Be sure to check the injection pump timer ramp gear which drives the vacuum pump.

If it looks scored, pitted or damaged in any way, replace it outright.

And only use a Pierburg pump.

 

Look like I have an expensive repair, check out the photos . The injection pump timer ramps are shot, look the the vacuum pump had a melt down. Also I found the oil leak, looks like a part blew through the cover of the Vacuum pump.

Has anyone looked at using an electric vacuum pump, it seems like it would be the best way to go. I am not sure what the vacuum requirements are for this car, however I think one could find a 12 v electric pump that would work. Let me your thoughts.

My Second option is I have a MB 1989 190D that I am using for a parts car, I took the vacuum pump off that and they look the same, Actually the date code on that one is 01 (so it must have been replaced) also the injection pump timer ramps look pertly good. so maybe a I can use the parts put of the 1989, however replacing the injection pump timer gear looks like a big job.

I still think electric is the way to go. switch the parts. Curious what others think...

 

Be happy it didn't grenade the engine, which usually happens when the pump disintegrates. Consider yourself lucky.

It's actually not that bad of a job. You just need the injection pump locking tool, a new ramp gear, and a new vacuum pump.

Easy peasy

Tip: Left hand thread on that bolt

 

Sbaert -- I know, I am actually surprise it did not destroy the engine. I plan to change the oil before I get done with this repair. I see you do not recommend using a used pump, however the value of the MB just would not justify spending $300+ on parts to fix this.

Would you know if the parts out of the 1989 190D are compatible, they look very similar? That seems like an affordable solution for me. Do you know of any forum discussion on changing the injector ramp gear?

I still like the idea of an electric pump, seems like a simple solution to get this back on the road. Just fabricate a cover for the pump to seal the engine and pipe in the electric pump for vacuum. what are your thoughts on that.

 

A 1995 E300 diesel that is only worth $300 or so doesn't right, unless it is a rotten and/or rusted out basket case. Even at 300K miles, that engine is far from done. I've worked on OM606 motors pushing and 1 car over 1/2 million miles and they are far from done.

The ramp gear from the 190 could work, however I am not going to be a proponent for swapping over the pump unless it is the updated type with the sealed bearing. Also, if that donor has got over 150K miles/250K km on it then I wouldn't even think about reusing it. Just get a new Pierburg.

The updated bearing prevents this very problem from happening.

The parts from the 190 diesel are most likely compatible, but best to just compare p/n#s

Changing the ramp gear has been discussed several times before. Use the forum search engine

 

Problem solved

I found a local person that provides a complete kit to replace the mechanical vacuum pump on these older Mercedes with an Electrical vacuum pump.

Kit included a plate to install where the old pump went sealing the engine and the necessary wiring to install the new electric pump. Was easy to install. The guy said he installs these on older Mercedes before the pump goes as a preventive measure to prevent the old pump from failing and destroying the engine not a bad idea, I guess I was very lucky.

Anyhow she runs great and shifts great really amazing. I think my old pump was failing for some time and I did not realize it.

 

As a service to others, post up the particulars of your electric replacement.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

I just replaced mine and hopefully don't have to worry about it now for awhile, but could you share where you got the electric pump kit and what type it is? I have seen discussion about this before, but don't remember seeing anyone actually do it. Might help someone else. Thanks!

 

Wow, I would never do that. The brake system uses vacuum (safety issue here!) so any replacement would need to be able to supply vacuum at the same or better rate, and have same or better mean-time-between-failure as the original.

What was the cost for the kit?

 

Same thing happened to my car a few days ago got a new vacuum pump and the timing gear from the dealership $400 each. How big of a job is it to put the timing gear and what has to come off or disassembled on the car....plus how many hours labor do you think it will be for a Reputable shop to fix....thank u

 

A mechanic who is intimately familiar with MB diesel engines should be able to handle this job.

He will need the special MB locking tool to lock the injection pump as the pump needs to come out. Mark the chain relative to the injection pump so it stays in sync during reinstall. Best to use the MB timing basket.

Highly suggest you put on a new injection pump O ring while doing this job as your original is probably hard as a rock and very likely to leak upon being disturbed.

Remember the bolt on the ramp gear is left hand thread.

Keep in mind that if the pump failed, better check the bearing on the failed unit to make sure all the little ball bearings are still in place. If not, they are floating around somewhere in the engine sump waiting to get sucked up into the oil pump instantly grenading the engine.

