you can get it lowered by the dealers... They lowered my e500 free =)

Just complain the ride height is too and seem unstable.

 

No lucking getting any of the local dealers to do it, but you can do it yourself pretty easily and for basically free.

Up front, washers / spacers are added to the brackets for the Airmatic control rods on each side -- the effect is to lengthen these brackets which lowers the front suspension.

In the rear, there is a single control rod anchored to an aluminum bracket, which in turn is secured by two screws through a piece of steel. Shifting this bracket towards the ground / trunk will lower the rear suspension. The bracket is relocated by notching the existing holes in the steel and securing in the new position.

It is very important to make sure the brackets are securely fastened after the modifications. If this is done than the changes should be very safe, and also easy to reverse if necessary.

Parts and tools I used:

6mm metric washers (steel)
6mm tension nuts
dremel with tungsten carbide cutting bit
socket driver and ratchet


Drops of 0.8" - 1" are obtainable with this technique, to go lower you'll need either an expensive electronics module (like Kleeman or Carlsson) or replacement brackets / links.

 

Pictures of modifications done on my vehicle

 

do you have any other picture for the mod? coz i don't really know where is the part and how to mod the part..

 

And a few pics of the lowered CLS55 with Vellano VSM with PZero Nero 255/30-20 & 305/25-20, Lorinser roof spoiler, and Huper Optik 30 tint. Color is graphite Designo.

 

The drop looks great. How many spacers/washers did you use?? Also, how big was the notch that you made??

Is looks very straight forward, but any other tips/hints?

Thanks!
Shane

 

you can get it lowered by the dealers... They lowered my e500 free =)

Just complain the ride height is too and seem unstable.

you mean just with the stardiag?? can any dealer do it?

 

Remind me... Why did I buy a SLK? The CLS is too beautiful( if something like that is possible)

 

And a few pics of the lowered CLS55 with Vellano VSM with PZero Nero 255/30-20 & 305/25-20, Lorinser roof spoiler, and Huper Optik 30 tint. Color is graphite Designo.

where can I get those rims ? Nice set up.



gino

 

ekovalsy.....I found the website, thank you...


Oh and the mods work well. Great tip!!!!!! I had nothing to do so I went for it and it was simple.

That mod took only 60 minutes to do and the results are the same. I just redrilled a hole next to the original in the back unit (located on the driver side rear at the inner axle pivot) and installed 6mm flat washer to hide the other hole and it looks OEM. I will drive back to the shop later today and check the allignment. I do not need the dealer to drop anymore. lol..

I used 2 washers upfront not 3 and it even out the rear. I remeasured from the side step and it dropped even front and rear.

thank you again

gino

 

Maybe this is a stupid question, but I am assuming that before you did the mods, you jacked up the car off the ground, right??

Also, how far did you drill the holes apart??

Also, how much did it drop it by??

 

Maybe this is a stupid question, but I am assuming that before you did the mods, you jacked up the car off the ground, right??

Also, how far did you drill the holes apart??

Also, how much did it drop it by??

I dont know who the question is directed to but I took before and after measurements. I checked the allignment specs and I am still within the original +/- and all id well. The gap is even on all fenders and drops a tad when you park it on the front. It really depends on what washers you use upfront and as far as the holes at the back, drill it to the side towards the rear diff I did about the same thickness as the washers I used. You can also eye ball it and get the same results.

Start with the front first to get familiar with the task. You just need to jack up one side at a time on the front and the drivers rear tire and go under and look at the rear axle pivot, the servo is there. A small 10 mm socket is best to use.

Drop on mine was an inch all the way around. I will redo it when the new wheel set arrives to suit my taste. This mod is fairly simple and can be returned back to OEM in 30 minutes. Thanks to ekovalsy, I dont have to buy the boys at the dealer pizza.lol.



gino

 

i just did my front with 2 washers, it took about 15 minutes. i haven't done the rear, because the gap appears even with the tires i have. UPDATE: i did the rear by slotting the hole so it can be adjusted. it took about 45 min because i had to jack it back up and slightly adjust to bolts. it does not take much, maybe a 1/8 inch 100PENTX-IMGP4188_IMGP4188.jpg100PENTX-IMGP4189_IMGP4189.jpg

 

Glad it worked Gino!

