Hi, Mick.

Remember your other thread about similar problems.

First of all, I will be on the limb to say that the traditional electric diagnosis does not work very well on these cars. Other than a blown fuse or an apparent bad connection, there is not a whole lot to logically conclude what is bad.

The reason is that these cars use a lot of modules and these modules are inter-connected in a BUS system. When you disrupt the power to them by puling a fuse or dis-connect the battery, you are re-setting them (like re-booting a Windows computer, ) so some intermittent problems are corrected temporarily until they act up again.

The only for sure way to diagnose these problems is to have your car scanned by a Mercedes scanner. When various modules fail intermittently or permanently, codes are stored.

Your problem could be caused by the LCP (Lower Control Panel), the DCMs (Door Control Module), or the ESAs (Electronic Seat Adjustment), or even the PSE/A37 (Pneumatic System Equipment) or even other modules.

Without a scan, what you can do is to dis-connect a particular module and then re-connect. If the problem is solved (temporarily), then that module is the likely cause of the problem.

However, from common problems experienced by others, the LCP (Lower Control panel) is a likely cause of your issues. This is the switch assembly under the gear shift. In our sticky, there is a video showing how to dis-connect it. So try that first.

 

Need help! My 99 W210 4matic Wagon first lost front passenger seat/window/mirror adjustment. I used the battery disconnect reset, which fixed the problem, but it returned 4 days later. 3 weeks later, I have lost driver window/seat/mirror/wheel adjustmment. Both front sides are now out.
1) Does loss of both sides narrow down the offending module?
2) I really did look for the sticky referenced, but could not find the LCP to disconnect it. Can you please post it here?
3) This forum has been a Godsend for DIYs on other topics, but I think a DIY on how to trouble shoot this common problem would be great as well.
Thanks in advance!

 

Now one new symptom. The central locking system just failed and I needed to use the key to open the driver side door. Started car and locks worked. Parked car and locks stopped working. Did a battery disconnect, and normal operation resumed.
1) Does this help narrow down the module?

 

I had simlar problems with my 97E420. started as very intermittent, then windows,seats,mirrors quit working. After a little detective work, it turns out my voltage regulator had failed, allowing the alternator voltage to go up to about 15V. once voltage got to about 14.6V windows/locks/mirrors/seats quit working. replaced regulator, problem gone, everything working fine now. See if everything works with the ignition on but engine off. Then also use the A/C diagnostics to read battery voltage with the engine off and engine on. Engine on, voltage should be in the 13.6 V range.

 

Thank you for your reply. The secret menus in this car never cease to amaze me! I did get the A/C diags up and I have been monitoring register 24 for a couple of days now. It is always between 13.1-13.3 with the lights on and 13.1-13.5 with the lights off. Since, I have lost passenger side again, but CLS and Driver side adjuster still online. So I don't think it is the voltage regulator (it was a good thing to rule out!). I am thinking a module in the CBUS, but which one?????

 

You can catalog your canbus plugs on the busbar in the lower right kick panel. Disconnect the battery, then remove the first plug, reconnect the battery and note what item does not work. Once you know what each plug is, you disconnect one plug, do a battery reset and wait until things start to fail. When you unplug one and nothing else fails for at least a week, that should be the bad module.

 

this is becoming a very commom issue with these 210's. but i got a 97 e420 and i have been looking for the busbar for a couple months now. i have the passenger side torn apart following the wires but no busbar... i have read also on the other websites the 97 does not have a busbar but im gonna have to cut wires... anybody else with a 97 can confirm this or any help...

 

I can't verify which models have what where, but this technology began in the early 90's and is now prevalent in all cars times 10. Over the next 10 yrs there will be very few car repairs you can do yourself on even the cheapest cars. Maybe some r&r, but someone will have to diagnose it first. It'll make a 1990 750il look cheap and easy to work on.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.

I have decided to take the approach listed in this forum:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1412373-no-power-windows-seats-every-week-2.html

1) I will find the CAN-B X30/7 connector under the front passenger sill, near the A column.
2) I will unplug from the connector a single plug at a time and label its function.
3) Based on the hours of reading, I will start with the right rear window plug, as 2 previous posters have isolated the problem to that module (even though both write that the rear windows still worked fine.)
4) If the problem does not reoccur, I found the offending module. If it does, move on to the left rear and so on.

