Try manually raising and then lowering the roll bar with the dash switch. There is a roll bar retracted sensing switch that must be closed or soft top operation will stop immediately after the windows roll down. At this point, the soft top controller is waiting for the roll bar to become fully retracted. If the switch is defective or improperly adjusted, the system will wait until it times out which will then set an error code (I believe the raise/lower switch will also flash). Manually raising and lowering the roll bar may trigger a marginally defective or poorly adjusted RB switch allowing top operation.

 

from my experience, try these:

1. Is the hydraulic oil bottle for operating soft top empty ? If yes, refill the hydraulic fluid and, start up the car, wait couple of mins and give et a try.

2. The roll bar sensors are located near rear wheels from both sides, you can actually see them once you look down from the rear. However, if during your drive the roll bar is not suddenly popping up with scary noise, I dont think its the reason, however, check them.

Just for your info, the roll bars are also consuming that hydraulic fluid to operate.

 

"The soft top is stuck up".

Meaning, in the middle of the cycle of either opening or closing the top, it stalled? So the top is pointing to the sky and you can't drive the car?

Low chance that this helps, but disconnect the battery, wait a bit, hook battery back up, wait a bit, and try again.

Also, never trust that a fuse "appears" to be ok. Always remove fuses from the holder, clean the contacts, and then put back in.

 

"The soft top is stuck up".


Also, never trust that a fuse "appears" to be ok. Always remove fuses from the holder, clean the contacts, and then put back in.

Agree!

Happened to me a lot with the headlight's fuses

 

Thanks for all your responses.

Found the problem. It was a fuse. However not a fuse in the main fuse compartment, where there is a dedicated "Soft top/Roll bar fuse". However there is another fuse, a very large fuse over near the battery that appeared to be OK but contained a hairline crack. Its a large strap of lead like the fuse that powers the cooling fans on the radiator. So that was it.

However I did notice that my hydraulic fluid bottle is only half full. (Bottle is very in-accessible hidden behind a trunk panel with no inspection door.)
Can I use the same hydraulic fluid that is used in the self-leveling rear suspension on a 300 TD wagon ? (I've got some of that).

 

Can I use the same hydraulic fluid that is used in the self-leveling rear suspension on a 300 TD wagon ? (I've got some of that).

Yes, if what you have is MB or Febi.

IMHO, that hydraulic fluid should be changed on the same schedule as brake fluid. So suck all the fluid out of the reservoir, and replace with new. Clean the plastic screen filter as well.

 

Replace ALL the fuses with the updated copper core type. Very cheap fix that cures at lot of electrical gremlines.

 

I am also trying to address my occasionally working convertible top.
Where can you get the copper core fuses, I can only get aluminum ones from MB.

 

+1 what he said. Amazing but true.

 

I use some third party hydraulic fluid, costs me 12 $ per litre.

whats interesting, my cylinders were leaking near rear wheels arches, but now they stop to leak, some magical self cure or silence before tornado ? ))

 

Hydraulic fluid for the convertible top

Folks,

the fluid you want to use is "ZH-M" type hydraulic fluid. In the US, there are two fluids approved by Mercedes:
1) M-B p/n 0009899103
2) FeBi 02615 (we have a link to purchasing FeBi on our website - we don't sell the fluid, and we have no financial gain from anyone buying it following this link: Your Parts Search Returned 3 Part(s),)

This is a highly synthesized fluid, with the following attributes:
- Low viscosity over a wide temperature range (it's a "thin" fluid).
- No emulsifiers that would suspend water in the fluid; water is supposed to collect on the bottom of the reservoir.
- No additives that make the seals swell up.

The same fluid was used for self leveling systems in some older models; I don't know if the aforementioned 300TD wagon uses the same.

In Australia, I'm told there is a similar fluid made by Meyle.
If you are desperate, you can use Pentosin CHF-11S. I don't know if it will attack the original seals in your cylinders in the long run, but it is time for most E-Class owners to have their cylinders upgraded by now, anyway.

If anyone has added "Stop-Leak" type products to their fluid, this may help initially if the cracks in the seals are not too big yet. Over time, the additives will make all the remaining original seals fail all the faster.

It is very hard to flush these additives out completely. Fortunately, our seals hold up well to them.

Water in the fluid and contamination with small particles are the other enemies of OEM seals, and are the main reason why you should be replacing your fluid approximately every five years. Water (from condensation in the reservoir) will make the OEM seals swell up and disintegrate. One of the dangers in waiting too long is that fragments of disintegrated seals can get stuck in the valve blocks.

Hope this helps,

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/E320 Hydraulic Cylinder Removal Manual.pdf

 

While shopping in Autohausaz for E320, they list: Pentosin OEM Hydraulic System Fluid
For vehicles specifying CHF202 or G004000M2 hydraulic fluid for power steering, convertible top, or other hydraulic systems. Latest version CHF202 offered by Pentosin for Porsche specs.

The Pentosin is over 50% in cost to the Febi. Anyone know which is better or correct?

 

The Pentosin is over 50% in cost to the Febi. Anyone know which is better or correct?

Both fluids will work. I would choose the FeBi 02615; it is practically identical to Mercedes p/n 0009899103, outside of not having a green dye in it.

