OK - here is what you need..

Ref a/c drier location. There are 2 designs and I guess that you have the earlier arrangement. Both are included below.

Note the plugs for sealing the lines during the job to keep out moisture. I guess that you can DIY here.

 

Thank you!

It does look like I have the dryer on the driver side.

How does one remove the top portion though? It looks like one needs a special tool... And it says don't open on the top of it..lol

thanks,
-Nigel

 

How does one remove the top portion though? It looks like one needs a special tool... And it says don't open on the top of it..lol

Don't open it, if you are not replacing the cartridge.

Ref the tool. See step 4. That refers to the special socket shown at the bottom of the page, and the torque required when refitting the plug.

Can you find something in your toolbox that fits this size?

 

Welp I got the special tool, found it on ebay for $20 so I got that down covered now.

JUST pulled out the AC compressor.. talk about a PITA...lol


Could I ask ONE more favor.. how much r134a is required to refill the system? I read something just shy of 3 full cans of normal r134a? Is this correct? And roughly 7-8oz of PAG46 oil.

Thanks again!

-Nigel

 

Hopefully, someone who has done this can be specific here. My WIS is short of information on quantities for the a/c system. However, for a complete refill, I would expect:

1. At least two 12oz (340g) cans of R134a refrigerant.
2. The lubricant is more tricky as you will have some already distributed around the system.

My WIS says "Pour the quantity of oil drained from the removed refrigerant compressor, plus an additional 20cc into the new refrigerant compresssor". Can you remember how much oil was in the old compressor? You may have to make an educated guess here...

There are loads of a/c re-charging procedures on the net . Here is one of them. How to Recharge Your Car's Air Conditioner

 

I tried to drain out what was in the old compressor and only about a spoon full came out IF that...

I just drained the new compressor and I pulled out 100ml from it via from the factory.

hmmmmm

Still looking on this...lol

-Nigel

 

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Attached:

-Nigel

 

The A/C compressor in my 03 CLK55 recently died a horrible death. What tips or procedures can you give me to make this repair smoother? Any tips and/or information you provide me is much appreciated. The compressor, dryer insert, Schrader valve inserts, O-ring kit and expansion valve have been ordered.

Thanks in advance.

 

It's a tight fit...lol

Seriously you will spend more time removing little things around the compressor then pulling the old compressor and removing it from the bottom than anything else. It's definitely not a hard install by any means. Just everything is tight. You will need to remove the front bumper, and lower trim. I removed the driver side fender well as that helps greatly. Other than that, how did it die? Is there metal in the system? If so I would change the condenser as well, since you are replacing everything else. I believe the OEM condenser I got from Amazon cost $80, cheap in terms of everything considering.

See my thread here with pictures:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c20...ms/c209-a209-clk-class/2147378-2005-clk320-making-whining-noise-possibly-3.html

-Nigel

 

Nigel, I finally replaced the condenser, but I created one more problem. I thought I put the upper tie bar back nicely, but somehow when I closed the hood, I couldn't open it again. I pulled the red latch inside car and it sounded like it opened it, but when I lift the latch under the hood, it didn't open. Is there a way to open this hood manually? Thank you so much.

 

It was a fast progression from working fine to dead. Initially it started by blowing warm air when the A/C was turned on then after 2-3 minutes the A/C would blow cold and work normally. It progressed to the point on warm days the A/C would only blow warm air. One day the compressor started making screeching noises (like dry metal on metal) which progressed to making really loud knocking noise like a spun rod or crank bearing. Initially, I thought the engine had spun a main bearing even though the motor was just idling. The knocking sounded like someone was smacking the case with a 5lb. ball-peen hammer at a regular interval. The knocking did not increase with engine RPM.

Removed the accessory belt, all pulleys are tight and rotate smooth and free except for the A/C compressor pulley. The A/C pulley has about 3-5mm of movement and makes crunching noise when it is spun. It seems like a ball bearing is out of the bearing cage causing movement. Can not verify if the compressor shaft will rotate, however the system is still holding pressure.

Installed a A/C compressor bypass drive belt all other systems are functioning normally.
The packaging of the engine accessories is very compact with precious little space. It would be easier if the whole engine was removed to replace the A/C compressor since it is on the bottom. It looks like the A/C compressor will come out through the driver side fender well.

Although the parts have been purchased still not convinced I will make the repairs. The removal of the A/C compressor still has me undecided. I will have to take to service tech to recover the refrigerant before the system is disassembled. Any words of encouragement, photos, tips, unique procedures are greatly appreciated. I have tackled most other automotive systems the A/C system is unchartered territory for me.

