What do you mean.. the engine turns over but does not start? The starter motor doesn't work? Did the engine when it did start run smoothly or not at all? Did your glow plug light come on after you started the van when it worked?

If you can elaborate on what problems you have been having then it might be easier to sort things out. The other thing is to remember your air filter. Changing that might be also prudent. Your poor van's got to breath. Have you tried fresh diesel in it too?

Cheers

Ad.

 

Hi There, my s 320 cdi won`t start either unless a spray of easy start is put in. However the glow light does come on after it starts? can you help?

 

Could be the pressure regulator on the fuel rail, seems it has two small O rings which decay, causing difficulty in starting and eventual non starting. My 108CDi did same thing, I suspected air in system but was advised by independent MB van specialist to start it in Easy Start ( be careful just a 2 second blast into the air intake AFTER the air filter, it will knock like the bottom end is about to go - not nice stuff ). That started the engine allowing me to drive to specialist who fixed for an hours labour and about £10 worth of parts.
Hope this helps, but don't go mad on the Easy Start, if it will not start first attempt, wait a minute or so and try again.

Regards

ZX9

 

108 CDI will not start



ZX9 this sounds like my issue

Here is my problem - what you think?

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/v-class/2473633-help-please-2001-vito-van-108-a.html

Hi all,

I am new but avid Vito owner.

I have (2001 Vito Van 108 CDI)

Yesterday, 1st noticed it took a few cranks to start, and this morning again a few more cranks on the starter, but running.

But, I thought best to have a look as on the road, I placed 3/4 tank of fuel, and same started but took longer, drove 100 km and stopped, went back to start and just turning over.

Thought fuel filter, but changed it and no go. (Same Issue)

As I had a can of areo-start fluid, placed a squirt down the air intake, and YES started.

Turned it off, and no go.

Another squirt and ran, drove 200 km and no issues, till I stopped and tried to start again.

Hit it again with Either Areo Start and ran, go back to Motel.

Now I know its not fuel issue, but a starting issue but for the life of me, do not know where to start.

When running, its fine, just the limp-mode (Nill over 3k RPM) but hit the clutch a few times and it come back to normal, I can let it idle fine, purrs like a kitten, but stop it and will crank over but not start.

Please can you suggest what to do next, running out of Either (Areo Start and we all know this is NOT good for it)

(Update) today, went to start it, just turning over, no fire, hit it again with either and trying to start but just on the squirt, so tried to tow it, and no fire at all, so, my question is does this Vito have a fuel cut-off? of so where? or is it Immobilizer issue? - If it is that can I by-pass it? I am lost now, before take it to mechanics, would like comments please?

Cheers Colin

 

Starter Works Fine And When The Van Was Running It Was Running Fine .it Started To Take A While To Start And This Just Got Worse Over A Few Days Till It Would Not Start At All.

 

i think i see where adamuk is going , did you check the glow plug relay box,is it clicking when the plug light goes out, does the plug light come on at all , these are simple things to check and eliminate.

 

Have a look at this thread mate, maybe you need to get the Cam sensor checked as this man had experienced same sort of fault, I think.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/v-class/1286887-camshaft-sensor.html


Regards
SARGE

 

sorry hijacking this thread
the "glow plug relay box "where is it and should i be able to here it clicking from inside the cab? and i was told if it starts with easy start it's not likely to be the injectors

Martin

 

Is the vehicle hard to start hot and cold?

ZX9 is correct in what he is saying, Check the o rings on the regulator on the rail, then check the injector leak off of all the injectors.

Very rarely the crankshaft position sensor?

 

If it starts with a Sniff of Easy, Then its likely to be your High pressure fuel pump. Really you need it plugging into STAR to see the Live data of the fuel rail pressure, it needs to be 225+psi to start up!

Also this would show if it was camshaft/crankshaft syncronization fault. Usually this fault is heat related, Letting the vehicle start when cold, but when hot it won't!

It could do with a Diagnostics just to see if any codes appear, or if live data gives you any bad areas.

If you get it done, post up here to give us all a better clue!

Mark

 

Hi MARK,

Thanks for your reply mark, great help!!


It is also 40ml over 1minute and a half?

