[Deplore]

Unfortunately not a joke. This can be done, but only loosening it. Also potential for the gears to skip is very high.

I don't use this method. Just one of many ways.

 

[peterjmdr]

I have some updates about my 2013 E 350.
I have successfully installed the replacement camshaft adjuster for the intake ( Left/bank 2), and I discovered that the exhaust adjuster was two teeth out of time (advanced ). I removed the exhaust adjuster and corrected the timing per WIS images of correct timing setup at 40 degrees after TDC overlap on the crank pulley.
I decided to check bank 1 and removed the front cover. The intake cam was spot on but the exhaust adjuster was one tooth advanced.
I then rotated the crank to 56 degrees after TDC , removed all four CPS’s and photographed the view in each bore hole of the pulse wheel segments.
I will upload those photos as well as the other timing setup of the sprockets.
In conclusion I am now concerned about the tone wheel positioning for just the exhaust cams. I measured bank 2 at 2mm retarded and bank 1 at 1mm retarded. However, if I were to go through the pain of adjusting the timing of the bank 1 exhaust cam , the tone wheel for bank 1 exhaust would become 2mm retarded.
The tone wheels are fixed as they should be. I cannot rotate any of them. The adjusters are all fixed except I had slight play with B2/intake when the chain was off. My understanding is that slight play is normal . There is no abnormal noises, or popping sounds, or oil puking when I rotate the engine. Everything seems smooth as I rotate the engine.
I have never had a CEL light up, nor any codes stored for bank 1, and the car runs great, excellent power, idles great, no misfires . Only issue has been cold start rattle lasting 2-3 seconds then all good.
Any thoughts are welcomed.

 

[Rickman30]

Also I found a lot of carbon accumulation in my intakes at 126K. Taking time to clean those valves that are closed. Will do the others once I can rotate the engine again.

What are you using to clean with. I know there is a tool to use shop air, vacuum, and walnut media. I'd hate to buy all that for one time use.

 

[Rickman30]

I have some updates about my 2013 E 350.
I have successfully installed the replacement camshaft adjuster for the intake ( Left/bank 2), and I discovered that the exhaust adjuster was two teeth out of time (advanced ). I removed the exhaust adjuster and corrected the timing per WIS images of correct timing setup at 40 degrees after TDC overlap on the crank pulley.
I decided to check bank 1 and removed the front cover. The intake cam was spot on but the exhaust adjuster was one tooth advanced.
I then rotated the crank to 56 degrees after TDC , removed all four CPS’s and photographed the view in each bore hole of the pulse wheel segments.
I will upload those photos as well as the other timing setup of the sprockets.
In conclusion I am now concerned about the tone wheel positioning for just the exhaust cams. I measured bank 2 at 2mm retarded and bank 1 at 1mm retarded. However, if I were to go through the pain of adjusting the timing of the bank 1 exhaust cam , the tone wheel for bank 1 exhaust would become 2mm retarded.
The tone wheels are fixed as they should be. I cannot rotate any of them. The adjusters are all fixed except I had slight play with B2/intake when the chain was off. My understanding is that slight play is normal . There is no abnormal noises, or popping sounds, or oil puking when I rotate the engine. Everything seems smooth as I rotate the engine.
I have never had a CEL light up, nor any codes stored for bank 1, and the car runs great, excellent power, idles great, no misfires . Only issue has been cold start rattle lasting 2-3 seconds then all good.
Any thoughts are welcomed.

I read that if looking at cam position through cam sensor holes, one being off should be a sign of chain stretch. Not sure if that's an issue in your case, just a thought.

 

[Rickman30]

My 2013, E 350 (58,000 miles) needs replacement of the left (bank 2), intake camshaft adjuster. By the way, I have already installed the recommended oil check valves in the engine block, and new chain tensioners for both banks during a prior project to address cold start engine rattle. I did not have evidence of a camshaft adjuster issue at that time. I now have a trouble code for bank 2 ( left) intake only. Trouble code is P002177. There is also a 2-3 second cold start rattle then the engine purrs like normal. Other than that there are no additional codes and the car runs great. I have seen a brief video and read two other brief forum statements that this repair can be done by front cover removal without involving the valve cover. I am planning to remove the plastic bulkhead, front cover, and vacuum pump on the rear so that I can access both ends of the camshaft.
I have concerns however.
#1: If I need more room in the rear, how difficult is it to remove the firewall insulation
#2: Is it safe to apply torque to loosen or tighten the center valve at the front while a helper applies counter-torque at the rear of the camshaft (using torx 60 bit/breaker bar). The torque spec for the center valve calls for 130 Nm, and I don’t want to risk damaging the bearing surfaces on either the intake camshaft or the valve cover.
I know the service manual calls for valve cover removal and use of lockdown bars.
I also plan to carefully mark the the existing adjuster, chain and reference point on block prior to removal, so that I can transfer the mark to the new adjuster, and accurately install and verify correct position of the new adjuster. I plan to rotate the engine at least two revolutions to confirm correct timing and double check the specified pulse wheel views (for intake and exhaust) through the position sensor windows per the service manual.
One final question: for the left bank is it easier to remove and install the chain tensioner using 40 degrees after ignition TDC vs. 40 degrees after overlap TDC?
In other words is there more slack from the rail adjuster and thus more wiggle room to get the tension either out or back in ( of course, I will compress the plunger on the tension and insert the pin to hold the plunger prior to re-installing)
Thanks in advance for your replies!

I'm not getting a code, I wonder, if this could be observed on scan data or a lab scope to see if cam adjuster is in fact failing, I get the noise, but no codes. If I were to hook my Modis to both cam sensors and recorded the position during cold startup, I could use number one spark as a reference point. If I still had access to alldata I'm sure a known good waveform is there, or just rely on the waveform after the noise is gone to compare with. I may look into that, I'm certain the tensioners need attention, may need check valves, build date on the car is 06/13, so...

