"Camshaft Position Sensor" Location? for 2001-2004 SLK?

TrojanGabe · Nov 16, 2016

Hello everybody, :smile

1) I have a check-engine-light "P0340" OBD-code, so i think that means: replace the "Camshaft Position Sensor"??

2) But where is it, for 2001-2004 SLK??
Guide? photos? Diagram?

3) I think this is the part number, but AutoHaus says it doesn't fit 2001 SLK

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0041531328

the only guide/photos i find are for the 1998-2000 SLK: :frown
Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 Camshaft Positioning Sensor Replacement | 1998-2004 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

(also, i just replaced my broken waterpump-- not sure if that (overheating?) caused the P0340 OBD-code, but the code keeps coming on "pending" after i clear codes)

Thanks for any help, u guys rock!

TrojanGabe · Nov 16, 2016

BTW, my car doesn't start! :crybaby2:
(i forgot to mention that)

Also, I had my battery tested, and charged; they said it's fine.
(So, it's not the battery)

i appreciate any help

TrojanGabe · Nov 16, 2016

Okay, So this is confusing, but i guess "Camshaft Position Sensor" == "Camshaft Hall Sensor" :eek

i think this is it, but still WEIRD that AutoHausAZ, says that part#0041531328 is not compatible with 2001 SLK.

Links, from me meandering around the web, trying to find an answer :nerd :smashpc:

Crap!! P0340 PO341 Help? - MBWorld.org Forums

Mercedes Camshaft Position Sensor - B6/1 EASY FIX

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1298779-trouble-code-p0341-effect.html

Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals > SLK 230 (170.449) L4-2.3L SC (111.983) (2001) > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locati

C230 Sport Coup · Nov 18, 2016

It's up against the bulkhead. Hard to get at.
No wait, thats the crankshaft position sensor.

Camshaft is the one circled in the photo.
Then there's the other camshaft...um not sure what its called
'magnet' in mercedes parlance under the grey cover on the front of the engine.
Is there oil leaking out of them into the connector(s)? Does the harness have the 'dongle' that prevents the oil from wicking all the way up to the ECU?

Make sure the sensor in the photo is completely seated.
The clips broke on mine, though I personally had never removed the connector.
Stopped dead on the road! Bam.

I keep an obd reader handy in he car (now I just use torque and BT OBD) read the codes, got an error related the sensor, checked the sensor, (wires barely attached) and a piece of electric tape later I was back on the road. Now any time I'm under the hood, I give it a push just for good measure. 234K and still the original sensor.

TrojanGabe · Nov 19, 2016

So, i ordered a "Camshaft Position Sensor" AKA "Camshaft Hall Sensor" ($68)

btw, part#0041531328 *IS* compatible with 2001 SLK230 (it is the same # that is on my car now)

I'll install it in a few days, when it gets here. Hopefully, that let's my car start!!! :smile
___________________________
Thanks for ur help, Mr. C230!

> Is there oil leaking out of them into the connector(s)?
i replaced my "Camshaft Magnet" a few years ago, i don't think it's leaking, and that's a different code than my current (P0340)---- so i don't think that is the problem.

> Does the harness have the 'dongle' that prevents the oil from wicking all the way up to the ECU?
I'm not sure what u mean by "dongle", but the wires to the "camshaft position sensor" are inside plastic conduit, that is broken/melted, but the wires look fine. (i put electric tape around it anyway)

My Sensor is seated fine, looks fine. Clips fine. (maybe it just died of old age)

Yeh, i use WiFi OBD with Torque, but if i had BlueTooth OBD, i would use one of these instead: (Free & Open Source)
https://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdfilter=AndrOBD&fdid=com.fr3ts0n.ecu.gui.androbd
https://f-droid.org/repository/brow...ository/browse/?fdfilter=Android+OBD-II+Reader&fdid=com.github.pires.obd.reader

C230 Sport Coup · Nov 21, 2016

TrojanGabe said:
So, i ordered a "Camshaft Position Sensor" AKA "Camshaft Hall Sensor" ($68)

btw, part#0041531328 *IS* compatible with 2001 SLK230 (it is the same # that is on my car now)

I'll install it in a few days, when it gets here. Hopefully, that let's my car start!!! :smile
___________________________
Thanks for ur help, Mr. C230!