I will continue to post till I find it!

 

So far I have eliminated the voltage regulator and tried to reset by unplugging the connectors from under the center switches (LCM?) without success.

 

PDF here:
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdfs/507 Systems I/507 HO CAN B (ICC) 10-28-02.pdf

 

My 1999 e320 been having d same problem, back window work but no power in front, unplug batt, work 4 a while then stop

 

I will be in Houston next week for Lemons at TWS. If you are really flexible on your time, send me a message and I will try to meet you and show you how to diag your problem.
David

 

I would say check the battery first sometimes water will get inside the component where the battery is from the outside tube thats sticking out. I would put a fan to it just to dry it out make sure there is no water evaporated or something like that. Next open your hood im not sure the 99's if they say it but look in left side when you open the hood where it says battery located in the rear seat take that off i think it has like 4 screws and check the fuses see if they are all good. I would disconect the battery for at least a day normally its 20 mins but i have had cases where something major has happened and i have disconected the battery for a whole day and next day never had problems

 

Sean -thanks for the suggestions. I will try this method this weekend.
David - please visit NJ sometime and diagnose my problem!
In the mean time, I have purchased and installed a quick disconnect switch from ebay for $4. This makes a battery reset take only 1 minute. Link attached:
Universal Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch Link Automotive Truck | eBay

 

SO I replaced the battery this weekend. I had much hope that it would fix this problem.
ALAS - the problem remains.

 

OK - progress. With the improved weather, I worked on the issue and I was able to find the CAN BUS B connector exactly where dsmith said it would be. I followed the proceedure to label which plug does what function (The PDF and the actual devices did not match at all). Based on other users reports, I wanted to start with the rear passenger window. I found the plug for passenger rear window on the CAN BUS B and unplugged it. It has been a week and the problem has not returned!

Now I need to figure out which part in the rear window is the culprit; motor or switch, yes?

 

Has to be the motor with the built in CAN BUS controller:
RH REAR (PASSENGER SIDE) POWER WINDOW MOTOR FOR 1998-1999 MERCEDES E300D TURBO (WITH DOOR CONTROL MODULE) - 2108205442

 

Yes, the motor and module are one part on the rear. I finally just replaced my right rear last month. Everything has worked normally since. I got mine from autohausaz.

Congrats on your findings.

 

dsmith, how difficult a DIY was the motor replacement? I've been having similar problems although right now everything is working (when it goes out it is the front passenger side power seat, power window and side view mirror). I was thinking about taking a gamble and just putting one in. I hope I'm not hijacking the thread but is the standard plastic door trim and panel removal tool set from Harbor Freight acceptable?

Thanks

 

I was going to ask the very same question. I have seen a DIY for the window regulator, but I cannot tell how the motor only would install...

 

I've decided to try and do the CAN BUS trace to find the problem. Do you need to disconnect the battery before you disconnect the wire on the specific CAN BUS plug and then reconnect the battery or do you just disconnect one of the wires then do the battery reboot?

 

Bump

 

Ok. One year later I decide to tackle the project. Skipped the CAN/BUS business and went straight to the RR door motor. Removed door panel, unplugged motor, secured bare plug ends with electrical tape, reconnected other wiring and replaced door panel. Front seats, windows and side-view mirrors now work and this didn't require a battery reset. If this is the fix I'll leave it as is since I can easily live without a functioning RR window. Besides, if I replace the motor the regulator will break one week later.

For anyone who wants to replace the motor only it can be done by removing two torx 30 screws. You have to line up the teeth on the rotor of the new motor with that on the window regulator and reinstall the screws.

 

Any damp in the rear door will affect the front windows, had a few like this in the UK this very wet Winter.

 

Are there drains that need to be cleaned for the rear door? I had suspected this but didn't see any rust or obvious signs of water damage but also didn't see any drain holes.

 

Only the normal drain holes, if this is a damp problem the seal strip along the door should be checked. The other problem is its all CAN controlled, do spray any connectors with a non drying switch cleaner, as CAN connections cannot arc themselves good.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but would the seal strip be the rubber strip on the outside top of the door that contacts the window? Do you think if I sprayed the connectors for the door control module/motor that it might solve the problem without replacing the motor?

Thanks very much for your feedback and suggestions.