 

Not sure what other things you've done on cars but I can assure you that it isn't a hard job. Just time consuming because of crampness, you will spend more time undoing one bolt just so you can move a hose to be able to get an inch or two to be able to remove X part or Y part.. Definitely agree raising the engine would make the job easier, but it can be done. Mind you I have a mid lift in my garage so I might be thinking it was easier than what it COULD have been if the car was on jack stands. If the car was ONLY on jack stands then I might be singing a different tune and have taken it to someone.. I'm cheap though and most "manual" labor I am ok with doing as long as I don't have other pressing things on the table.

As far as the r134a gas in the system, though it's illegal to just "vent" it in the air, that is what I did in my garage. I like the environment but at the same time paying a shop to suck it out at $150 was silly to me. I have the vacuum pump and ac gauges so pulling a vacuum and then waiting to see if it held, then filling the system was not hard at all. Took about 40 minutes to do not counting the hour I had it at the vacuum and left to make sure it held.

If you do not have these tools then it might be worth while to take it to a shop. I do know that I was quoted almost 2k to change the AC compressor/condenser and orings along with misc things such as filling/vacuum the system. I think I paid $200 for the new ac compressor, $80 for the condenser and $30, for the pag oil and r134a. So I saved about $1700 doing it myself and was just out a weekend doing it.

-Nigel

 

I am also frugal (cheap!) most mechanical tasks are not beyond my skill set. I do not have all the special tools or a lift to facilitate my repairs so I have to do strategic planning to accomplish bigger and more complicated jobs. As you already know all the new parts required were less than $500.00 so the majority of the job is for labor. Labor I can provide, I just need to know about rough spots and pitfalls I am not aware of. I really just want to ensure the repair is done correctly the first time.

Thank you for the information.

 

Hi Nigel, I am replacing my ac compressor for the CLK320 2005. What do I need to remove before I can get the compressor out? Thank you so much.

 

To remove the compressor.
1. Discharge refrigerant..
2 . Disconnect negative battery cable.
3.Remove drive belt.
4. Remove air cleaner intake tube from above.
5. Unplug clutch wiring harness. Disconnect refrigerant lines.
6. Unbolt compressor from the bracket and remove it.

 

You'll have lift the car, remove the front road wheels and the fender shrouds to access the hood locks and manually disengage them.

 

Rodney, Thank you so much for your quick response. I appreciated it very much.

 

No guarantee but on various other cars I have had success by having one person push down on the hood,a quick sudden push,at the same time as the release lever is pulled by a second person.
Worth a try perhaps.

 

Thank you Benzyle. I tried your method and still didn't do it.When I pulled the red latch under the dash, the hood on the driver side did open, but the one on the passenger side still stucked.

 

Hi everyone, when I turn on the AC in my 2005 clk320, it sounds like a jet engine. It goes back to normal when I turn the AC off. Is this normal? Thank you.

 

Is it blowing hot air out of the defroster vents? Mine just started this too.

Jim

 

Jim, I actually don't know yet. I just replaced the condenser with new receiver drier and had only half can of freon in when I had problem with the hood latch. I couldn't add more freon in because the hood is locked down. However, with only about 6oz of freon, the air was not warm when I turned on the a/c. I'll post more when I can add more freon in the system.

 

Thank you so much rudeney. Your comment made me feel good because I thought that the a/c compressor went bad too.

 

Thanks to Rudeney for his comment, I was able to open the hood and add more freon to the car. I added altogether one and a half (12 oz) cans and it is pretty cold so I stopped. I got a very small leak when I did the vacuuming, but I don't mind to add more freon for each summer time. The engine sounds like a jet when I turn on the a/c, but only if I step outside and stand next to the hood. I guess this is the way they designed this type of car.

 

Hi everyone, My front fog lamps quit working this week. I checked the bulbs and they are ok. Can you tell me if there are fuses or relays that I need to check? Thank you so much.

 

Fog lights (like all lights) have no fuse - they are controlled by the SAM. Check the wiring harness (especially if CLK500/550 - there are two connectors) as they are prone to corrosion.

 

Nigel do you still have the old compressor? Does it have a 7mm end shaft or the end shaft that’s flat on two sides?

 

Sorry don't have the compressor. Threw that out years ago when I replaced it with the new one. Then shortly after sold the car to my friend :-(

-Nigel

 

I have a 2005 clk320 convertible and plan to replace the AC compressor. Can I remove it from top under the hood without jacking the car? Thank you.