Hi Tom,
I saw your work on these ABC high-pressure hose/tube custom modifications. I didn't know some of these hoses are called 'car killers' because of the cost of replacing them using traditional methods. Here are two recent videos on what I think is about the same part 230 997 60 28.

,

Since I'm new to this issue with the car, I'll be watching for leaks. It is hard to know what to do to prevent leaks from starting for as long as possible other than replacing the fluid and filter and items like the accumulators. I'm glad people like you are thinking about non-traditional repairs to these hoses rather than thinking the car has to be torn apart to replace them like one of the videos is showing.
Bill

 

The 'car killer' hose is what some call the main line from the pump to the pulsation dampener (located, on ABC 1 cars, in the wheel well behind the FLHS wheel). Part number A 230 320 3353 but it's NLA I think.

This line joins to a smaller piece that goes to the pulsation dampener. That's A 230 320 8153. You can buy that but I had it rebuilt for $56.00.

It's possible that either or both could blow out, stranding you. You cannot drive the car without ABC pressure!

My main line was fine but the second one had a seep. I decided to rebuild them both.

In both those videos they're changing the line from the PD to the valve block; line 320 or 330; some may also call those lines the 'car killer' hoses too.

I am almost certain that both can be cut and joined with compression fittings around where the numbers 330 and 320 are printed on the drawing here.

If so then that mechanic in the second vid might have liked to know that! I don't think he knows much about R230s, nor does the dealer who bought it.

And I would not replace the steel lines with flexible lines like the guy in the first vid is doing. Flexible lines in hydraulic systems can cause resonance and NVH in the system, if fitted where they're not supposed to be. The ABC system in the 230 was extremely carefully designed for smoothness and to reduce NVH as much as possible.

***

If you haven't already done so you should inspect all the hydraulic hoses for seepage at the ends. You have to pull the wheel liners to do that, and the under body cladding.

 

Tom,
In the video where the guy makes that replacement hose from a long flexible hose later in the video he states that this approach is a mistake and recommends using the existing tubing along with new coupling and a custom hose section like you are doing. I found a reference here in Florida for the supply of the custom hose section. I'll be checking the hoses when I pull the fender liners to install the accumulators.
I don't see a lot written about these high pressure hoses failing. Makes me think that it has not become a major problem for a large number of R230 cars - yet. I could guess that not changing the ABC fluid, or not addressing some of the warning messages the system sends will accelerate hose failure.
Bill

 

The basic rule of thumb to design a hydraulic system is to try to use rigid tubings as much as possible for routing. It can eliminate virbration, frequency resonance, fatigue, seepage...etc.

The only time you have to use a flex hose is when the routing is between a fix structure and a movable structure (maintain enough slack for movement). There is also a minimum bend radius involved depends on the hose outside diameter.

To fix this kind of problem, all you need to do is fabricate a flex hose section (or buy a factory part and keep the section you want). Find a straight tubing section on the existing route (away from any bends) where you want to splice it with flareless fittings. (B-nut, Union and Sleeves- fittings are sized by O.D. ). Any additional bend along the line will create a pressure drop which will deviate from the factory settings.

 

I think we'll hear more about hose failure as our cars age.

I've had only one weeping line. The hose under the car is the one you want to watch as this is copping engine heat as well as the full 3000 psi from the pump.

Annual hose inspection on these old cars is mandatory in my view. Maybe even more frequently. I think they give a fair indication of impending failure by seeping at their ends first before they blow. I hope so anyway...

 

How come you can't replace that line with a military acft grade braided steel hose? I work with them all the time and they are rated for 6000 psig.

 

The Aeroquip hose my hydraulic shop fits are rated at 5800 psi. I'm sure the MB original lines were rated far above the pump's 2800 psi.

 

Well that is my plan when and if that line leaks. I will replace it with a flexible braided steel line.

 

I've rebuilt all the high pressure hoses on two s55's with double stainless braided 6000 psi hose and compression fittings and happy to report no problems in 3 years and over 40k miles.

 

That sounds great! I recently replaced a couple of the lines with Mercedes and Uro parts. I’d like to make my own lines though (rubber part), but have no idea what to get and where, nor how to do it. I’ve been diy for everything else on the car so far, but making my own hoses seems mysterious. Have any tips you can share? A write up would be awesome.

 

I have a thread in the w220 forum (diy abc hoses) that is complete instructions, maybe it will help you

 

I’ll take a look. Thanks!