What height do you now have between ground and top of the fender well ? I'm abpit 25-7/8" front and 26" rear. Not super low, but low enough for me. Car is getting lots of compliments too.

 

Glad it worked Gino!

What height do you now have between ground and top of the fender well ? I'm abpit 25-7/8" front and 26" rear. Not super low, but low enough for me. Car is getting lots of compliments too.

ekovalsy

I went and measured from center of rim to bottom of fender and mine was 14.5" front and 14.5" rear.

I took the washers off and put it back to stock coz I am going to the dealer and see my friend and do warranty work. Nice drop now but I am going to the dealer tomorrow (Monday) and will get the them to drop it down software wise 1.5". Then when the rims get here by end of the month I see if it needs to go lower with your set up.

Thank you for the free advice, I am going to do my W211 E55 the same way when I get it back from the dealer on Monday.

It sucks that we can only go 135 mph on the CLS. I hope we find a way to eliminate that in a cheaper way.

thank you again

gino

 

RennTech Lowering Module... ADJUSTABLE!!

I had the RennTech module installed and it works GREAT!!! It's adjustble so you can lower the front a tad less than the back and gives the car a nice rake. Left front and right front are independantly adjustable as well as the rear. There are four dials in the module (FL, FR, Rear, bypass). There are 7 modes which adjust by 1/8" each.

 

car looks good!!

 

I had the RennTech module installed and it works GREAT!!! It's adjustble so you can lower the front a tad less than the back and gives the car a nice rake. Left front and right front are independantly adjustable as well as the rear. There are four dials in the module (FL, FR, Rear, bypass). There are 7 modes which adjust by 1/8" each.

What wheels are those? they look like my brabus, but I can't tell, any better pics?

 

Can you provide a link or tell me where to go to get the lowering module...also how much does something like that run?

 

That CLS has one of the best stances I have seen ... beautiful car. Nice job.

 

Drop my E500 AMG Sport...?

I am green to this site, and in desperate need of info to lower my 2004 E500 slightly...would you care to share info?

Thanks

 

ekovalsy

I went and measured from center of rim to bottom of fender and mine was 14.5" front and 14.5" rear.

I took the washers off and put it back to stock coz I am going to the dealer and see my friend and do warranty work. Nice drop now but I am going to the dealer tomorrow (Monday) and will get the them to drop it down software wise 1.5". Then when the rims get here by end of the month I see if it needs to go lower with your set up.

Thank you for the free advice, I am going to do my W211 E55 the same way when I get it back from the dealer on Monday.

It sucks that we can only go 135 mph on the CLS. I hope we find a way to eliminate that in a cheaper way.

thank you again

gino

I'm at 14.5" F & B on my sport II setting, and 27" F & B from ground to fender no washers. What gives? Does II drop even lower with 2 washers?

 

can someone link me to the website on how to lower the car using the washers/spacer method. thanks

 

i think there may be a write up on mbworld.org if not on here just do a search.. if not i may have some info to email you that someone sent me prior to me using the adjustable links.

 

hey htowncls. i did a search and found just a little info on lowering via washer method. if you could couls you email me what info you have on it. anything would help at this point. my email is paulfromtulsa@yahoo.com thanks

 

paul i just sent you the few emails i had from someone on the washer method.. the basic principle is that the links in the front have to be longer to trick the computer sensor to lower the car.. In the back the link needs to be shorter to lower the car.. I didnt feel like using the washers and dremel tool to make these adjustments or pay $1200 on up for a module so i used the links i posted on your other thread.. the front links take 5-10 minutes to change out, the back is more time consuming because the car has to be jacked up so you can get underneath it.. If you dont have big hands it's not too hard to get to the link to change it out..

 

Great pictures, I just have a question. Is the front suspension still strong enough? as it looks like the bracket is the same sort of shape as the 'cradle' or roof of the assemblie. Is there originally any washers there, if there is at least one then I would reckon everything is cool. But if the bracket has no other support except for the 2 or 3 washers does this weaken the system? I have not had a look under there so I may be out of order. Or have you had no issues.
Chris