This is a short video clip of My little brother almost rolling the Mog on "the maze" trail at the Sand Hollow State park in St George Utah last year

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=unimog+406+flu419+nose+wheelie

 

I don't think you have squirters but I bet the block is machined for them. Scott at Expedition Imports is selling new 419 blocks and 1 of the pictures shows plugs in the oil galley. Let us know how you're doing with the turbo install.......I'm trying to figure out how to do it without lifting the cab
Goodluck with your Mog!
RMontez
416.141

 

This is how I did it for my son's CASE truck. No piston squirters but then the factory early 352a's did not have them as well.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/2933602-case-406-gets-turbo.html

 

OIL-LESS TURBO IS THE PLAN

read the thread. glad it worked out. have you had any problems with the truck since you turbod it?

And Thank Rmontez for the tip on the blocks for sale. I took a look. Good deal. more work than I want to do for this. If there was a way to put on squirters by removing the oil pan Id do it. I don't want to pull the motor.

This Mog is cool and I want to wheel it and I don't want the turbo project to become a long install. I turbod an 80 series on pirate4x4https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/turbo-build.88793/

On that project I made my own manifold and it made it a couple years before it cracked. I may put the turbo on the side of the block like its supposed to be done but what im mostly considering is getting one of those new oilless turbos and putting the turbo remotely behind the cab. then I caould run the charge pipe from the turbo--then under the cab---right over the exhaust manifold on the drivers side of the block--- and right into the stock intake manifold with a 90 degree silicone elbow. I would need to remove the radiator overflow bottle and would need to put the airfilter back behind the cab by the turbo. here are the advantages of using a remote oiless turbo:

1. I don't need to remove the exhaust manifold
2. don't need to plumb any oil supply and don't need to worry about oil pressure drain from the turbo.
3. don't need to lift the cab

DUMB IDEA??

 

MORE pics of my last turbo manifold I made for my 80 series. too much work

 

once the manifold cracked I used this new one from turbonetics.

of note I used a turbo off of a 7.3 powerstroke turbo. it was a little too big for the 4.5L yota motor

 

the block on the mog Ive purchased has the ribs on the block like this. its a 1989 mog fl419. so how certain is it that there are squirters??

 

I had the engine out of my 1988 FLU. It had the ribs. No squirters. So no guarantees.

 

Thanks
buzz kill. I guess I just need to let go of the piston squirters hope then.

 

You can pull the drain plugs and try to see with an inspection camera.

 

Thanks for the tip. Didn’t think of that

This turbo exhaust manifold for core parts is $984
https://corepartsmb.com/shop/unimog416/intake-exhaust/exhaust-manifold-om352-turbo/

This one is 845$
https://www.eurotruck-importers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1340

A Holset HX35 is $800
https:https://www.maperformance.com/colle...4-02-bolt-in/122851225449?epid=700882531&hash=item1c9a80ef69:g:dEUAAOSw75xa95Jv

Again, why not just skip replacing the exhaust manifold and all the fab mess and use a oilless remote turbo???

 

https://www.maperformance.com/colle...illet-triplex-ball-bearing-5858-turbocharger-233300-0008?variant=13971411599430

These are the comp oilless turbos

 

The OM352a turbo manifold used on the Turbo UNIMOG is NLA.

The rest is just my opinion:

If you want to off-road it, consider swapping a 416 read driveshaft and move the spring perches to the very rear of the chassis. The 406/419 is too now heavy and too short. Good for tractor work, bad for hills.

The 15.5R20 tires are too big to fit on a SEE in many peoples view. 14.5R20’s are a nicer fit.

I love the fun of building and having some extra HP, but I am not sure how much benefit there is on a 419 trail rig. Even a juiced up OM352a won’t generate enough wheel speed to clear the tires or goopy mud, and the gears let you put torque to the earth beyond reason.

No saying don’t do it, but I would spend my $$ on wheelbase extension, cab comfort improvements and noise reduction, and axles maintenance needs first.

I like the way that manifold turned out.

C.