 

Hi Tom,
Happy New Year!
I'm preparing to change out my Pulsation Damper. I have no reason to think it's faulty since the Accumulators I changed out were good but as we have discussed, replacing it is good preventative maintenance.
I noticed that the line coming into the side of the Pulsation Damper valve body- not the 2 lines that have the hard pipe extensions that are attached to the top. This line has a stain indicating a small leak or weeping at the end of the hose. No drips or stains on the body below.

Is the line I'm describing above what you are talking about in this write-up? Do you have the part number? I looked at the available sketches on the web and have not been able to find it. I'll leave the fender well unbuttoned after I install the Pulsation Damper so I can track how things progress with the weeping line. That is the only leak I've found so far. I'll come up with a plan for making the repair so I can have it done before things get serious. There are a few shops not too far from here that have made the repair by cutting the line and adding a new section so I feel confident I can address the problem. I just need to plan what to do, get the parts, and schedule the repair.

Bill

 

Hi Bill.

This line - line 480? It's the second half of the line. Part number 2303205153 - but I don't know if that refers to the whole line, the first long piece from the pump to the union, or just the second piece (line 480). Dealer will pull up the right part numbers.

You can buy it new for not much, or have it rebuilt (I did). Perfect job. The orientation must be perfect, or the lines will hit the chassis and buzz. You can twist the barbs in the crimp to align if necessary.

If it's weeping, change it ASAP - it's a known failure point.

 

After we communicated earlier I looked into 480 a little closer and came up with part # 2303203253. I also looked at the car. It looks like the line from the power steering to the Pulsation Damper. I'm going to check tomorrow with the dealer and part suppliers. I found a price on the web of $100 for a new replacement part which seems OK to me. The other good thing is that it looks like a plug in part that would be easy to install - no fabrication required. If I can verify all this then to replace it looks easy and I don't think there would be much loss of fluid to change it out. If I understood what you said you fabricated and built this part so I hope you can verify what I am saying.

 

Yes, it is line 480. I'll check with the suppliers here.

I'll likely have something else to ask later.

Thanks as always for your comments.

 

Good plan. Have you inspected the main line that runs under the engine? Peel back the heat resistant fabric shield and have a squiz at the ends near the crimps. This line cops all the heat from the engine and probably doesn't do too well over time.

 

Just got a decent floor jack so I can lift the car enough to put the jack stands under it. I'll check out what you suggest. Might take me a while. Being a senior citizen means I have more time but also means I am slower!

 

That's the right part: Genuine Mercedes 2303208153, A2303208153 Power Steering Line - Mercedes | 2303203253. For $99.00 I would buy that.

But it has nothing to do with the power steering. It's all ABC lines. I think the first section is 2303205153 and the second is 2303203253 - as you said. That's line 480.

You can essentially have any of the flexible lines rebuilt at a hydraulic shop - they're all standard hoses, and cheap to rebuild. That's what I did with both. The hydraulic people will cut out the flexible sections and fit new ones, while you wait, probably.

Operators of agricultural machinery and earth moving equipment won't accept either a) paying MB prices for things, and b) waiting around for days or weeks to get stuff done. They demand respect, unlike those rich or foolish enough to own aging supercars, like us, who are used to paying through the nose, and waiting around.

When I get my hoist I am going to replace every single ABC hose in the whole car. It's just too much of a hassle without a hoist.

 

That's the right part: Genuine Mercedes 2303208153, A2303208153 Power Steering Line - Mercedes | 2303203253. For $99.00 I would buy that.

But it has nothing to do with the power steering. It's all ABC lines. I think the first section is 2303205153 and the second is 2303205153 - as you said. That's line 480.

Same part # for both sections??

 

Yes, I just ordered that part. There are some other suppliers that are about 30% cheaper but not worth it from my standpoint. There is a housekeeping issue I need to revisit. In order to install this new line the existing line coming from the ABC pump(?) needs to be unbolted from the line that will be replaced. Since the pump won't be running there should be a minimum amount of drainage -correct? I have the front wheel removed and the hydraulic pressure should be relieved. I wish I had a plug for the line from the ABC pump but short of using my finger I don't know where to find a plug that will fit. I am going to have a helper so we won't have the line open for very long. Any recollections you have about when you did this step would be helpful for me to know. I sure don't want fluid all over the place. We will have everything clean and ready to go before starting the changeout.

