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Oil filter housing seal and Oil cooler seals DIY

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230K views 112 replies 47 participants last post by  SABZILA  
#1 · (Edited)
Oil filter housing seal and Oil cooler seals


I noticed I was leaking oil and I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. I cleaned the entire front and sides of the engine with a microfiber cloth. I had already replaced the Valve cover plate and seal a few months back, so I know that wasn't the problem (that area had no oil drips). Did some research and found out sometimes the Lower Filter Housing Seal leaks. Next thing I did after I cleaned the engine, was to start this baby up. I let it run for 10 min, and sure thing, I saw a small drip slowly creep its way out of the bottom of the filter housing. I took the chance to also replace the Oil Cooler Seals since I had to remove it in order to remove the O.F.H.S..

Part's and #'s :
112-184-0061/17 (Seal Ring for Oil Filter housing to crank case)
112-184-0361 (Seal Ring)
112-184-0261 (Seal Ring)

Tool's:
46mm socket (Very hard to find at stores, Had to ask my buddy at a shop to barrow it)
1/2" socket wrench
Extension Pipe (for better leverage when taking the bolt off)
T30 socket bit
1/4" socket wrench
1/4" socket extension
lot of rags
Needle nose pliers

I have attached the PDF files to make it easier.
 

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#2 ·
pic. step by step

pictures say it all.
 

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M
#15 ·
oil cooler leaking !!!!!!

DETANE said:
pictures say it all.
Click to expand...
Hello there i hope u can help me decice of what i need.. ok i replaced the bottom seal of the housing but its leaking from the side where the cooler is but i kinda striped the left top bolt so im wondering do i buy the oil cooler and housing or do i replace the side seals and use a bigger bolt for that side :confused::confused:
 
#3 ·
more//
 

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T
#89 ·
Fantastic write-up and photos - really appreciate it. My 1999 ML430 stated this issue about 170K. I was able to do the job in 30min. Be prepared for oil spill/ leak as you disassemble. The gaskets are available as a set for low as $15 (not sure about the quality).
 
#6 ·
great job DETANE . I had the same leak several weeks ago .
But I also repleaced oil cooler , because it didn't work right .
This leak was pin in the ass to find out . Took me 2 days , and many time cleaning engine front before I found it .
I like your new car details
 
#10 ·
Im not sure about the cooler. But i do know the 320's Oil Filter housing unit has no bottom seal. It is actually connected to the engine.
 
M
#11 · (Edited)
Great job Detane on this thread. This is the same oil leak that I am having as well. I have fixed three leaks in the past two month, oil pan gasket, rear main seal and the 13 pin adapter on the tranny. This is the last one I hope, going to the dealer to pick up the three seals needed to do this task. What is the torque spec on the 46 mm bolt?
 
M
#12 ·
I changed the three seals today. I took out the oil canister nut with a 1-13/16 socket instead of the 46 mm one. It was hard to find the 46mm and the 1-13/16 is the same but in inches. I removed the secondary air pump to have more clearance in getting the bottom screw out of the oil cooler to the canister. Thank you Detane for the detail pictures....
 
#14 ·
Insane. I changed spark plugs last night...removing the Drivers wheel to get in there...I found about a quart of oily nastiness all over the bottom of the truck. TERRIBLE. Bottom of the motor was spotless...so it's dripping from the top...I'm guessing the same issue. Mine however is a 2000 ML320.
 
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M
#16 · (Edited)
Mecka,
If you stripped it, then Heli-Coil the hole. If it is the top right, be extra carefull because you can run into the oil canister. If you are not confident in doing this task, buy one on eBay. I see that you are a first time user, right your vehicle info in your profile.....
 
J
#17 ·
Oil Cooler

I too stripped a hole (lower bolt if I recall correctly) which is easy to do given the soft aluminum material. What I ended up doing is simply tapping the next size hole (I think I went next "inch" size or 2 larger than the metric with a thread forming screw. If I recall correctly, for one or more of the holes you could actually use a nut, although it would be somewhat challenging to get it into place. I did this almost 30,000 miles ago with no problems.

I do think the trick to this repair is to completely disconnect the oil cooler assembly via the 2 coolant lines, remove the big honking nut at the bottom of the filter housing and remove the complete assembly. Good luck.
 
#23 ·
The job went smooth, Took about an hour and saved alot of money! Thanks for all the great details! However it seems I still have a leak and I believe it is the power steering pump, I have replaced the reservoir and o ring and it seems to still be leaking, I guess I am going to have to replace the pump to solve this problem. Any suggestions guys?
 
#27 ·
Hey Noodles and 43sqd......... Took it to yet another deal for the recall Once Again and they replaced the house that leads to the radiator for the 3rd time. That makes 2 hoses and a clamp. My fingers are crossed that the leak has ceased or at least until I can afford to trade it for a truck.
 
#29 ·
I am not sure at all after the ordeal that I have been through with this! However, I am 100% Sure this dealer put a new hose and new clamps on it this time! Do you recommend a good engine bath and what do you recommend for a DIY job? I used a citrus based degreaser when I did this oil seal job, but not sure if that is good for the whole engine bay.
 
R
#32 ·
Good to know.

I just changed mine so I doubt I will get a set. So far so good on the new gaskets, no leaks. I stripped the top left (back) bolt but I left it be as soon as I could feel it slipping. It seems to be holding.
 
J
#34 ·
Stick with OEM gaskets

JadedFury - hope your experience with the AutoHaus gaskets will be better than mine. Followed your link and ordered them. Definitely felt good about saving $ vs dealership. Until I saw another oil leak under the car!

Long story short - finally broke down and paid the dealership price (total bill $70) pulled out the AutoHaus gaskets - visually compared them and the Autohaus gaskets (made in China btw) were thinner. Circumference was ok, but the 2 smaller gaskets were definitely thinner. Put in OEM gaskets, leak is gone.

So, as usual on the internet, buyer beware.
 
J
#39 · (Edited)
If anyone wants to buy a 46mm (3/4" drive) socket to removing the oil filter body/housing to replace the leaky o-rings, I have one that was used ONCE (well, actually twice ....once to remove and once to install)! $10, plus actual freight. It will go at the 2# rate.

Update: 5/15/2012 SOLD
 
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