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Carsoft 7.4 Multiplexer Questions

7.9K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  RKH  
#1 ·
Bob,

Sent you a pm yesterday about Carsoft 7.4. I read the long thread on the SLK forum about Carsoft 7.4 and limitations/difficulties using this SW and the related interfaces.

I have a CEL that has popped up for the 3rd time on my 96 SL320. Previous times, indie cleared the CEL and found no issues. Tired of paying $180 for 2 hours of their time to clear a non-issue CEL, so I bought the less expensive interface from China (non-multiplexer version).

I have installed the SW (challenging) and, based on your comments on the SLK thread, used the 38 pin connector and tried to use the SW, as opposed to the OBDII connector. I tried a full digital scan (3 times) and each time, only one module responded with an OK - the other modules responded "module not found or installed". Also noted that not all modules were tested - particularly the ME module where, I am sure, the CEL errors are based.

You mentioned that the non-mux I/F's need a more manual approach to using, but I could not read anywhere in the long thread exactly what steps are needed to use the non-mux box. There is no ability to specify a pin to access (send a signal to) in the SW. I read that the mux boxes allow a complete check of all modules (ex soft top) via a full system scan. How do I access all modules with my non-mux box? I tried a one by one approach (just selecting ME for example) and still got the message - module not found or not installed. Is this an example of buggy cracked SW or a bad I/F box? I was able to run the LH module individually (for 104 engines) and I got back two messages about the coolant temperature sender and CO sensor. I "erased" these errors hoping this would clear the CEL, but the CEL remains.

I am also unable to get Live Data feed from the SW/38 Pin connector for any of the Live Data modules.

I also loaded CS 7.6 and get no response at all on any attempt to read data. Is it possible the I/F from China is specific to 7.4 only?

Sorry for the length of this post. Frustrated with what I thought was/is the right way to read error codes and clear them.

I sent you my cell # in the pm. If at all possible, could you give me a ring to discuss?

Highest regards,

Al Lydon
Atlanta, GA
 
#2 ·
I tried a full digital scan (3 times) and each time, only one module responded with an OK - the other modules responded "module not found or installed".
Your non-MUX unit came with a male connector for plugging into the 38-pin diagnostic connector on your car, but only 3 of those male pins are actually wired (1,3,4). Two of them (1,3) are for power connections, so when you plug-in the interface is wired to communicate with just one system -- the one associated with pin 4 -- and for your car that would be "HFM".

To communicate with the other systems you have to somehow connect the male pin 4 to the female socket of the desired system. To do this "David in Australia" attached one end of an electrical lead to the male pin 4 and attached the other end to a paperclip which he inserted into the various female sockets (picture). He connected the male pins 1 and 3 to his car battery for power.

I used a different method. I removed two small screws and disassembled the shell of the male 38-pin connector. Then I unsoldered the wire to pin 4. With the shell still removed this allowed me to plug-in the connector and use a jumper wire with small alligator clips at each end to connect the unsoldered wire to the appropriate pin for the system I wanted to check (chart).

For live data, try "MSM" and "ME" since there is no selection "HFM". It may not be supported for the SL320.

The Carsoft version 7.6 uses a different communication protocol than version 7.4, so it is incompatible with your interface.

For troubleshooting a check engine light you can go to Autozone and have them read the codes and extinguish the light for free.

I have one of these non-MUX Carsoft interfaces for sale for $100.
 

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#3 ·
Al,
I don't know anything about all that digital stuff. You lost me 28 pins ago. I thought Carsoft 7.4 was a car wax.:D

Make sure your indy checks ALL your vacuum lines. They are the very first thing to look at with a mysterious CEL. The lines are plastic, brittle and just plain piss poor. MB should be ashamed of that material choice. If I were you, I would just have your indy replace them all. Mine did and my CEL went away.
 
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#4 ·
Bob,

Thanks for your response. Clearer now. Is buying the mux version the right way to go and eat the non-mux HW? Also, will the mux version clear the CEL by erasing the error codes?

Al
 
#5 ·
Al, I don't think the multiplexer has any advantages other than convenience. If you have a code, then your non-MUX version should be able to read and erase it, but I sense that yours did not...Be sure and check the transmission module, and for pin 4 I would run a digital test selecting "ME" and "MSM" as well as "HFM".
 
#7 ·
Look at post 13 on this link:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1270869-38-pin-carsoft-7-4-a.html

Here is another link

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1574129-carsoft-7-4-multiplexer-diagnostic-tool-2.html

A friend of mine just bought this car soft multiplexer tester:

Wholesale Diagnostic Tools - Buy For Benz MB Carsoft 7.4 Multiplexer OBD Communication Interface Cable, $47.4 | DHgate

It works good...

You will need a Windows PC running XP with a dedicated serial port-no USB to serial converters(they do not work). It will run on win7, but only one of the five versions of windows7 will work. The "Ultimate Version" which is the $400 version were it will run in XP mode. it is just cheaper to get a laptop for $100usd with a dedicated serial port...

Hope this helps,

Martin
 
#8 ·
Thanks so much ... Just what I was looking for. Pin 21 seems to be the one for the soft top controller.

I will try again as really struggled to get anything to work on carsoft with my cable set similar to one you posted in the link.

Assume I am right to use analogue via the 38 pin port?

I spent a very long time doing individual tests as on analogue it doesn't do a complete diagnostic.

When I tested RST it wouldn't read it and said 'not built in'. So no closer to fixing it sadly.
I changed the stereo the other day and didn't know I had to remove the green and black wire. This apparently has stopped my roof from working.
I have removed the wire but told I need a tool to reset it.
Given the carsoft cannot read it I doubt it will reset the error code.

To make things worse I just bought another reader/reset tool from the US this week and realised it's the banana type which won't work!?
 
#13 ·
Apologies I should have expounded. Disconnecting the VCC will stop the roof from operating it also may throw a few ASR codes :eek:

Reconnect the green and black striped wire and your roof should operate again.
As mentioned the only purpose of the VCC wire to the sound system is to control the volume at various speeds.

Either reset with a code reader or take off (Disconnect)the negative terminal cable from the battery and touch the positive cable connection for a few seconds. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and start the engine, operate both windows up and down and turn the steering from lock to lock, this hopefully should reset everything.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the info ... Really helpful. I was told the reason my roof has failed is because when i chnged the stereo i left the green and black attached. This caused an issue as the new stereo presumably has no function for speed signals so grounded out the roof controller?
Interestingly the green and black wire had been cut in the past ... Presumably because and aftermarket head unit had been fitted by a previous owner?

The resetting by touching the battery leads sounds scary! Is that definately safe? :)