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Thank you G-AMG for the great write up! I bought all the parts on the list and will be doing this today. The onlly difference is that while I am in the valve body, I will be installing the Blue top solonoids. The blue tops are in some AMG's and the SLR's and are not for everybody. They firm and quicken the shifts. I will check back latter and let everyone know how it worked out.
 
Does the trans code need to be reset for this job? I am on the fence debating whether to do myself or send to MB Dealer. i am mechanically inclined (changed head gasket & timing belt etc. on a '98 Eclipse)....

My OBD gave me a P0715...its an '02 E320 with 96K mi. I have not yet bought parts or anything...but I'd save around $500 if I did it myself.

Thanks
T
 
Does the trans code need to be reset for this job? I am on the fence debating whether to do myself or send to MB Dealer. i am mechanically inclined (changed head gasket & timing belt etc. on a '98 Eclipse)....

My OBD gave me a P0715...its an '02 E320 with 96K mi. I have not yet bought parts or anything...but I'd save around $500 if I did it myself.

Thanks
T
PO715, means you have to clear the code with ONLY a Mercedes usuable scanner.

And........................

You might need a connector and conductor plate.


But you HAVE to clear the code with a Mercedes scanner or the trans WILL NOT shift.
 
my guess is that it is the conductor plate, about $150 on fleabay, plus I woul need filter, oil, and 13pin plug...

Weird thing is, the trans will shift, etc. before it would not do anything....i havent driven it since the incident this past saturday (sitting in the garage waiting for repair).

Members have posted DIY's on it, but no-one mentions resetting the TCU.

Thanks
T
 
Halfway through this repair.

Note to anyone reading- when reinstalling, use a jack to hold the valve body/ electric plate in place while you bolt it in. I tried doing mine after a long day, and found I couldn't hold what I guess to be 30 or 40 lbs of weight above my head for 10+ minutes, the whole thing fell, and I have to buy new covers for the solenoids on the valve body. Only $10, if the conductor plate is reasonably shock-resistant.

I'll have more updates when this is done.
 
So I completed the repair.

I refilled the fluid, turned her on, no leaks.

Idle in park: fine
Idle in neutral: fine
Idle in reverse: rough
Idle in drive: rough. Upon engaging drive, the CEL came on.

I can no longer shift by moving the shifter side to side.

The car will not shift into 3rd, and at around 2500 rpm in 2nd, an audible whine can be heard.

Car is getting evaluated as we speak.

:(

I'm concerned it might be one of the solenoids on the valve body, during my first attempt at reinstallation, the whole thing fell 10 inches or so. The little yellow cover cracked but wasn't crushed, so I don't know. The mechanic says the solenoids are fairly tough, so maybe the computer is just rejecting the conductor plate?
 
Have you tried the "FREE" method?? (ie. Resetting the Tranny Computer??)

Turn key to position "2"
Hold gas pedal to floor for 5 seconds
Release and turn key to position "0" but DON"T TAKE THE KEY OUT!!
Wait a minimum of 2 minutes during this time DON"T TOUCH ANYTHING, and Don't open the doors,etc...
Now you're reset...
I wish I had seen this 8 hours ago, before sending the car to MB :\

What really gets me is that I had to do this to a Mitsubishi several years ago. I should have remembered.
 
So the car is fixed and the transmission is as smooth as butter.

Total: $1024 plus $250 in parts for the attempted repair. New valve body installed by the shop.

Luckily I'm on unemployment which means that I will be eating potatoes and ketchup for the next 3 months to afford the repair. FML.

The moral of the story: use a jack to lift the valve body back in.
 
I purchased a conductor plate, after receiving it and inspected it, it appears that the speed sensor is a removable part from the conductor plate. If speed sensor is the part malfunctioning, it can be removed from the new conductor plate and insert into the old plate on the valve body and hence save some labor of replacing the complete conductor plate and hence reduce the possibility of damaging other parts during the process of removing the conductor plate.

I haven't done this, but this would be what I would do when time comes.

I checked with the dealership, the speed sensor is not a part that can be purchased separately. The part number is A140 540 36 17.
 
I know this maybe a little too late to post, but when I was going through the 722.6 transmission service manual, I found the MB part number for the pressure regulator valve spring: 140 993 58 01.

I can't find this part number on EPC, so can't confirm if this part has been updated or not.

Hope this helps.
 
G-AMG, i am doing this same repair on my 97 s500, i am at the point where i am about to re-install the valve body to the bottom of the transmission, in your one picture you state "be sure to line up the shift mechanism to the body" i apologize for my stupidity, but what do you mean by that? as this is my first go with this repair like this on my car, and honestly i dont want to do it again. ('specially today as its going to be 105 degres here today. LOL.) thanx for the info and the tutorial, very easy to follow and job has gone smoothly thus far.
 
Hi all, I had my '97 E320 tranny go into soft limp because of a bad temp sensor. It would also shift rough from 1 to 2 only on the first shift of the day. After that all shifting would be ok. I replaced the conductor plate, filter, adapter & refilled with .10 fluid. There was no metal anywhere. No more soft limp mode, and all shifting is noticeably better, but the hard shift from 1 to 2 on the first shift of the day is still there. And it is not exactly hard, but it causes the engine to rev up quite high before tranny finally shifts. The shift itself is not hard. I used Carsoft 7.4 to read & erase codes. Is that the relief valve spring? Or is it a solenoid? I also stripped a few heads of torx valve body bolts and had to resort to a vice grip to get them out, so after reinstalling them I am now tempted to go back and replace the ones I stripped. This would give me another chance at the relief valve spring. But I want to be sure it is the spring and not one of the solenoids. Thank you in advance )
 
IMPORTANT NOTE: BE SURE TO FULLY INSTALL THE FILTER AND MAKE SURE IT CLICKS INTO PLACE WITH THE LITTLE TABS ON THE FLAT AREA.

Sorry for shouting but trust me, a loose filter causes shifts to end up in neutral which is a serious problem. After I changed the plate and plug I didn't secure my filter as good as I thought I should... it just would not click into place with the little tab on top. Though the shifting was improved and less confused but sometimes shifts would pop into neutral. I drained the fluid and made sure to pop my filter into place and WALLA, the car now performs perfectly!!

THANKS BENZWORLD! MY 2000 E320 now has brand new Michelins and I detailed her and she now looks, runs, AND SHIFTS just like new!

Jim
Seattle
 
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