Start by reading the new member announcement, and then the stickies.

Learn to DIY or you'll be falling off the chair regularly and getting a second mortgage.

But yes, maintenance is important, or you get bigger bills later. Sort of like ignoring a little occasional tooth pain and having to pay $2,000 for a root canal instead of $150 for a filling.

That said fuel flush I have never heard of; sure it wasn't coolant flush? That's required as well on a time (not miles) basis.

 

Ditto to Greg.

Brake fluid, fuel filter and spark plugs all have a time interval also but mine went much longer than yours have, and longer than MB recommends. 80,000/8 years on the plugs/fuel filter. Brake fluid and coolant changes were close to the MB standards.

It might need an air filter but that's an easy inspection. I've never heard of the evaporator cleaning and I think it's too early for the transmission service. Based on what you told us, I'd probably just change the oil and have a close look at everything and top off any of the fluids if needed; MB approved only.

 

Personally I would change all of the fluids. Sitting parked is the second hardest thing on a car. The AT fluid has been superseded, as well. Have the connector changed at the same time.

If you're not into DIY, find a good indy. They're usually more reasonable than the dealer and most will want to keep your business a bit more than the stealer because they know there's another sucker out there if you leave.

 

Greg, what's the hardest thing on a car, hot dogging it? I'm with you there my friend and that's why none of my 3 sit for over 3 days.

dlchice, you better listen to Greg and I know deep down that he's correct. Fresh fluids and filters after 8 years can't possibly hurt. There IS something to be said for not driving a car enough. If you're lucky you won't discover anything leaking,

Good luck.

 

The single worst thing you can do to a car (other than outright abuse, like starting it cold and dropping into gear and racing away to near-redline shifts) is a bunch of short-trip driving. It's just horrific on engines and exhaust systems, and not too great on transmissions, either. That's one place where electric cars (or switchable hybrids where you can keep the engine from kicking on) are vastly superior.

 

Don't go to the dealer

do the brake fluid.
Have the oil changed.
Either yourself or at an independent mb service shop.
wait 2 years on the coolant
inspect hoses and belt.
Do the plugs yourself for about 100bucks including the 17mm boot tool.
You can easily learn this stuff and we call talk you through it.
Once again repeat after me......Don't go to the dealer.

Does your a/c work fine?
if so be sure to run it at least once a month if you drive it so very few miles.
That will keep it lubricated.
Welcome to the fold:thumbsup:

 

Sounds like lots of work to me, however given your state of depression I would be willing to buy the car from you----------what do you want for the car----as is, less the old gas???

 

jhby... what kind of offer are you proposing? You will have to make it worth my while to even contemplate giving this vehicle up. I am in it for the long haul.

 

I would never go to the dealer again. Ask them to show MB recommendation for differential oil change?
I agree the brake fluid might be the only really recommended thing.
I just restarted my motorhome few days ago. That thing is driven average 1000 miles a year and second year in the row it was sitting for full 12 months without touching. After bringing charged batteries to dry storage the 38 years old Detroit fired up on first turn. Even the house batteries not charged for 12 month did hold good charge. Motor oil is 6 years old, differential oil probably 30, AT fluid got some refreshing fluid due to leaks, but base is still over 20 years old.
Obviously air brakes got fresh air

 

I'll have to agree with ohlord on this one - sorry gregs210 and MusiKMann .

Break fluid and engine oil are the only things that I would change on this particular car. Doing any other work are way overkill. Of course, unless something didn't go right, then troubleshoot first.

 

Well, if I was just going to go to the stealer and hand them my credit card (and first-born) I might feel differently about it, too.

But particularly since I'd be DIY-ing it, I'd still do what I said.

And finances aside, from a car standpoint, is it better to have 9-year-old coolant (and other fluids) sitting in there (remember that an 02 model was built in 01...)? PS fluid? Remember all those seals in the AT and PS system are all half-dried out from just sitting, too. Same for the diff. That's why storage is so awfully hard on a car. Even if you paid a good indie to change all those fluids, you're still looking at what, several hundred dollars? To me that's decent insurance against having to replace a front pump seal, water pump, etc. prematurely.

 

Than Greg howcome the 38 years old seals on my motorhome don't leak sitting unused most of its life?

 

I would do the brake flush and change the oil if it has not been changed in two years. I have never had an issue that I can directly link to old brake fluid but I change it on all those that recommend the two year interval.

Modern coolant is good for 10 to 15 years depending on the manufacturer -- some do not list a change interval at all -- I guess they figure a component will fail first-!!

The problem with plugs is that they can be difficult to remove after they stay in an engine - but at 13k unless you have another issue -- they are fine. I can see no reason to change the transmission or differential fluid or touch the fuel system in a car with no symptoms at that millage.

Unless you have an odor -- the evaporator cleaning is a waste. Although I have seen some nasty particulate filters on cars even with low miles.

On my old cars and those I drive very infrequently I keep the tanks filled with gasoline -- On the summer cars I use Textron and I check the air filters for mice!

I always change my tires after 5 years regardless of miles -- especially the MXV4's on my two convertibles that have them.

Do you still have the original battery?

 

Everyone... Thanks for the feedback and will take into consideration on how to DIY when it comes to maintaining my vehicle as the "stealer" does charge a arm and leg for the work

 

If the OP is still reading, thank you for your question, and thank you for your patience in reading thru the replies.

The W210 enthusiasts here would sizzle to have a 13K mile car in their stable, and we enzy you. Although few (enthusiasts here (if any) could affford to pay the proper premium in sales price that your lower mileage W210 should command.

I am glad your car is doing well, and frankly, that is all to your credit.

1) Battery on long term storage/low use the battery has been one issue not mentioned. The levels should be checked, since even a trickle charger or more than occasional boost starts can sortof dry that puppy out.

2) On long term low milage use I add a can of Stabil gas additive (per can's directions) to the gas tank. Great product to prevent some of the "bad gas" issues that come up.

3) I would also choose in the garage to inflate the tires closer to the tire manuf recommendations, which are higher than the MB recommendations inside the fuel door. This helps prevent tires flat-potting, although your ride when you run the car will feel a bit harsher.

4) I would have the tranny connector plug examined for leakage, since long term seepage in a faulty connector could lead to more problems, and seepage can occur just sitting there in the garage.


It's your choice whether or not to invest in the fluid changes recommended here, to me not a huge deal either way depending on how you feel about the investment.

If you were going to change style and do a 4K-5K mile tour of the US, next week, then that is a different story.

Thanks again for your post - keep the beat !

 

In my opinion, this dealer is dishonest and is attempting to fleece a trusting customer. The dealer's recommendations are either well beyond factory service intervals or are not even on the factory maintenance schedule.
I would send the dealer's list along with a description of the car to MBUSA and my State Attorney General with a letter of complaint. We have become too complacent about these "steelers" and know to avoid them, but thousands of Mercedes owners are getting robbed by them every year.

For the record, I would flush the brake fluid and change the engine oil and oil filter.
Since I do it myself, I might also flush the cooling system. Otherwise, I'd give it another year or two.

 

in the same boat

I have a '01 with 15k miles... I stopped by the dealer to update the service booklet. Instead I was offered all the services you were to the tune of about $1500,.
Fortunately , I have one of the best Indy's around, who trained at MB in Germany. I had him do a very thorough pre purchase inspection. I bought a new set of Michelin's ( dry rot) and will do the brake fluid, and check the plugs for corrosion and that's about it. I did take a look at the battery and it say's "made in Spain" however I do not see a date on it. The catalytic converters were my biggest concern at about $1500, but they were fine.

Good luck with yours,

Regards,
DL