I think this is the hose in your pic ... the part # is 210-270-17-96

 

You may want to double check that part numbers application to your vehicle. Look at the drawing and then look at your part and its attachment and your photo------Do you see something different!!!

 

Wow.

That is really corroded. They use salt on the roads there?

 

In CA we don't have the corrosion, but I replaced the hoses on couple of MB in the past and now my 98 model is due. I would advise to replace them as well. Thanks for posting the catalog page.
Russian site is not working and I have hard time to find part numbers.

 

Who has destroyed / blocked our favorite Russian site

 

MB, who else?

 

Part #62 on the picture is different from mine. My line is attached near the top of the cooler element and facing outward (picture shows facing inward and to low). Still hunting for a correct part.

 

could this have caused leak in picture below? I was thinking torque converter seal but fixing this (if it is the problem) first would be cheaper and a much less risky job.

 

The above looks more like pan gasket leak, but the only way to make sure is wash it, take the car for a drive and recheck. Sometimes lining the area with paper towels is the only way to pinpoint the leak. Good luck

 

but the fluid runs from the top down it looks like.

 

Going to Make One

I have searched every where (not dealer) but could not find the transmission cooler "metal" pipe. I will remove the pipe off the car to see what kind of fitting on both ends. If it is a flare type (single or double), I will use a small piece of copper pipe to make one.

 

I have searched every where (not dealer) but could not find the transmission cooler "metal" pipe. I will remove the pipe off the car to see what kind of fitting on both ends. If it is a flare type (single or double), I will use a small piece of copper pipe to make one.

Don't forget, we, us and you have one year free access to MB EPC. If you do much DYI the EPC is a great tool and it is free, yes free to USA users. The frogs and limies don't have free access!!

Don't get scared when they ask you for your credit card----read the directions carefully, all they do is use your card infor to confirm where you live!! Good luck I found your part so can you!!

 

Unless this is a temporary repair and you live in a dry desert, don't use copper. Copper coupled to steel will cause galvanic corrosion.

You can buy steel line from the auto parts store. You can buy lengths with flare fittings already on - a store that specialized in import car parts could have lines with metric fittings.

Another reason you don't see copper tubing on cars is that it fatigues from vibration and eventually cracks. I speak from experience - one of my former vehicles had the hydraulic clutch line plumbed with copper tubing. Not only did it crack, but it turned the fluid blue, although this was brake fluid which is more aggressive than transmission fluid.

 

Transmission Cooling Line DIY help needed

Hello - I have an extremely corroded and leaking transmission cooling line under the radiator (see the first pic). The ATF level still reads fine. I've started seeing a few drops of transmission fluid under the car after I park. Found the right part# for the steel cooling line that runs under the radiator and then up the passenger side (part# A2102700996) on the free online EPC. However, the MB online EPC dosn't show the right rubber hose that connects to the steel line. Found this part# A0199978182 on a russian parts site (see attached parts diagram). I am replacing parts labeled 71 and 116 in this diagram.

Now to the questions?
1. How much fluid should I expect to lose as I disconnect these two hoses?
2. I got new hoses from the stealer. I don't see any rubber washers inside the connecting nuts. Am I missing something? Or is it normal to not see rubber washers?
3. What is the recommended torque to tighten the nuts on these hoses?
4. Would it be wise to also replace the other hose, labeled 122, while I am at it? Would I lose too much fluid if I open that hose? It is the exact same part as the one labeled 116.

Thanks

 

How does ATF circulate with no pump?

 

WOW. Some corrosion. Than it shows how MB paint job on the radiator support protects better than galvanized coat on the piping.
Coming to the answers
1. probably couple of onces. Park the car nose up for the job. Check the level after anyway.
2. Flare fittings don't have any washer. Just make sure they are clean
3. don't know, but be careful. Big nuts makes impression of strong, while hollow pipes are not.
4. 8 years is not much for those hoses, but considering the environment the car is used - I would do it. Especially that they work in pairs and should be replaced in pairs.

 

Kajtek1 - thanks for the advice. I'll post an update after completing the hose replacement.

 

I successfully replaced both transmission cooler flex hoses and the galvanized steel line. I lost just a couple of ounces of transmission fluid.

