[Deplore]

Good plan of attack, that should cover pretty much everything.

One thing to note, make sure its the adjuster that is the problem and not the camshaft itself. The pulse wheels on the camshaft is merely pressed in, and unfortunately it can shift and rotate freely from the actual camshaft.

I found out the hard way.....3 times.

Use ebay pictures or otherwise online pictures to verify that the pulse wheels are roughly in the same position. If so, then just replacing adjusters will fix the problem once and for all.

 

[Deplore]

Unfortunately not a joke. This can be done, but only loosening it. Also potential for the gears to skip is very high.

I don't use this method. Just one of many ways.

 

[Deplore]

If you're getting the noise but not the code, then you have a bad camshaft adjuster.

Really easy way to test is to take off the timing cover so the camshaft adjusters are exposed, then draw a mark on the adjuster valve and adjuster, then spin the engine by hand a few times.

Eventually the side with bad adjuster will jump right before your eye.

Here's an example, observe the white marks on the valve and adjusters:

These sets are good. I spun the engine 8 to 12 times. No noise, the adjuster solenoid valve kept track with the adjuster.

Can you spot it? This was only after 3 revolutions. At more revolutions, the marks would keep jumping forward, and you'd actually see it with your eyes.

 

[Deplore]

On the early NA M276, it's really easy to remove the valve cover, there's so much less bullshit around the car. Yeah, you can do it without removing the valve cover and just change adjusters through the window -- I did it a few times -- but when the valve cover is so easy to pull off, it's worth it for the peace of mind due to how much of a pain in the ass the job is and if you make a mistake misaligning the timing marks or put the marking off by 1 teeth in either direction. Also with the valve cover off, you can be 100% sure that the camshaft itself is timed correctly. You view the timing mark on the back of the camshaft pulse wheel, they need to be aligned with the cylinder head surface on both side, then you install the adjuster and torque it.

See the blue marks on the adjuster that lines up with the cylinder head? That's the timing mark for the camshaft, which I also marked on the back of the camshaft. This is how I verified that both the camshaft and adjusters were on time. It's a quite stressful job.

On later M276 and M278 that are turbocharged, and both variants with air to air intercooler and water to air intercooler are bigger pain in the ass. Then I would understand not wanting to remove the valve covers.

Either way, congrats on the job. It's a big one.

 

[Deplore]

Just buy one from dealer. They're $500 or so.

 

[Deplore]

???? Post VIN. I was able to buy two adjusters for a 2017 C43 couple days ago. They definitely have them.

 

[Deplore]

Pretty much, yeah.

 

[Deplore]

Only new sealant. You can reuse the aluminum bolt, just do not torque them. Specification is what, 5 nm? 40 in lb? Their job is to just hold the timing cover, the sealant is going to do the rest of the job. So don't go hulk on it, you can shear off the bolt.

Drilling out aluminum is NOT fun.

 

[Deplore]

Yup, I've done that. But it is NOT a 1 hour job. It's a very fiddly and difficult job to do. That little hook tool at 1:19? Absolutely essential. Also you need something like 6 hands with hulk strength to do it, and two T100 adapters.

Would I keep doing it this method? Yes, with the understanding that it takes way longer than whatever you think or estimate. You would also need to buy a new adjuster valve (the t100 bolt in middle) because 50% of the time, when you remove the bolt, the camshaft springs to one side immediately and breaks the adjuster valve.

Basically, removing the valve and removing the camshaft adjuster takes maybe 10 mins, if that. Installing it back on and lining it up -- and keeping the chain on mark while you torque it and install the timing chain tensioner? Now that is a 4 hour job. Once you remove the adjuster, the timing jumps immediately, it's still under tension. That's why it shows them marking everything on both side of the camshaft adjusters, because you're lining the marks on BOTH adjusters just so you won't have bent valves.

It's hard to put in words, this is something that you have to experience firsthand to understand why this job is so annoying....and despite being this level of annoying, it's still way better than having to do it the "official" way.

 

[Deplore]

6 hands and hulk strength to install the adjuster. Notice at 1:12, the guy installing the adjuster has a helper holding the other camshaft? There's a reason for that, because if he lets go, the camshaft moves and the markings go off.

You also need the strength because even if you install the adjuster, line it up perfectly on the marks (on both side), you still can't let go until the tensioner is installed, because if you let go, the chain jumps timing again. Those valve springs and the adjuster springs are seriously strong.

Then on top of that, you need more than 2 hands because one will have to hold the engine by the crankshaft (if you dont and you try to torque the adjuster valve, the engine will spin instead). Then two hands to hold both adjusters, other hand for a flashlight while you torque it.

Again, not easy to describe. It has to be experienced to be understood.

 

[Deplore]

As long as the car starts right up, and does not throw any codes for the cam/crank correlation, then you've fixed the problem.

Have a C43, GL450 and S450 in for camshafts. All on bank 1 intake.

 

[Deplore]

A few, yes. Every single one with bad cam had the pulse wheel shift.

 

[Deplore]

Something like 90%>

 

[Deplore]

Did you connect toe PCV hose correctly? It's the long hose from the PCV at the back of the engine that connects all the way to the attachment next to throttle body.

 

[Deplore]

What about the purge valve hose? If I were you, I'd remove the intake manifold and reinstall, pay attention to the gaskets.

 

[Deplore]

What exactly did you do? I thought you removed intake manifold.

 

[Deplore]

Yes, that would do it. Unmetered air past the MAF sensor will cause all kind of weird shit.

 

[Deplore]

Report back once you've replaced the gasket.

 

[Deplore]

Are they broken?

 

[Deplore]

Keep prying. I hope you marked the chains on the other side, because the moment it comes loose, chain will jump.