a 1997 sl that wants to read & clear codes. thank you. brand name please.

 

On a 97 you can use an ordinary OBDII scanner. Generic OBDII scanner can read and clear basic emission codes and generic DTC. But, not specific MB system codes, i.e., RST, or transmission codes.

 

Excellent project! Two thumbs up! I have a 95' so I guess I need to dig out the soldiering iron and get to work. How about designing us a radar jammer so I can avoid speeding tickets?

 

Thanks for taking your valuable time to design the tool and produce those splendid documents :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

I already have the 38 pin breakout box that I use with flashing LED set, however I shall now construct the digital counter section, and mate the two together.
If I can't find a suitable digital display from the many old video recorders etc. that I have hoarded, I'll try to find your one on a European eBay site.

It will be a pleasure not to go dizzy counting those wretched flashes

James.

 

I've acquired 80% of the parts to build this thing.... still waiting on the slow boat from china. Anyone else building this at the moment?

 

I bought the digital 0.56" display from skt_flyer for $10.40 including shipping to Spain, but like you, I still haven't got round to finishing off the project

I already have a 38pin breakout box, so there's not a lot to do really, it's the 'same old', other projects keep jumping the queue

 

I have an OBDII reader already, so all I would need is the 36 pin converter to read the modules? On a 97

 

Generic OBD-II Reader can only deal with engine (smog emission) stuffs, it will NOT communicate with the other special MB modules. While same engine emission info are available at the 38-pin connector, your car already has a OBD-II plug for that purpose, so no need to spend money for the converter/adapter. Just plug your OBD-II scanner to that OBD-II plug.

 

16 pin cable

Have a 99SL which has the OBDll system. I also have a reader which I can use to get all the engine codes. My question is under the hood is the 38 pin female receptacle which has 16 pins which are used. Is there a 38 pin male plug with a wire already connected to the 16 pins which are used? This would save some work and avoid the adapter.

 

Have a 99SL which has the OBDll system. I also have a reader which I can use to get all the engine codes. My question is under the hood is the 38 pin female receptacle which has 16 pins which are used. Is there a 38 pin male plug with a wire already connected to the 16 pins which are used? This would save some work and avoid the adapter.

See answer at post #37 above.

 

Okay... got all my bits and pieces. And it's time to start building this. I have all the documents printed and in hand. I have the 38 pin in my 1995, my car presently uses the following pins when viewed in my 38 pin port.

Pin
1 13
2 19
3 21
4 22
6 23
7 30
8 31
10
11

SO, on page one of the wiring diagram it shows pin 14 being used in one of the three banana jacks. (the one next to the red switch) my pin 14 isnt used... Am I missing something? Or is the location of your pin 14 placed at the top due to lack of space on the bottom of the setup and it's just another "various pin"?

In addition, the counters are coming with THREE not two jumpers. Looking at the counter schematic, I assume it would be correct to remove all three jumpers?

thanks.

 

Hi Jason:

Okay, I also have a 1995 SL500.

The Pins that should be used for your 1995 Model Year are:

1........Ground
2........N/A (Ignition Switch, not used)
3........Battery +'ve
4........LH-SFI
6........ABS & ASR
7........EA/ISC/CC
8........BM
11......N/A (ADS option not on my SL)
13......TNA-signal
14......Lambda ON/OFF Ratio
17......DI
19......DM
21......RST & RB
22......N/A (Roll bar pre-1995)
23......ATA
30......AB
31......RCL


In TOTAL, you will need to wire 14 leads, assuming you do not have ADS.

REGARDING PIN #14

I placed PIN #14 at the bottom, along with PINs #1 & #3.

In doing the Lambda Test, PIN #1 (Black) PIN #3 (Red) and PIN #14 (Black) are connected to a Digital Mulit-meter designed to do this Test.

All 3 PINs are in-a-row, and are used solely for the Lambda Test.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck with your project, and May God Bless, Arctic

 

Is it me or is this a better way to go? My 38 pin came with a male 16pin on the other end. Could I just connect the male/female together and snip off the male end on the long wire and wire it into my project box? I'm just trying not to go blind soldiering tiny wires.

I couldn't find the green switch from the inventory sheet. Part number might have changed..
Here is the same switch. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400348618722

Search for this on ebay... 1x AC 250V 3A 2 Pin Green Cap N/O SPST Momentary Push Button Switch R16-503B

 

Is it me or is this a better way to go? My 38 pin came with a male 16pin on the other end. Could I just connect the male/female together and snip off the male end on the long wire and wire it into my project box? I'm just trying not to go blind soldiering tiny wires.

Hi, again, Jason:

If you take the cover off the 38 Pin connector, I think you will find that there are only 3 wires connected within that cable.

On the 16-PIN OBDII (long) cable, I cut off the FEMALE end, about 8 inches from the end of the plug, and used that piece to wire into the Code Reader Box.

Then, I used the cut-off end from the remaining OBDII cable, and soldered 14 of the 16 wires onto the 38-Pin connector, making sure I had the proper PINS as outlined in my post, above.

One Tip: I enlarged the cable hole in the 38 pin connector, and inserted a rubber grommet to better protect the OBDII cable. I think this shows up in one of the pics I posted on How to Build it.

The end result is that you plug the female and male ends of the OBDII cable together.

When not using my Code Reader, I can unplug the long OBDII cable from it.

Hope this helps, too.

God Bless, Arctic.

 

Bumpity bump...