> Does the harness have the 'dongle' that prevents the oil from wicking all the way up to the ECU?
I'm not sure what u mean by "dongle", but the wires to the "camshaft position sensor" are inside plastic conduit, that is broken/melted, but the wires look fine. (i put electric tape around it anyway)

Yeh, i use WiFi OBD with Torque, but if i had BlueTooth OBD, i would use one of these instead: (Free & Open Source)
https://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdfilter=AndrOBD&fdid=com.fr3ts0n.ecu.gui.androbd
https://f-droid.org/repository/brow...ository/browse/?fdfilter=Android+OBD-II+Reader&fdid=com.github.pires.obd.reader

2002 c230 and 2001-2004 SLK share the same engine, other than a few minor things,
like air intake position, hence my occcasional presence over here.
This forum is really good for M111 issues.
I just love Suby's car.

The dongle is a piece of wire with connectors on both ends,
in the event the 'magnet' leaks, it will not get past
the sacrificial 'dongle' and into the ECU, O2 sensors and everywhere else creating a huge mess.
For my car there was a service campaign and at least in the USA they will install for free.
Can't imagine it wouldn't cover you....same engine!

if not you can purchase. Don't have the pn handy but it starts with 271 as in the 271 4 banger....but is used
for the M111 magnet.

The sensor is the same for my car, but where did you get that price?
My usual 25% discounted dealer price is $159 !

TrojanGabe · Nov 23, 2016

ok, i just installed the "Camshaft Hall/Position Sensor" part#0041531328 $68 from AutoHausAZ.com

Car still won't start!!

Semi-good news: P0340 "Pending OBD Code" hasn't come back on yet.

Mr. C230, do you still think the problem is the Camshaft Magnet, and not the sensor?
why?
Wouldn't that be a completely different OBD code?

Next steps:
1) Test "Camshaft Hall/Position Sensor" connector/dongle with a MultiMeter.

2) Check wires to make sure not melted, inside of this thing, anyone know how to take this part off and test it?
part # 2035460880

Any other ideas??

Subby_ · Nov 23, 2016

no start as in it cranks over but wont fire up? the camshaft magnet only engages after 2500rpm from memory so it wouldn't be that.

have you checked fuel delivery? these cars are notorious for faulty K40 relays and one of the relays on it controls the fuel pump. no fuel = no start. if possible put the car in ON and check the voltage at the fuel pump.

the fuel pump near the differential on the side where the fuel filler cap is on. need to jack up the car and remove a plastic cover, you will see it.

it could also be the crankshaft sensor but they usually dont fail like that, then tend to play up and the car stalls when its hot etc, and then restarts OK when cold.

my money is on a faulty K40 relay!

TrojanGabe · Dec 18, 2016

Subby_ said:
my money is on a faulty K40 relay!

Update:_________________________
1) I got a new battery for free (warrantied it, since the old was kept dying)

2) I bought & installed a new K40-relay.

3) I used a fuel-pressure-tester, when cranking, and it still showed 0 PSI

Theories on possible culprits_________

1) The new K40 might be DOA. I bought it at FactoryMoparParts.com (and they have bad reviews)

2) Wires cut/melted somewhere

3) Bad Fuel Pump

Plans___________________________

1) Test the new K40-relay, in my friend's SLK (or test his K40-relay in mine)

2) Test Voltage at the Fuel Pump

Any questions/comments? :help:

TrojanGabe · Nov 23, 2016

> no start as in it cranks over but wont fire up? the camshaft magnet only engages after 2500rpm from memory so it wouldn't be that.
correct; It Cranks, but won't fire up.

