This is on the '99 E430.

 

There is something in the sticky:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1353354-shift-module-removal.html

looks like more screws.

 

Thanks iluvjesus.

The shifter module is now removed. It is a little different than the thread you referred to in that there are actually 2 more allen bolts on the opposite side from the ones I had marked. They were hidden under the left air hose to the rear air vents in the center console. I found it helpful to remove the rear center console, so the air hose could be removed and the module taken out, after removing the clip that holds it to the gearbox linkage and 3 electrical plugs at the rear.

So, the best order to attack it is: remove the gear knob, wooden trim with switches around the shift stick, then remove the rear part of the center console itself including storage box, then the air tubes to the rear vents, the four allen headed bolts (2 on each side), disconnect the gear box linkage, disconnect the three electric plugs at the rear of the module and lift the module clear.

When the module is out, it can be taken apart by levering the plastic clips on each side and the front. The two torx screws on the bottom do not need to be taken out. The electric switch is a push fit in the bottom housing and this may be the last thing resisting the two housing halves coming apart.To get the electric switch out you have to remove the two bolts that secure the axle that the shift lever rides on, then lift the axle and bearings out - make sure all the pieces stay together to be re-fitted!. Finally you have the electric switch in hand.

I sprayed contact cleaner into it and it seemed to make no difference! When reassembling it, I noticed that putting sideways pressure on the switch housing where the elecric connector is made the "D" light up and the gearbox shift as expected. So in the end, I wedged the switch body slighty to one side with a small piece of wood.

I think unless you want to replace the switch with a new one, this is the best approach.

 

bad contact repair

I sprayed contact cleaner into it and it seemed to make no difference! When reassembling it, I noticed that putting sideways pressure on the switch housing where the elecric connector is made the "D" light up and the gearbox shift as expected. So in the end, I wedged the switch body slighty to one side with a small piece of wood.

I think unless you want to replace the switch with a new one, this is the best approach.

Thanks for the info.
I recently took apart my C43 shifter module to get the lever to move between D and 4.
Prior to taking it apart i haven't had any contact issues.
Now "R" light on the shifter module isn't coming on (the lights on the rear do work though) and "D" is flaky, sometimes the light is not on but then i wiggle the stick and it is stable for the rest of the day.
I'm thinking about either replacing the sensor module (looking for a part) but it doesn't look like anything is wrong with the one i've got now.
Thanks for mentioning the detail about the piece of wood, maybe i should try that next.
I've been thinking about laying a layer of solder on the copper PCB contacts that the lever is touching, to raise these up a bit to help to maintain the contact, but i'm not sure if solder is a good long term solution, it might get chewed off over time.

 

Thanks Colink, did you take any picture of your DIY? It would be helpful for the others with similar unit if you post those pic in the sticky. Glad that you have solved the problem yourself.

 

Sorry iluvjesus, not this time, but I promise I will next time.

 

Hope this won't be too soon

 

hangup,

I didn't see the contacts you refer too, but my solution was short lived. I am about to take it all apart again and replace this part:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=2105451332

 

Photos of selector switch replacement

OK I replaced the switch and it totally solved the problem. Here are some photos and comments to help anyone else who may need to do this:

First photo - 4 bolts hold the unit in the car - I've marked one in this photo
2nd photo - you can see the holes where 2 more bolts came out
3rd - this is the underside - you do NOT need to take the two torx head screws out
4th - getting all the plastic clips unhooked at the same time!
5th - there was a thin plastic cover over this end which I took off and the two small bolts (M8? M10?) at the top and bottom of the picture need to be removed to allow the upper and lower halves of the assembly to come apart. Needs to be done before unhooking the clips in photo 4!
6th - now the top half has been removed and the switch with the indicator lights on top can be seen
7th - lousy photo of the switch from the side
8th - the switch from the other side
9th - switch removed (just pull) and you can see the post that protrudes from the axel and needs to be engaged in the bottom of the new switch - a bit tricky - but not much
10th - here is the side plastic cover ready to go back on after the two halves have been put back together and the two small bolts refitted.

