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Draining fuel tank

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4K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  Penzbenz  
#1 ·
Hey team! My 1972 280SE 4.5 has gone from totally reliable to shutting itself off after 10-15 miles. It restarts after a short rest and does the same thing again. I’ve replaced almost everything except trigger points but I thought I would drain the fuel tank first to make sure there isn’t trash in the tank. There’s a large hex drain plug in the bottom middle of the tank and I don’t know if my model has an internal filter. Can someone tell me what size hex driver is needed to remove the plug and where the tank filter is? I know where the in-line fuel filter and pump is. Thanks! Bob
 
#2 ·
Bob, If you are draining the tank you may as well put in new strainer and a filter. Dealing with that fuel mess is half the job. Lots of problems can be created by the corroded or even worse - broken up strainer.
Pump can only handle debris smaller then the strainer will allow to pass. Remember the main filter is placed after the pump. I’ve done that several times and in my opinion is best to do it all at once. Parts are fairly inexpensive so get them, including the outlet hose. I see if I can get you the diagram.
 
#4 ·
Yes but where is the strainer? I know where the fuel filter is and can change that easily. Thanks so much for your response!
Bob, If you are draining the tank you may as well put in new strainer and a filter. Dealing with that fuel mess is half the job. Lots of problems can be created by the corroded or even worse - broken up strainer.
Pump can only handle debris smaller then the strainer will allow to pass. Remember the main filter is placed after the pump. I’ve done that several times and in my opinion is best to do it all at once. Parts are fairly inexpensive so get them, including the outlet hose. I see if I can get you the diagram.
 
#6 ·
Your not getting a Vapor lock are you ? My W115 started doing that for no reason especially on a hot day . Let it rest started right back up. Might not do it again for weeks and then could happen the next time I drove it. Insulated the fuel lines in the engine bay . Problem solved Just a thought
 
#12 ·
#15 ·
You should diagnose the problem while you are having the issue. You can prove whether it’s a fuel or spark issue by squirting something flammable into the throttle body while the car isn’t running. If that makes the car run for a short bit, then you know you have a fuel ratio issue. If not, then you know you have a spark (or air?) issue.


Are you running the original ignition points? The rider wears down, and when the car is warmed up and idle RPMs get low, the car will stall bc the points aren’t opening up enough to break contact.


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