> have you checked fuel delivery? these cars are notorious for faulty K40 relays and one of the relays on it controls the fuel pump. no fuel = no start. if possible put the car in ON and check the voltage at the fuel pump.
the fuel pump near the differential on the side where the fuel filler cap is on. need to jack up the car and remove a plastic cover, you will see it.
K, thanks! I'll try to check "K40 relay/ fuel pump voltage" , when i can get a jack. (my car is facing up on a 10 degree hill right now, so might be difficult) (or i can try to squeeze under without a jack)

-- is there a guide somewhere on checking fuel-pump voltage?

Also, i DOUBT it's this, but i thought i'd mention it: my "low fuel" light is on, ( you know, when you are 1/8 tank left) --- so does that plus facing up a 10 degree hill create this problem? I always park there, and i never had this problem before. Plus, i can smell fuel when i keep trying to "Crank" the engine.

> it could also be the crankshaft sensor but they usually dont fail like that, then tend to play up and the car stalls when its hot etc, and then restarts OK when cold.
i thought the same as you, since that would be different OBD code, also.

> my money is on a faulty K40 relay!
Thanks again, i'll let u know, Subby! :wink

TrojanGabe · Nov 23, 2016

"How to Test Crankshaft and Camshaft Position Sensors"
ok, i tried to follow this guy's instructions (starts at 4:12 minutes for our SLK 3-wires)

Testing the Camshaft Position Sensor "dongle" (the wires coming out of the engine compartment)
(Black MultiMeter test-lead connected to Negative on car battery, Red Test-lead to touch the 3 "wire sockets" on the dongle.
I got:

11.5 Volts for the "front" wire-socket (closest to front of car) He calls the the "Constant wire"
10.5 Volts for the "middle" wire-socket. He calls the the "Signal wire"
0 Volts for the "rear" wire-socket (closest to rear of the car) He calls this the "Ground wire"

When trying to test the "Ground" (5:25 minutes on the video), i set the MultiMeter on the "Ohms Beep", and kept the multimeter's Black-test-lead on the Negative car-battery terminal.
But i could NOT get any of the wire-sockets on the dongle to "beep", by touching it with the Red-test-lead! :eek

--- So maybe the "ground wire" is melted/broken? would that prevent my car from starting?

Maybe i'm doing something wrong, but at least we found out: the "Constant-wire" is has the correct voltage (on Camshaft Position Sensor "Dongle").

This is the MultiMeter i'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/Innova-3306-Hands-Free-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B001J4RIDI

some reference info, looks like it matches the youtube video:
Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals > SLK 230 (170.449) L4-2.3L SC (111.983) (2001) > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Descri

TrojanGabe · Nov 23, 2016

Same semi-good news:
to test OBD codes:
i just disconnected my new "Camshaft Position Sensor" and tried to start the car. ---- OBD triggered IMMEDIATELY with "Pending Code P0340"

Then i "cleared" all "Fault Codes"
I connect my new "Camshaft Position Sensor" , and try to start car. --- OBD does NOT show any "Pending/current Codes"

So this means, i didn't waste my $68 by replacing the "Camshaft Position Sensor" :thumbsup:
i.e. the replacement fixes my "Pending OBD code" issue.

Also, I checked ALL the fuses. ALL good.

TrojanGabe · Nov 23, 2016

Also, This part i circled in yellow shakes A LOT when i try to start my car.

-- Could that be the problem?
-- What part is that?
-- How do you tighten it?

Subby_ · Nov 24, 2016

I have never seen that before? it looks like its emissions related. usually in that area there is a charcoal canister that traps fuel vapors from the fuel tank. it might click and make noises as a solenoid might be working in or near it.

whats odd is, that that is usually mounted in the wheel arch under the plastic trim? not sure why its in the engine bay in this instance?

very odd!

TrojanGabe · Nov 24, 2016

Subby_ · Nov 24, 2016

yes your k40 has cracked solder joints

see this picture

http://img.ctrlv.in/img/16/11/24/58366195c0e22.jpg

you need to re-solder the top 3 in the left hand corner!

as for the other part still have no idea. cant find it as a MB part!

TrojanGabe · Nov 24, 2016

Cool, i'll try soldering, Subby!