Good luck!

 

Thanks, colink, for the photos.

There was a member yesterday having problem with the gear recognition switch.

 

i had to replace the same part as well.
it's been working great for a few months now and i can shift into any gear

 

Me too. I replaced the gear selector switch in the shifter in my '98 E320 about a month ago & all is well - that cured the problem where the car wouldn't shift out of first when it was cold (unless I put the lever in "4") but it worked fine in "D" 5 minutes later when car was warmed up. I followed the directions in this post & the process went just as shown. Now it shifts correctly all the time, even when cold.

Two things I would note - I fished a thin wire through the clip which holds the linkage on the shifter and twisted the wire closed, and held onto that wire, so that if I dropped the clip while removing it, the clip wouldn't disappear somewhere between the underside of the body & the top of the transmission! I did the same thing putting the clip back on, didn't take that wire off until the clip was securely on the shifter linkage. Also, the shift bushing was kind of crumbly and a chunk of it came out when I took the shifter out of the car, so I ran down to the dealer & bought a new one and replaced the bushing while I had the shifter out. Much easier to do with the shifter out, and it cost only $5 at the dealer. They had the bushing in stock.

 

Does anyone know the part number of this item (selector position recognition switch) for a 1997 E420? Is it the same 210-545-13-32, or different? What's the best place to order online?

 

Your 210.072 does use that same 210-545-13-32. I would get from an online dealer. Shop around to see if you can beat $59.

 

$59! I've only found $78. You're good! I'm not even close!

 

I got the part and installed it. But when I tried to start my car, it didn't start. All the lights came on as normal but no vroom vroom. Any suggestions. The selector swithch is kind of difficult to install.

 

Hi Dusty - what was the outcome on that shift selector switch? I have a 97 E420 and all the shift quadrant lights are out now. Trans shifts fine otherwise. I bought the switch and some bushings and clips and will try to get up courage to tear into my beautiful wood grain to remove the shifter box. The part arrived from Autohaus AZ in only a day, good service. Newer face lift W210s have a totally different shift mechanism and do not use this selector switch/light panel. In my 97 the switch just controls lights and the actual shifting is done by moving the lever back and forth.

 

Hi Dusty - what was the outcome on that shift selector switch?

It worked fine for a little while, but then issues with getting D engaged surfaced. D wasn't lighting up and the tranny was acting weird and confused. It was working fine in other positions. Jiggling the shifter around usually got the D to light up and everything was fine, but after a little bit it was back to acting up again.

So, I decided to remove the the trim surrounding the shifter and first blew compressed air to blow out all loose dirt, dust and what ever out. I then sprayed pretty liberal amounts of electrical contact cleaner to all the crevices and holes I found.

Was acting up still a few days, but has been trouble free for almost 6 months now. :thumbsup:

Dusty hooked up with Elvis and they both left the building. Total vacuum.

Haha! Yeah, not sure what happened to him, but I don't think he's been here ever since I bought the car from him back in May.

 

Dusty hooked up with Elvis and they both left the building. Total vacuum.

 

I guess your problem is a bit different than what I had since your tranny is working fine. Mine was shifting erratically, hanging on gears, jerking shifts etc. All this due to it being confused about the signal it got from the shifter module.

I did not disconnect the batter, even though I guess I should have...

Main thing for me is that everything has worked fine for a long time now, so I'm considering the problem solved. There is no play in the shifter etc.

 

Colink thanks for all the pics ,I do have one question when replacing the selector switch.The pin from the shaft should be set in the selector switches V shaped grove or in the round spot with the copper connection . Thanks

 

looking at the video "GotGlasses" posted.... so getting the gear lever off is a "left/right" motion, and NOT an anti-clockwise turn....??? hahahaha