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Unimog FLU 419 Turbo build

11K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  TRUKTOR  
#1 ·
My brother picked up a military FLU419 last year at the GOV PLANET auction. He chopped and disposed off all the heavy farm parts (loader, back hoe, stabilizer arms) and hasn't messed with it much since. truck has 1600 miles on it. I was able to play with it during Xmas and fell in love with her. I bought the Mog and will be getting her delivered from Utah to my home in Fresno California next month. Im going to drive it to work sometimes to make my co workers angry and will play with it in the mountain snow in the Sierra Mountains by Fresno.

First plans are to have it painted, put new 47" army tires on her, and TURBO. Ive been reading and Ive got the turbo figured out (not first one Ive done). Question is this: Does the motor in the FLU419 have the oil squirters?? its a model year 89
 
#3 ·
I don't think you have squirters but I bet the block is machined for them. Scott at Expedition Imports is selling new 419 blocks and 1 of the pictures shows plugs in the oil galley. Let us know how you're doing with the turbo install.......I'm trying to figure out how to do it without lifting the cab
Goodluck with your Mog!
RMontez
416.141
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
OIL-LESS TURBO IS THE PLAN

read the thread. glad it worked out. have you had any problems with the truck since you turbod it?

And Thank Rmontez for the tip on the blocks for sale. I took a look. Good deal. more work than I want to do for this. If there was a way to put on squirters by removing the oil pan Id do it. I don't want to pull the motor.

This Mog is cool and I want to wheel it and I don't want the turbo project to become a long install. I turbod an 80 series on pirate4x4https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/turbo-build.88793/

On that project I made my own manifold and it made it a couple years before it cracked. I may put the turbo on the side of the block like its supposed to be done but what im mostly considering is getting one of those new oilless turbos and putting the turbo remotely behind the cab. then I caould run the charge pipe from the turbo--then under the cab---right over the exhaust manifold on the drivers side of the block--- and right into the stock intake manifold with a 90 degree silicone elbow. I would need to remove the radiator overflow bottle and would need to put the airfilter back behind the cab by the turbo. here are the advantages of using a remote oiless turbo:

1. I don't need to remove the exhaust manifold
2. don't need to plumb any oil supply and don't need to worry about oil pressure drain from the turbo.
3. don't need to lift the cab

DUMB IDEA??
 

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#12 ·
Thanks for the tip. Didn’t think of that

This turbo exhaust manifold for core parts is $984
https://corepartsmb.com/shop/unimog416/intake-exhaust/exhaust-manifold-om352-turbo/

This one is 845$
https://www.eurotruck-importers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1340

A Holset HX35 is $800
https:https://www.maperformance.com/colle...4-02-bolt-in/122851225449?epid=700882531&hash=item1c9a80ef69:g:dEUAAOSw75xa95Jv

Again, why not just skip replacing the exhaust manifold and all the fab mess and use a oilless remote turbo???
 

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#14 ·
The OM352a turbo manifold used on the Turbo UNIMOG is NLA.

The rest is just my opinion:

If you want to off-road it, consider swapping a 416 read driveshaft and move the spring perches to the very rear of the chassis. The 406/419 is too now heavy and too short. Good for tractor work, bad for hills.

The 15.5R20 tires are too big to fit on a SEE in many peoples view. 14.5R20’s are a nicer fit.

I love the fun of building and having some extra HP, but I am not sure how much benefit there is on a 419 trail rig. Even a juiced up OM352a won’t generate enough wheel speed to clear the tires or goopy mud, and the gears let you put torque to the earth beyond reason.

No saying don’t do it, but I would spend my $$ on wheelbase extension, cab comfort improvements and noise reduction, and axles maintenance needs first.

I like the way that manifold turned out.

C.
 
#16 ·
I typed a longer version. But it didn’t post.

The SEE IP will support 130-140 hp naturally aspirated. Even if it is only a 8.5mm plunger pump. The two I have seen were 9mm elements.

The 10mm plungers help to reduce the injection duration at higher HP, but I was told by my Bosch guy that they are not needed, even when fueling at 240hp.

The OM352, like most diesels (but worse), is limited by air, not fuel.

It is not and will never be an engine that someone would put in a rock buggy. Now a tugboat...

C.
 
#17 ·
The black machine is my rock racer. We call her “the last starfighter”

Like suggested, I briefly considered the idea of freeing up the rear axle in order to let the rear end flex. But also like suggested, we found the 419 is just too short to play in the rocks unless it is also stretched at leaste 5 feet. My little brother drove the 419 through a trail called “the maze” in st George. Anyone who has done this trail knows that the Far East side of the trail is no joke. He would often times back down the steep obstacles as shown in this pic I took. He almost rolled multiple times. I wish u could see the video I tried to down load above of him almost going end over end while coming down steep stuff. The gearing is great in the rocks.

I won’t use the 419 as a hardcore rock crawler but will I will be the hero at snow runs and she will be fun to drive around town. Can I reasonably get a tire larger than 395/85r20 on her (47”)?? I have searched. Is anyone running 54” boggers or 54” micky Thompson’s on the 406? How much body lift to do that?

So where do I buy the goods to turn up the pump to 130hp??
 

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#20 ·
Thanks for the replies and input. I have been reading much on this forum. Very helpful. A member of this forum referred me to an excellent write up on turning up the pump. I will likely attempt the pump adjustment when I get the Mog delivered next month. More power would be nice but the main reason for adding the turbo is because it would be fun to build. I realy would like some bigger tires and from what I gather 395/85r20 is about as big as I go without getting complicated. (am I wrong?)


Has anyone attempted installing oil squirters with the motor in the mog? IE installed bu simply removing oil pan? I understand that most likely my engine has been tapped for the squirters already. is there a write up someplace??
 
#21 ·
got the tires unmounted and put one off the new ones on myself. after mounting the one I was feeling pain and brought the tires to the tractor shop. they mounted the rest. 24oz of balance beads in each tire. 40psi. drives like a cady. (the worst caddy ever)

thanks for the PMs. they have been helpful.

im getting her ready for a snow run. am installing led headlights after work today
 

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#22 ·
for the record these tires barely fit. I have about 3/8" between the inside of the tire and the airtank on the rear drivers side. she turns fine. barely touches the front sway bar on full lock. my truck has the rear swabar removed.

I need help. the blinkers were working fine but for the past few days they blink real fast left and right. they do work front and rear. once I turn on a blinker I have to turn the lights completely off to reset the blinkers
this is a fl419 so it has the military switches
any ideas??
 
#25 ·
you will need 3 longer screws on each side to hold on the light retaining ring. these leds sick out a little more so the longer screws are needed. home depot has them. I use the foam to fill in the gaps left in the rubber gromit that goes in the back of the light housing. you need to enlarge the gromit or the light connector wont fit through

note that without the can bus attached the low beam lights still work but the high beams don't. so if you want to skip the high beams you can skip the canbus box. but the highbeams are great so keep em


these light are only 60 bucks each on amazon and include the canbus (120 bucks total)
 

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