I've never soldered before, but i found a solder kit in my old toolbox.
http://img.ctrlv.in/img/16/11/24/58368b22acbf0.jpg

1) What type of SOLDER do i need to buy?

2) Do i just melt more solder on top of those cracked-solder-joints ?
3) Or do i clean it with a wire brush & 70% isopropyl alcohol first, (which i also found in my toolbox)?

4) Any guides u recommend? or is it really easy?

5) Also, do i need to do anything else besides soldering??
Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 K40 Overload Protection Relay Repair | 1998-2004 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

This guide says to spray "Electrical contact cleaner" on the posts that the Plugs touch.
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techar...ticles/Mercedes-SLK230/68-ELEC-K40_Overload_Relay_Repair/images_large/pic09.jpg

and it says to check the opposite side of the circuit board (relay side), but i'm not sure what to look for, (mine look good i *think*, but i can post a Photo)
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techar...ticles/Mercedes-SLK230/68-ELEC-K40_Overload_Relay_Repair/images_large/pic06.jpg

I can upload more photos of anything, if it helps
Thanks :thumbsup:

Subby_ · Nov 24, 2016

soldering isn't too hard. for the purpose of this you just want to heat up the joint so the solder re-flows again and melts. you can add fresh solder too.

you just get the soldering iron hot and then place it on the joint and watch it start to melt. as its melting use a bit of solder to dissolve some more.

most people use 60/40 solder thats 60% tin and 40% lead. I just use a 99% tin solder, i think it takes a bit more heat/time to melt but there is no lead in it!

cleaning the connections prior to soldering wont hurt, but not required (unless they are greasy etc.)

electrical contact cleaner sprayed on the other side and connections will make sure its 100% - not required but doesn't hurt.

TrojanGabe · Nov 24, 2016

okay, first i'll just try to re-melt the current solder, to see if that works :flamg:
(since i don't have any solder right now, and i really want to drive)

Here are other angles of my K40 Relay, btw

http://img.ctrlv.in/img/16/11/24/5836d57a66461.jpg

http://img.ctrlv.in/img/16/11/24/5836d586c763e.jpg

keyhole · Nov 24, 2016

TG - Soldering is not difficult, but you can do serious damage if you are not careful.

1. Use a 'miniature' soldering iron - especially designed for printed circuit work.
2. Use a roll of solder with the flux incorporated.
3. Wiggle the joints that look 'dry' to confirm that they are 'bad'.
4. When the iron is hot, tin the end to get a small blob of solder there, and apply 'briefly' to the bad joint. You will see the old solder melt.
5. Keep the contact with the joint to about 5 seconds to avoid damaging the component.
6. Do not overdo the resoldering, but look all over the circuit for other suspect joints. You might have to use a magnifying glass here.

Incidentally - there is no K40 relay. There is a K40 relay module that houses both fuses and several individual relays.

TrojanGabe · Nov 24, 2016

okay, i tried to solder the K40 relay-module.
But still not starting!

And now my battery is dying again, (about 3-4 years old). So that might be the problem.
Next step: i'll charge my battery or get a jump-start.

--- Also, a friend said an easy way to test if it's the fuel-pump problem, is to spray "starting fluid" into the engine (right after the MAF, in the tube?), while your friend cranks it. good idea?

--- if that doesn't work... would buying a $400 "MB Star C3 Multiplexer " from China help diagnose my problem better??
i'm stumped since there are not check-engine-lights on currently, but that ^ scanner gives more info (even if there is no Check Engine Light on)

--- Should i replace the "Crankshaft Position Sensor", since it's only $33?

Subby_ · Nov 26, 2016

the complex code scanners can read other systems like the transmission, airbag, abs, and so on. it wont give much more info than the basic OBD2 scan tool for codes.

with the car not starting now is it still cranking but not firing?

given the age of the car the replacing the crankshaft sensor wouldn't hurt, but my bet still is the K40. if you have the time touch up all joints on it.

with my K40 i did try repairing it and it intermittently kept playing up. it wasn't worth it getting stranded somewhere so i just bought a new one, wasn't that expensive.

