you could rebuilt your oil cooler lines or went oem from dealer, I just replaced my oil cooler lines not to long ago,

 

This morning, the 2-21/2 years old Rein transmission cooler line decided to shoot out its clamp into the universe and dump about 3 liters of fluids on our garage floor. Fortunately our daughter got out to get something from the fridge and noticed the puddle on the floor and shut off the engine immediately.
I clamped the line back with stainless steel pipe clamp and refilled the transmission fluid and still fuming of the lack of quality of a supposedly reputable brand. It could have resulted the total loss of our beloved truck.

Thanks for heads up. My ML320 needs a set. I may go with genuine or fix it myself.

It is not clear from your pictures what has failed. Did hose slipped from under the ferrule? Or ferrule slipped of metal pipe?

 

The fitting I marked with the arrow simply came off, the ferrule was on the ground in the puddle and the hose was just hanging. I may take out the entire assembly the next time I change the oil and re-clamp all the connection points. I used a regular stainless steel hose clamp to put it back and get it running again.
I thought I was doing myself a favor to buy the whole assembly from a reputable manufacturer, it is not like I bought some cheap aftermarket on ebay with a questionable source.

 

here a video somebody rebuilt there transmission oil cooler line on there ML,

 

That is our good member, David - @2000 E 320 White Wagon

 

This is scary as hell. Thank you for posting this. You are EXTREMELY lucky she didn't just drive off into oblivion.

 

Excellent heads up.
Only thing I would do different is to use a oetiker clamp.
You use that and you'll never have this problem again.

 

Zbordas:

Nice - glad to hear it's helping out folks.

10-4 on NOT guessing hose size.

There is one that is close but not tight enough.

No Bueno, long term on that choice - as some shrinkage WILL occur.

BTW, in researching this option I did find many web references to other makes of vehicles where owners successfully DIY renewed their Tranny hoses. In each case, this was the proper method.

Of course, if I still had a connection to my old NAPA store buddy where he could FAB any hose assembly, I probably would have taken my exisiting line / new Gates hose & had him crimp it up. One thing - that WOULD require total hose assembly removal from the ML.

Sadly, this option of rebuilding your Tranny hoses only works for those in rust free areas.
In the rust belt, I've heard the metal goes south before the rubber, lol.

Cheers - David

 

Also, FWIW, one modification to my Youtube video - which I just watched again almost a year after doing it.

I did go with a typical screw clamp + the Fuel Injection clamp. I put the FI clamp closest to the hose end & then the screw clamp after it, towards the longer run of hose.

Why ? Those fuel injection clamps are VERY tight but they can slip as they're smooth metal.

Whereas the screw clamps can't as the tiny grooves the screw runs in provides a grip factor onto the hose surface. Making that one the outboard clamp means the FI clamp can't slip sideways at all.

Hope that makes sense.

David

 

All clamped up, thanks for all the input. Used one injector and one hose clamp on each fittings. Some of the ferrules sat clumsy and could already turn the hose underneath them. I wish I have done this back then instead of spending $100+ on a brand new set .

 

Just wanted to double up on the Rein. The 05 ML350 SE I just acquired was leaking fluid I knew that when inspecting it, only other thing else I found wrong is a missing drivers heated seat switch. Why the whole switch is not there?

Anyway come to find out it had Rein Hoses installed in 2015 at least that is the date stamp on the rubber hose sections.
I was able to grab the hose rotate it, and slide it up and down the metal tube end.

Observations on the Rein:

The Rein did what the power steering pump hose does, it becomes looser on the fitting. Whether it expands or the wall thickness shrinks, I have no idea.

The Rein tubing ends are bulb shaped not a stepped as on the tubing in David's video which I believe is MB

The rein metal tubing is stout one advantage.

The rubber hose is Stamped 10 MM (0.39") 3/8 Gates(.375") a good tight fit. The 5/16" too small.

Rein one is one size fits all both v6 and v8 they are the same part numbers. If you have an v6 you will know it's Rein because there will be a large loop of tubing under the transmission pan.

If doing Davids repair you will need the largest fuel clamp in the O'reillys set for the Rein.

The crimp on the Rein runs the length of the tube, with the MB the width of the tube. Not positive on how this effects things but something says width is better less likely to slide off

Now for the best Part the price of the MB for at least the v6 has dropped in many cases it is cheaper then the Rein.
I have a MB set sitting in a cart right now at the crazy cheap price of 112$ with only 4 and some change shipping bad part is Shipping is 10 day plus.

So I did David's repair and will order a MB hose set just to have. I ended up repairing both front hoses so about 30$ could of saved about 5 if I purchased 3'. The Gates is running about 4.75 in my area (you can get cheaper, some national parts store are selling other brands at 1.99) and you need 14.5" for each front, I thought only the lower was leaking and it was to be a temp repair, so brought 2' got it together it was dry after a short test drive. But the upper connection hose was streaming! I either bent it and cracked it while replacing the other or increased pressure made it burst?

So my take buy the MB, my local stealer wanted 176$. So even buying a new one online 112$ and repairing the old still was cheaper.