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  • keyhole ·
    Hi

    This section is not really for technical solutions, as we cannot attach drawings here. Why not post your question on the W202 forum (omitting the names) where I and others will try to help you. That means that everybody can follow the discussion.

    It seems that the transmission is in limp-home mode. Get somebody to read the fault codes and report them to the forum with your post.

    cheers - k/h
    trishsings4 ·
    Hello, I'm Trish with 1998 C280 that has been in a shop since Feb. 2014.
    The car starts, goes up to 20 mph then does not go any faster. The motor revs but doesn't shift it only stays in 1st. The car has 150K miles. The middle console got some sodapop spilled on it so the trunk apparatus does not work.

    JoeJoe, (Prestige Automotive, Riverside, CA) has diagnosed the car, used other autoshop diagnostics but nothing shows up on his or theirs. 3 wks ago he sent my car to Walters Mercedes Benz (Riverside, CA) for their diagnostic input. He hasn't called me back yet.

    He's tested it for months and assured me that he'd repair it. Since I was on disability then I didn't have an urgent work/travel schedule. Now that I'm recovered (thank God) can work again I'd like my car to use.

    He has only been paid $500 so far for parts and things he's tried off and on.
    I hope you can help me at least give JoeJoe some info as to what to look for.
    Thank you and take care,
    Trishsings4
    keyhole ·
    Hi

    This section is not really for technical solutions, as we cannot attach drawings here. Why not post your question on the W209 forum (just as it is) where I and others will try to help you. That means that everybody can follow the discussion.

    cheers - k/h
    Tjozment ·
    I have a 2004 w209 CLK convertible with the drivers side rear window stuck about two inches from the closed position. It is off the track and I cannot make it move up or down. I've pulled the rear seat bottoms and the entire side panel to get to the glass so I can remove it. Looking online at images of the glass section, it appears to have 3 bolts securing it in place.

    I'm stuck big time knowing the rear head rests need to be removed then the upper seat backs to get the window regulator out.

    Any ideas on how to remove the glass?
    Can I reverse the process for the emergency raising of the top?
    Any suggestions on sourcing the straps no longer with the vehicle used to manually release the tonneau cover?

    You can reach me here or at [email protected]

    I appreciate any assistance you may offer.
    SuperChargerE55 ·
    Brother you are simply NO 1.
    Huge huge thanks man thank you so much I got no Words and pls forgive me for hassleing you like that wont happen Again.

    You saved me bro, you really saved me :)
    SuperChargerE55 ·
    Keyhole you ar eth best, mate I also did some further investigation, handson and found both the drain plug and the filler plug, filler i located left side and drain on the right saide YAHOOO.
    Now I only need diff oil spec I think is 75w/90 and or im not sure 100 % but will call the local MB dealer tomorrow as what I understand both drain plugs should be replaced with new, Sealed with some sealer type of stuff not sure tough and then of course there is the amount some say 1.1 L some say 1.5L I think it should be topped up until is full with car standing on the ground and or on lift, stable not with ass lifted up in th air :)..

    Bro you are the best I cant thank you enough for what ever you come up with I am very very very thankfully you do this I could never ask anybody for more. Bro you saved me this time Again but more than I can ever thank you for.. I make damn sure everybody knows that ;)
    Have a good evening/day in not sure your time hehe
    keyhole ·
    Hi - I've taken a look through my WIS, and there is a little information there. Very little, as the differential does not have a scheduled service.

    However, in the W208 rear axle section there is some info on the fill and drain screws, which were changed in 2004 to a different design. Also the quantity, oil specification and torques are listed. I cannot do attachments on pm, so I will do a new post on your W208 forum to cover this task (later this evening)

