[whiteoakstanding3419]

Okay.

Before leaving on a test ride, we found that the relay was not making contact on the board. When my buddy applied pressure to relay toward front of truck, it started right up.

We also found after testing the old pump that it was working fine, so I have a used pump for sale if anyone interested. I will ebay it otherwise (guaranteed to work).

So, my issue is the relay panel and why/how the fuel pump relay is not making proper contact AND getting hot enough to melt/distort the area where the fuel pump relay plugs in.

When we returned from test ride she died & refused to turn over. But this time she started up when the MAF was disconnected. I wanted to get it up my hill and behind the gate.

What is up with this vehicle?

Thanks for ANY suggestions.

 

[Noodles]

You solved it in your other post. Replace or repair of the fuse panel should make it all good.
As for the overheating to avoid another meltdown at the relay socket two things to
consider. Is the e-box fan working?

Some pumps although they appear to work develop wiring faults. There are old threads
with melted wiring in the pump and they were older pumps. After seeing the pictures
I was amazed they would work at all. If that is going on it will increase impedance to
the wiring at the relay thus causing more heat than the socket can handle.
If the wiring looks good on your used pump the that is not the issue, but a pump that
is wearing out can also draw more power and mess up electrical things. It is really just
a guess as far as the old pump goes.
I doubt the new one will cause issues with the relay and a working e-box fan.

 

[wannaln]

Hello members

My truck at 169K seems to need a new fuel pump & filter.
At the dealership the fuel pump goes for $440.
On the Internet I found fuel pump part # A 163 470 35 94 made by MEYLE that goes for $191.06
The question is, has anyone tried to use MEYLE fuel pumps ? any good/bad experiences ? any recommendation ?

Thanks.

 

[wannaln]

My research shows that MEYLE is a German Company so I guess I won't go wrong with that fuel pump... I cross my fingers

 

[benz_al]

I would pay a bit more get OEM's...
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

 

[wannaln]

Just a quick update...
Meyle fuel pump seems to be good so far no issues that I had before the change.

My truck started fine after the change of fuel pump, filter and updated new fuel lines following an issue whereby the truck would die on idle, had no power on an incline and pushing accelerator down for more gas caused the rpms to fall... actually after all these symptoms it decided to not start at all one day. I guess the fuel pump was dead completely ...LOL

We will see how it holds... now at 170K miles and still running great

 

[condors]

Thanks so much for the information everybody has provided. I spent Sunday replacing the fuel sender, lines and updated filter and so far so good. Only issue I have is the fuel gauge seems to be dropping faster than usual. I figured the quarter tank mark is about 80 miles traveled so I should be at 3/4 left. Right now I'm about at the 2/3 mark with 80 miles traveled.

I might try the remove #5 fuse trick to see if I have to reset something. Any sugguestions?

Thanks

 

[XboxMeister]

About to embark on fuel pump change on my 1999 ML430

Hi all,

I am experiencing the inaccurate fuel gauge symptoms on my 1999 ML430 and figure it is probably the sender going bad. It will go to empty on a full tank, go from full to 3/4 full in a few mins of driving, .... Opened up the access panel and see I have the original pump unit (A163 470 10 94).

I see if I want to replace the pump I have to replace the fuel lines and filter. My question is are there more fuel lines than before and if so where do any new ones run to/from? Or are they just updated lines that run between existing connections? What I am worried about is that I have to feed a new line to somewhere I can't access. Live in an apartment bldg so no good way to lift the truck, ... Have to be able to do whatever I need to do from within the truck, under the hood, ...

Can anyone explain a bit more about the fuel line upgrade part? The rest is pretty well documented in the threads, just need to clarify this before I get into something I can't do.

thx

XBM

 

[43sqd]

Hi all,

I am experiencing the inaccurate fuel gauge symptoms on my 1999 ML430 and figure it is probably the sender going bad. It will go to empty on a full tank, go from full to 3/4 full in a few mins of driving, .... Opened up the access panel and see I have the original pump unit (A163 470 10 94).

I see if I want to replace the pump I have to replace the fuel lines and filter. My question is are there more fuel lines than before and if so where do any new ones run to/from? Or are they just updated lines that run between existing connections? What I am worried about is that I have to feed a new line to somewhere I can't access. Live in an apartment bldg so no good way to lift the truck, ... Have to be able to do whatever I need to do from within the truck, under the hood, ...

Can anyone explain a bit more about the fuel line upgrade part? The rest is pretty well documented in the threads, just need to clarify this before I get into something I can't do.

thx

XBM

If your filter/fuel lines do not look the highlighted area then you must purchase and install the three fuel lines in the pdf. If it does look like it then you only need a filter.