Injection:
P1403 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - malfuncion. Probable Cause: wiring, connectors, hoses, intake leak, EGR solenoid, MAF sensor.
P1470 Turbocharger (TC) boost presure - pressure too low/high. Probable cause: wiring, connectors,hoses, turbocharger (TC) wastegate regulating valve.
P0100 Mass airflow (MAF) sensor/Volume air flow (VAF) sensor - circuit malfunction. Probable cause: Wiring, MAF/VAF sensor, ECM.
I am not sure with description is correct for P2204 fault it can be first (from Autodata) other from Google search. Pleas note ETC is Electronic Transmission Control module.
P2204 Nitrogen oxides (NOx) sensor, bank 1 - intermitten input. Probable cause: wiring, poor connection, NOx sensor.
P2204 External quantity control by ETC CAN reception timeout
P2204 External quantity control by ETC ENGINE STOP
P2204 External quantity control by ETC Not all CAN messages have been received.
P2204 External quantity control by ETC Read fault memory of control unit N15/3 (ETC control module).
P2204 External quantity control by ETC Read fault memory of control unit Transmission control.
P2204 External quantity control by ETC Request from control module N15/3 (ETC control module) is implausible.
P2204 External quantity control by ETC The CAN message is implausible.
P2204 External quantity control by ETC Torque request from control module N15/3 (ETC control module) is faulty.
P1636 Engine coolant blower motor control module - malfunction. Probable cause: wiring, connectors, engine coolant blower motor, ECM.
P1481 Glow plug(s) - defective. Probable cause: wiring, connectors, glow plug(s), ECM.

ESP Electronic Stability program:
C1504 signal eror/ signal variation, signal missing.

Transmission:
P2502 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping
P2503 The gear comparison is negative or the target gear is not reached.
P220A P220A - Y3/6N2-Y3/6N3 speed compare implausible
P2600 circuit voltage too low

Suspension:
Sorry at this moment I didn't found description for some suspension faults
C1026
C1122 AIRmatic: fault in component B24/4 (acceler. sensor)
C1517
C1013 terminal 30 low voltage
C1402

 

Hi, I also had this problem with non starting when cold. Had to start with easy start then for the rest of the day it would be fine. I went down the glow plug/relay route first. Anyway eventually I clamped off the return pipe on the top of the fuel filter at the end of the day and in the morning it would start, so I changed the non return valve (part no MA6110780249 £9.85 ex vat) and this seemed to fix it for a week or so. I then noticed I was getting diesel leaking from the high pressure fuel pump so I took this off tightened three screws inside the pump and put sealant all around it before replacing and it's been starting fine ever since.

 

Hi

Hi i Had the same problem i took it to the dealers they told me that the relay which is placed near the washer bottle needs changing i did that and the car works fine

 

I have a similar problem and it's completely stumped me, I have just bought a 110 CDI (2001) And it blatantly refuses to start. There was air in the diesel rail but I got rid of that, glow plugs are working fine,diesel seems to be getting round the system. But I'm not positive that the diesel is getting to the injectors.

It's had a new battery and new starter motor (they were known problems when I bought it) It's just getting annoying now because they're is so many possibilities(!!!) I really need some help on this one if anyone can???? I've not even heard it run yet.

 

Hi ya, to check if there is diesel at the injectors just crack one of the diesel lines to the injector and crank the engine, you will see diesel shoot out. The other problem i have had that stopped the van was a loose electrical connector on one of the injectors, even one loose connection will stop all injectors working

Cheers Martin

 

When I had starting issues I had a new battery, new starter and neither sorted it. I then had a look in the fuse box and there was some greening from moisture around a lot of the contacts. Took it out and cleaned it up and haven't had a problem since.

regards
Phil

 

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/v-class/2476505-108-cdi-fuel-shut-off-pics.html Props to Zbooh

 

Hi Thought I would post here, Had a problem where van would not start, would crank but not fire, I could rock it in gear or spray startgas and it would start then run fine for a while 1 day , sometimes 10 days.... Then It would not start after you had driven for about 10minutes and stopped for a while, you would need to wait 30minutes then it would start. Then one day it cut out while driving, Would start after 30 minutes. Long story Short it was CRANK SENSOR FAULTY. Also changed the Cam Sensor. The Cam sensor could cause no start but the cam sensor can be disconnented while engine is running and motor would still run, The Crank sensor however would cut the engine straight away if disconneced or if moves more than 5-6mm away from flywheel teeth. So far van has not cut out after replacing the Crank sensor.
So what happens is the Crank sensor breaks down internally then it goes open circuit when hot and cuts out. Vehicle is a CDI110 Vito 2002.
Hopefully this helps someone one day.

 

vito2002

ZX9 the star man , thank you so much ,was indeed the regulator 4mm seals preventing from starting