ABS has nearly killed me for the last time... I'm killing that SOB once and for all. Where exactly could I find the relay so I can disconnect it? I'd sincerely appreciate any help. Thanks!!!
aNtHrAx323
Disabling ABS
It has killed you?
In my G Wagen, it is as simple as pushing button on the console, but in the 300E's I think its a little more complicated. The only way I know to disconnect the ABS is to remove the OVP relay... ...but this will also make your car die under 1k rpms (unless you rev it at idle)....
Someone's gotta know another place to shut it off.
I don't understand, whats wrong with the ABS?
It has killed you?
In my G Wagen, it is as simple as pushing button on the console, but in the 300E's I think its a little more complicated. The only way I know to disconnect the ABS is to remove the OVP relay... ...but this will also make your car die under 1k rpms (unless you rev it at idle)....
Someone's gotta know another place to shut it off.
I don't understand, whats wrong with the ABS?
Hmmm... by OVP relay, are you talking about the solenoid relay under the cover of the ABS...
Hmmm... by OVP relay, are you talking about the solenoid relay under the cover of the ABS hydraulic unit? And why will it make the car die under 1k?
Well, I'm used to driving other cars without ABS (like my 1967 Fiat Dino 2000 Coupe, and prior to that a trusty old 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, among others), and threshold braking is 2nd nature for me. The ABS on this car is EXTREMELY sensitive (maybe due to the fact that at least one of my rotors are slightly warped), and once it kicks in, my stopping distance is pretty much doubled, and even if I let off the brakes in the hopes of getting ABS to deactivate, it remains activated. It is, after all, a 1st generation ABS system (I believe), and I despise those systems... Extremely stupid if you ask me. Trust me, I've thought long and hard about disabling ABS, and due to the situations it has put me in, I'm ready to disable it.
Hmmm... by OVP relay, are you talking about the solenoid relay under the cover of the ABS hydraulic unit? And why will it make the car die under 1k?
Well, I'm used to driving other cars without ABS (like my 1967 Fiat Dino 2000 Coupe, and prior to that a trusty old 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, among others), and threshold braking is 2nd nature for me. The ABS on this car is EXTREMELY sensitive (maybe due to the fact that at least one of my rotors are slightly warped), and once it kicks in, my stopping distance is pretty much doubled, and even if I let off the brakes in the hopes of getting ABS to deactivate, it remains activated. It is, after all, a 1st generation ABS system (I believe), and I despise those systems... Extremely stupid if you ask me. Trust me, I've thought long and hard about disabling ABS, and due to the situations it has put me in, I'm ready to disable it.
The ovp relay is located next to your fuel pumps. It is behind your battery (you have to ...
The ovp relay is located next to your fuel pumps. It is behind your battery (you have to remove a plastic shield between the battery and fuel pumps/ovp. And by removing it your car will die if it is not revved. You will notice the voltage throughout the car will not remain stable under 1k rpm. (Headlight brightness and power brightness will go up and down). THis probably is not the fix you want.
CAN SOMEONE else help anthrax find another way to get his ABS disabled... I don't think the OVP is the way to go.
The ovp relay is located next to your fuel pumps. It is behind your battery (you have to remove a plastic shield between the battery and fuel pumps/ovp. And by removing it your car will die if it is not revved. You will notice the voltage throughout the car will not remain stable under 1k rpm. (Headlight brightness and power brightness will go up and down). THis probably is not the fix you want.
CAN SOMEONE else help anthrax find another way to get his ABS disabled... I don't think the OVP is the way to go.
Oooooh, THAT's the OVP relay... I wouldn't ever dream of disconnecting that 
. The rel...
Oooooh, THAT's the OVP relay... I wouldn't ever dream of disconnecting that . The relay I'm thinking of is on the ABS hydraulic unit itself. Here's a shot from the tech manual (the ABS hydraulic unit with the cover removed):
![Image]()
. The rel...Oooooh, THAT's the OVP relay... I wouldn't ever dream of disconnecting that
. The relay I'm thinking of is on the ABS hydraulic unit itself. Here's a shot from the tech manual (the ABS hydraulic unit with the cover removed):
OVP relay
Chupper,
You have correctly identified the location of the over-voltage protection relay behind the battery, however the fuel pumps are not there as well. They are under the floor just forward of the rear axle on the right hand side. The OVP relay protects the electronic modules such as the ECU that are located with it behind the battery. Without the OVP relay a car with KE-Jetronic (eg. all M103 and early M104 engines) will run the injection mechanically without any electronic assistance and will not have precise mixture or idle speed control.