 

Hi Sbaert

Just purchased a 1995 E300D with 318,000 miles on it, current owner has put approximately 125,000 miles on the car and has maintain it excellent (ie regular oil change etc.) however has never had an issue with the vacuum pump. He is not sure about the history of previous owners regarding the vacuum pump.

Seeing that a failure of the pump can destroy the engine, what do you suggest is the best way to check the health of the vacuum pump. Is there a way to determine it by measuring the vacuum, or is the best way to remove it and inspect it. Any Ideas?

Thanks

 

Is there any ideas how to get the bearings out of the sump ?if they didn’t get destroyed rubbing up against the ramp gear...

 

The only way is to drop the oil pan (you will have to lift the engine, or better yet remove it completely)

 

Electric solution is shit from a safety perspective, no way would I trust that.

 

You say it’s not a difficult job..Does the timing chain cover have to come off?

 

Timing cover does not need to come off, but time and difficulty level vary depending if the ramp gear got damaged or not.

IF the ramp gear is sound, then it is bolt on/off affair. If it is NOT, then you need to lock the pump with the special, use the timing basket, and get the timing chain out of the way of the ramp gear.

Top tip" make sure you rotate the engine by hand to allow the bearing to sit in the lowest part of the ramp gear during install. That spring is going to be a biatch to push in with the ramp gear at a higher point.

I highly suggest you use a new dealer supplied vacuum pump dam gasket and a new injection pump O ring as yours is probably hard as a rock.

 

My rent gear is damaged, ordered a new one from the dealer will be here in a few days $400..Just so I understand you clearly ,Even if the ramp gear is damaged the timing chain cover does not need to come off To install the new gear?

 

Affirmative.

Since the ramp gear is damaged, and if you don't know your way around diesels especially a MB, leave this job to a pro who has the necessary tooling and expertise with MB diesel engines.

Otherwise this could be a very expensive learning lesson.

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I am in no means trying to do this job myself.My car has been sitting in a reputable Mercedes-Benz repair shop for over a week waiting for the part from Germany (ramp gear ) they have never replaced a damaged gear from 1995 E300 D before .. the owner said it would be a lot easier if they didn’t have to take the timing chain cover off .. And after reading one of your posts ( Sbeart )that it’s not that difficult of a job ..that’s why I was asking if the cover has to come off... ????? u .. Your replies are greatly appreciated.. Any other advice I could pass on to the shop will also be tremendously appreciated

 

Dude, if they've never done a ramp gear on one of these cars you need to seek out a qualified shop . . . pronto . . . . before they botch it.

 

Lol..I have 1000 percent Confidence in this shop..They have been working on my car since it was new..Have been in business working on Mercedes-Benz since the 70.. just have not run into a 1995 Diesel that’s had this problem..And I have all the confidence in the world They can figure it out.. they just were not sure about the timing chain cover.. sbaert One more question ..how many hours labor do you think it will take to fix this problem?

 

...I have 1000 percent Confidence in this shop....And I have all the confidence in the world They can figure it out.. ...

^This

 

I can't answer how long it will take since I don't know how qualified the tech will be. But if they have never done a timing ramp gear, you will be paying for some of their learning curve along the way.

This link might be of some help. It is a for a OM603 instead of your OM606 but the procedure is virtually identical.

Be aware that the chain tensioner will also need to be loosened and removed, so make sure you have a new tensioner ready to go in. Reusing a old tensioner is not a smart idea.

As I said, make sure they have the locking tool and timing basket before starting the job.

PeachPartsWiki: Injection Pump Removal

 

THANK U SO MUCH !!!! I’ll keep u posted on how everything works out ..

 

Some say IP needs to come off to replace the ramp gear..Others say no.. would really appreciate your opinion on this? .. thank u

 

?? I take it u have never done one of these jobs yourself -

 

I have, multiple times . . . unlike your reputable MB shop that somehow has never done this before.

While pump removal may not be required, I always pull the pump to give me more access dealing with the chain and the ramp gear and use the opportunity to reseal the pump ( O rings and gaskets). That big O ring gets brittle and very prone to leak if the pump gets disturbed in anyway. With the pump out, best time to reseal the pump delivery valves as well.

As I said, don't bother starting this job without the special tools needed to keep the timing in sync. Besides, you are letting a reputable MB shop tackle this job. If anything, they might have to repeat this job while they learn on the job. Worst case scenario, they botch the whole thing and they are on the hook for giving you a new pump and/or engine.

As you said yourself "They can figure it out"