[keyhole]

so to not go back and forth what DOES have to be removed to remove the regulator? does the c piler, lower pannel, the seat, and the exterior lil trim strip have to come out? also do i have to put the window down before the process, because Nigel stated to put the window all the way up to install it correctly? all this work has to be done with the battery disconnected right?

Why not read post #1?

for the time being till i get new parts how can i close the window all the way up so the car is not sitting in 115F temp with window down and so i can run my ac while im driving?

Probably depends how it has failed. Just try to gently raise the glass. If it comes up, hold it in place with some gaffer tape.

 

[Seksas08]

Job was done, took about 4 hours just because i rushed it the first time put everything together and the window was misaligned. Took it back apart, put it back together again still misaligned. Then realized Mercedes is very clever and smart if u close the window all the way up you dont have to keep taking out the lower portion or most of the stuff off. They have these rubber plugs at the top and just happens to be where the window bolts end up, i also dropped the rubber pieces inside so i had to fish them out cuz i kept working with a flash light. It would of helped if i had a second person or some tape but i rushed it and wasnt fully prepared.
Took pics along the way, and for the most part it is a VERY easy job just time consuming. I can tear the whole back apart and get the window out in roughly about 30-45 mins at most.

I fixed it with the $32 ebay kit. The part that was broken was the sliding pulley, it was broken in half. Wiring wasnt too bad if u follow instructions above. The wire trick helped a lot, and honestly you can do it alone, i did it. Cuts up your fingers a lil in the process till you get the hang of it.

So to make it clear and easy everything has to come off (c pilar, seat bottom, lower portion, upper portion, outside lower trim, seatbelt assembly, .. for the tools you need.. a 10mm head and a 13mm, screw driver, a 25,27 and 30 torx, cheap $10 plastic prier kit and a lil hook.

I got annoyed and connected the battery with the back torn apart to raise the window so i can get to the bolts. Because if you leave the pulley in the middle you wont be able to reach one nut.

another thing your hands will be dirty and you will get the c pillar/top dirty unless youre super careful.

 

[keyhole]

Very well done..

 

[BenzDogs]

How can I pull the window up? My window is stuck all the way down so I can only see the top edge of the glass sticking out. It dropped down a couple inches at a time when the regulator went out, but I couldn't pull it up. I didn't want to pull too hard and break something.

I have removed the upper interior trim panel. When I remove the grommets to loosen the bolts, the glass is blocking me from the bolts.

Has anyone removed the lower trim panel without removing the c-pillar trim?

Thanks in advance.

 

[rudeney]

My guess is that the bushing where the glass attaches to the regulator has broken. With the interior door trim panel removed, you should be able to push the glass back up and then lower the regulator, then lower the glass, and repair the bushing.

 

[BenzDogs]

Thanks, but the glass is really stuck. When it first started falling, I couldn't pull it up or down. It just dropped on its own over several days until it fell all the way down. Even after I saw it drop a few inches, I immediately tried to pull it back up (or push down) and it wouldn't move. The WIS to remove the glass just says to move the glass up but it won't move. The bolts that are supposed to be for adjusting the glass are not accessible because they are blocked by the glass.

Is there a special trick to releasing the glass to pull it up? I don't want to break it.

Right now, I just need to raise the glass to keep rain out.

 

[Seksas08]

Thanks, but the glass is really stuck. When it first started falling, I couldn't pull it up or down. It just dropped on its own over several days until it fell all the way down. Even after I saw it drop a few inches, I immediately tried to pull it back up (or push down) and it wouldn't move. The WIS to remove the glass just says to move the glass up but it won't move. The bolts that are supposed to be for adjusting the glass are not accessible because they are blocked by the glass.

Is there a special trick to releasing the glass to pull it up? I don't want to break it.

Right now, I just need to raise the glass to keep rain out.

if i recall correctly, glass will not move untill you disconnect it from the motor. also if its just the cable and the lil plastic wheel dont buy the whole regulator. and no you cant go arround without removing the c pillar. tbh its such a dumb repair no wonder why shops charge around 1k. i did it alone but an extra set of hands would help.

 

[rudeney]

I have to retract my previous comment - I thought this was the glass in the door, not the rear side glass. Int hat case, it sounds like the regulator and Seksas' advice is what you need to follow.

 

[Jefffeet]

Coupe rear window regulator attachment

NewShockerGuy, I'm stuck right where you were... top teo attachments loose, I cannot locate the lower attachment. I have all the trim off and think I can see most of the regulator from inside the car and from out side ( glass and window trims are removed.
Do you recall what the lower pivot ended up being? And access point.
Thank you.

I am probably 90% way of getting the darn regulator plate out... I have a question.

I removed the glass that was fine. I removed the two top nuts that hold the black window regulator to the body.