Greg
Chupper,
You have correctly identified the location of the over-voltage protection relay behind the battery, however the fuel pumps are not there as well. They are under the floor just forward of the rear axle on the right hand side. The OVP relay protects the electronic modules such as the ECU that are located with it behind the battery. Without the OVP relay a car with KE-Jetronic (eg. all M103 and early M104 engines) will run the injection mechanically without any electronic assistance and will not have precise mixture or idle speed control.
Greg
Erm - what about just unplugging the ABS control unit??? Too complicated? Rather make a mess of everything by pulling the OVP???
The ABS warning lamp however will come on. Based on the level of suggestions in this thread the solution is probably to remove or shoot the whole instrument cluster (removing the lamp will do as well).
Sorry to be so sarcastic, but sometimes I can't help but facepalm realy hard...
And then I would realy like to hear how and why an ABS can "nearly kill" you!?
The ABS warning lamp however will come on. Based on the level of suggestions in this thread the solution is probably to remove or shoot the whole instrument cluster
(removing the lamp will do as well).Sorry to be so sarcastic, but sometimes I can't help but facepalm realy hard...
And then I would realy like to hear how and why an ABS can "nearly kill" you!?
LOL, I wish also knew. Do note that the user who almost got killed by ABS is not me.
However, I have wanted to disable my own ABS system for a while in order to troubleshoot a problem with noise and pulsating brake pedal even at low speeds, with no ABS warning light. Naturally, it would be much easier to remove a fuse than disconnect ABS control unit (if location of such fuse was known, which was the point of my first post in this thread). And yeah, disconnecting OVP to fix ABS is not something I'll do, especially because I have no other problems (yet). Seems that faulty OVP tends to affect both ABS and idling...
'Luckily' enough, ABS light has come up after cleaning the sensors (which has helped remove an annoying noise). My next step will be to check the two relays in the ABS Pump, after which I'll likely look at replacing sensor cable, or even the sensors. OVP would be next in line if problem persists.
However, I have wanted to disable my own ABS system for a while in order to troubleshoot a problem with noise and pulsating brake pedal even at low speeds, with no ABS warning light. Naturally, it would be much easier to remove a fuse than disconnect ABS control unit (if location of such fuse was known, which was the point of my first post in this thread). And yeah, disconnecting OVP to fix ABS is not something I'll do, especially because I have no other problems (yet). Seems that faulty OVP tends to affect both ABS and idling...
'Luckily' enough, ABS light has come up after cleaning the sensors (which has helped remove an annoying noise
). My next step will be to check the two relays in the ABS Pump, after which I'll likely look at replacing sensor cable, or even the sensors. OVP would be next in line if problem persists.
Just looked at the schematics. There is no fuse to kill power to the ABS hydraulic unit.
If you really want to disable the system you'd disconnect the two red wires (with ring terminals) that attach to the stud (X35) ahead of the battery. This is the same stud that the battery, alternator and engine control circuits connect to so you'd have to figure out which 2 red wires are for the ABS. (Alternator circuits are white/red). Shouldn't be too hard since the ABS uses an overlay harness and you can probably start at the ABS controller and work your way 15 inches to X35.
If you really want to disable the system you'd disconnect the two red wires (with ring terminals) that attach to the stud (X35) ahead of the battery. This is the same stud that the battery, alternator and engine control circuits connect to so you'd have to figure out which 2 red wires are for the ABS. (Alternator circuits are white/red). Shouldn't be too hard since the ABS uses an overlay harness and you can probably start at the ABS controller and work your way 15 inches to X35.
Have a look in the FSM (startekinfo), there's a very, very detailed testing procedure for everything related to the ABS. You coul have allready worked your way half way through...
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