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Buyers Remorse -- 1984 300D turbo horror story

62K views 37 replies 27 participants last post by  RichardBlank  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

This is my first post, but I have been lurking here for some time. It's a bit too late to be asking advice, but I would like a few opinions on my situation. This weekend I purchased a 1984 300D Turbo with 230,000 miles for $3k.

I felt that I was being very thorough in my pre-purchase examination. Went under the hood and under the body to check for rust and leaks, etc. There were no fluid leaks of any kind. Rust was minimal.

I drove the car in town, and I was really pleased with the shifting and the way that the suspension and steering felt. The owner and I took the car up to his mechanic (STUPID!) I thought that this would be a good idea, especially since the guy had worked on the car in the past and was familiar with it. As we pulled up, I saw the mechanic's own sweet SD sitting out front, so I knew I was in the right place. (Wrong) We put the car up on the lift and I went underneath with the mechanic. I had him show me each component-- the only things we found wrong were

- Oil pan had been dented in slightly (Still functional, not leaking)
- Missing one of the several rubber pieces holding up the muffler
- Rear brakes were worn, we replaced these.
- Superficial rust, as noted before

After replacing the brakes. The mechanic took the car for a short drive and brought it back to the shop. Told me everything was fine, and it would be no problem for this car to make the 2hr. drive home. The mechanic charged me $80 for the used car inspection & brake replacement.

At this point, I am 100% on this car. I was so excited to take it home, I felt comfortable making the 2hr drive in it, and felt totally comfortable with the $3000 price tag. Woops-

So, after the deal has been made, cash exchanged, bill of sale drawn up, I am on the way home. Got on the interstate and then realize that I had F'ed up.

As I am trying to catch up with the flow of traffic, I realize I have not been able to reach above 60mph. WTF? These cars are built to cruise at highway speeds. At this point, I should have turned right around and beat the guys door down. Oops, didn't.

So I continue driving at a less than optimal speed. Then the real problems start. As I am taking on a hill my speed drops from 60 mph down to TWENTY mph -- on the interstate -- which was the most horrifying experience of my short life. After rounding the hill, I was able to get up to speed, but nowhere near the high speed these cars are supposed to preform at on the highway.

As best as I can describe, engine was running but it was not pulling. I could feel the turbo start, and the RPMs would rise, but the pull was weak.

At this point, I am ready to get out of the car and shoot myself. I've spent $3,080 of my own perfectly good money checking out and purchasing this car, which does not even perform the essential function of a car in that it turns combustion energy into forward motion and gets me where I need to go!

After returning home, (albeit very slowly) and unable to contact the seller (go figure) I've researched the problem.

What I am really hoping, is that the problem is with a dirty fuel filter/banjo bolt/ALDA line. I've checked the forums for similar problems and the symptoms sound remarkably similar, especially this recent thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1514863-severe-bogging-going-up-hill.html

So, if anyone has had any experience with this problem in the past, I would love to hear your story. I am sweating, hoping this is really the issue, and not something bigger.

Second only to feeling like I've wasted my money, I am terribly embarrassed to take this car to my mechanic (a great guy, who's been teaching me "The German Way") and reveal what a poor decision I've made. I just feel really dumb right now, and am hoping for some reassurance. Thanks for reading and responding
 
#2 ·
First off, odds are you haven't been overly screwed over. It does sound exactly like a clogged fuel filter or strainer. So definitely change those first and let us know what happens.
 
#3 ·
Cleaning the banjo bolt is a 10min job, so hopefully it's that. Also check the line isn't cracked. I've done that and it turned the whole car into a sled till I fixed it.

Does the engine rev normally?
When messing with the throttle linkages I left the nut that connects the rod coming from the firewall to the linkages above the Alda loose so I had no power. It pivots on 2 nuts and is connected to the STOP linkage.

Have you checked the Fuel filters? Air filter?
My inline filter got crudded up quickly.

Breathe easy as well, buddy. The mileage isn't that high, you seem happy with the overall condition. This is probably going to end up being something small and cheap to fix.
 
#5 ·
clean the banjo bolt.

there are two fuel filters. one inline one, you'll see should look like this

then another filter that looks like this

If the previous owner thought he was cool and was going to just dump WVO in there, or just completely didn't believe in basic maintence, then odds are these will be clogged.
 
#6 ·
First of all - dont panic. Be thankful you got home. You have a 30 year old car - you dont know where its been all that time. So begin with the basics. Take out the air filter, U-elbow and start it up. Make sure its not clogged in there. Then go to www dieselgiant com and follow the procedures in purging your diesel engine - except dont buy that Purge chemical yet. Use regular Diesel. That way - you eliminate the possibility of a dirty tank/strainer.