The Porsche hydraulic system for which Pentosin is specified, is much simpler than yours, and has fewer different metals, as well as slightly more forgiving seals incorporated. That doesn't mean that Pentosin CHF202 is superior or inferior. I am not aware that Mercedes has ever blessed a Pentosin fluid for convertible hydraulic top systems. However, that doesn't mean they will not work. We are simply lucky that there is a lower cost fluid available with FeBi 01615 that is practically identical to Mercedes' OEM fluid.

A hydraulic top system that is much more similar to the E-Class, is that of the Mercedes '98-'03 CLK-Class. It uses Mercedes 0009899103 or FeBi 02615, and that's what autohausaz lists for it...

I hope this helps,

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc

 

Hello there Klaus;

Looks like I will be removing these cylinders to send out for rebuild on my 1993 300CE cab, but I have pored over these forums and cannot find the answer to one question. (asked and not answered by several posters)

How do I get the top to open manually if the switch will not disengage the rear of the top? On mine, one of the seals went and the hydraulic fluid drained out of a perfectly fuctional system, with the roof half open. I pushed it up the rest of the way and pushed the rear of the roof down onto the deck where the latch engaged; it looks pretty tightly down and does not budge. When I pull the toggle switch back to open the roof, the windows go down and I can hear the latch click once each time I push the toggle switch back, but the latch below the rear window on the deck does not disengage. I cannot figure out how to manually disengage it. The owners manual only mentions raising the top manually, not how to lower it. Until I can lower it, I cannot access all of the parts I need to remove to get the seals replaced. Any help would be most appreciated!

 

As I remember you can only raise top manually and not lower top once its latched unles you like pull whole car appart. If there was a way to LOWER top manually most of us would not go thru all the hassle of replacing pumps and rebuilding cylinders.

 

Hmmm. I guess I still need to know how I go about tearing the whole car apart to get it down, since I apparently made a big boo boo closing that latch down. I don't really need to lower it, just open the boot to get to the cylinders

 

You are in luck, look here MBWorld.org Forums - View Single Post - help needed: W124 Cabrio top wont open
and in the DIY www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1715594-cabriolet-manual-top-rear-bow-unlatching.html

 

Vexed, I don't know how I missed that, I have seen your name 1000 times as I looked for this answer. I cannot thank you enough. I have my project for the evening, at least after I get the honey wine fermenting.

 

Thank goodness I think the first link you posted is all I think I need. I have always been intimidated when it comes to hotwiring electronics like in that second post. Although if I need to, that is some really helpful information I would never have figured out on my own. Crossing my fingers.

 

W124 rear bow release

Wow, this forum is awesome - such a quick response!

Floobydust has kindly allowed us to post his procedure on our website. We will add it soon.

For those who are not into dealing with electronics, I would like to point out that the rear bow lock can also be manually unlocked by drilling a couple of holes through the trunk and using a 6-mm hex wrench on a long extension to turn the rear bow lock manually. The pivot of the rear bow lock is located almost exactly under the center of the rear bow where the rear bow's prong enters the rear bow lock. One hole would need to be drilled for the wrench, and a second one would help to see what you are doing. While this method is less elegant than the one linked to by vexed, it does not involve any hot wiring...

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc

 

Hi everyone,
I hope someone can help.I have a w124 convertible 1996.The soft top when engaged to go down it only un latches but won’t go further.

 

First step is to verify the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir located in the rear.

 

If your problem isn't leaking hydraulics, top problems are most commonly caused by limit switches, there's a LOT of them, and they each have to sequence correctly for the top to go up or down. There's switches in the windshield latches that indicate they are locked or not, it won't operate if they aren't locked. then, there's limit switches on the tonneau cover, the bow lift, and the main lift

 

oh hey, found this functional diagram that shows all the limit switches, along with a trouble shooting list.

 

Top won't open
Hi all, I'm new here.
1995 W124 E220 Cabriolet
When I attempt to open the top, I lower the 2 levers on under the windscreen, raise the roof front section. The 4 windows come down, I can hear the pump working but roof does not raise at rear and doesn't retract.
When I had the top open last and everything was working very very slowly, I was advised and removed the back lock (under rear glass area) as this would be an issue if it doesn't release.
I think it's a pump pressure issue but how can I check this before I send my pump away for rebuild.
FYI No hydraulic fluid leaks. I have had the main large struts rebuilt recently.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Located in Sydney Australia.

 

dunno how you'd test that, my cabrio had 260,000 miles (thats over 400,000 km) and the pump was still fine.

 

If fluid was neglected it could be the valve block too. Little bits of cylinder seal rubber can find its way to places it shouldn't be.
Can you put a hand on pump while running it? I'd further test by taking pump reservoir cap off and hold above opening while someone operated switch. It should be returning oil to reservoir. Careful it could be messy, but return is low pressure. Pump has a relay as well.
First things first....confirm motor pump runs. If not it's electrical.

 

If fluid was neglected it could be the valve block too. Little bits of cylinder seal rubber can find its way to places it shouldn't be.
Can you put a hand on pump while running it? I'd further test by taking pump reservoir cap off and hold above opening while someone operated switch. It should be returning oil to reservoir. Careful it could be messy, but return is low pressure. Pump has a relay as well.
First things first....confirm motor pump runs. If not it's electrical.

Thanks for your reply Alte
I had the 2 main struts rebuilt 6 months ago and all oil replaced.
Pump is running, i can hear it clearly.
If pump is working could it still be a fuse issue either pump relay or engine bay or under seat fuses?