 

[XboxMeister]

Thanks...I already know I have the old pump and therefore not the new fuel lines. My question was really whether there are additional lines to be run and where to. In the meantime I found an archive from Wolfgang's old site and found the info about this. Looks like I will have to jack up the truck, remove the rear driver's side tire and wheel well access panel to get to the filter to replace it...looks like that is where the lines go so assuming I can find a good place to work on it, I tihnk I am good to go.

thx

XBM

 

[43sqd]

Thanks...I already know I have the old pump and therefore not the new fuel lines. My question was really whether there are additional lines to be run and where to. In the meantime I found an archive from Wolfgang's old site and found the info about this. Looks like I will have to jack up the truck, remove the rear driver's side tire and wheel well access panel to get to the filter to replace it...looks like that is where the lines go so assuming I can find a good place to work on it, I tihnk I am good to go.

thx

XBM

You did not read the pdf that I also supplied. In that pdf it instructs replacing lines 1-2-3 and with part numbers.

 

[em2b96p]

I bought the upgraded filter and the three lines. Im having trouble installing the Fuel Feed Line (A-163-470-28-64). This line will not plug onto the fuel pump.

My fuel pump has a small opening for the Fuel Return Line and a big opening for the Fuel Feed Line. The fuel return line connects fine, but the fuel feed line will not connect.

Upon visual inspection both of the lines look identical. When I looked at my old filter and lines there is a visual difference in size. The old lines fit onto my fuel pump with no problems.

I have called my local Mercedes dealership this morning and spoke to the parts, service, and left a message with the head service manager.

**I have to the end of the lines with the BLACK locking tabs connected to the fuel filter and the YELLOW locking tabs attempting to connect to my fuel pump. Is this correct or reversed?**

Any help guys?

 

[Witek_M]

If lines look identical something is wrong. Yellow locking tabs go to fuel pump.

 

[em2b96p]

If lines look identical something is wrong. Yellow locking tabs go to fuel pump.

Im sorry I should have been clearer. The lines themselves do not look identical. However, the yellow clip side that goes to the fuel pump look identical in size.

The smaller fuel return line plugs into the fuel pump easily. The fuel feed line does not plug into fuel pump as easily. I tried pushing down with a bit more force and it still wont plug.

 

[michael_khait]

Big thank you Merzatt - awesome pictorial and wonderful DIY (SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME)

 

[vinnienle]

Thank you, Merzatt!!!

I had the hard start issue with the '01 ML320 for over a year. It has 196K miles. It stalled once while stopping at the intersection because it ran out of gas at the 1/4 tank indicator. It also had power issue of not being able to accelerate and it was stuttering but it would go away after a stop & restart. The Check Engine Light was eventually on for the catalyst converter/oxygen sensor, etc. I finally took it in to the dealership two weeks ago and paid $170 for the Check Engine Light diagnostics & received a quote for about $4,000 (CC = $2,300 & Fuel Pump & Filter = $1,700).

I thought I would start with what's known so I bought the MB's Fuel Pump & Filter instead and studied & memorized Merzatt's instructions. Both the fuel pump and filter were replaced 5 years ago along with the upgraded lines & filter size by the dealership. I was up early last Saturday morning & started working (with close to 1/4 tank of gas left) & I was done within 5 hours. The hard start issue was still there after the new pump was in but it went away after I replaced the filter. I would definitely get the Klann Fuel Line Pliers Mercedes M-Class next time. It also took awhile to figure out how to get the lock ring out without the proper tool & "the one full turn" instruction was so important. I had to use the old lock ring though. I cleared all the error codes and none has come back so far. I also inspected and tapped on the CC's and visually they looked good so hopefully I would not need to replace them yet. I checked my record & the CC campaign issue was already taking care of in 2005.

The total savings (if no need to replace the CC's) was $3,400. Yup, I paid $600 for the MB's Fuel Pump & Filter with a the dealership's discount card (10% on parts).

Thank you for reading & THANK YOU, Merzatt, & as well everyone on this threads for your very helpful comments.

 

[Merzatt]

You are very welcome. :thumbsup:

There is something I should add to the original instructions. Disconnect the battery before starting the procedure. If one prefers not to do that, connect the SRS sensor cable (under the seat) before turning the key to start the engine. These will prevent SRS error code and light.

 

[vinnienle]

You are very welcome. :thumbsup:

There is something I should add to the original instructions. Disconnect the battery before starting the procedure. If one prefers not to do that, connect the SRS sensor cable (under the seat) before turning the key to start the engine. These will prevent SRS error code and light.

Thanks, Merzatt! I did both. But too bad for me thought because I already managed to trip the SRS error code from a month ago when I replaced both of the passenger door actuator motors. Basically, I took the negative off the battery but didn't plug the SRS back correctly on one of the doors. So I took Fuse #1 out for now & will need to make a trip back to the dealership for a reset. A very small price to pay considering thousands in savings...again thanks to you!

 

[art_arev]

You are in the wrong forum

 

[Noodles]

I moved his post to the W140 forum.