[Kroniqphelps]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

View attachment 2793212

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

View attachment 2793213

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

Good day. I am not getting any codes on my 14’ W212 with 116k. Production was 5/13 and engine number is after the check valves and tensioner fixes. I get the rattle and sometimes the engine shakes and it feels like it’s about to stall. I get that once I start the car again after a drive to work. I been trying to get it on video but everytime I’m recording it never happens lol. I suppose with no codes, this is where I should start? Make a marking like with the white marker and turn by hand about 10 times to and listen/inspect any deviation or jump? Thanks for any tips

 

[Deplore]

Pretty much, yeah.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Pretty much, yeah.

and i would need the sealant and new screws to put back over the covers when i do so? just making sure i have everything before i go in there.

 

[Deplore]

Only new sealant. You can reuse the aluminum bolt, just do not torque them. Specification is what, 5 nm? 40 in lb? Their job is to just hold the timing cover, the sealant is going to do the rest of the job. So don't go hulk on it, you can shear off the bolt.

Drilling out aluminum is NOT fun.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Only new sealant. You can reuse the aluminum bolt, just do not torque them. Specification is what, 5 nm? 40 in lb? Their job is to just hold the timing cover, the sealant is going to do the rest of the job. So don't go hulk on it, you can shear off the bolt.

Drilling out aluminum is NOT fun.

Copy. Will tackle this job this week and update. Thank you

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Only new sealant. You can reuse the aluminum bolt, just do not torque them. Specification is what, 5 nm? 40 in lb? Their job is to just hold the timing cover, the sealant is going to do the rest of the job. So don't go hulk on it, you can shear off the bolt.

Drilling out aluminum is NOT fun.

btw i saw a youtube video about changing the cam adjuster in 1 hour by this guy. is this really possibly as long as marking a few things? and putting the sealant at the right place obivously lol i posted the link to the video

 

[Deplore]

Yup, I've done that. But it is NOT a 1 hour job. It's a very fiddly and difficult job to do. That little hook tool at 1:19? Absolutely essential. Also you need something like 6 hands with hulk strength to do it, and two T100 adapters.

Would I keep doing it this method? Yes, with the understanding that it takes way longer than whatever you think or estimate. You would also need to buy a new adjuster valve (the t100 bolt in middle) because 50% of the time, when you remove the bolt, the camshaft springs to one side immediately and breaks the adjuster valve.

Basically, removing the valve and removing the camshaft adjuster takes maybe 10 mins, if that. Installing it back on and lining it up -- and keeping the chain on mark while you torque it and install the timing chain tensioner? Now that is a 4 hour job. Once you remove the adjuster, the timing jumps immediately, it's still under tension. That's why it shows them marking everything on both side of the camshaft adjusters, because you're lining the marks on BOTH adjusters just so you won't have bent valves.

It's hard to put in words, this is something that you have to experience firsthand to understand why this job is so annoying....and despite being this level of annoying, it's still way better than having to do it the "official" way.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Yup, I've done that. But it is NOT a 1 hour job. It's a very fiddly and difficult job to do. That little hook tool at 1:19? Absolutely essential. Also you need something like 6 hands with hulk strength to do it, and two T100 adapters.

Would I keep doing it this method? Yes, with the understanding that it takes way longer than whatever you think or estimate. You would also need to buy a new adjuster valve (the t100 bolt in middle) because 50% of the time, when you remove the bolt, the camshaft springs to one side immediately and breaks the adjuster valve.

Basically, removing the valve and removing the camshaft adjuster takes maybe 10 mins, if that. Installing it back on and lining it up -- and keeping the chain on mark while you torque it and install the timing chain tensioner? Now that is a 4 hour job. Once you remove the adjuster, the timing jumps immediately, it's still under tension. That's why it shows them marking everything on both side of the camshaft adjusters, because you're lining the marks on BOTH adjusters just so you won't have bent valves.

It's hard to put in words, this is something that you have to experience firsthand to understand why this job is so annoying....and despite being this level of annoying, it's still way better than having to do it the "official" way.

6 hands with hulk strength to remove what?? the adjuster valve? Im trying to do this job most likely by myself with maybe a little help with the few hours my helping hand has to spare. If its the cam adjuster, what would be the best approach? I have been watching different videos and I think maybe you have the best approach with the help I have.

 

[Deplore]

6 hands and hulk strength to install the adjuster. Notice at 1:12, the guy installing the adjuster has a helper holding the other camshaft? There's a reason for that, because if he lets go, the camshaft moves and the markings go off.

You also need the strength because even if you install the adjuster, line it up perfectly on the marks (on both side), you still can't let go until the tensioner is installed, because if you let go, the chain jumps timing again. Those valve springs and the adjuster springs are seriously strong.