This would have been a one or two hour job were it not for the frozen screw holding the clamp around the steel line (you can see this in the first picture I posted above). I tried WD40 etc, but the screw just wouldn't come off. I had to resort to cutting the steel line and the clamp with tin snips and then sawing off the screw using a small hand saw (can't get a power tool in this space - just not enough room). Now the rest of the screw was still frozen solid inside the nut due to the rust. I had to cut a small notch in the plastic holding the nut in order to get it out. This required removing the fan and its housing.

Once I removed the fan housing, I realized that I could have done the whole job from above (I spent a lot of time under the car trying to remove the rusted screw and clamp.)

Besides the saw and tin snips, the only other tools I needed were 17mm and 19mm flare wrenches and the ATF dipstick.

I am curious - should I have used a thread sealant?

Here are some pictures of the completed job.

 

Having the same issue, but cant find the steel lines online. Where did you buy them?

 

Looking good. You should be set for next 10 or so years.
No sealant on this application. Flare connectors are metal against metal.
In old applications that are beaten up some Teflon dope will help, but avoid it if you can.

 

Kajetk1 - thanks again! Now I only hope that other components will last that long without rust damage. While under the car, I saw a steel rod with a thick layer of rust peeling off. I don't know what that part is. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

 

Corrosion

The first picture below shows the thick layer of rust around the transmission cooling line that I removed and replaced. Other similar lines seem ok (e.g., the long steel lines running from the transmission towards the radiator and that connect to flexible hoses). Why did this steel line get so corroded?

The second picture shows thick layer of rust peeling off a steel rod connecting to the steering mechanism or suspension for the driver side front wheel. What is this part? Should I be worried about this much corrosion? Ignore the wet spots in this picture. I just cleaned the engine bay with Simple Green and water.

 

Corroded steel expands several times, meaning that what you can see as 1/8" of the rust took only 1/128" of metal below.
So that might be concern on thin wall piping, but not on solid rods 3/4" thick. Get a rust converter to stop the process and than paint it well.
The round rod on 2nd picture is stabilizer bar.

 

Kajtek1 - thanks, what a relief! I'll use rust converter and paint on the stabilizer bar.

 

I'm hoping to preform the exact same maintenance to my E420. Do you have the part numbers for those lines or sites where I can purchase them?

 

I just made a repair on one of the two lines . My repair was on the long line that runs from the trans to the top of the radiator. Here is what i did to solve the issue.

I removed the old line and was left with a 3/8 threaded male at the radiator and another 3/8 threaded male on the other end located bottom drivers side just between the trans and the rad.
I had a 3 foot length of hydraulic hose made up with female 3/8 inch ends attached to each end of the hose. Just a simply bolt on each end ,use some plastic ties to make sure everything stays in its place and you are done.
Cost 22$ tax in and maybe 30 of labor . Looks better than stock

 

not quite 3/8"



For others in the future I will point out that the threaded male pieces you see after removing the cooler lines is DIN 10 thread, not 3/8 pipe thread. I know 3/8 will readily if loosely fit these fittings but they are not tapered so your plumbing fittings will not seal on the threads as intended. You may well be able to seal at the flat end with a washer but that seal relies on the fitting remaining tight on the threads which the 3/8 will not do without the taper.

Perhaps liberal use of loctite would help in this case?

 

Warning to older W210 owners!

Just a comment to all W210 owners in the snow-salt belt. I replaced the water pump on the wifes 2000 E320 this weekend which required removal of the front facia. (I think this is the correct name for the large plastic protector under the radiator) Guess what, this pipe is totally rusted out, the clamp gone, and I am shocked it is not yet leaking. I just ordered the pipe and flex line from my stealer and should get to it this week.
Thanks for the write up and photos.
Limp home or worse just waiting to happen.
Best,
Ron Y

 

HI atul

where did you buy the cooling line ? what is the line name? how can I get the name or part number of that cooling line?

Thanks

 

how can I get the name or part number of that cooling line?

Thanks

If you have American CC, you can get free subscription to US EPC (CC is for veryfication only)
Or you can surf EPC in Russian Ìîäåëü

 

Thank you kajtek1