I am curious about your work on changing out some of these lines. Did you take apart the existing lines from your car piece by piece, scavenge the parts you planned to use again and take these to the hydraulic shop or did you buy used sections of lines from places like ebay or a junk yard and use those? There is a market for used lines on ebay. I can't see somebody reinstalling a used section of used hydraulic hose.

I can imagine a hoist would be helpful but are you talking about a light-capacity one to help with moving bulky items into position or are you talking about moving engines?

 

I looked at the connection where the replacement piece meets the line from the ABC pump again just now. Nice that it is visible but to someone like me it looks very challenging. It hasn't been opened for almost 18 years. Do you remember if you took the entire wheel well off to help get better access to break the connection? I'm going to leave the choice up to my helper. I don't think those modified tools you show have anything to do with this connection?

 

This is from memory, so there may be one or two unnecessary steps, but I am pretty sure this is the way:

• Car up on axle stands; front wheel removed
• Remove the underbody cladding, as some of the wheel well fasteners are underneath the cladding
• Remove the the wheel well liners to gain access to the hose
• With the engine off, there is no ABC pressure, so don't worry about leaks. Just a few drips.
• Undo the line at the union with flare nut spanners
• Refit or replace the green o-rings - only a few dollars from MB (but they'll be reusable if you don't damage them - does the new hose have new o-rings? Probably)
• Once you can eat off it, replace the hose and refit the rubber grommet then torque it all up - I did it all by feel.

To remove and replace the first section - the main line - you will need to cut it or drop the subframe. I am pretty sure you cannot get it out any other way. But read through the whole of my post at the start where I describe where I cut and joined it.

You can buy second hand lines and get the rubber pieces replaced - sure. The steel sections of the lines will last forever.

 

OK, thanks. I'll work with what you have given me. I'm having trouble following some of the photos you present earlier in the thread but I suppose everything would be clearer if the underbody cladding were removed. The underbody cladding will have to be removed to look at the main line anyway so I suppose I should do it now and have a look.

 

This is the main line that goes from the pump to the pulsation dampener/valve block union on first generation ABC R230s. I don't know if it's the same on ABC2 cars.

This line is in two pieces. The first piece has two separate flexible sections. Mine wasn't leaking but I decided to rebuild it anyway before it blew and stranded me. This joins to the second section via a union; this short section goes up to the pulsation dampener and had started to leak so I did both sections.
**
I had previously replaced both lines with one long custom made line which snaked around under the bumper and up under the guard. I do not recommend this experiment now. It worked fine and did not leak but had a noticeable vibration around 2000 RPM which I think was a consequence of some pulsation characteristic in the fluid being pumped around the system in its new, different path length. The original long line was there for a purpose.
**
So it's back in with the old lines. Lucky I kept it all! You cannot buy the main section new now from MB, at least here anyway. You also can't get it out without dropping the subframe as far as I know, perhaps there's a way, but I had previously cut it twice anyway to fit the experimental long line. If you want to do this repair you will have to cut the steel line here with a pipe cutter but measure the length as the new stainless compression fitting means you'll have to take a section out of the pipe - about an inch. This big fitting is I think 13 mm but the hydraulic shop will know and have them. They're big chunky units with a two-piece ferrule that crimps on. No leaks!:
View attachment 2753796

Then the new flexible section which you can see to the left of the above photo (wrapped in tape) goes to this connection below. Cut the steel line but leave at least a 10-15 mm straight section of the pipe, just forward of where you can see the new nut which has been fitted over a steel ferrule which the hydraulic shop will crimp on to the steel line:
View attachment 2753790

Following the line around, here is the new flexible section the shop crimped in for me:
View attachment 2753791

I wrapped it all in new thick heat resistant tape; hopefully at least as good as the original. You can see the new crimps at each end of the line. They're new, with the new hose. Moving on towards the PD we come to the second section which bolts to the first with a union. Here you see this new short piece with new crimps:
View attachment 2753794
I needed to make a few high-tech 'special tools'. Tackle this job and you'll find out where you need them:

View attachment 2753797

You'll need 11/16" and 3/4" spanners for the small fitting, and 21 and 22 mm for the larger stainless one.

Result: vibration gone, no leaks and new flexible hose sections!

