This is the main line that goes from the pump to the pulsation dampener/valve block union on first generation ABC R230s. I don't know if it's the same on ABC2 cars.
This line is in two pieces. The first piece has two separate flexible sections. Mine wasn't leaking but I decided to rebuild it anyway before it blew and stranded me. This joins to the second section via a union; this short section goes up to the pulsation dampener and had started to leak so I did both sections.
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I had previously replaced both lines with one long custom made line which snaked around under the bumper and up under the guard. I do not recommend this experiment now. It worked fine and did not leak but had a noticeable vibration around 2000 RPM which I think was a consequence of some pulsation characteristic in the fluid being pumped around the system in its new, different path length. The original long line was there for a purpose.
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So it's back in with the old lines. Lucky I kept it all! You cannot buy the main section new now from MB, at least here anyway. You also can't get it out without dropping the subframe as far as I know, perhaps there's a way, but I had previously cut it twice anyway to fit the experimental long line. If you want to do this repair you will have to cut the steel line here with a pipe cutter but measure the length as the new stainless compression fitting means you'll have to take a section out of the pipe - about an inch. This big fitting is I think 13 mm but the hydraulic shop will know and have them. They're big chunky units with a two-piece ferrule that crimps on. No leaks!:
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Then the new flexible section which you can see to the left of the above photo (wrapped in tape) goes to this connection below. Cut the steel line but leave at least a 10-15 mm straight section of the pipe, just forward of where you can see the new nut which has been fitted over a steel ferrule which the hydraulic shop will crimp on to the steel line:
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Following the line around, here is the new flexible section the shop crimped in for me:
![Image]()
I wrapped it all in new thick heat resistant tape; hopefully at least as good as the original. You can see the new crimps at each end of the line. They're new, with the new hose. Moving on towards the PD we come to the second section which bolts to the first with a union. Here you see this new short piece with new crimps:
![Image]()
I needed to make a few high-tech 'special tools'. Tackle this job and you'll find out where you need them:
![Image]()
You'll need 11/16" and 3/4" spanners for the small fitting, and 21 and 22 mm for the larger stainless one.
Result: vibration gone, no leaks and new flexible hose sections!
Tom
This line is in two pieces. The first piece has two separate flexible sections. Mine wasn't leaking but I decided to rebuild it anyway before it blew and stranded me. This joins to the second section via a union; this short section goes up to the pulsation dampener and had started to leak so I did both sections.
**
I had previously replaced both lines with one long custom made line which snaked around under the bumper and up under the guard. I do not recommend this experiment now. It worked fine and did not leak but had a noticeable vibration around 2000 RPM which I think was a consequence of some pulsation characteristic in the fluid being pumped around the system in its new, different path length. The original long line was there for a purpose.
**
So it's back in with the old lines. Lucky I kept it all! You cannot buy the main section new now from MB, at least here anyway. You also can't get it out without dropping the subframe as far as I know, perhaps there's a way, but I had previously cut it twice anyway to fit the experimental long line. If you want to do this repair you will have to cut the steel line here with a pipe cutter but measure the length as the new stainless compression fitting means you'll have to take a section out of the pipe - about an inch. This big fitting is I think 13 mm but the hydraulic shop will know and have them. They're big chunky units with a two-piece ferrule that crimps on. No leaks!:
Then the new flexible section which you can see to the left of the above photo (wrapped in tape) goes to this connection below. Cut the steel line but leave at least a 10-15 mm straight section of the pipe, just forward of where you can see the new nut which has been fitted over a steel ferrule which the hydraulic shop will crimp on to the steel line:
Following the line around, here is the new flexible section the shop crimped in for me:
I wrapped it all in new thick heat resistant tape; hopefully at least as good as the original. You can see the new crimps at each end of the line. They're new, with the new hose. Moving on towards the PD we come to the second section which bolts to the first with a union. Here you see this new short piece with new crimps:
I needed to make a few high-tech 'special tools'. Tackle this job and you'll find out where you need them:
You'll need 11/16" and 3/4" spanners for the small fitting, and 21 and 22 mm for the larger stainless one.
Result: vibration gone, no leaks and new flexible hose sections!
Tom