 

If you really want extra HP, get your IP redone with the 10mm plungers and and turn up the RPM's to factory max. ( or close)
Simple 1000$ fix that should get you to 130-140HP

 

I typed a longer version. But it didn’t post.

The SEE IP will support 130-140 hp naturally aspirated. Even if it is only a 8.5mm plunger pump. The two I have seen were 9mm elements.

The 10mm plungers help to reduce the injection duration at higher HP, but I was told by my Bosch guy that they are not needed, even when fueling at 240hp.

The OM352, like most diesels (but worse), is limited by air, not fuel.

It is not and will never be an engine that someone would put in a rock buggy. Now a tugboat...

C.

 

The black machine is my rock racer. We call her “the last starfighter”

Like suggested, I briefly considered the idea of freeing up the rear axle in order to let the rear end flex. But also like suggested, we found the 419 is just too short to play in the rocks unless it is also stretched at leaste 5 feet. My little brother drove the 419 through a trail called “the maze” in st George. Anyone who has done this trail knows that the Far East side of the trail is no joke. He would often times back down the steep obstacles as shown in this pic I took. He almost rolled multiple times. I wish u could see the video I tried to down load above of him almost going end over end while coming down steep stuff. The gearing is great in the rocks.

I won’t use the 419 as a hardcore rock crawler but will I will be the hero at snow runs and she will be fun to drive around town. Can I reasonably get a tire larger than 395/85r20 on her (47”)?? I have searched. Is anyone running 54” boggers or 54” micky Thompson’s on the 406? How much body lift to do that?

So where do I buy the goods to turn up the pump to 130hp??

 

Heres my 406 with a 2 inch body lift to fit the 395/85/20 it’s fine on my local trails but I’m sure at full articulation something would rub.

 

So where do I buy the goods to turn up the pump to 130hp??
Contact your local business specializing in fuel injection, pumps, injectors and turbos...Give em your Pump # and explain what your goal is ... get $$ from 2-3 if you can because you might be able to save some pennies

 

Thanks for the replies and input. I have been reading much on this forum. Very helpful. A member of this forum referred me to an excellent write up on turning up the pump. I will likely attempt the pump adjustment when I get the Mog delivered next month. More power would be nice but the main reason for adding the turbo is because it would be fun to build. I realy would like some bigger tires and from what I gather 395/85r20 is about as big as I go without getting complicated. (am I wrong?)


Has anyone attempted installing oil squirters with the motor in the mog? IE installed bu simply removing oil pan? I understand that most likely my engine has been tapped for the squirters already. is there a write up someplace??

 

got the tires unmounted and put one off the new ones on myself. after mounting the one I was feeling pain and brought the tires to the tractor shop. they mounted the rest. 24oz of balance beads in each tire. 40psi. drives like a cady. (the worst caddy ever)

thanks for the PMs. they have been helpful.

im getting her ready for a snow run. am installing led headlights after work today

 

for the record these tires barely fit. I have about 3/8" between the inside of the tire and the airtank on the rear drivers side. she turns fine. barely touches the front sway bar on full lock. my truck has the rear swabar removed.

I need help. the blinkers were working fine but for the past few days they blink real fast left and right. they do work front and rear. once I turn on a blinker I have to turn the lights completely off to reset the blinkers
this is a fl419 so it has the military switches
any ideas??

 

mounted a pair of these leds. easy to do
super bright
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LXCS0C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

you need to zip tie the can bus to something behind the light housing. literally a 30 min job

 

you will need 3 longer screws on each side to hold on the light retaining ring. these leds sick out a little more so the longer screws are needed. home depot has them. I use the foam to fill in the gaps left in the rubber gromit that goes in the back of the light housing. you need to enlarge the gromit or the light connector wont fit through

note that without the can bus attached the low beam lights still work but the high beams don't. so if you want to skip the high beams you can skip the canbus box. but the highbeams are great so keep em


these light are only 60 bucks each on amazon and include the canbus (120 bucks total)

 

What size tires did you end up putting on?

 

425/75R20 from his other thread