Search here for "codes". In there somewhere, they tell you how to pull the codes and then clear the codes.
I went through the same thing. It is fairly easy to clear the codes. You may have to clear them more than once.

 

I think the clear the codes thing has to do with the older SLs. Your 1997 needs to have the stuff reset, but all you need to do is get in the car, turn the key to pos. 2, hold the window buttons in the up position for five seconds after they have rolled up all the way, and then start the car and turn the steering wheel to full lock left, hold five sec, full lock right, hold five sec. The first should reset the windows, top roll bar, the second should reset the ASR etc. Good luck.

 

Wannasl, Thanks for the help. I got the windows to reset with no problems but no luck with the rollbar and top. Any other ideas?? I would sure appreciate any help I could get with this one..I would hate to take it to the dealer for them to skin me $300 to do something simple.

Thanks, Eric

 

The thing I don't like about '96 and newer cars is that you need an expensive scan tool to reset codes for the top controller. If this were a '95 or older model, all you would need is a paper clip.

Eric, you almost certainly are going to have to take the car to a pro and have the code(s) reset. I was in your situation with a '96 and my dealer charged me a full labor hour to do this 5-minute task. You may find an independent who will charge nothing at all. At any rate, I would establish up-front that all you want is the code reset and you expect to be charged no more than 1/4-hour for labor.

 

This is very important to this entire Thread!

The thing I don't like about '96 and newer cars is that you need an expensive scan tool to reset codes for the top controller. If this were a '95 or older model, all you would need is a paper clip. Eric, you almost certainly are going to have to take the car to a pro and have the code(s) reset. I was in your situation with a '96 and my dealer charged me a full labor hour to do this 5-minute task. You may find an independent who will charge nothing at all. At any rate, I would establish up-front that all you want is the code reset and you expect to be charged no more than 1/4-hour for labor.

I think the saddest part of this entire thread from start to finish is that the first post starts out asking about a MY97 then people started answering how to reset Roadster Softtop-RST controllers on cars that are older than 1996 and it has added ALL KINDS of confusion to the answer for those people who have 1996 and newer RST controller's.

From, I believe, 9/95 controllers the DTC are erased with a MB STAR Diagnostic System unless you are an Electrical Engineeer like Bob Terry and know the various R129 years. Believe me when I say it has taken a lot of reading on my behalf to understand only a little bit of what Bob has given us.

MY95 and OLDER DTC's can be erased manually with a paper clip. Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1324795-r129-soft-top-controller-roll-bar.html for that method. If you read this thread you will notice that I tried my best to segment the Post into various years.

 

Bob, Thanks for the reply..I sure appreciate the help. What are the chances that the soft top control module is out? Ive been told different things from different people (depending on what they are trying to sell me). Any help would be great..Thanks, Eric

 

Same thing happened to me. Took the car in to a bodyshop with no problems on the soft top. It came out with errors and the chiming. I too am getting conflicting stories but the Merc garage are saying that I need to replace the controller. I am resigned to having to do this. So it sounds as if it is possible that you will have to replace it.

 

Yeah..might be. Im taking it in today to see about the codes and I guess I go from there. I did find a place that sells rebuilt controllers for $450/exchange..so thats good news. I think the dealer wanted $1300 or something crazy like that. Thanks for the reply!

 

Finally got this handled. Took the car to a local shop that is good with Mercedes and they cleared the codes and everything is perfect now...cost me 1 hour labor charge and came to $73 or something. Thanks to everyone for your help and advice..Hope I can return the favor someday!

 

I've tried that guy but his waiting list is quite long for a rebuilt controller. The chiming is driving me mad though.
Does anyone think it is worth me taking it to another garage? Even though the garage I took it to are saying it needs a controller, it works perfectly apart from the illumninated switch and the chiming. Everyone else seems to just reset the codes when this happens and it goes away. I get the feeling they could be stringing me along a bit?? But then I don't want to waste any more money than i need. What do you all reckon?

 

hi
interesting post.
im trying to reset any codes i have at the moment
i have a 1995 sl600. how do i reset the codes with the paper clip? might save me a few quid

cheers
dave

 

Ok I have to ask - I own a 95SL and I need to replace the battery. Anticipating code problems, how does one "reset" with a paperclip? Thanks, Bill

 

When clearing the codes on the top controller, be sure to clear the codes at least twice. Just keep going through the clear/erase sequence over and over until you are down to one flash. One flash = OK. That's just the way it works.


