The best thing to do is find an indy with an SDS or bite the bullet and have the dealer
read codes only. From there decide who you want fixing depending on what it is.

Saw a similar issue that an owner chased for a month and it was camshaft position sensor.

In another case it was a coolant temp sensor sending bad signals to the ECU.

So many variables that it is going to be more cost effective to get the codes read and
take it from there. Some codes will make the truck run poorly and not throw the CEL.

 

Have owned two MLs (320 and 55 AMG), I had a problem with the 320 version not getting out of first or second every now and then. Took it to my expert MB guy. He told me to use the 4WD option every now and then, which I did and it cured the problem.
I stop and put the ML55 into 4 wheel drive for about 500m or so and then stop and switch back. Apparently some contacts can corrode and can cause this problem if 4WD is not used.
Strongly recommend all ML owners to use this function 3 or 4 times per year.
May not fix your problem - but worth a try.

 

Ok, Just now got back from driving it around for a few minutes in "low range". Hope it was enough. It would be so terrific if that would cure the problem. Thanks for the tip btw.

The best thing to do is find an indy with an SDS or bite the bullet and have the dealer
read codes only. From there decide who you want fixing depending on what it is.

Saw a similar issue that an owner chased for a month and it was camshaft position sensor.

In another case it was a coolant temp sensor sending bad signals to the ECU.

So many variables that it is going to be more cost effective to get the codes read and
take it from there. Some codes will make the truck run poorly and not throw the CEL.

Its interesting that you say that the camshaft position sensor is a possible cause because it idles fairly rough and I heard THAT would be a cause of a camshaft position sensor. Thanks for that tip as well.

Just a bit of advice for the future, whenever there are codes stored, whether the CEL is on or not, you must document and save those codes for future reference. Meaning, ask the person reading the codes to write them down for you.

Secondly the codes can be read by an independent mechanic who has a professional grade scanner, similar to the one pictured below. When it comes to transmission codes, the mechanic should give you the Poxxx code and then the three digit code/s which pinpoints the problem within the P0xxx code (see below). If he doesn't give you those three digit codes he doen't know how to use the scanner or the scanner isn't capable of access to the Transmission Control Module.

Thanks for the ETC code list PDF. This might come in handy. and I try to keep a record of all the codes the car has given off.


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I'm gonna head to a independent mechanic tomorrow who should be able read the transmission codes, then I will go from there. I have no clue what will come back. But I guess we will see. Fingers crossed guys thanks.

 

Ummmmmmmmm??????????????????
They are always in AWD. Did you mean Low Range? Even then it is an all wheel drive system. And yes it is good to put the truck into low range several times a year at a minimum.
Not a 4 wheel drive system like a pickup truck.

 

Yes - sorry - of course I meant going to 'low range'. I was told there are a few things that can play up if you don't use the low range button at all and staying in a low gear was one of them - it happened to me!!

 

Just a bit of advice for the future, whenever there are codes stored, whether the CEL is on or not, you must document and save those codes for future reference. Meaning, ask the person reading the codes to write them down for you.

Secondly the codes can be read by an independent mechanic who has a professional grade scanner, similar to the one pictured below. When it comes to transmission codes, the mechanic should give you the Poxxx code and then the three digit code/s which pinpoints the problem within the P0xxx code (see below). If he doesn't give you those three digit codes he doen't know how to use the scanner or the scanner isn't capable of access to the Transmission Control Module.

 

Limp mode

You should check the Trans fluid level, and if OK , try switching in/out of low range about 10 times.

 

You should check the Trans fluid level, and if OK , try switching in/out of low range about 10 times.

Unable to check the transmission fluid level due to it being sealed and me not having that dipstick. But I could try to put it in low range 10 times.

 

Level dip stick

Buy one off ebay for $20.............best investment for the car besides the code reader.
And the plastic seal has a little tab you just snap off. Then the cap can be removed and replaced.

Otherwise you will pay more than $20 for a dealer to check it for you!

