Malcolm,

I only use OEM MB or Zerex G05. I have been in sub zero weather for days with no problems!

 

Well shoot. My apologies, but I've done some reading and I might have to open a can of worms here...
I've used Zerex G-05 on my last couple fills, and it's worked great. More info here. Digging into the literature and MSDS, it appears that the old orange MB coolant and Zerex G-05 are very similar (Mercedes orange coolant is also referred to as G-05, but I doubt they're identical). There are probably differences that fall under trade secrets and such; the only difference I found, and it may just be nomenclature, is that MB orange contains Sodium Tetraborate where G-05 contains Disodium Tetraborate Anhydrous. Maybe there's a chemist in the house?

I've also used MB coolant in the past, without issue, but avoided the blue coolant simply because I wanted to keep the same orange color. I assumed it's as good as, or possibly better than Zerex, but after digging into what's actually in it, I'm not sure. MB literature states that the blue formulation is "slightly different in that it adds more organic acid, along with its basic silicate additive." I attached that info, which I found elsewhere on benzworld. What got me wondering is that the earlier MB coolant info specifically mentions 2-ethylhexanoic acid, which the blue coolant contains where the orange did not: "Note: 2-EHA (2-ethylhexanoic acid) is a “plasticizer,” which means it softens plastics. Gaskets are made with plastic and there have been laboratory tests reported by other manufacturers, that raise concerns about coolant-sealing gasket leakage with 2-EHA." Reading up on 2-EHA, I find that it's one of the key components in DexCool. I would think that they've mitigated any concerns they originally had with 2-EHA, but it's strange that they specifically mention it as a potential concern, but have now added it to their coolant.

Because MB coolant now contains 2-EHA, and until I'm confident that its addition won't affect anything, I think I'll be sticking with G-05 in the future. I have to wonder if the changes are for the benefit of newer vehicles, leaving it just "good enough" for older models. That said, all of what Malcom has said holds true. I have yet to hear of any problems from the blue coolant, and I'm still confident it's a better choice than Prestone or cheap green stuff. Also attached is a picture of the heads off my SEC to show you what improper coolant and/or lack of servicing will do!

 

Very timely for me. This will be soon on my list of things to do on the SE.

Wondering if the composition is different over here - I was going to go with MB coolant for sure this time. Now I'll have to check it out.

I let my garage put in what they thought was suitable at the time, its pink, and still looks like its brand new. So I guess its not been a problem.

 

MB coolant or zerex g-05

 

I'll personally stick with the Zerex G05. It's easy to source, inexpensive, and we know it works well. Ford dealers have it too, it's what the older PowerStroke diesel trucks used (I don't know what the current ones use).

-J

 

My indie has a pallet of G05 on the floor of his shop. He's a Mercedes/BMW specialist and he uses it in both makes.

 

For the North American market Valvoline USA makes both the orange 05 Mercedes Benz and Zerex-05 coolants.
I have been told the only difference is the coloring agent.

 

zerex G-05 for me. Not sure what the new engines need, but I have had nothing but success with the old Benz fluid or Zerex. For cold temp, it matters the proportion of antifreeze in the system. Oldest child found out the hard way that you really need to adjust the ratio for North Dakota temps. Using 50% was not enough to keep the system from freezing up. At negative temps it ended up wanting almost a 75% blend. That allows it to be a slushy and not a solid. At least then it will flow.

 

What's better to use for MY 2005 CLK500? Zerex G05 or the Zerex G05 ready use premix one?

 

Depends on if you know how to add water to a concentrate, or if you like to spend more for convenience. :smile

 

If you're doing a flush and (re)fill, you'r going to need two gallons.

Pour half a gallon in a clean bucket, and add a half a gallon of water. You now have 50-50 premix (if that's the appropriate ratio for your climate. Adjust accordingly.)

Once you have done this, you can combine water with the remaining coolant in the jug to get the same ratio. You now have a gallon jug of premixed coolant.

When you empty the first jug, use it to mix the coolant from the second jug to the proper ratio with water, and again - you have premix!

I use a 50-50 ratio, however, I'm in Florida where freezing temperatures rarely, if ever, occur. I'll mix up the first batch in a bucket, then I end up with a gallon jug that has the proper ratio of coolant to water in it for topping off. I'll label it accordingly for the other drivers in my house who occasionally need to top off their cooling systems as well.

Dan

 

Not doing a flush and refill. Was thinking of just topping off because I got a message on my dashboard that coolant was low or check coolant level, I don't remember exactly and can't check right now what it actually says... I just wanted to top off for now... so I'm guessing the premix would suffice.... I'm in north jersey so it's rare that the actual temp ever gets in the minus range.

 

Has anyone ever tried this stuff?

How waterless coolant stops overheating & corrosion

It's waterless, hence, no corrosion.

 

Trouble is, for that stuff to work you have to get all the previous coolant out. To my eye, for our cars it looks like a solution in search of a problem. The early 603 cars couldn't take advantage of the higher boiling point anyway.