    cheers - k/h
    SuperChargerE55 ·
    Hi mate, can you assist me with your WIS acess for my CLK 320 W208 VIN Nr: WDB2083651F136717 I need info for REAR Differential oil change, I looked everywhere cant find anything and am in Deep need of doing this as got a 800km drive me and my wife and our Little son. I explain later but I hope you can help I aint got my WIS on this laptop.
    my private mail is [email protected] your friend Martin... PS am in holliday DK and got some noise from rear diff and got change to do it here, cant find what I need and have looked very hard mate, they all are wrong nothing looks like mine so far.
    AFaulk ·
    Hey Keyhole,
    Sorry to bug you but I haven't found anyone as knowlegable as you on any of these forums. Hope you can tell me where to look now. Told you about the hiccup after replacing the pressure switch, front rotors & pads (abs light & brake wear warning); all cleared after cutting engine off & restarting. Riding with no lights/warnings for a few days & I was quite happy. Took it to Mercedes for an inspection yest & on the way home, got the abs light and esp malfunction, but no problem switching gears (not locked this time). Cut if off & back on, "no malfunctions." Short trip to the store last night & on the way back, abs light came on, display malfunction & brake wear warning came up, speedometer stopped working. Put in park (locked up this time), cut off engine, back on, everything was cleared. Obviously pressure switch did something to help, because now the lights/warnings/problems are intermittent, but there's got to be something else. It's driving me crazy, I can't enjoy it.
    keyhole ·
    Hi - My apologies for this late reply. I note that you have now posted this question to the W209 forum, and have been told exactly what I would have said. It cannot be done, unfortunately. cheers - k/h
    clk.slo ·
    Hi, im from slovenia. I fond u on this forum. I have CLK W209 2003, and i tray to change-uppgrade centre console but upper buttons wont fit, connertors are different. I have 6 pin connector and 6 cables. The facelift one have diferent pins. Any hellp here? Soory for my english. Thanks.
    keyhole ·
    skerdian
    Hi - there are lots of threads on our forums that will deal with VIN decodes, so we don't usually do this by pms or vms....

    However, I took a look at yours, and these early VINs don't give very much info. No delivery date is shown. It has the following, and not much else:

    Engine No: 602912 10 163 911
    Transmission: 717413 01588622
    Body: 10707
    Order no: 0929718636 - maybe an MB dealership could work it out from that.
    skerdian ·
    hey how are you? I saw in another post that you helped someone decode a vin...do you think you can help me out please? Vin is : WDB1241251B279895 , its a 1990 250D (euro spec)...the most interested part i'd like to know is month and year it was manufactured, probably sometime in 1989? any help would be great!! thank you in advance if you can be of any help
    keyhole ·
    CL6OOTT

    I cannot find the thread that you are referring to here...

    However, regarding those high current fuse links, I'm sure that they are replaceable singly - although I cannot find the items in the MB EPC.
    keyhole ·
    Markus

    I got if from the local MB dealership. It does not fit permanently in the dipstick tube - it's too long and hangs on the garage wall.

    You can find the part number on this thread here:

    http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1325907-oil-level-measuring-stick-2.html

    The parts desk also gave me a chart for my M112 engine detailing the calibrated level in mm for the full level. If you need that information for your CLK 500 engine let me know.

    cheers k/h
    CL6OOTT ·
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by keyhole View Post
    MM - Maybe I'm not following your point, but I don't think that your example holds water...

    The current that flows in any circuit is a function of the voltage applied and the resistance (impedance), according to Ohm's Law. If you jump start a car, all you are doing is adding an external battery in parallel to the fixed battery, and the voltage is still 12v. The current produced from the alternator will not increase as a result of the jump. Should an external fault occur, there is a pre-fuse f3 (150A) at X4/10 to protect the generator.
    My pre-fuse f3 at X4/10 is blown, don't ask how....

    Can I get a replacement fuse like this anywhere or do I need to replace the entire X4/10 box which cost 232 from dealer ?
    keyhole ·
    Hi

    You did not say what engine running problems you are experiencing -other than the EML. Also, this type of question is really best put on the W209 forum, where lots of experience can be shed on your problem, and the answers can help everybody.

    As you know, the EML is really only concerned with ignition, FI and emissions problems - normally from a failed/faulty sensor. I would have looked for the problem in the following order.

    1. Crankshaft position sensor. They do not throw a unique fault code, but cause other faults to show. Sometimes a faulty CPS will prevent starting (esp when hot). Other times they will cause faulty running and a bunch of associated codes.
    2. MAF. This can cause all sorts of engine running problems - esp at tick-over.
    3. O2 sensors. They can cause emission faults and various codes.

    I hope this can help - at least it's something to consider. cheers - k/h
    mac7 ·
    Hi Keyhole,

    I wonder if you can help or advise me?

    I have a MB CLK350 (2005) Cabrio and in the last 6 weeks the EML keeps turning on and the dealer had the car back and forth about 6-7 times. They have changed the intake manifold, the air pump 3 times and the camshaft solenoid so far and still the EML light came on again after only a few miles. Also about a year ago they changed the air pump and secondary air pump as well.

    I really feel the dealer doesn't know what the real issue is. But I really think there must be another answer than just changing parts as per the computer results.

    The car has had some sort of fuel/air mixture issue since when the first air pump was changed about a year ago and it seems to me that they still haven't found main issue and are just changing different parts.

    I would really appreciate any help or advise as I don't seem to be getting anywhere with the dealers and have spent a small fortune so far.

    Many thanks,
    Mac
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