[atul]

Kajetk1 - thanks again! Now I only hope that other components will last that long without rust damage. While under the car, I saw a steel rod with a thick layer of rust peeling off. I don't know what that part is. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

 

[atul]

Corrosion

The first picture below shows the thick layer of rust around the transmission cooling line that I removed and replaced. Other similar lines seem ok (e.g., the long steel lines running from the transmission towards the radiator and that connect to flexible hoses). Why did this steel line get so corroded?

The second picture shows thick layer of rust peeling off a steel rod connecting to the steering mechanism or suspension for the driver side front wheel. What is this part? Should I be worried about this much corrosion? Ignore the wet spots in this picture. I just cleaned the engine bay with Simple Green and water.

 

[Kajtek1]

Corroded steel expands several times, meaning that what you can see as 1/8" of the rust took only 1/128" of metal below.
So that might be concern on thin wall piping, but not on solid rods 3/4" thick. Get a rust converter to stop the process and than paint it well.
The round rod on 2nd picture is stabilizer bar.

 

[atul]

Kajtek1 - thanks, what a relief! I'll use rust converter and paint on the stabilizer bar.

 

[texholdem]

Who has destroyed / blocked our favorite Russian site

MB, who else?

 

[xXtzimisceXx]

I'm hoping to preform the exact same maintenance to my E420. Do you have the part numbers for those lines or sites where I can purchase them?

 

[smoothedge]

I just made a repair on one of the two lines . My repair was on the long line that runs from the trans to the top of the radiator. Here is what i did to solve the issue.

I removed the old line and was left with a 3/8 threaded male at the radiator and another 3/8 threaded male on the other end located bottom drivers side just between the trans and the rad.
I had a 3 foot length of hydraulic hose made up with female 3/8 inch ends attached to each end of the hose. Just a simply bolt on each end ,use some plastic ties to make sure everything stays in its place and you are done.
Cost 22$ tax in and maybe 30 of labor . Looks better than stock

 

[wrooper]

not quite 3/8"

I just made a repair on one of the two lines . My repair was on the long line that runs from the trans to the top of the radiator. Here is what i did to solve the issue.

I removed the old line and was left with a 3/8 threaded male at the radiator and another 3/8 threaded male on the other end located bottom drivers side just between the trans and the rad.
I had a 3 foot length of hydraulic hose made up with female 3/8 inch ends attached to each end of the hose. Just a simply bolt on each end ,use some plastic ties to make sure everything stays in its place and you are done.
Cost 22$ tax in and maybe 30 of labor . Looks better than stock

For others in the future I will point out that the threaded male pieces you see after removing the cooler lines is DIN 10 thread, not 3/8 pipe thread. I know 3/8 will readily if loosely fit these fittings but they are not tapered so your plumbing fittings will not seal on the threads as intended. You may well be able to seal at the flat end with a washer but that seal relies on the fitting remaining tight on the threads which the 3/8 will not do without the taper.

Perhaps liberal use of loctite would help in this case?

 

[Gasman59]

Warning to older W210 owners!

Just a comment to all W210 owners in the snow-salt belt. I replaced the water pump on the wifes 2000 E320 this weekend which required removal of the front facia. (I think this is the correct name for the large plastic protector under the radiator) Guess what, this pipe is totally rusted out, the clamp gone, and I am shocked it is not yet leaking. I just ordered the pipe and flex line from my stealer and should get to it this week.
Thanks for the write up and photos.
Limp home or worse just waiting to happen.
Best,
Ron Y

 

[E320-4Matic]

HI atul

where did you buy the cooling line ? what is the line name? how can I get the name or part number of that cooling line?

Thanks

 

[Kajtek1]

how can I get the name or part number of that cooling line?

Thanks

If you have American CC, you can get free subscription to US EPC (CC is for veryfication only)
Or you can surf EPC in Russian Ìîäåëü

 

[E320-4Matic]

Thank you kajtek1

 

[E320-4Matic]

Thank you dear atul

 

[Cloudsurfer]

For others in the future I will point out that the threaded male pieces you see after removing the cooler lines is DIN 10 thread, not 3/8 pipe thread. I know 3/8 will readily if loosely fit these fittings but they are not tapered so your plumbing fittings will not seal on the threads as intended. You may well be able to seal at the flat end with a washer but that seal relies on the fitting remaining tight on the threads which the 3/8 will not do without the taper.

Perhaps liberal use of loctite would help in this case?

Excellent point.

 

[E320-4Matic]

Hi atul

This transmission cooler line you have changed ,and that goes to the radiator , carry the car transmission fluid (oil) ?? , and not water??.

Thank you Atul

 

[atul]

This transmission cooler line you have changed ,and that goes to the radiator , carry the car transmission fluid (oil) ?? , and not water??.

Sorry, this question was posed over three year ago but I just saw it. The answer is yes. These lines carry the transmission fluid.

 

[jbodenrader]

Kajtek- my lower cooling line (e430) split when replacing the radiator. I mended with a 3/8 in coupling, but feels tenuous. Any idea where I can get p/n for the lower hose?

 

[Meats]

I successfully replaced both transmission cooler flex hoses and the galvanized steel line. I lost just a couple of ounces of transmission fluid.

This would have been a one or two hour job were it not for the frozen screw holding the clamp around the steel line (you can see this in the first picture I posted above). I tried WD40 etc, but the screw just wouldn't come off. I had to resort to cutting the steel line and the clamp with tin snips and then sawing off the screw using a small hand saw (can't get a power tool in this space - just not enough room). Now the rest of the screw was still frozen solid inside the nut due to the rust. I had to cut a small notch in the plastic holding the nut in order to get it out. This required removing the fan and its housing.

Once I removed the fan housing, I realized that I could have done the whole job from above (I spent a lot of time under the car trying to remove the rusted screw and clamp.)

Besides the saw and tin snips, the only other tools I needed were 17mm and 19mm flare wrenches and the ATF dipstick.

I am curious - should I have used a thread sealant?

Here are some pictures of the completed job.

Having the same issue, but cant find the steel lines online. Where did you buy them?

 

[Witek_M]

Having the same issue, but cant find the steel lines online. Where did you buy them?

Which one?

 

[Meats]

Witek, its the 47, 71, 56 that I nees to replace, and also the banjo bolt. im all ears if you can send me somewhere? All I can ever find are the rubber/flex hoses, but not the steel lines

a week or so ago I woke up to a HUGE red puddle under the drivers side front axle. panicked, thought it may be a half shaft! now, with the rad out, and trans cooler line empty, my garage is red puddle free.

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