Hello all,
I have a 2003 SL500 and I am having a suspension issue I can't figure out.
When I bought the car a year ago, they said the ball joint that is part of the front right strut was bad. It was a small dealer (not an MB dealer) and they said they'd fix it. They ordered a USED strut from a wrecking yard (probably not the best idea) and replaced the strut.
Now a year later, everything was fine until next week. About a week or two ago, the car started to make "arthritis" type cracking noises from the front right. Sounds like a ball join/strut mount/control arm type of noise.
I should point out I did a FULL flush of the ABC system 2 months ago. Fluid was black and is now really nice and clean. Assume the fluid in the system was 10 years old it was so bad.
So there's the cracking noise when you first back out of the garage in the morning, hit a big pothole, or make a sharp turn at speed (ie. U-turn)
Last Friday I drove the car and then parked it for the weekend. Monday AM I had the "STOP! Car too low!" in RED letters so I pushed the 'raise' button and then lowered it, and everything was fine. I did see the front of the car raise up.
Now every day when I start the car, I see the front right raise up about an inch as I back out of the garage. It's like the front right tire is in a very small pothole and I'm driving out of it as I back up.
Car drives fine, no problems otherwise. You wouldn't know other than the occasional cracking noise + the front right lowering overnight.
How do I know if this is a valve block or a strut problem??? I will look at the strut tonight and check the fluid level, but I know for sure there isn't any fluid on the ground. The underbody cover on the car was missing (the one under the engine) so I know it isn't pooling up there either.
If I check the strut and see it wet, I'll order another one. But what if it's dry... how do I know if I have a bad valve block?
I'm 90% ready to just order another strut because I'm pretty sure it will fix the problem by putting a new Arnott strut in rather than the crappy one that's there, but I don't want to spend $700 and then find out the valve block was bad.
Suspicious of that strut because I think it's 10yrs old and sat in a junkyard for a year too. I'm pretty sure it bought me another year and then just wore out.
Any thoughts?
I have a 2003 SL500 and I am having a suspension issue I can't figure out.
When I bought the car a year ago, they said the ball joint that is part of the front right strut was bad. It was a small dealer (not an MB dealer) and they said they'd fix it. They ordered a USED strut from a wrecking yard (probably not the best idea) and replaced the strut.
Now a year later, everything was fine until next week. About a week or two ago, the car started to make "arthritis" type cracking noises from the front right. Sounds like a ball join/strut mount/control arm type of noise.
I should point out I did a FULL flush of the ABC system 2 months ago. Fluid was black and is now really nice and clean. Assume the fluid in the system was 10 years old it was so bad.
So there's the cracking noise when you first back out of the garage in the morning, hit a big pothole, or make a sharp turn at speed (ie. U-turn)
Last Friday I drove the car and then parked it for the weekend. Monday AM I had the "STOP! Car too low!" in RED letters so I pushed the 'raise' button and then lowered it, and everything was fine. I did see the front of the car raise up.
Now every day when I start the car, I see the front right raise up about an inch as I back out of the garage. It's like the front right tire is in a very small pothole and I'm driving out of it as I back up.
Car drives fine, no problems otherwise. You wouldn't know other than the occasional cracking noise + the front right lowering overnight.
How do I know if this is a valve block or a strut problem??? I will look at the strut tonight and check the fluid level, but I know for sure there isn't any fluid on the ground. The underbody cover on the car was missing (the one under the engine) so I know it isn't pooling up there either.
If I check the strut and see it wet, I'll order another one. But what if it's dry... how do I know if I have a bad valve block?
I'm 90% ready to just order another strut because I'm pretty sure it will fix the problem by putting a new Arnott strut in rather than the crappy one that's there, but I don't want to spend $700 and then find out the valve block was bad.
Suspicious of that strut because I think it's 10yrs old and sat in a junkyard for a year too. I'm pretty sure it bought me another year and then just wore out.
Any thoughts?