Tom

Tom, I pulled down one side of the

This is from memory, so there may be one or two unnecessary steps, but I am pretty sure this is the way:

• Car up on axle stands; front wheel removed
• Remove the underbody cladding, as some of the wheel well fasteners are underneath the cladding
• Remove the the wheel well liners to gain access to the hose
• With the engine off, there is no ABC pressure, so don't worry about leaks. Just a few drips.
• Undo the line at the union with flare nut spanners
• Refit or replace the green o-rings - only a few dollars from MB (but they'll be reusable if you don't damage them - does the new hose have new o-rings? Probably)
• Once you can eat off it, replace the hose and refit the rubber grommet then torque it all up - I did it all by feel.

To remove and replace the first section - the main line - you will need to cut it or drop the subframe. I am pretty sure you cannot get it out any other way. But read through the whole of my post at the start where I describe where I cut and joined it.

You can buy second hand lines and get the rubber pieces replaced - sure. The steel sections of the lines will last forever.
[/QUOT
Tom,
I pulled down one side of a few sections of the cladding and notice that there are several lines running under the car. Unfortunately for me the line that has the insulation has a slow leak or so it appears to me unless that is old oil from the repaired leaking valve covers. No such luck I suppose. That section is what you call the main line right? The line that is wrapped in heat resistant tape that you show in the photo above -is that the continuation of the section(480) I am going to replace? I think so. One more comment for now - having the hose made up seems like something I could get done but the line needs to be cut in 2 places and 2 couplings added. I installed couplings for the hydraulics on the retractable top but this seems a much more difficult task dealing with the metal tubing.

 

I pulled down one side of a few sections of the cladding and noticed that there are several lines running under the car. Unfortunately the line that has the insulation has a slow leak or so it appears to me unless that is old oil from the repaired leaking valve covers. No such luck I suppose. That section is what you call the main line right? The line wrapped in heat resistant tape that you show in the photo above is the continuation of the section(480) I am going to replace? I think so. Do you remember what tool you used to cut the tubing? The choices are tube cutter or Dremel wheel. Any recollections you can pass along would be appreciated.

 

You probably have old engine oil on it. Cut the insulation off and have a deeper inspection and maybe post a photo.

Look for seepage where the flexible sections meet the crimps.

Mine wasn't leaking, and this is not a necessary repair but I would definitely do it first. I am planning to replace all the ABC hoses soon.

You can cut the section at the front with a pipe cutter, where I did. The section near the steering rack is more of a challenge; you'll have to get the grinder in there.

 

I finally got several sections of the cladding off and removed the driver-side wheel well. I'll cut off a few inches of insulation from the driver's side of the main line under the car tomorrow. All the other lines I've looked at on the car except the short section I'm already replacing are bone dry but there is definitely oil on the two supports attached to the engine body that hold the main insulated line in the center. I'll send a photo as well.
I'm having trouble understanding what you mean when you answered the question I asked about how and where to cut this main line. In the photo you show of the engine underside in this thread it is difficult to make out the ends of the hose. I have the driver's side of the car quite open now. I'll take some additional photos of the area. Maybe from these photos you can indicate where on the driver's side the tube for this main line should be cut.

I've read there are 4 particular high-pressure lines that are prone to failure on the ABC system. I'm sure the insulated main line we are talking about is one. The discussion did not elaborate which 4 lines? Do you know?

 

Good document, that one, but it can induce a mild panic. Better to be armed with good information though. Study the diagram on page 5 if you really want to understand how the system works. Note the red lines which give you the paths of maximum pressure.

This is the line I refer to as the main line, and the one you're going to repair:

It's line 380 from the pump to the pulsation dampener. To get it out, I cut it where 470 is written on the diagram, then again below where 420 is written, where I cut the straight section of the pipe.

Moving from the pressure valve to the t-blocks we have lines 340 and 350. I think 340 is the pressure line and 350 is the return line (can someone please confirm or deny). Then if that's right, lines 280 and 320 are the pressure lines.

All pressure lines are at pump pressure so all will be under similar stress and should be checked for seepage, or just replaced.

 

I'm short on time today but I did want to reply to you. On Jan 12 you sent me a drawing that showed line 480 which we agreed is part 2303205153. I'm going to replace that line this weekend.. My line 480 is weeping. The first drawing you show above ( that shows the pump) I have never seen before but the important point is that now line 480 has a shaded 360 written above it. I think the shaded numbers refer to hardware - bolts, washers and not hose and hard lines. The second line we were talking about you called the main line. The hose I think I might need to replace is the hose under shaded number 430. It runs under the engine and is insulated. You replaced this hose and you refer to it earlier in this thread and show a picture of it. When you note where you made cuts to the main line below 470 and 420 to me that looks to be addressing a different hose section of this main line. At this point, I don't know if I have a problem with that hose section or not.
In summary, I'd like to confirm that you cut the main line at 470 and 420 to replace the section of the main line that runs under the engine below the number 430 in the drawing that shows the pump.

