loubapache

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Figuero · Jan 2, 2015

Happy New Year and nice to hear from you. Yes Phil did retire, I'm not sure on how good of terms he left because the last time I saw him a few years ago he didn't seem very happy. Anyway, I'm hoping to retire myself at the end of 2015. I still "live" in Chicago but only every other weekend. I work full time in Washington DC and the travel is really getting old.

The E430 is starting to show it's age (so am I) and has been passed on to our son who is at the Univ of Wyoming. We have been messing with the battery issue since the summer. But I think we might have it licked. After two days it's holding at 12.60 volts.

I see you have a new Outback. I'm seriously considering one as a retirement present to myself. I'm very familiar with the new Forester but I think the Outback suits us better.

Take care - Michael

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petya0980 · Oct 1, 2013

Hello I saw your instruction in replacing the speed sensors in w210 the conductor plate I mean , I did that because my car won't shift even after I tried disconnecting the battery it was still stuck , now I replaced the conductor plate , do I need to reset the computer again in order to have it work properly ? Because I changed the conductor plate and the check engine is still on and it doesn't shift , can you please message me I would really like your feedback.

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lennonlovechild · Sep 9, 2013

Sorry for the ping but I've been unable to find a solution. First thanks for taking a leadership role and providing advice. My 97 300 diesel ( 170,000) was due for trans drain/filter maintenance. I noticed a leak and went to replace the AT elec plug or pilot bushing. The 7 mm bolt turns both ways but the bolt does not back out or advance therefore the bushing or plug cant be removed. If the bolt is sheared off, can I pry the plastic back and ease the bushing out?

Should I have to pull the conductor plate and either tap out or replace. Please advise and thank you

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mrusconi · Jun 11, 2013

Thank you for all of your extensive work with the speed sensors and conductor plate. I have a 1997 E30 and a couple of weeks ago we started to notice that the shifting points were not as usual and that shifting happened later and they also kind of rushed into the next gear (minor clunk). A few days ago it went into Limp mode... the one that is cleared with a simple restart. Seems to me that this is an ideal candidate for the fix as you have described. Problem is I cannot read the codes or clear the codes. Will I need to clear the codes if the car has been in the simple reset Limp mode after I replace the conductor plate and spring? Is the O.E.M. conductor plate sufficient or should I go for the Mercedes replacement (much more). I would love to fix this myself, but I am worried about the apparent need to clear the codes others have mentioned.Thanks again for all of your work and time to help others.

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emef75 · Sep 12, 2012

hi
thank you guys for helping us.
I have problem and I need help
I was trying to change the Pressure Spring , but every thing came out and mixed up.
as in attached Pic. can you help me put it back together.

as shown in Pic , I had gave a letters for the parts, and numbered the holes , please mach the the part with its hole .. for example: tell me to put in hole No. 1 put Spring D 1st then part A

thank you again for your help
MB spring | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

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500s · May 25, 2012

Hello, Any idea on how to replace the headlights on a 2001 w 210 E class? Different bumper than the 97 one in video

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85500sel · Jan 15, 2012

Sir, My name is Kevin and I live up near the Pentwater/Ludington area. I have recently acquired a 99 E320 and have read almost everything you have posted here on Benzworld. First off thank you for all your help and experience and specifically all your time invested in this site! My personal question is for a recommendation for a good indie shop here on the west coast to use for code clearing? I have done the conductor plate, change out and 13 pin and cleaned TMC etc...using your sticky's and I need to either find someone to clear or I am considering buying the Carsoft 7.4 for my own garage. I do not want to drive it very far without getting the codes reset. Any commendations would be greatly appreciated! Best Regards, Kevin

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msedc · Oct 26, 2011

Do you still have the WIS Pdf for the W210 transfer case fluid change?

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daimlex · Oct 21, 2011

Good morning. Just read your recommendations about transmission fluid for your 1997 E320. Is there a specific product number for the Valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid you used? I want to be certain I buy the exact fluid that has been successful for you.

Thanks in advance for your help.

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slrbat · Sep 10, 2011

Hi I read this post Mercedes-Benz 722.6 Transmission FAQ

I find it very helpful but my car is a W210 1997 E300 Diesel and I want to know what transmision it has.