Our '12 Passat runs between 210*F and 225*F depending on conditions, using a coolant that's similar to G05. (No, it's not overheating. For some reason VW put a really hot thermostat in these cars...) I imagine the gas MB motors put less load on the cooling system than the IDI Diesels (where most of the combustion is happening inside the cylinder head), so with a good radiator cap G05 should be just fine

-J

 

50/50 coolant is just stupid unless your handicapped and can't lift the hood on your car and turn on the water at your house..

 

Tap water in many areas contains minerals and impurities that are not good for the cooling system
Use distilled water

 

Yup. I always buy full strength and mix with distilled water. I've seen arguments that "tap water can't be that bad" or "surely the additives take that into account." Some tap water may be ok; most has minerals and substances that can attack seals, leave scale deposits, cause corrosion, or all of the above. Distilled water is typically less than $1/gallon. Using tap water instead sounds like a case of "penny wise, pound foolish" unless you know for a fact your water is suitable. Coolant already has its work cut out preventing corrosion and such, but I read somewhere that Dex-Cool works well with hard water if you want to try that. Just kidding, leave Dex-Cool on the shelf or with the recycling center where it belongs!

 

We have two wells. One, the original, has a pH of about 3.8. Battery acid would probably be a better choice to dilute your coolant.

 

Hahaha!

 

Looking at the G 05 concentrate and it looks green. Shouldn't Benz coolant be blue?

 

Green is correct, maybe a yellowish tinge.

The new and improved stuff for later models is blue, but your G-05 is fine.

 

I've bought Zerex G05 twice, two different batches a year or so apart. The first was a gold color and the most recent was almost clear having a slight golden tint. Don't know what was in Ursula when I bought her but it was time for the coolant change and got the green/slightly yellow stuff out and Zerex in

Dexcool was tried in my S10 (as per "factory recommendation") and as MT said, leave THAT crap on the shelf. The "mud" that Dexcool causes is just not worth it. I ended up having to replace both the radiator and heater core along with all new hoses (one heater hose was already plugged with something resembling rocks :eek that explained why there was no heat). I took 3 days of flushing and got most of that mud out of the engine til the water coming out was running clear. The S10 got Zerex then and temps rarely reach 200 running the A/C (195 degree T-stat)

 

As Teutone had said earlier in this thread, Valvoline makes Zerex and the Genuine Mercedes Benz Coolant.

Zerex G05 and Mercedes Benz Part #: BQ1030002 or Q1030002 are the same thing [Older Mercedes Benz Coolant (Orange - G05)]. Mercedes Benz even refers to this older coolant as G05 in their system.


Zerex G48 and Mercedes Benz Part #: BQ1030004 or Q1030004 are the same thing [New Mercedes Benz Coolant (Blue - G48). Mercedes Benz refers to this newer coolant as G48 in their system.


I've attached a Mercedes Benz Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) they sent out to dealerships in 2012 in regards to the change in coolants to this post. The TSB states that once they run out of G05 coolant, they will start selling G48 coolant. The coolant will be supplied to Mercedes Benz by Valvoline.

So to finally end this debate, use Zerex G05 in your W126.

 

The problem with Dexcool is that when it mixes with oil it turns to sludge. Usually this happens in the sump, but sometimes it happens in the cooling system. Either way it's not good for the engine. That said, I used it in my GM vehicles for 10-15 years and 300,000 +/- miles with no problems, including a Duramax that was pressurizing the cooling system through the head gaskets.

 

Digging up an old thread. Need to change the coolant in my C126.

Valvoline Zerex G05 is not available locally or online.

I can get Comma Xsteam G05 - meets MB 325.3

Product | COMMA XSTREAM G05 AF CONC Concentrate Heavy Duty ethylene glycol based antifreeze for use in vans and trucks. Protects against corrosion, overheating and freezing. Typical service life of up to 6,000 hours. Safeguarded with bittering agent to help prevent accidental ingestion.

COMMA XSTREAM G05 AF CONC Concentrate Heavy Duty ethylene glycol based antifreeze for use in vans and trucks. Protects against corrosion, overheating and freezing. Typical service life of up to 6,000 hours. Safeguarded with bittering agent to help prevent accidental ingestion.

www.commaoil.com

Is this safe to use - thoughts?

 

From your link I see it is Glysantin G05, which is the BASF version. It will be fine for you. It is concentrate, so dilute with an equal amount of distilled water.

 

I am going to flush the coolant in my 560SEC soon and will be replacing the G-05 with the blue G-48

 

Why have you decided to change?

 

G05 is still more widely available at auto parts stores than g48 so I’ll continue using g05 as it’s easier to top off

 

Hmmmm… the only place here I could find G05 is NAPA. None of the other parts stores stock it. I’d be surprised if I could even find this G48.

 

You can buy G48 from Rock Auto, it is very well priced.

 

Wonder what they mean by "low pH"?

 

I don’t know what the fuss is about when you can go to the dealer and get the correct antifreeze and be sure it’s the correct blue for our cars. The red is for the newer.

 

That’s a really good make & well taken here.

My MB coolant thread was done very nearly 5 years ago and was accurate at the time.

I guess we all still have lots to think about…..
After these years, I’ll still.be using the MB W126 recommended in my cars and not looking elsewhere.

MBL