part 2

 

part 3

 

part 4

 

part 5

 

Last but not least!

 

Great job , assuming that was a job that requires high skill , I didn't know it would be that much lol
What a tricky job to tackle and was not aware of blue tranny fluid at all

 

I'm 100% Convinced after doing this Service, that M-B is Purposefully making Simple Servicing soooooo miserable and Complicated.... NO ONE will want to attempt to "DIY".

Think about it... They started with the 722.6 Box which has NO DIPSTICK... You either buy the stupid $75 Dipstick, or Don't do the job!

Now? You don't even have a dipstick Tube... and you need a frikkin' COMPUTER to do an Oil Change.

Flaming Silly-ness!! for most owners..... But it is "FUN" for me!!!

 

Thanks for the write-up. I'd love toget a service manual for this car, just to figure out if/when I'd want to take it to the dealer for service. Is that really the method-drain it, measure, and add the same+.5L? Is it so hard to figure out what the amount needed is and put it in the manual? Crazy.

 

Yes, for the Filling "after transmission repair" (as opposed to a NEW transmission being installed, where there is NO fluid lurking around) they State "Add drained Quantity plus 0.5L"

This is so there is enough excess oil ABOVE the Stand Pipe, so you get the Thick, steady flow of "Excess" Oil out the Tube/Drain hole. As the oil level reaches the Top of the Tube the flow starts to peter out.. and become a fragmented Stream of Oil.

 

Thank you G-AMG for a great post. My W212 probably has another year before changing the ATF but I need to understand the procedures upfront. After read your entire post, can I draw the following conclusions? (based on an engineering mind)

The bottom line is the car must be in a flat position and obey the 45 C degree rule

1. If the car is parked/lift in a flat position and the temperature of the ATF is at 45 C degrees (while engine running), there will be no or very little ATF comes out when remove the draining plug at the green raiser pipe.

2. There is no need to measure old fluid because the green raiser pipe will prevent from overfilling anyway - the magic of overflown concept.

3. If space is allowed to extend the green raiser pipe higher (require new design), it's possible to top off the ATF without having concern about under or overfill when the car reaches normal temperature (90 degrees? at least indication of the temperature gauge on my 2011 E350). This should be a new suggestion to MB.

 

Just found this, any feedback?

 

Just found this, any feedback?

Mercedes W204 C Class Transmission Service ATF Fluid Oil Change 7GTronic 722.9 Test 0-60 mph - YouTube

Very clever idea with limited tools - No wonder he is an engineer

I will do mine probably a year from now (only 23,000 miles) but I may change the ATF with cold engine. Here is the concept how to do it. Please let me know what you all think:

1. Jack the car up and use 4 jack stands to support. Don't care if the car is perfect level or not because it is in the same position when you drain and fill the fluid.

2. While the engine is cold, unplug the drain plug and collect every drop of oil and carefully measure it (figure out total amount of ATF above the overflow pipe at cold engine) - this is very important because the same amount of new oil will be pumped back in on top of other amount in Step 3. Assume transmission is not leaking or lost fluid earlier.

3. Drain the rest of oil from TC, oil pan, etc... and refill with new fluid similar to the processes that Stott and G-AMG did or use whatever method/tools you are comfortable with to pump the oil in. The question is how much oil is needed to pump in at this time? Let assume your car's transmission requires 9 litters then you take 9 subtracts to the amount you collected in Step 2 and add 1 litter extra to make a total. Besides your wallet and environmentally unfriendly, it won't hurt to pump in 9 liters at this time - assume your tranny capacity is 9 liters.

4. Start the engine to allow new oil filling up TC and circulating through the transmission coolant lines, etc. Shift all gears several times (using steering wheel paddle shifters if equipped) and wait for 10 seconds between gears to flush out any air pocket. Don't forget to shift neutral & reverse gears too.

5. Let the oil temperature cool down (similar to the temperature in Step 2). If necessary leave the car overnight to cool down.

6. With cold engine, open the valve on the filling nozzle/pumping fixture to allow excess oil above the overflow pipe running out. Similar to the Step 2 above but don't need to measure excess oil.

7. After all excess oil came out, while engine is still off, pump in the same amount of fluid that was measured in Step 2 with fresh oil.

8. Start the engine and wait for 60 seconds or so to allow the oil level in the pan dropping below the top of the overflow pipe (because the oil in pan is pumped up to TC and filled other parts), remove the filling nozzle (oil should not come out at this time) and quickly install the drain plug while engine still running. It's critical to complete this step before the ATF in the transmission reaches 45 Celsius degrees. NOTE: 60 secs is a guessing time for complete oil circulation but its temperature won't reach 45 C or 113 F.

 

Not sure if its okay or not but this post on mbworld has some detailed documentation on the process. DIY 722.9 7G-tronic 7-speed automatic transmission service thread - MBWorld.org Forums

 

Finally did this yesterday. All went well for the time, I could do it again in no time.

The toughest thing was getting to the torque converter drain plug, its a such a difficult angle. I was worried about stripping it. I had to bend a metal bar out of the way that was in front. Im sure if I had a more robust selection of tools it wouldnt have been a problem.

In the end I drained out 8.5L (seems thats how much everyone has), put it 9L at once, warmed up to proper temp and let approx .5L drain out until it slowed to a trickle.

I added a neomydium magnet to the pan for extra protection.

The only thing I forgot to do was flush the oil cooler line which is shown on the youtube video, I will do it next time.

