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Questions When Purchasing a 1972 350SL

9.9K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  MBGraham  
#1 ·
I’m new to this forum and have a few question on what to look for and consider when purchasing a ‘72 350SL.

I have experience restoring cars, but have never worked on a Mercedes before.

Let me describe the car I’m looking at. As I have said it is a ‘72 350SL with 68,500. The current owner has owned the car for 13 years and bought the car directly from the original owner. The car has always been garaged and has no rust original paint and interior both are in excellent condition. The car has always been used as a pleasure/2nd car.

The original owner maintained the car for several years, but as it got older just did normal maintenance, oil changes etc. The current owner has done the same since he has owned it.

In terms of driving the car, the current owner drove it once last year and maybe about 2 to 3 times the year before. He did start it regularly.

My question is what are items that you would be concerned about in terms of required maintenance and possible repair given the kind of life the car has lived? Are there known problems these cars have had over the years that I should be aware of? What areas should be inspected.

Thanks for your help!
 
#4 ·
I have restored several 50 plus year old cars. As I said, I’m not that familiar with the common problems with this particular car and that is what I’m looking for guidance on.

As I stated cosmetically the car is in excellent shape especially given it’s age. Not sure how to post pics yet. Asking price is $22k

Thanks
 
#3 ·
I've had a '73 for the last 10 years (same car as the one you are looking at mechanically and electrically). Nobby's recommendation with the link above will explain the subframe issue; nice if that is done on this car you are interested in. Timing chain guides are metal backed on ours - I've never worried about them so mine will break tomorrow. Lot's of Bosch D-Jet knowledge present and posted on this forum. You've come to the right place.

These cars are easy to work on - just different engineering. Welcome to the forum!
 
#8 · (Edited)
I don't know much about D-jet fuel injection but over the years have read that they are tricky to fix and adjust.
I think $22K is too much to pay for a 1972 model year. I wouldn't even consider that price for a pristine example with manual transmission - JMPOOC.

If you like the styling of these type R107 Mercedes and $22K is in your budget, I would look at the 1980's version of these cars - either 1989-1986 560SL or the 1981-1985 380SL. You should be able to find a really nice well maintained driver example of the 560SL for $22K and under, and a really nice well maintained driver example of the 380SL for even less. For the 380SLs, just make sure that the single row timing chain has been converted to dual row timing chain. The 560SLs are the most refined models of these series of Mercedes R107s. The later model years 450SLs are desirable, in my opinion, like the 1977-1980 450SLs. Of course, I would seriously consider any year of the R107 model year run (1971-1989) if it had Euro bumpers and Manual Transmission.

I have both a 1983 380SL and a 1986 560SL and both of my cars are quite easy to work on and a pleasure to drive. When I say "easy to work on" I mean take advantage of this forum's collective knowledge here to learn about maintenance and repairs and you should be able to do most of the wrenching yourself. Do prepare that there is going to be some "wrenching" and don't think you can take it to any shop to get things fixed. In addition, shops that can properly work on these cars are going to considerably lighten your wallet. For most of us here, hiring out work to be done is pretty much out of the question.

"Adopting" an R107 Mercedes could be a long life experience. If you enjoy learning and really get into these vintage Mercedes you likely will make this an enjoyable hobby for many years. I've enjoyed my 380SL for getting close to 40 years and like many folks here its our main hobby and "obsession" ... cheaper than playing Golf and hitting bars :)

So in summary, $22K is a little too rich for what I have read so far - maybe some others can chime in.
 
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#9 ·
Carl, Thanks for your input. I really appreciate your opinion and observations. The guy is asking $22K for the car and based on NADA and several other services they indicate a ‘72 350SL to have a average value of $24K. I was hoping to pay between $18 to $20 for the car. Maybe that is still to much??
I will try and post some pictures so everyone can see the car!
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have that same car. I would be more than happy if it was worth that much.

I paid C$17k for my car 31 years ago. Probably spent at least that again along the way. 160k miles, cosmetically very good, new convertible top, hard top, new interior, Engine runs perfectly. New tires. Front end & linkages redone. New rad. A/C not working. Steering box, oil cooler lines, diff all have small leaks.

My car is insured for C$12k (aboutUS$9k) and I would be happy to get that if it was written off.

I have a good write up somewhere on buying one of these cars. I will see if I can find it. OK - Not the ones I was looking for. Both UK based, so ignore the pricing - they get more for them over there.


I don't agree with Carl that these cars with Djetronic fuel injection are tricky to work on. They are actually quite simple, but are 'different' and few mechanics are familiar with them. Some djet parts are getting hard to find or are expensive. But that may also in part be true for the later cars with mechanical injection. The later models have more conventional fuel injection but are, it seems, tricky in other ways. Overall being newer, likely more complex overall. If you really want to spend $20k, a nice low mileage rust free 88 or 89 560SL might be a good bet.

The car appears to have been repainted. Looks great, but it would be interesting to know history and whether it had been in an accident or needed rust repairs.

Carpets look new. Have a look under the front carpets and see if they still have the original rubber below. That area is prone to rusting if water gets in. Another rust prone area, is on the firewall below the battery. Might be hard to see there, so look up under passenger side dash. That is where the ECU is, so gain it might not be easy to see if any patches have been made.

Does A/C work?

Radio looks like an original Becker - Good or bad depending on how you look at it :)

You can determine the original options from the plate up near the rad and the list in link at bottom (sorry for poor quality - cut from one of your pics!)
2687695


 
#10 ·
Here are a few pictures of the car. I will try and post more!
 

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#14 ·
It looks very neat, as for the asking price it may seem high but then again this is a well maintained early model and there's probably not too many left in this condition. You may want to take a look at others to help you gauge if the price is high, low, or just about right.
 
#18 ·
Bring a Trailer shows some high prices for 72 350SLs. Quick look and the high prices were for either low mileage cars or Euro cars with manual transmissions. Nevertheless, pricing seemed fairly strong. For my 72 with 160k+ miles, no A/C, I would have to look at the lower numbers. Canadian market probably different and not selling anyway :)
 
#19 ·
Pretty is the first thing you see and the last thing you should concern yourself with. There are many parts lurking inside that engine that don't fail from mileage but rather from age. I'm of course talking about plastic parts used inside the engine. The guides on a '72 350 may be metal backed so outright breaking may not be a major concern but generally speaking the parts to worry about that give interference engine owners nightmares are the guides, the chain, the sprockets, the tensioner, the oiler tubes and the cam towers (which in my engine are aluminum without any bushings).

There are so many things to worry about in a 50 year old Mercedes V8 that I couldn't begin to mention them all... suffice it to say these engines are nothing like working on a small block Chevy.
Parts will be a problem... that's a given.

Rust is a major concern and don't let appearances fool you... the worst rust on these cars is the rust you can't see.

My best advice is to have a professional, who knows these cars inside and out, look it over before you pluck down dollar one. $22K is way out of line for the average 50 year old R107 unless it has passed the scrutiny of a professional well versed in these cars.

I own an '83 380sl that I bought new in '83. In my mind I knew this cars history like I know the back of my hand so I didn't even hesitate to take on the renovation of my own car that had sat for 20 years, more or less under a tarp at all times. If I knew then what I know now I may have still taken on the renovation but I would have been better prepared for what I was in for, think dollars... lots an lots of dollars.

Please... seek professional advice on price before you buy, and do try to curb your enthusiasm based on your extensive experience with other 50 year old relics from the past. Very little will translate directly to the care and feeding of a classic R107 V8.

Best of luck to you and welcome to the forum.