I can pivot the regulator plate left and right a few inches but it appears that it is STILL connected somewhere at the bottom. I do not see any more nuts to loosen even though the directions state 5 nuts need to be loosened?

I can't see where a nut is but this nuts. I can see the cable and white plastic are broken so now I know what to replace... but I can't pull out the entire regulator plate.

Any suggestions?

2005 clk320.

UPDATE!:

One must remove the exterior real trim piece that is attached past the door.. the piece that has a chrome strip. Just pull with trim removal tools which then reveals the FINAL nut that has to be removed in order to pull the regulator straight out!

FINALLY!!!


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[Benzyle]

Have you removed the exterior body side moulding ? Behind it there is an E7 torx adjuster bolt secured with a 13mm nut. Normally you should remove this before you take out the two top nuts which are marked number 5 in the diagram.
After that the regulator should lift out.

 

[Jefffeet]

Thank you Benzyle. Post #28, with the photos, which could not make sense to my addled brain. I could reach the nut with my hand around the regulator assembly (painful), but unable to get any tool in there. Accessing that last attachment point from the exterior now makes sense.

Thank you all for your patience.

 

[Benzyle]

Good luck Jefffeet,,Just take it slowly and you will get it done.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

^ Yep exactly this.

I had it updated in the post he quoted.

UPDATE!:

One must remove the exterior real trim piece that is attached past the door.. the piece that has a chrome strip. Just pull with trim removal tools which then reveals the FINAL nut that has to be removed in order to pull the regulator straight out!

-Nigel

 

[Jefffeet]

Thank you. All is well and working, due to the notes on this thread.

 

[sker66]

Kit Rebuild vs. All New Assembly

First let me thank all you guys not only for posting this initial thred but adding and maintaining it over the years. This thread is by far the best I have found on this subject.

I had a driver rear windowregulator failure last week on my wifes car. Its a 2009 CLK 350 with only 50k miles. Babied in a So California climate and always garaged. This actually is shocking for a Mercedes to fail like this in such low mileage and especialy because it was a cable breaking and not the plastic parts. I finally got it all disasembled today and partially disasembled the components of the assembly and this is what I discovered.
1.....Cable frayed and broken
2....Plastic cable block and plastic wheels do not look bad at all
3...Plastic motor drum wheel is fairly chewed up

Im not sure if I can find a replacement drum wheel as I havn't found any in the kits yet but will look online after I post this.

Im inclined to buy a new assembly and found the cheapest price so far at https://www.mb.parts/oem-parts/merc...XN1bHRzJmE9bWVyY2VkZXMtYmVueiZvPWNsazM1MCZ5PTIwMDkmdD1iYXNlJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM=

Sale price @ $379

If anyone has any good parts suppliers that can beat this or any rebuild kits and their links I would surely appreciate it. Thanks for all your efforts on this series so far........Geno

 

[Benzyle]

I have a left side failure as well. I can hear the cable flapping around when I press the switch.
I think there are plastic kits on ebay which are very cheap but I don't know if that will help you.
Another alternative is a used part . I got a whole regulator for $165 from a wrecker/breaker. I know it could fail again as well, but considering I put that window down only about once a year I am willing to try it.
Good luck.

 

[rudeney]

There have been several posts int he forum where members used ebay kits to replace the cable and plastic bits. I have not seen any long term reports on this, but for the price ($15), I think I'd try it.

 

[keyhole]

Is there anything we can do externally (as preventive maintenance) to reduce the friction at the window glass as it travels up/down? This must put a load on the regulator and all the other moving parts of the system.

Maybe a silicone product on the horizontal neoprene seals?

 

[rudeney]

That's an interesting idea. I think the problem is whatever you lubricate the seal with would end up as an oily mess on the glass. Also, I am not sure the issue is friction on the seal. I think the plastic bushings in the regulator mechanism just wear out. The glass doesn't make a smooth up/down movement. It follows a bit of a zig-zag pattern and I think that's a stressful actuation of the regular. Also, it moves every time you open the door, so it's not like on a "normal" car where the rear window may not be operated but dozens of times a year.

 

[Benzyle]

Is there anything we can do externally (as preventive maintenance) to reduce the friction at the window glass as it travels up/down? This must put a load on the regulator and all the other moving parts of the system.

Maybe a silicone product on the horizontal neoprene seals?

I agree with Rodney re a lubricant would probably make a mess,,but ,,,the other thing that can be done is to make sure the windows are really clean.
Mostly the outside can have a fallout ,film which even though the window appears clean ,you can feel resistance with your hand over the glass.
So now I actually polish my side and rear windows.
First with a clay bay, then a regular car polish , then a quality carnauba wax ,like Meguiars Gold Class.

Not sure if it prevents regulator problems , but it's surprising how much better they look and how smooth they feel.