 

Sorry if I mixed up the part numbers.

The correct part number for the second, smaller section, noted as both line 360 and 480 in the drawings is A2303208153. Genuine Mercedes 2303208153, A2303208153 Power Steering Line - Mercedes | 2303203253

The part number for the first section that is called line 380 is either A2303203153 or A2303205153 but I don't know for sure which number is right.

I made the cut at the 470 mark as I initially fitted a new hose bypassing the whole line, going from that cut back to the valve/pulsation dampener. I later decided to rebuild it properly and repair the line.

To get it out you will have to cut at 420. No way around that without dropping the subframe, (once again, I think that is right), but I am pretty sure you do not have to make the extra cut at 470. Once you undo it from the pump and have made the cut at 420 I think you should be able to snake it out; but it's all really tight in there and you might have to stop and make the cut with a pipe cutter at 470, so have it ready to go. It's an easy matter to rejoin it with a 13 mm compression fitting.

Hope that makes sense!

 

Sorry if I mixed up the part numbers.

The correct part number for the second, smaller section, noted as both line 360 and 480 in the drawings is A2303208153. Genuine Mercedes 2303208153, A2303208153 Power Steering Line - Mercedes | 2303203253

The part number for the first section that is called line 380 is either A2303203153 or A2303205153 but I don't know for sure which number is right.

I made the cut at the 470 mark as I initially fitted a new hose bypassing the whole line, going from that cut back to the valve/pulsation dampener. I later decided to rebuild it properly and repair the line.

To get it out you will have to cut at 420. No way around that without dropping the subframe, (once again, I think that is right), but I am pretty sure you do not have to make the extra cut at 470. Once you undo it from the pump and have made the cut at 420 I think you should be able to snake it out; but it's all really tight in there and you might have to stop and make the cut with a pipe cutter at 470, so have it ready to go. It's an easy matter to rejoin it with a 13 mm compression fitting.

Hope that makes sense!

Yes, I gave the wrong part number. I am going to replace part A2303208153 as you state. I am still trying to figure out the remainder of what you are telling me by tracking it on the car. That insulated hose that runs under the engine( what I want to replace) is longer than I originally thought. The drawing shows tubing between the straight location 420 and 440 but on my car the line is insulated which would mean the hose is extended which I didn't expect. Hopefully I'll be able to sort it out soon. I'll let you know. I want to send a few pictures as well. I want to verify that section is actually leaking so I may leave the cladding off and drive it some.

 

Perhaps this photo may help. It sure looks like it's flexible hose all the way.

I wonder if it's possible that the design was changed at some point, so that it's hose all the way, without the steel section between 420 and 440?

Mine definitely has the steel section between 420 and 440, as shown in the drawing.

Cut off the insulation or feel it, to check.

If it's hose all the way you'll still have to have it remade in two pieces, with a compression fitting, to get it back in.

 

Perhaps this photo may help. It sure looks like it's flexible hose all the way.

View attachment 2803790

I wonder if it's possible that the design was changed at some point, so that it's hose all the way, without the steel section between 420 and 440?

Mine definitely has the steel section between 420 and 440, as shown in the drawing.

Cut off the insulation or feel it, to check.

If it's hose all the way you'll still have to have it remade in two pieces, with a compression fitting, to get it back in.

Perhaps this photo may help. It sure looks like it's flexible hose all the way.

View attachment 2803790

I wonder if it's possible that the design was changed at some point, so that it's hose all the way, without the steel section between 420 and 440?

Mine definitely has the steel section between 420 and 440, as shown in the drawing.

Cut off the insulation or feel it, to check.

If it's hose all the way you'll still have to have it remade in two pieces, with a compression fitting, to get it back in.

The insulated line is what I need to check - as you can see this is near the front of the car and connects to the line under the engine.

 

I reckon that they changed the design of this line at some stage.

Yours (all hose) goes straight to the back of the engine where it takes a turn towards the PD, whereas mine has a short section of steel pipe that connects to the second section of hose under the engine, then through to the wheel well and the PD.