 

[Deplore]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

 

[Rickman30]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

View attachment 2793212

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

View attachment 2793213

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

Ah, thank you, could never really get as clear and to the point explanation as this. All I got was "Sets a code first" and I'm not getting that at all. It's doesn't seem to as loud most of the time like tensioner lost prime, but every once and a while this, seem when I set up my sound transmitters, nothing, then out of the blue, there it is. Turning by hand should eliminate oil pressure preventing failure, I'm hoping at least. would like to nail this down. Thanks again.

 

[peterjmdr]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

View attachment 2793212

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

View attachment 2793213

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

Intake Cam Adjuster/Left bank is faulty. Appears that the internal locking pin is jumping out out its niche due to wear of both the pin and the niche, thus allowing the sprocket to turn relative to the center valve/bolt. The metal is too soft. Some third parties have kits to repair the adjuster on select Mercedes engines with a hardened metal plate and other components of this mechanism.

 

[peterjmdr]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

View attachment 2793212

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

View attachment 2793213

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

View attachment 2793212

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

View attachment 2793213

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

I finally finished my 2013 M276. It really was a bear. Never had to remove the valve cover, thank god.
Only expensive part was the Left bank/intake adjuster. The engine now has new secondary chain tensioners (both banks), and check valves installed ( both banks). This project got started when the cold start rattle began. I have now been driving it daily for about a month: no rattle, no CEL, excellent, smooth startup, excellent mileage, excellent power. What a relief. Still patting myself on the back for doing this repair myself. I wrote quite a bit about my repair earlier in this thread if you care to read it.

 

[Deplore]

On the early NA M276, it's really easy to remove the valve cover, there's so much less bullshit around the car. Yeah, you can do it without removing the valve cover and just change adjusters through the window -- I did it a few times -- but when the valve cover is so easy to pull off, it's worth it for the peace of mind due to how much of a pain in the ass the job is and if you make a mistake misaligning the timing marks or put the marking off by 1 teeth in either direction. Also with the valve cover off, you can be 100% sure that the camshaft itself is timed correctly. You view the timing mark on the back of the camshaft pulse wheel, they need to be aligned with the cylinder head surface on both side, then you install the adjuster and torque it.

See the blue marks on the adjuster that lines up with the cylinder head? That's the timing mark for the camshaft, which I also marked on the back of the camshaft. This is how I verified that both the camshaft and adjusters were on time. It's a quite stressful job.

On later M276 and M278 that are turbocharged, and both variants with air to air intercooler and water to air intercooler are bigger pain in the ass. Then I would understand not wanting to remove the valve covers.

Either way, congrats on the job. It's a big one.

 

[Rickman30]

Intake Cam Adjuster/Left bank is faulty. Appears that the internal locking pin is jumping out out its niche due to wear of both the pin and the niche, thus allowing the sprocket to turn relative to the center valve/bolt. The metal is too soft. Some third parties have kits to repair the adjuster on select Mercedes engines with a hardened metal plate and other components of this mechanism.

Thanks, yes, noise is coming from bank 2. Can't seem to find the rebuild kits, mentioned, and seem to be having trouble just finding the correct one for my car 2014 E350 M276.952 says discontinued, and aftermarket shows zip for that one only. I'd hate to put chineseum in it.

 

[Deplore]

Just buy one from dealer. They're $500 or so.

 

[Rickman30]

Just buy one from dealer. They're $500 or so.

Not for my engine it seems, was quoted more than twice that if they could get it, as he thinks it's discontinued. Really love the car

 

[Deplore]

???? Post VIN. I was able to buy two adjusters for a 2017 C43 couple days ago. They definitely have them.

 

[bdunigan1]

Am following as my 2016 E350 92k has just started to rattle at cold start. I noticed in an earlier post that part numbers 2780503600 & 2780505100 (Peterjmdr, 7/22)
were being discussed. If I am correct, this thread is dealing with the M276 V6 engine and I believe the '278' adjusters are for the V8. Are they interchangeable? Will the '278' adjuster work on the M276 engine? My EIS shows 276050**** as the prefix for the M276 adjusters. TIA.

 

[peterjmdr]

Am following as my 2016 E350 92k has just started to rattle at cold start. I noticed in an earlier post that part numbers 2780503600 & 2780505100 (Peterjmdr, 7/22)
were being discussed. If I am correct, this thread is dealing with the M276 V6 engine and I believe the '278' adjusters are for the V8. Are they interchangeable? Will the '278' adjuster work on the M276 engine? My EIS shows 276050**** as the prefix for the M276 adjusters. TIA.

My error on the part number for the M276.
Should have been prefix 276…

 

[bdunigan1]

Many thanks for your quick reply!

 

[peterjmdr]

Many thanks for your quick reply!

How far along are you?

 

[bdunigan1]

Not far. I just removed the driver's side cam cover and have been rotating the engine. No clicks or visible jumps. Marked the adjuster and the marks stay even. My chain tensioner, however, seems faulty. Upon removal, it didn't slide easily and felt rough as I exercised it. New CT going in for now and I hope that resolves the matter. However, I do understand my cold start rattle may come back as it did for others. My '16 has the updated tensioner and check valve which causes me to worry about the cam adjuster but the tensioner seems to be bad (on visual and manual inspection). 92k, oil changed every 5k with Mobil1 5W-40. Mostly highway miles. In fact, averaged 28mpg over the last 60k miles. Will report back. Thanks.

 

[bdunigan1]

Chain tensioner replaced. Left car out in the cold for a week and no rattle on cold start. Hope I have nailed it.