 

The tabs are $1.25. I always buy 4-5. The dealers stock dozens at a time. There are at
least 20 models since 1998 that use them and they are all using the same tab.

If the fluid level is unknown the dipstick is a must have item and I have a feeling the level may be the cause.

 

I have a 2003 W211 (E-320) Transmission problem

I am experiencing what seems to be a very common problem in this model. My MB has been going into limp mode, but always came out after shutdown and cool off. Now if is stuck there (1st gear). Haven't made to mech yet, but I have seen several people having this issue with a speed sensor?? First, can this be replaced and second, why are so many having this problem at under 100K mi like myself??

 

Has your fluid ever been changed or had a level check?

The speed sensor error could be the result of a soaked pilot bushing or conductor plate.
Most of the time the problems with these transmissions are far less involved than what
the shops say they are. They just see the dollar signs.

 

I recently had the fluid changed. I plan on taking it in tomorrow to have the level checked again. I called a shop today asking about the sonsor to be told that they couldn't replace the sensor that the transmission had to be replaced, which I found hard to believe.

 

The sensor can be replaced. I would not take it them. They are already digging into your wallet.

 

What was the new fluid ? Was this a pan-pull-refill (50%) or a full pump-exhcnage method ?

Was the connector plug checked and/or replaced with new MB part ? (like a $20 part and added labor during the fluid change would have been nominal)

Best to get a full understanding of what was done at the service, and a full understanding if the connector was replaced or not.

A spped sensor problem cannot be diagnosed until you get sqaured away on the basic stuff.

Keep the beat !

 

Did you fix this problem? If so what was it?
Did using the 'low range' switch help? .......... cheers

 

That sounds like the transmission conductor plate. It does not turn on the engine light because the error is sporadic and does not repeat again enough to turn on the engine light.

Though it is sporadic, it is enough to put your transmission into limp mode until you turn on and off your engine..

The problem gets worst with time.. Get an OBDII scanner and check your pending codes.. You should be able to see the problem code, if it is the conductor plate..

Below are the contents of one of my posts when I had that problem...


AC

Originally Posted by AC_ML
43sqd, Thanks I took your advise and got the replaced parts back.

I'll give the repair details in case anybody else have this nasty transmission problem.

Total Repair Cost: $1046.00

PROBLEM: TRANS CONDUCTOR PLATE INT GOING OPEN

58862 Trans Conductor Plate Int going Open. SDS test Code P2203
R&R Valve Body & Repl. Trans Conductor Plate TK1597 4.6

1 140-270-08-61 Electronics KI $263.90
1 203-540-02-53 Spacer $11.18
1 140-991-00-55 Lock Pin $1.50
4 001-989-21-03-10 Trans Fluid $79.92
1 140-271-00-80 Gasket Trans $17.85
1 140-277-00-95 Trans OIL FI $20.56
1 140-271-00-60 Seal Ring $1.88

Total Labor: $563.00

Bothers me that I had just done the transmission flush, since all the transmission oil had to be removed again.

Hopefully this will help somebody..

One symptom of this problem that I want to add, to the posts below, is that when the gear gets stuck in 4th or 3rd and one stops in a red light, and when you start to roll again, the vehicle feels like it does not have any power, since it is still stuck in higher gear and it's trying to use that higuer gear instead of 1st or 2nd.

If you shift to "P" or "R" and then back to "D", then the gear selection will be, thereafter, on 2nd gear. (limp mode)

The P0715 code was a pending code, so therefore theere was no problem light on the dashboard, (since the transmission conductor plate was intermittently going open) but was enough to put the transmission in limp mode, and since it was intermittent, the transmission was ok after turning off and on the engine. If the transmission conductor plate was always open, then the transmission will always have been stuck in gear.

As 43sqd cautioned, be careful not to get charged for a whole new transmission. Always get a second opinion if they mention that you need a new transmission for this kind of problem.

AC

 

Mine had same issue which was remedied with a new fuel filter.Check air filter while your under bonnet.
Des.