TrojanGabe · Nov 26, 2016

Subby- Thanks for explaining the $400 Mercedes scanner, before i wasted money on it! :beerchugr:

--- 1) Where is the crankshaft position sensor located anyway, on 2001 SLK? :dunno:
--- 2) What website do you use to find location of parts?
--- Do the Facelift SLK's have a different location than this? (i see a sensor there, but the wire is coming out of the side, not the "top" as in the photo)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...echarticles/Mercedes-SLK230/21-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Positioning_Sensor_Replacement

However, this diagram shows a similar location, just with the wire coming out of the sensor's "side":
(hmmm, so maybe on the Facelift SLK's-- they just made the wire a "right angle", but the Sensor and Location remained the same)
Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals > SLK 230 (170.449) L4-2.3L SC (111.983) (2001) > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Crank

Yeh, i agree and don't *think* the culprit is the "crankshaft position sensor", but this post is confusing me:
According to this post: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r17...forums/r170-slk-class/1263021-k40-relay-circuit-associated-11.html#post13185553
"If when trying to start the car the starter motor turns the engine over, but the car just won't start .... crank position sensor is the problem, not the K40"
"If when trying to start the car the starter motor is dead, the radiator fan is on full blow, and the temperature gauge shows cold .... K40 is the problem not the crank position sensor"
"Also, When the crank position sensor and the MAF failed, the check engine light came on and there were codes which helped identify the problem. When the K40 failed, there was no check engine light."

*Remember, i have no CheckEngineLight on, & my car cranks, but doesn't start. (when my battery is charged)

Update & Plans
i haven't been near my car for a few days.

I still have to charge the battery, it keeps dying in a few days (maybe a "parasitic draw" somewhere) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0#EricTheCarGuy

I didn't solder the *right* way: i used solder from a plumber/handyman friend, without Flux!
So i'm going to buy 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin-Flux Solder, and re-do the solder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu3TYBs65FM#ChrisFix

I might just buy a new K40.
--- 3) Does anywhere have a K40 cheaper than Parts.com, $148+tax?? i think part # 1705450205

I'm going to borrow a "Fuel Pressure Sensor" to see if the fuel pump is sending fuel.

Last choice: i'll try to get under my car on the hill, to measure voltage

if i am getting "Fuel Pressure" to the engine, then i'll buy a "crankshaft position sensor"

Thanks again everybody, i appreciate any help :smile

TrojanGabe · Nov 26, 2016

Also, this might help with the diagnosis:

Remember, this problem started right after: my water pump was leaking, and car was overheating to 100 degrees
i replaced my waterpump. And now my car doesn't start.
So, possibly, the leaking/spraying water & overheating caused this "no firing" issue, that i have now

or maybe it's just a coincidence

Subby_ · Nov 27, 2016

i would say thats just coincidence.

the crankshaft position sensor is located at the back of the engine where the transmission meets the engine. its on the side where the intake manifold is. the sensor location is same for all SLK230's but the plug on the sensor is different for pre and post face lift slk.

that price looks about right. if its purchased from a reputable site then they only stock genuine parts or parts made by good suppliers. probably can get it on ebay for less but un-branded and or copy part, cheaper yes but will it last... no.

parasitic draw is easy to test but it takes a bit of time.. from memory anything under 50mA is acceptable. you hook up a multi-meter in series to the -ve battery terminal, set it to Amps (set the scale to mA), note the reading. Open the fuse box in engine and slowly pull a fuse out note the reading, but it back in and keep going until you see it significantly drop.

TrojanGabe · Jan 11, 2017

Update_________________________________
1) i replaced the Fuel Pump.

2) i towed it to a shop, and they say it's a "Blown Head Gasket". with 75,35,35,35 PSI compression per cylinder.

So the car needs a new engine, apparently. :crying

Next Step_________________________

1a) Part out the car. Best way to do that?

1b) Or find a used engine, and fix it.

Any advice?______________________
I am in Los Angeles, in case anyone wants to buy this car, or help me fix it :smile
Thanks again for your help

2001 SLK 230

"Camshaft Position Sensor" Location? for 2001-2004 SLK?

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