Roll Bar Codes and Reset Procedure.

To recover: Short pin 7 to ground (Pin 1) with LED + to pin 16 (+12V)

Code 1 = No faults in system.
Code 2 = Roll Bar Control Unit
Code 3 = Voltage Supply
Code 4 = Driver Seat Belt Lock Relay (K18/2) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 5 = Passenger Seat Belt Lock Relay (K18/3) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 6 = Roll Bar Deployment Solenoid (Y57/1) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 7 = Left and/or right rear axle switch open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 8 = Roll Bar Warning Lamp
Code 9 = Roll Bar Warning Lamp and/or impulse counter held too long to erase malfunctions
Code 10 = SRS Control Unit



Mercedes Soft Top Controller Reset Procedure.

At diagnostic connector (under the plastic cover at the hood-up switch) on
the passenger side near strut mount.

To recover codes for the soft top controller:

Connect shorting switch between pin 1 and pin 10

Short 2 to 4 seconds to read error code.
Lamp in top switch will flash out a number of pulses.

Short 6 to 8 seconds to erase error code.

Some codes must be read twice before they will erase.


The codes that will suspend operation of a soft top on the early R129 are 21, 22, 26, and 30.

A code of "1" indicates no faults and no hard top in place, while a code of "20" indicates no faults and the hard top is assumed to be on the car.

3.= Limit switch, right locked ,soft top storage compartment cover.
4 = left compartment cover closed switch
5 = right compartment cover closed switch
6.= left front latch switch.

10.= left rear latch switch.
11.= right front latch switch.

16 = roll bar retracted switch
17 = Left window failed to lower (limit switch open)
18.= Right window failed to lower (limit switch open).

20 = Hard top installed, no faults.

23 = roll bar control unit not functioning.

25.= contradicting inputs.

27 = insufficient voltage
28.= Speedometer signal is missing.
29.= Wheel speed from ABS control module missing.
30 = Top operation disabled (due to #29).

 

Roll Bar Codes and Reset Procedure.

To recover: Short pin 7 to ground (Pin 1) with LED + to pin 16 (+12V)

I am having some problems with clearing the roll bar codes.. can someone pls be a little more specific with this procedure? short pin 7 to pin 1 with 2 wires (+ and -) of the LED?

or short pin 7 to pin 1 with a paperclip (direct short), and connect the neg wire of the LED to pin 1 (ground) and + wire of the LED to PIN 16?

also, when doing this, do we observe the flashing of the top control switch inside the car? or is the LED supposed to flash (the one used to connect to the pins)?

I tried, but have not been able to get a error code to flash yet for the roll bar. I am successful in getting the top error codes to flash and clear though. but i think i am still having problems with the error codes of the roll bar which is preventing the top from operating properly. Is this an correct assumption?

 

QUOTE"
To recover: Short pin 7 to ground (Pin 1) with LED + to pin 16 (+12V)


When I did mine, I did not need the LED. All you need to do is look into the passenger compartment and watch the soft top switch. It will flash the codes.

The connecter is on the pax side engine compartment above the wheel well. At least on mine it is.

 

Welcome to the R129 Forum. Please read the STICKY's at the top of the Forum. Many of these questions have been answered in the past like http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1324795-r129-soft-top-controller-ultimate-thread.html and http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1354005-what-do-r129-dead-battery.html

Thanks for your understanding!

 

Hi Bobterry99,

Thank you for your response.

Of course I don't have my notes with me at work. I will check when I get home.

Do you have any idea why the new controller would not have any codes? Also, every time the roof stopped working, it was part way down. Is that now they normally quit?

I appreciate your assistance.

Cheers,

Mike Bennett

 

Thanks bobterry99.

I have ordered the switch, it will be here Wednesday.

I will let you know how we make out.

Cheers,

Mike

 

We installed the switch with interesting, read confusing, results.

With the replacement controller (version 7.61 if that makes a difference), the roll bar will go down before it tries to do anything. It is weird, when you go to lower roof it is totally inconsistent; sometime the front will unlatch, sometimes one window will go up the other down. Is there some process to get the controller to zero or something? We are still are not able to get any fault codes out of the thing as it stands. bobterry99 thinks it may be toast.

We reinstalled the original controller (version 7.60) and are unable to clear the codes on that one and the top does not move at all.

My brain hurts. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

What is the M-B part number for your new and old soft top controller?
It should be something like p/n 129 820 0097.

 

Hi Lynn,
Thanks for the response.

They both have the part number 129 820 00 97

The original has a number below the part number that reads 909 589 731. The second one has the number 0909 0589 731-898.

Cheers,

Mike

 

The codes are 16, 23 & 25. Perhaps I am doing something wrong when trying to clear them.

 

You might try reading all three codes and then read and erase each of them.

I'm sending you a PM, Mike.

 

Thanks to everyone who has posted info on this topic. I would like to report how I resolved the same problem, in hopes it will help someone. I have a 1996 SL500 and I had the hardtop on. My battery was dead so I jump started my car, not knowing that was a bad idea. I should have used a trickle charger instead. After I started the car, the red light for the top control was flashing (I don't know how many times in sequence) and the roll bar switch was illuminated, and neither the roll bar or hardtop buttons did anything. I read all of the posts here and tried many things, including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I finally found the diagnostics control plug on the driver's side (above where your right knee is if seated in the driver's seat). I tried the paperclip cross connects between pin numbers 7 and 1, and cross connecting with pin 16, and I tried 10 to 1 to 16, and many other combinations, none of which did anything. My local dealership wanted to charge me $135 just to look at it and I was afraid they'd lie and say I needed lots more than I actually did, so I kept trying to figure this out myself. I finally got it working! First my windows were not properly aligned with the top, but I rolled them down with the window switches and then back up and that reset them correctly. Then instead of a flashing red light on the top switch, it became lit solid, but still not working. Then I used an allen wrench on two screws under the sun visors (each under a small plastic plug). Rotating the screw about 1/4 turn, the top unlatched first on one side, then the other. I forgot which direction I turned it, but it seemed one was opposite from the other, and it was obvious by feeling which way the screw was willing to turn. A friend helped me so that we held the top up a bit so the front latches wouldn't relatch, and we were able to lift the hardtop off. Then I tried the top control switch and it is working fine. It is still illuminated all the time, even though it's working, however, the roll bar is not working and the lights on the rollbar are also constantly illuminated. I still have to figure out how to reset the rollbar so it works again, but at least my ragtop goes up and down perfectly again. I am so grateful to all the ideas and tips here, and really glad that I didn't have to have the dealership do this. If anyone has an idea for how I can get my rollbar to work, I'd be grateful, because I think the lights will reset after it is working.

 

1996 SL500 RST- soft top and roll bar

I have a 1996 SL500 and I had the hardtop on. My battery was dead so I jump started my car, not knowing that was a bad idea. I should have used a trickle charger instead. After I started the car, the red light for the top control was flashing (I don't know how many times in sequence) and the roll bar switch was illuminated, and neither the roll bar or hardtop buttons did anything. I read all of the posts here and tried many things, including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

Welcome to the R129 Forum and thanks for reporting back to us after trying it yourself.
First of all it's OK to jump start your car according to MB per your Owners Manual. The bottom line is that you always connect the ( -)negative pole last. Somewhere along the line your soft top controller that also controls the roll bar thru a DTC= diag. trouble code. On your car the best way to reset the controller is call an INDY and ask him how much to reset your RST controller via his STAR Diagnostic System to your 38 PIN connector in the engine compartment, passanger side, rear corner. Cost $50-$75.00.

I finally found the diagnostics control plug on the driver's side (above where your right knee is if seated in the driver's seat). I tried the paperclip cross connects between pin numbers 7 and 1, and cross connecting with pin 16, and I tried 10 to 1 to 16, and many other combinations, none of which did anything.

The diagnostic plug that you found is the OBD II plug under the driver side dash. This is used to scan the engine components so you can determine if you need to look at O2 sensor's, etc. NOT for the RST and roll bar controller.

My local dealership wanted to charge me $135 just to look at it and I was afraid they'd lie and say I needed lots more than I actually did, so I kept trying to figure this out myself.

They were probably going to charge you the min. hourly charge to connect there STAR Diagnostic System and reset all of your DTC's which probably would have reset your soft top and roll bar lights.

I finally got it working! First my windows were not properly aligned with the top, but I rolled them down with the window switches and then back up and that reset them correctly. Then instead of a flashing red light on the top switch, it became lit solid, but still not working. Then I used an allen wrench on two screws under the sun visors (each under a small plastic plug). Rotating the screw about 1/4 turn, the top unlatched first on one side, then the other. I forgot which direction I turned it, but it seemed one was opposite from the other, and it was obvious by feeling which way the screw was willing to turn. A friend helped me so that we held the top up a bit so the front latches wouldn't relatch, and we were able to lift the hardtop off. Then I tried the top control switch and it is working fine. It is still illuminated all the time, even though it's working,

When your battery is dead you need to resynch your windows, ESP, Radio code, etc.

however, the roll bar is not working and the lights on the rollbar are also constantly illuminated. I still have to figure out how to reset the rollbar so it works again,

There is an easy fix for all of the rest and that is a RST contoller reset with the STAR Diag. Sys.

but at least my ragtop goes up and down perfectly again. I am so grateful to all the ideas and tips here, and really glad that I didn't have to have the dealership do this. If anyone has an idea for how I can get my rollbar to work, I'd be grateful, because I think the lights will reset after it is working.

Here is the bottom line. Please read the third Blue Sticky from the top, on this, the R129 Home page. I have tried to save everyone a bunch of time by pulling together all of the FAQ's.

 

Is your roll bar current in the UP or Down position ?

 

My rollbar is in the down position. My hardtop is removed. The rag top works going up and down and is currently down. The switch to control the top is solid red lit. The roll bar switch is also solid red lit.

 

Have you try re-sync the windows ? Put the top UP, close the doors, push the windows up button and hold for 10 sec after they hit the top. Then play with the roll bar button to see if it works.

 

Roll bar lights on, not working. Down position.

I appreciate all of the info and tips here. Some of you are very willing to share your knowledge and I am grateful. Since I was able to get my hardtop off with an allen wrench, and my softtop is working fine now, I hope to get my roll bar working again. My goal is to not have to go a stealership or even an Indy shop to get the solid lights on the rollbar switch to turn off and to make the rollbar work again. Since my top works fine without paying the shop to reset my controller unit, I am hoping to find a way to reset it myself. I have read all the stickies and read all the posts on this topic in the thread several times. Nothing works for me so far. I've resynched the windows, tried holding any button I can find in the up or down position for even up to 30 seconds, turning the wheel etc, but nothing works. If I could find the top control unit plug, are there specific pins to cross just for the rollbar? Where is that plug? Is it the same thing as the Star diagnostics plug under the engine compartment? I've looked inside the car on the passenger side under the carpet on the firewall and I don't see it. Mine is a 1996 SL500. Any tips before I finally resort to going to a repair shop? I hope to fix it myself. It's a matter of pride, principle, and er... money.

 

I hope to get my roll bar working again. My goal is to not have to go a stealership or even an Indy shop to get the solid lights on the rollbar switch to turn off and to make the rollbar work again. Since my top works fine without paying the shop to reset my controller unit, I am hoping to find a way to reset it myself.

I have read all the stickies and read all the posts on this topic in the thread several times. Nothing works for me so far. I've resynched the windows, tried holding any button I can find in the up or down position for even up to 30 seconds, turning the wheel etc, but nothing works.

If I could find the top control unit plug, are there specific pins to cross just for the rollbar? Where is that plug? Is it the same thing as the Star diagnostics plug under the engine compartment? I've looked inside the car on the passenger side under the carpet on the firewall and I don't see it. Mine is a 1996 SL500.

I really want to help you by making this as clear as possible. If in fact you have read ALL of the information that is in the third Blue Sticky on the R129 Home page you would NOT have tried many of the things that you have done here.

I'm fearful that you may have fried a portion of your RST controller by connecting /reconnecting your battery unless you did it correctly by adding the negative terminal connection last in every instance.

A >9/95 controller handles the soft top and the roll bar. You should have charged the battery out of the car then inserted it after you where absolutely sure that the battery reads 12.7 volts. If the battery is old and on it's way out this could be a part of your problem if the charge is <12.7 volts. BTW, I only retract my RST when the engine is running. But it can be done with a known strong battery.

If your battery and controller are still OK then you will have to pay an INDY to erase the controller DTC's with a STAR system. Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/1820225-post9.html

If you would like to know where your controller is located please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1370005-hardtop-manually-closing-problem-1995-a.html

Please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r12...g/forums/r129-sl-class/1404049-remote-soft-top-controller-p-ns.html#post3117858 for the controller p/n's and repair facilities if necessary.

This is the location of a right hand drive car's 38 PIN diagnostic port at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1315950-diagnostics-later-cars.html#post2354005 Just look on the rear backside of the passenger side engine compartment for the same thing. Note: I wouldn't start poking paper clips in there unless you know what your doing.

Please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/2371141-post7.html for what you will want to do in the future when your battery dies.