I am taking delivery of my CLS this week and wanted to know who has lowered theirs and how? I understand this a lowering module as an option but has anyone done something different than that?
Ways of lowering your CLS
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Markdm3
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can someone link me to the website on how to lower the car using the washers/spacer method. thanks
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hey htowncls. i did a search and found just a little info on lowering via washer method. if you could couls you email me what info you have on it. anything would help at this point. my email is paulfromtulsa@yahoo.com thanks
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paul i just sent you the few emails i had from someone on the washer method.. the basic principle is that the links in the front have to be longer to trick the computer sensor to lower the car.. In the back the link needs to be shorter to lower the car.. I didnt feel like using the washers and dremel tool to make these adjustments or pay $1200 on up for a module so i used the links i posted on your other thread.. the front links take 5-10 minutes to change out, the back is more time consuming because the car has to be jacked up so you can get underneath it.. If you dont have big hands it's not too hard to get to the link to change it out..
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Great pictures, I just have a question. Is the front suspension still strong enough? as it looks like the bracket is the same sort of shape as the 'cradle' or roof of the assemblie. Is there originally any washers there, if there is at least one then I would reckon everything is cool. But if the bracket has no other support except for the 2 or 3 washers does this weaken the system? I have not had a look under there so I may be out of order. Or have you had no issues.
Chris
Chris
We use a lowering module, of course a Carlsson. We can also flash the ecu and lower the CLS we only charge 300 to flash the ECU in house to lower it. It is a lot better than washers and it is perfect level.
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Washer method..
I have a few questions. First was the bolt long enough to safely connet to the nut after adding 3 washers? I would think you would need a longer bolt to make sure it doesn't come unscrewed..
Second, did you have to take the bracket off in the rear to drill the holes, or did you just do it under the car? Is the reason people are using a dremel, is because you can't fit a drill up in there?
I have a few questions. First was the bolt long enough to safely connet to the nut after adding 3 washers? I would think you would need a longer bolt to make sure it doesn't come unscrewed..
Second, did you have to take the bracket off in the rear to drill the holes, or did you just do it under the car? Is the reason people are using a dremel, is because you can't fit a drill up in there?
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I have a question for guys that have lowered their CLS with new brackets.
I'm having a problem with leveling the rear-end of my car. The left and the right side are like 1 inch diffrent, and since there is only 1 braket how can it be so off??? The driver's side has about 0.5 inch of wheel gap, and the passanger side has about 1.5 inches. Do I need to rest the computer or something to level it out? Anyone out there having the same problem??
I'm having a problem with leveling the rear-end of my car. The left and the right side are like 1 inch diffrent, and since there is only 1 braket how can it be so off??? The driver's side has about 0.5 inch of wheel gap, and the passanger side has about 1.5 inches. Do I need to rest the computer or something to level it out? Anyone out there having the same problem??
BRABUS CLS 6.1S Lowered with SDS...
Client opted for the SDS lowering, did not want to do any wiring mods..
Happy Benzing!!!
Client opted for the SDS lowering, did not want to do any wiring mods..
Happy Benzing!!!
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Are you 100% sure your front left and rights are exactly the same?
if you front left is a little lower than your front right, it will kick the rear right up a little bit.
If that fails, put it back to standard and see if its back to normal..
You could have a problem with one of the struts.
Amit
do you have any other picture for the mod? coz i don't really know where is the part and how to mod the part..
lowering a CLS
If you "mechanically" lower your CLS you may have a stability problem at higher speeds - the automatic/computerized system "automatically" lowers the CLS (all models) at higher speeds. I would not do it with washers and spacers. My CLS 63 AMG needs no lowering - the system is pre-set (neither does the 55). However, I bought my daughter a CLS 500. She wanted it as low as "Dad's car" - I took it to my mechanic. He put it on his computer and lowered it by re-programming the system. This allows the computer to function properly at higher speeds when the car lowers automatically. The dealer should be able to to this - but good luck talking them into it (warranty issues). Just find a GOOD tech at a private MB shop who knows his stuff. OR, buy the Renntech digital lowering module.
If you "mechanically" lower your CLS you may have a stability problem at higher speeds - the automatic/computerized system "automatically" lowers the CLS (all models) at higher speeds. I would not do it with washers and spacers. My CLS 63 AMG needs no lowering - the system is pre-set (neither does the 55). However, I bought my daughter a CLS 500. She wanted it as low as "Dad's car" - I took it to my mechanic. He put it on his computer and lowered it by re-programming the system. This allows the computer to function properly at higher speeds when the car lowers automatically. The dealer should be able to to this - but good luck talking them into it (warranty issues). Just find a GOOD tech at a private MB shop who knows his stuff. OR, buy the Renntech digital lowering module.
Benz CLS550 2009, Too low, rear airmatic problems, back end on the ground after modification.
A few points I would like to add to the excellent tip our friend ekovalsky offered us.
First: I suggest you get two carbide cutting bits, one lasts about for 1 whole then it's finished. Also, you will need a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm socket for all the mods.
Secondly: The rear sensor, as gbmotorsport described, is located near the rear differential on the drivers side. Almost next to the exhaust pipe.. you don't even have to remove the back wheel, just jack up the car in a position you can safely work on it and slide under the middle of the car. By the way, their is only one back sensor to modify. This one sensor does the rear end.
Thrirdly: a dremel is convinient but a reg drill is manageable in the small space your working on for the rear sensor.
Rear suspension issues ....DON'T PANIC
Ok so you did the above mods and now your all excited to see the results. You drop the car and suddenly you realize the whole car looks like a low rider. You panic ! You take it for a ride but its still inches from the ground. Now your about to have a heart attack... you can imagine the bill the dealer is going to hand you or that your waranty is OVER !!!
