pic. step by step

pictures say it all.

 

oil cooler leaking !!!!!!

pictures say it all.

Hello there i hope u can help me decice of what i need.. ok i replaced the bottom seal of the housing but its leaking from the side where the cooler is but i kinda striped the left top bolt so im wondering do i buy the oil cooler and housing or do i replace the side seals and use a bigger bolt for that side

 

more//

 

Fantastic write-up and photos - really appreciate it. My 1999 ML430 stated this issue about 170K. I was able to do the job in 30min. Be prepared for oil spill/ leak as you disassemble. The gaskets are available as a set for low as $15 (not sure about the quality).

 

Oil Leak

Assume it was on the ML 320. How many miles?

Super post. I think I have the same issue on a 99 ML430 with 162,000.

 

Assume it was on the ML 320. How many miles?

Super post. I think I have the same issue on a 99 ML430 with 162,000.

I have an ML430. 125K

 

great job DETANE . I had the same leak several weeks ago .
But I also repleaced oil cooler , because it didn't work right .
This leak was pin in the ass to find out . Took me 2 days , and many time cleaning engine front before I found it .
I like your new car details

 

Did those 2 silly o-rings seal kits actually cost $50!!

 

yup, they did. thats with a discount included. even the dealer said it was an outrage.

 

do all ml come with the oil cooler? never seen one on my 05 ml

 

Im not sure about the cooler. But i do know the 320's Oil Filter housing unit has no bottom seal. It is actually connected to the engine.

 

Great job Detane on this thread. This is the same oil leak that I am having as well. I have fixed three leaks in the past two month, oil pan gasket, rear main seal and the 13 pin adapter on the tranny. This is the last one I hope, going to the dealer to pick up the three seals needed to do this task. What is the torque spec on the 46 mm bolt?

 

torque specs

Anyone have the Torque specs for the cooler and housing bolts ?

Thanks
David

 

I changed the three seals today. I took out the oil canister nut with a 1-13/16 socket instead of the 46 mm one. It was hard to find the 46mm and the 1-13/16 is the same but in inches. I removed the secondary air pump to have more clearance in getting the bottom screw out of the oil cooler to the canister. Thank you Detane for the detail pictures....

 

all good pimp.. Lets keep our trucks rolling...

 

Insane. I changed spark plugs last night...removing the Drivers wheel to get in there...I found about a quart of oily nastiness all over the bottom of the truck. TERRIBLE. Bottom of the motor was spotless...so it's dripping from the top...I'm guessing the same issue. Mine however is a 2000 ML320.

 

Mecka,
If you stripped it, then Heli-Coil the hole. If it is the top right, be extra carefull because you can run into the oil canister. If you are not confident in doing this task, buy one on eBay. I see that you are a first time user, right your vehicle info in your profile.....

 

Oil Cooler

I too stripped a hole (lower bolt if I recall correctly) which is easy to do given the soft aluminum material. What I ended up doing is simply tapping the next size hole (I think I went next "inch" size or 2 larger than the metric with a thread forming screw. If I recall correctly, for one or more of the holes you could actually use a nut, although it would be somewhat challenging to get it into place. I did this almost 30,000 miles ago with no problems.

I do think the trick to this repair is to completely disconnect the oil cooler assembly via the 2 coolant lines, remove the big honking nut at the bottom of the filter housing and remove the complete assembly. Good luck.

 

How long does this job take for a first timer?

 

I have a 2003 ML500 that the dealer wants $465 to fix this problem. Does anyone have a pdf diagram to do this myself for the ML500 and any tips? I have speant countless hours and money tracing down this leak!

 

The pdf's in post #1 are all you need; all eight cylinders are the same.

 

Thanks 43sqd! Any other tips you can suggest would be helpful! I am going to do this next week as long as the napa has parts in stock!

 

The only other tip I can give you is not to bother with NAPA or any other place; they are not going to have these parts. They are dealer item only or on-line dealer only.

 

The job went smooth, Took about an hour and saved alot of money! Thanks for all the great details! However it seems I still have a leak and I believe it is the power steering pump, I have replaced the reservoir and o ring and it seems to still be leaking, I guess I am going to have to replace the pump to solve this problem. Any suggestions guys?

 

Clean it all up first and isolate it before throwing a $300 part at it. It may just be a hose.

 

Found answers

Housing bolt 70 NM
cooler bolts 11 NM

 

Found a one of the oil cooler gaskets leaking, 172,000.

I was just finishing up with the gaskets, just what I was looking for.

Thanks

Bryan

 

Hey Noodles and 43sqd......... Took it to yet another deal for the recall Once Again and they replaced the house that leads to the radiator for the 3rd time. That makes 2 hoses and a clamp. My fingers are crossed that the leak has ceased or at least until I can afford to trade it for a truck.

 

Are you absolutely sure that you have gotten a new hose each and every time. Maybe they are just replacing the clamp or tightening it. Take a good look at it before it gets too dirty to tell.

 

I am not sure at all after the ordeal that I have been through with this! However, I am 100% Sure this dealer put a new hose and new clamps on it this time! Do you recommend a good engine bath and what do you recommend for a DIY job? I used a citrus based degreaser when I did this oil seal job, but not sure if that is good for the whole engine bay.

 

Any one of the Gunk Engine Brite products, liquid, foam or gel. Follow directions; cold engine.

Degreasers and Cleaners

 

Resurrecting the thread...

I found all 3 seals in a kit for $14.70 at Autohaus


Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

 

Good to know.

I just changed mine so I doubt I will get a set. So far so good on the new gaskets, no leaks. I stripped the top left (back) bolt but I left it be as soon as I could feel it slipping. It seems to be holding.

 

Stick with OEM gaskets

JadedFury - hope your experience with the AutoHaus gaskets will be better than mine. Followed your link and ordered them. Definitely felt good about saving $ vs dealership. Until I saw another oil leak under the car!

Long story short - finally broke down and paid the dealership price (total bill $70) pulled out the AutoHaus gaskets - visually compared them and the Autohaus gaskets (made in China btw) were thinner. Circumference was ok, but the 2 smaller gaskets were definitely thinner. Put in OEM gaskets, leak is gone.

So, as usual on the internet, buyer beware.

 

has anyone done this on a w220? on the w220 it looks like it doesnt have an oil cooler. are the ML and S engines the same?

 

There are at least 20 models of W220. Which one are you asking about?

Take off front engine plastic cover and snap a picture.

 

In S430 and S500 you have to visually check for presence of oil cooler.

 

If anyone wants to buy a 46mm (3/4" drive) socket to removing the oil filter body/housing to replace the leaky o-rings, I have one that was used ONCE (well, actually twice ....once to remove and once to install)! $10, plus actual freight. It will go at the 2# rate.

Update: 5/15/2012 SOLD

 

If anyone wants to buy a 46mm (3/4" drive) socket to removing the oil filter body/housing to replace the leaky o-rings, I have one that was used ONCE (well, actually twice ....once to remove and once to install)! $10, plus actual freight. It will go at the 2# rate.

do you still have the socket? messaged you.

 

can someone clarify whether mercedes c180 w203 is equipped with an oile cooler and where is is located. thanks

You should be on this forum.

W203 C-Class - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum