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Merry Christmas to me! Got me a new radio, which looks exactly how a radio must look.

Gear shift Vehicle Car Steering part Motor vehicle
 
Fixed my driver's door side mirror. That dang spring retaining hook broke. Used JB Weld & a stainless 4mm screw, 'fender' washer and hex nut. Packed the housing hollow with JB Weld, and inserted some aluminum welding wire cut pieces into the JB Weld around the screw to act like rebar in concrete. That should fix it forever! Note the big washer behind the nut on the back side.

Bumper Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Auto part Bag


Train Bumper Motor vehicle Gas Automotive lighting


Also, I changed the PCV valve and all hoses, and all the breather hoses and oil separator.
They were all hard like plastic.
The PCV small hoses on the top of the tee that go into the nipples on the manifold broke off just before the tip of the nipples.
Took 2 hours to get the hardened pieces unglued from the barbed nipples.
Here are a few tips on getting this done less painfully:
1. remove the oil filter and cover the opening.
That allows you access to the left side upper hose that goes into the mannifold.
2. Use long reach bent tip needle nose pliers and a flex shaft mirror + headbeam to get to that nipple to clean it.
Also makes easy access for plugging in the new hose.
3. Use battery pliers to get to the other nipple. They have a sharp edge and reverse bevel so they grab that hard plastic and 'nip' it into pieces.
4. Use a paint can opener tool or a body plug popper to grab and pry the plastic off the nipple.
5. The PCV retaining clip (it's a 'C' loop) broke off the aluminum mount, so I used 2 zip ties to secure it.
First push out the push pin that spreads the barbs, then thread the small zip ties through that hole.
6. You have to do everything with one hand!
7. A headbeam works wonders for getting light to see what's going on and what you're doing.
8. You have to get to the right hand nipple from underneath.
9. You have to remove the splash cover to get to the big PCV hose
10. Unplugging the oil level sensor and pushing the wire aside makes more room to do all the work.
Installation took about 10 minutes after everything was cleaned up (PCV valve, big hose and 2 small cut pieces at the 'T').
 
I did a mod on my wiper nozzle system.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Actually, I redid the mod, as the previous inline filter is well and truly done. No matter how hard I try to blow it in either direction, nothing is getting through anymore. Still, it kept my nozzles unclogged for 11 years, all for an initial cost of less than US$2.50

Nickel Gas Machine Metal Aluminium
 
Gave her the ol' Spit 'n Polish. She's my commuter this week.
 
Re-foamed both front door and rear deck speakers, and glued-up both triangular tweeter speaker covers and large rear deck speaker covers.
Bass, treble, mid-range...all of it 'much better than new'.
Sounds amazing!

Update: Tweeter covers reinforced w/copper wire strands (like rebar in concrete).
Used WestMarine high-strength plastic epoxy.
Great stuff! Here's some some pics:
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The paper clip is a substitute for the broken and missing plastic hook clip.
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The light line across the valley is where it broke. The catch clip broke off. But I got it positioned back so it's perfect.
All parts were glued with cyano (super) glue before the epoxy job.
Also, 2 small dabs of black silicone on 2 opposite spots on the tweeter to the housing kept them from rattling.
 
I got my car treated to a proper rooflining repair, with a gear lever boot thrown in for free! And my dad treated me to a polish and wax to get rid of the W202's brown-stained paintwork. She has never been this white since I bought her! Too bad the photos I took wouldn't do her justice.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Car
 
After reading forums I realized that not many people have simply spray painted their grilles, so I removed the plastics section and sprayed it chrome. additionally, I purchased the 30$ clear eBay corner lights, and I think the front end upgrades look good
Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Car Land vehicle Vehicle registration plate

Wall Wood Gas Manhole Road surface

Automotive parking light Wheel Car Land vehicle Tire
 
SEQUENTIAL TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS INSTALLATION:
I installed sequential switchback turn signal lighting in both corner lamps as well as inside the headlight housings. I'm sure the purists out there are probably wrinkling their noses at this mod since it's a deviation from stock - but dang, I like the way it looks. The sequential LED strips are INSIDE the headlight housings. All in all, it only took me a couple of hours to do but truth be told, this is my third time doing this - the previous two installs had to be re-done because individual LED's within those strips started to fail. This last kit (bought on Amazon) is by far the best and easiest kit to work with.

Link to video on Google Drive:
 
LOL! Brilliant!
How did you separate your headlight assembly, and then glue them back together waterproof?
Which LEDs did you buy off Amazon?
Removing the lenses of the headlight assemblies was a relatively easy and straightforward affair: First off, they're made of glass (a rarity to see, certainly not the case on the newer Benzes or any other make for that matter). The assemblies are held in place by 3 screws/bolts. Once removed the lenses are then held onto the headlight housings with 6 metal clamps that easily pry right off. The tricky bit is the rubber gasket that sits between the glass lens and the housing. There is a groove in the leading edge of the housing in which the rubber gasket sits. Separating the lens from the housing can sometimes result in the rubber gasket ripping. But if one is careful and proceeds with caution then even this too can be avoided. The key is going slow, taking your time and being methodical. A deft touch is the best approach (with this job and in life, generally speaking). Once you gain access to the inside of the housing there is a light gray rectangular surround that easily unclips from the housing (it's more of a trim piece as it doesn't serve any mechanical purpose - it's purely for aesthetics). It was onto that gray surround that I affixed the sequential light strips. It really wasn't a tough job to do at all - primarily because the lenses are NOT glued. These glass lenses were designed to be replaceable - god bless M-B. I've already replaced my lenses once or twice if/when they got cracked or pitted. I'm very please with the way this turned out.
 
It really wasn't a tough job to do at all - primarily because the lenses are NOT glued. These glass lenses were designed to be replaceable - god bless M-B. I've already replaced my lenses once or twice if/when they got cracked or pitted. I'm very please with the way this turned out.
Thanks for this info!
Sounds simple and easy!
Which LEDs did you buy that you consider good quality?
 
Here is a link to the set that I bought. They come in 24" length but can be cut. If cutting them, see my tutorial on Amazon under the Q&A section for that product:

 
Here is a link to the set that I bought. They come in 24" length but can be cut. If cutting them, see my tutorial on Amazon under the Q&A section for that product:

I just took a look at my headlight assemblies.
They need cleaning inside, so I'm gonna remove the lens anyway to clean them.
At that point I can add the LED strip.
What I'm wondering is where you routed the wires so you can connect them outside of the light assembly?
Also, did the LED strip press against the glass or push down on the internal plastic bezel?
It gets real hot in there w/the HID's on so I'm wondering if you have any problems with the wire coatings melting?
 
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