Then on top of that, you need more than 2 hands because one will have to hold the engine by the crankshaft (if you dont and you try to torque the adjuster valve, the engine will spin instead). Then two hands to hold both adjusters, other hand for a flashlight while you torque it.

Again, not easy to describe. It has to be experienced to be understood.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

6 hands and hulk strength to install the adjuster. Notice at 1:12, the guy installing the adjuster has a helper holding the other camshaft? There's a reason for that, because if he lets go, the camshaft moves and the markings go off.

You also need the strength because even if you install the adjuster, line it up perfectly on the marks (on both side), you still can't let go until the tensioner is installed, because if you let go, the chain jumps timing again. Those valve springs and the adjuster springs are seriously strong.

Then on top of that, you need more than 2 hands because one will have to hold the engine by the crankshaft (if you dont and you try to torque the adjuster valve, the engine will spin instead). Then two hands to hold both adjusters, other hand for a flashlight while you torque it.

Again, not easy to describe. It has to be experienced to be understood.

Let’s say the chain jumps timing, I would just have to line up the markings on the chain and adjuster to get it back to correct timing? Or is it more critical? This method seems easier but more riskier. If I were to remove the intake and have someone counter hold in the back of the cam, would I achieve the results without needing to hold the cam from the front and needing 6 hands with hulk strength? I don’t mind spending extra time to avoid as much error as possible

 

[Kroniqphelps]

If the tensioner was to be stuck would I get a code along with the same symptoms?

 

[Kroniqphelps]

6 hands and hulk strength to install the adjuster. Notice at 1:12, the guy installing the adjuster has a helper holding the other camshaft? There's a reason for that, because if he lets go, the camshaft moves and the markings go off.

You also need the strength because even if you install the adjuster, line it up perfectly on the marks (on both side), you still can't let go until the tensioner is installed, because if you let go, the chain jumps timing again. Those valve springs and the adjuster springs are seriously strong.

Then on top of that, you need more than 2 hands because one will have to hold the engine by the crankshaft (if you dont and you try to torque the adjuster valve, the engine will spin instead). Then two hands to hold both adjusters, other hand for a flashlight while you torque it.

Again, not easy to describe. It has to be experienced to be understood.

finally caught it on video. Let me know what it sounds like. Today it sounds a little different. Less shakey on the engine. Link below

 

[peterjmdr]

If the tensioner was to be stuck would I get a code along with the same symptoms?

I highly recommend that you counter hold the rear of the camshaft while you are removing the old cam adjuster and re-installing the new part.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

I highly recommend that you counter hold the rear of the camshaft while you are removing the old cam adjuster and re-installing the new part.

I can have that done by my helper. Today I remove the cam sensors and look into the 3 holes at 53 degrees on the crank. I don’t have intake gaskets right now so I won’t be removing it to inspect the 4th hole but I’ll post what I find from the 3 for now and order gaskets. Should I be getting the green gaskets or the orange ones?

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Should I also be turning off ECO unroll problem is fixed? Don’t need any extra starts lol

 

[peterjmdr]

I highly recommend that you counter hold the rear of the camshaft while you are removing the old cam adjuster and re-installing the new part.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

View attachment 2804667

So look down cam holes at 53 degrees, verify markings inside. Whichever one is off, mark current timing on chain and adjuster and on cam opening to ensure the chain goes back on the correct tooth on the adjuster, then change adjuster by counter holding with t60 in the back and then try to remove the valve with hulk strength. Replace with new valve and adjuster with the verified timing marks on new one from the old one and torque down to specs? This way keeps timing in order. Correct?

 

[peterjmdr]

So look down cam holes at 53 degrees, verify markings inside. Whichever one is off, mark current timing on chain and adjuster and on cam opening to ensure the chain goes back on the correct tooth on the adjuster, then change adjuster by counter holding with t60 in the back and then try to remove the valve with hulk strength. Replace with new valve and adjuster with the verified timing marks on new one from the old one and torque down to specs? This way keeps timing in order. Correct?

There are two primary timing checks:

Are you familiar with the following timing setup from the M276 service manual. This is what you should see at 40 degrees after TDC/OVERLAP

 

[peterjmdr]

There are two primary timing checks:

Are you familiar with the following timing setup from the M276 service manual. This is what you should see at 40 degrees after TDC/OVERLAP
View attachment 2804669
View attachment 2804669

#2) You must then roll the engine clockwise until you are at 53 degrees after TDC. That means from step 1 you will pass 53 degrees then continue to roll the engine until you arrive again at 53 degrees. You are now at 53 degrees after TDC. What you should see through each of the four bore holes ( camshaft position sensors live in these bore holes) is the following:

 

[peterjmdr]

By the way, Kroniqphelps , does your scanner allow you to select specifically for Mercedes Benz? If you can redo your scan specifically for Mercedes Benz and check for any stored camshaft position codes