If those two dont make your engine rev better - try replacing those 2 filters mentioned in previous posts. Oh - check your oils (tranny and engine oils). Be careful revving the engine with the u-elbow removed. The above steps should get you to at least cruise to 65 MPH.

If all above fixes your sudden loss of power issue - then and only then you should worry about getting more power out of the engine (turbo health/wastegate hoses/alda)
 
#9 ·
ahahahaha found those on google.


trust me, mine isn't exactly shimmering.
 
#10 ·
Look up how to bleed air out of your Fuel Supply System and how to bleed th Fuel Injection Part of the system (between the Fuel Injection Pump and the Injectors; just loosen the Fuel Injection Line Nuts at the Injectors until you can see Fuel out of them).
Could be:
Plugged Filters (change them, if your Car runs normal for a while and reverts back you have something growing in your tank and that is plugging the filters.)

Plugged Fuel Tank Screen (drain you tank and pull the Screen with a 46mm or 1-13/16 Socket also unless the Fuel Outlet Hose looks really good change that.)

Restricted Fuel Tank Vent (Do not do this on a Full Tank of Fuel or Fuel will blow out and get on the paint; drive with the Fuel Fill Cap off; this allows the thank to vent. If that works locate and clean the Fuel Tank Vent.)

Sloppy Linkage between the Fuel Injection Pump and the Accelerator Pedal. (Locate the throttle arm on the Fuel Injection Pump and Engine not running have some one step all the way down on the pedal and see if the Throttle arm goes all the way to the Stop Screw. If not check the part of the Throttle Linkage that pivots on the Fire Wall as the Rubber and the plastic fall apart.
 
#11 ·
Other odds and ends

Check your Transmission Fluid level

The Valves need to be adjusted on this Engine as the clearances get smaller/tighter in use.

Inspect the Axle Boots and the Drive Shaft Rubber Flex Discs closely for cracks.

Check that your Oil Cooler Hoses for leaks and that they are not getting too close to your Power Steering Belt (caused by a bad Motor Mount) as the Belt can cut through a hose.
 
#13 ·
Well HOW IRONIC!!! As I was reading your story I started to laugh out loud since I thought, "Wow, this person is having the same problem as me!" And as I continued to read your story, you then quoted the forum I started when I was freaking out about my own recently purchased '84 300D... Yea, severe bogging going up hill eventually turned into severe bogging no matter what until the car died... You were lucky to get it home and not need a tow like I did!

Anyway, I just got the car back on the road today and drove it 70 miles (at 65-70mph) with NO PROBLEM! IT IS LIKE NEW! Just refer back to that forum you quoted and do what I did. I found my tank to be disgusting, and because of the dirty tank, all my NEW filters became clogged within only a week. Have someone, or yourself, remove the tank and clean it out. Although I am not sure of the overall condition of the car you bought, do not feel bad for buying it. These cars are SO COOL!! Send me a message any time and we can bond over our new experiences with our German cars...
 
#15 ·
Had something similar to this on an 85 SD I had. Everything was ok until 5 mins into a what normally would be a 20 min drive home after buying it. Car lost power like mad, was barely creeping along at 5 mph. It was dark and i was just praying to get home. Next day, opened the hood, found all the fuel lines to the injector pump were leaking, more like almost completely rotted away. needless to say, replaced those and the filters and the car was alive and well! Probably should have kept it, but decided to keep the 300 D. Good luck and don't panic like everyone else says!
 
#17 ·
replace fuel and air filters, and it should be good as new.
 
#20 ·
Filters, check tran level (engine running and warmed up on level ground).

Probably no big issue. You can swap the in and out lines from the fuel tank in the engine compartment to by pass the tank filter as well. Obviously if it runs better after that you want to get it fixed but in the mean time the car is driveable.
 
#26 ·
I know this is an old post but for anyone reading this with a similar problem, my experience may help. I bought an 87 300D and had a similar problem. Turns out my resonator was clogged. Since the original engine (W124) did not have a catalytic convertor, I was able to have a muffler shop remove the resonator. Power was restored except eventually my tranny was failing. A slight adjustment helped that. I'm beginning to have some power lag again (a couple years later) so I am going to clean my filters and see if that helps.
 
#27 ·
Flush entire fuel systems with a focus on the fuel tank. Replace all filters and fuel breather vent valve. Run for a short distance than replace inline and spin on filter again.

Make sure you put a new fuel tank strainer in, p.s. that's the fun part!
 
#28 ·
I just cleaned the banjo bolts on my 82 300D and in the process broke the line. I used 1/4" OD plastic tubing to replace it. The line is resistant to chemicals including fuel so it should work fine. I cut the old line off the banjo bolt and this slipped on it firmly even though it is slightly larger ID than the original.