At the end of the day serious money saved!

 

Finally did this yesterday. All went well for the time, I could do it again in no time.

The toughest thing was getting to the torque converter drain plug, its a such a difficult angle. I was worried about stripping it. I had to bend a metal bar out of the way that was in front. Im sure if I had a more robust selection of tools it wouldnt have been a problem.

In the end I drained out 8.5L (seems thats how much everyone has), put it 9L at once, warmed up to proper temp and let approx .5L drain out until it slowed to a trickle.

I added a neomydium magnet to the pan for extra protection.

The only thing I forgot to do was flush the oil cooler line which is shown on the youtube video, I will do it next time.

At the end of the day serious money saved!

Hello. How much oil would you say came out Without draining the Torque converter? About 6? I was planning to do this job but without draining the torque converter. Thank you.

 

The whole world knows that MB is trying damn hard to screw the MB owners. MB sings "You can't touch this!" !

 

Thank you MB for fooling us. In MB, we TRUST very much!
MB is going to lose many loyal customers. We know what their intentions are...

 

This thread is excellent!
I have a 2010 e350 luxury and the build paper shows 722.906 transmission. it's at ~37000 miles and it'll have the first transmission flush this coming friday. I talked to SA over email and he told that he would drain the TC if there is a drain plug (didn't verify or deny the drain plug). I want confirmation from forum experts if my cars transmission has a TC drain plug.
Thanks,

 

Hey, where did you get the "Chevy Chute"?? Looks really handy!

 

2013 E350 Trans 722.906 Torque Converter can't access drain Plug

I have been studying this thread for a while and it is awesome. I am at 39k miles and ready to do the oil change. I wanted to make sure I had everything I needed before I began. I was surprised to discover I can't get a tool into the torque converter housing. There seems to be a design change.

2013 E350 Sport Coupe
VIN WDDHF5KBXDA662249
Engine 276.952
Transmission 722.906

I seem to have a challenge with the change in transmission case access to the torque converter drain plug.

I can't get the 6 mm tool onto the drain plug due to the location. In this 2013 design the opening has changed .

Can anyone share how I am supposed to do this?



Devoir

 

2013 E350 Trans 722.906 Torque Converter can't access drain Plug

I have been studying this thread for a while and it is awesome. I am at 39k miles and ready to do the oil change. I wanted to make sure I had everything I needed before I began. I was surprised to discover I can't get a tool into the torque converter housing. There seems to be a design change.

2013 E350 Sport Coupe
VIN WDDHF5KBXDA662249
Engine 276.952
Transmission 722.906

I seem to have a challenge with the change in transmission case access to the torque converter drain plug.


View attachment 1779626




I can't get the 6 mm tool onto the drain plug due to the location. In this 2013 design the opening has changed . While the picture doesn't quite show it the Drain plug is under the edge of the bell housing.


View attachment 1779634


Can anyone share how I am supposed to do this?



Devoir

 

I obvisouly don't know how to edit post please ignore the double post.

 

2013 E350 Bell Housing

Wow I have scratched my head for a few hours so I did a search for 2013 E350 Bell Housing . I found an image that looks like my photo I posted yesterday for this year model. It appears the 2013 model has shifted access to the 10 o'clock position to gain access to insert a tool to remove the drain plug. Then you would rotate the engine until the torque converter points downwards for draining. I just love how Benz has added a new challenge. I don't yet have a clue to how difficult it will be to reach that spot. Even more challenging will be to put the plug back in. I'm glad I bought a few plugs I can drop a few and hope they pop out of the bottom hole.

If anyone has any experience with this type of bell housing I could use some advise

Devoir

 

If anyone has any experience with this type of bell housing I could use some advise Devoir

Take a look at post #4 in this thread.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w212-e-class/2493905-help-hex-screw-fell-inside-torque.html

 

6-Speed many thanks I read post #4 in the other thread it certainly sounds like they have a similar concern... I will attempt accessing from the side as suggested in their post.




It would have been great if they had posted a picture similar to what I have done here.


Many thanks to 6-speed for assistance




Devoir

 

Devoir ... let us know how it goes with the fluid change along with any tips. Looks like I have the same challenge with the TC drain plug on my 2012 E350. Do you think a ball ended Allen bit would help loosen the TC drain plug at that odd angle?

 

Upper Access 722.906

I put the car up on the jacks today to see if I could get to the upper access port shown in a prior post . The rubber plug is just visible in the photo. It is very high up and I'm not sure how to get to this ..... or if it will even allow you to drain the torque converter.

Does anyone have access to the latest WIS on the 2013 E350's to see if this is even possible?

Otherwise all I can do is drain the pan and cooler lines.

Devoir

 

Great thread.

Procedure a bit more than what I want to get into but....

I'd love to have a set of the jack adapters (w203 589 02 31 00). Anyone have an online source for these? Thanks

 

ESCO model 10498/19499 jack stands

I chose to purchase a set of ESCO model 10498/19499 jack stands will fit into the jack points for Mercedes. I did purchase a set of the pads that fit on a stand however I felt this design would prevent the pad from slipping off of the jack stand....

found on eBay

Devoir

 

Universal for Mercedes Benz Square Slot Jack Pad Adapter

Universal for Mercedes Benz Square Slot Jack Pad Adapter can be found on Amazon or ebay for as little as $9 each. This type requires a round flat jack stand surface they will not work on the yoke type stands....

Devoir