Thanks!!!

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bjzman100 · Nov 19, 2010

I am having the similar issue as the one in this tread you posted in: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1438891-ignition-key-wont-turn.html

I started this thread yesterday: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1555176-96-e320-key-wont-turn-car.html

I tried using my jig saw to vibrate the key to get it to trun with no luck. Do you know how to remove the tumbler when it is locked like this.
Thanks for any help you can provide.

Brian

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e300_raleigh · Sep 29, 2010

hi Loubapache;

Could you send me a copy of that CAN BUS diagnostic file you sent to someone to resolve this thread. I would be greatly appreciated as I am chasing the same basic problem.

Thread:http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ar-axle-4.html

My email is [email protected]

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dsmith · Aug 18, 2010

You sent a CAN BUS diagnostic file to someone last year. Do you still have it that you can email to me? I am trying to follow that thread and the CAN pdf I found on carlogic.com, but I'm not getting what I need.

Thread:http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1448227-no-power-window-roar-rear-axle-4.html

Basically, I don't know which plug is for which module in the X30/7 connector, so I have no idea what module is not dormant based on voltages or unplugging.

Symptom is that over a week's time (after battery reset), all convenience items fail to work, except the front overhead light.

My emial is: [email protected]
Thanks,
David Smith

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280T 4Matic · Aug 18, 2010

Hi, sorry to message you directly, but no answer on my thread. Is it possible that RPM valve and RPM sensor could be the same? Ore is this another thing I might suggest to change as well? Thank you for your support. Have a great day.

rkbad · Jul 30, 2010

hi Loubapache: doing all right? would you please correct the title of my thread by removing 'pre-facelift', so that folks aren't confused....cheers!

incorrect: W210 pre-facelift Front Bumper Lower Grille Gitter Racingmesh

correct: W210 Front Bumper Lower Grille Gitter Racingmesh

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1533917-w210-pre-facelift-front-bumper-lower.html

rlindbenz · Jul 26, 2010

Hey loubapache,

do you know where the bose amp is installed in my 97 E420. I want to use it as a back up if the amp in my 95 SL500 is bad. Somebody installed an Alpine unit that has problems and I want to insure that if I replace the bose head with my 97, and the bose amp is burned, I have an immediate solution.

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jgrenuk · Jul 11, 2010

hi, i am new to the group, need to remove the lower dash on w210, found a post that referred to a diy "sticky" at the top of the 210 forum. i have no clue what a sticky is, or where to find them....could you point me? thanks, joe

KarlBenzSF · Jun 24, 2010

went back to zhejiang already?

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KenF · Jun 4, 2010

Neat avatar! That's how I tracked you down. I would like to say that your input on this forum is greatly appreciated and I am sure that I am not the only one that notices how much work you put in and respects your expertise.

Sorry to message you direct but my post in the w124 forum seems to have died a slow death and I want to do the Fan clutch mod suggested in the "Bible".

My problem is that the description is not very detailed and I have a few questions.

1) Will this mod make the clutch engage at a lower temp or does it just lock it on for all temps? If so what temp and can I get it down to 24C?

2) How critical is the 1mm measurement, because it looks like it might be difficult to change this once the radiator is back in?

3) How is the clutch disengaged at 3,250 rpm and what are my chances of buggering that up?

4) Is my clutch "junk" (I don't think so). If it is will this mod work?

Here's a link to my post . Thanks in Advance or your help.

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sutekh · Jun 2, 2010

I apologize for sending a direct message, but I didn't get any responses to a request I put on the forum, and I know you have a vast knowledge base. I'm hoping you can help me with my car issue.

I recently replaced the brake light switch because the ASR/BAS light was coming on intermittently, and after a week, the ASR/BAS light was back on. I found the switch wasn't working correct, even though it was purchased from a dealership. I took it to the dealership to see why the part didn't work, and they explained there were some more problems with the car. Here is a list of codes the dealership provided to me.
65
116
135
P0170
P0173
P1584
C1200
C1025

The service center was about to close so they asked me to bring the car back so they can do a complete diagnostic. I would like to get some advice here if possible on what I'm looking at as far as problems.