The odometer gears can fail and the speedo keep working
That's a start, I'm off to bed and next shift will be along soon to answer some more

 

I had a similar set of issues with my 88 560SL. I don't know what the root cause was but I sent the instrument console off to be reconditioned. Everything works fine now. $400. You don't have to remove the steering wheel to remove it.

 

You don't have to remove the steering wheel to remove it.

I didn’t think that was possible. I removed mine.

 

I need to get back there to fix my odo but the screw to get the wheel off is stripped so I gave up but if anyone has a picture of how they were able to access i’d love to see that and give it another go. I’d like to fix the odometer before I put too many “ghost miles” on it. it came to me working so I think it’s relatively accurate.

On a similar note, an ethical question. Do I try and wind it forward to add the miles I think I drove since it broke or leave it as is and tell the next buyer someday to add a thousand miles or something?

 

I need to get back there to fix my odo but the screw to get the wheel off is stripped so I gave up

Huh. Give up. What's that? There's a solution to every problem.

Next time you attempt that screw get some heat on it with a pencil torch. Gotta melt the loctite.

 

Hi Uncle,

For access to the instrument cluster removing the steering wheel (and a small plastic cover underneath) is mandatory and takes only 2 minutes. 2 screws from the backside, holding the airbag and one center bolt for the wheel.
If you use a torque wrench (they have a much longer shaft then a normal wrench) and a second person to hold the wheel, it won't be a problem.
Don't try it alone or with non appropriate tools!
Your odometer system may have an electrical problem, removing the i-cluster and perform some measurements will help to find the root cause. If you don’t have an idea where or how to check the wiring/signals, you should better don’t start working on this.

Cheers Martin

 

I think you hit the nail on the head with the chamfered bits, that’s all I seem to find so i’m going to take my dremel and take it down flat and try again. you’ve inspired me to give it another go. Thanks Nobby!

 

I don't know where you live but I have a spare screw if you want it....given to me by another member (Reno!)

 

I might take you up on that but first let’s see if I get it out. I’ll reach out after my success, hopefully sooner than later. Appreciate it!

 

I had to drill and use a LH extractor to remove my screw after I stripped the Allen head. An unpleasant adventure.

 

Drill about a 3/8" (10mm) hole all way through the bolt. Then drill using a 3/4" (19mm) bit just deep enough ~3/8" to pop the head off the bolt. With the head off the bolt the torque is now released in the bolt and you will only be fighting Loktite. At that point if the easy out gives you any problem apply the heat as required. Drilling using left hand bits is always optimal.

Note a 3/4" drill bit is too small to touch the splines in the wheel hub and should break the cap off the bolt long before you touch the steering shaft.