Anyone else know about this change?

 

It certainly looks to me to be entirely one long piece of hose as you say. I have been trying to feel the insulation for a change to steel pipe but so far I have found nothing. One end of the hose connects to a 13 mm pipe and the other end to a 10 mm pipe. So does that mean i need to cut the pipe near 470 with a grinder? I have not even been able to find location 470 yet!

 

I would think that if yours is actually one long length of soft hose then you can just cut the soft hose at both ends then snake it out.

The issue will be the steel pipe that runs from the pump. You will have to cut this at location 470 to wiggle it out; it's like one of those wire puzzles popular in the 1970s, but by all means have a crack at getting it out without cutting the pipe. It might be possible.

Get the hydraulic shop to note the orientation of the fittings at each end and replicate them, but you can twist the ends in the crimps anyway.

 

I would think that if yours is actually one long length of soft hose then you can just cut the soft hose at both ends then snake it out.

The issue will be the steel pipe that runs from the pump. You will have to cut this at location 470 to wiggle it out; it's like one of those wire puzzles popular in the 1970s, but by all means have a crack at getting it out without cutting the pipe. It might be possible.

Get the hydraulic shop to note the orientation of the fittings at each end and replicate them, but you can twist the ends in the crimps anyway.
[/QUO
If I got the pipe out without cutting it, I still have to think about putting it back in and think about joining it to the hose! What did you have to do about the consideration that the pipe at the pump is 13 mm dia and at the other end the pipe at the PD is 10 mm? Can the same id pipe be used or is a transition piece, coupling, or crimp required?

 

The 13 mm pipe takes a 13 mm compression fitting. The 10 mm pipe takes a 10 mm compression fitting, but as we think we know from your line you don't have this section.

Disconnect the steel line at the banjo fitting at the pump, cut the soft hose at 380 then I think you will be able to wiggle it down so that the cut end hangs down below the underside of the car, allowing you to get your pipe cutter in there and slice it off. I've done it so I know it works.

 

The 13 mm pipe takes a 13 mm compression fitting. The 10 mm pipe takes a 10 mm compression fitting, but as we think we know from your line you don't have this section.

Disconnect the steel line at the banjo fitting at the pump, cut the soft hose at 380 then I think you will be able to wiggle it down so that the cut end hangs down below the underside of the car, allowing you to get your pipe cutter in there and slice it off. I've done it so I know it works.

View attachment 2804059

I found the hose/pipe looking down into the front of the engine after opening the hood. Finally, I can understand what I'm looking at when I look at your photo showing the same location.

I have a question about the 13mm pipe removal process you describe above in the second paragraph. I will cut the soft hose as you state but then I will have to unscrew the bolt holding the 13mm pipe support and wiggle the pipe down as you state. Looking at the photo, am I correct that you sliced the 13 mm pipe on the straight section to the right of the pipe support leaving allowance for the crimp to be added?
Did you try to remove the entire 13 mm pipe through the top front of the engine? I assume you did and something I can't see is preventing it from being removed this way?

 

What did you have to do about the consideration that the pipe at the pump is 13 mm dia and at the other end the pipe at the PD is 10 mm? Can the same id pipe be used or is a transition piece, coupling, or crimp required?

***
Let's refer to the steel sections as pipe, and the flexible sections as hose.

The hose sections are all the same diameter - the same hydraulic hose, with the same crimps on each end. At the pump end, the hose is crimped over a barb joined to a 13 mm pipe. You will reuse this barb/pipe: the shop will crimp a new hose over it. This is the bit of pipe you need to cut to get the thing out of the car.

Same for the 10 mm intermediate section (which you appear not to have, but I'd like to know for sure). The hose is crimped over a barb joined to a 10 mm pipe. Barb and pipe are reused.

Same for the connection at the end of the hose where it goes though to the wheel well; this goes to a piece of 10 mm pipe.

***

Now what I think you will have to do, in fact I am pretty certain, is get your hose made in two pieces, with a join here like I did, except yours will be hose to hose, rather than hose to pipe like mine. This is because you won't be able to snake the hose back in in one piece without it.

But I may be wrong on that (amazingly enough, it has happened before), so my advice would be to have it all made in one section, then if you cannot thread it though take it back to the hydraulic shop and get them to cut it and crimp it onto another joiner, then tighten it together in situ. That's a click of the fingers for those guys, but make sure you maintain the same overall length.