RELAX: First: cycle the sport 1, sport 2 and comfort mode a few times and all should be OK.
Or maybe the front is real high and the back is almost on the ground. Now you panic !! Relax ! You need to go back under the rear of the car, if the car is too low for your jack, use the jack that came with the car. Secure the car safely and go back to the rear sensor. Look real closely, if you see a plactic rod from the sensor touching the axle boot next to the differential. It is simply that the sensor rod is in the wrong position. It should be verticle and not horizontal. Using your finger, delicately push the rod back upright. At one point it will just spring up in a verticle position and all will be OK. Best to do this when the sensor is bolted down. Cycle the sport modes 1,2 & comfort mode again. All should be fine !!
Front suspension issues: To add the washers/ spacers to the front suspension is real easy, you don't need to remove the wheel, just jack up the front wheel and you will have lots of room over the tire to do the modification. Its real easy but be carefull to re-install with the mechanism in the same position you disassembled in. Also, be carefull when you unbolt as the retaining rod connected to the bolt is plastic. It can be real easy to snap it off ! I suggest you hold the mechanism under the bolt with a pair of vise-grips but only snugly so you don't damage anything.
Lastly, may I suggets you take a digital picture of each sensor before the modification, it's great to have a picture if your in doubt when re-assembling a part.
Best part of these small modifications is you can fine tune the front or back in miutes if needed.
Good Luck !
A few points I would like to add to the excellent tip our friend ekovalsky offered us.
First: I suggest you get two carbide cutting bits, one lasts about for 1 whole then it's finished. Also, you will need a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm socket for all the mods.
Secondly: The rear sensor, as gbmotorsport described, is located near the rear differential on the drivers side. Almost next to the exhaust pipe.. you don't even have to remove the back wheel, just jack up the car in a position you can safely work on it and slide under the middle of the car. By the way, their is only one back sensor to modify. This one sensor does the rear end.
Thrirdly: a dremel is convinient but a reg drill is manageable in the small space your working on for the rear sensor.
Rear suspension issues ....DON'T PANIC
Ok so you did the above mods and now your all excited to see the results. You drop the car and suddenly you realize the whole car looks like a low rider. You panic ! You take it for a ride but its still inches from the ground. Now your about to have a heart attack... you can imagine the bill the dealer is going to hand you or that your waranty is OVER !!!
RELAX: First: cycle the sport 1, sport 2 and comfort mode a few times and all should be OK.
Or maybe the front is real high and the back is almost on the ground. Now you panic !! Relax ! You need to go back under the rear of the car, if the car is too low for your jack, use the jack that came with the car. Secure the car safely and go back to the rear sensor. Look real closely, if you see a plactic rod from the sensor touching the axle boot next to the differential. It is simply that the sensor rod is in the wrong position. It should be verticle and not horizontal. Using your finger, delicately push the rod back upright. At one point it will just spring up in a verticle position and all will be OK. Best to do this when the sensor is bolted down. Cycle the sport modes 1,2 & comfort mode again. All should be fine !!
Front suspension issues: To add the washers/ spacers to the front suspension is real easy, you don't need to remove the wheel, just jack up the front wheel and you will have lots of room over the tire to do the modification. Its real easy but be carefull to re-install with the mechanism in the same position you disassembled in. Also, be carefull when you unbolt as the retaining rod connected to the bolt is plastic. It can be real easy to snap it off ! I suggest you hold the mechanism under the bolt with a pair of vise-grips but only snugly so you don't damage anything.
Lastly, may I suggets you take a digital picture of each sensor before the modification, it's great to have a picture if your in doubt when re-assembling a part.
Best part of these small modifications is you can fine tune the front or back in miutes if needed.
Good Luck !
i just did my front with 2 washers, it took about 15 minutes. i haven't done the rear, because the gap appears even with the tires i have. UPDATE: i did the rear by slotting the hole so it can be adjusted. it took about 45 min because i had to jack it back up and slightly adjust to bolts. it does not take much, maybe a 1/8 inch 100PENTX-IMGP4188_IMGP4188.jpg100PENTX-IMGP4189_IMGP4189.jpgI dont know who the question is directed to but I took before and after measurements. I checked the allignment specs and I am still within the original +/- and all id well. The gap is even on all fenders and drops a tad when you park it on the front. It really depends on what washers you use upfront and as far as the holes at the back, drill it to the side towards the rear diff I did about the same thickness as the washers I used. You can also eye ball it and get the same results.
Start with the front first to get familiar with the task. You just need to jack up one side at a time on the front and the drivers rear tire and go under and look at the rear axle pivot, the servo is there. A small 10 mm socket is best to use.
Drop on mine was an inch all the way around. I will redo it when the new wheel set arrives to suit my taste. This mod is fairly simple and can be returned back to OEM in 30 minutes. Thanks to ekovalsy, I dont have to buy the boys at the dealer pizza.lol.
gino
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Call AutoWorks in Naples FL. Ask for Tony ( owner).
3027 Davis Boulevard
Naples, FL 34104
(239) 775-9101
If it's electric, he can ususally do it or fix it.
2007 CLS320, 1998 E300TD estate, 2001 Ducati 996SPS, 1981 Moto Guzzi Spada
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183 Posts
Hi
I've got a 320CDI without the electronic ride height adjuster. Am I able to apply the 'washers & holes' mod to lower? I guess that the dealer adjustment will not apply either?
Cheers
I've got a 320CDI without the electronic ride height adjuster. Am I able to apply the 'washers & holes' mod to lower? I guess that the dealer adjustment will not apply either?
Cheers
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