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Photo DIY- 722.905 "7G Tronic" NAG 2+ Transmission Oil/Filter Change

98598 Views 37 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Tom24GR
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As a very Clear Preface... this job is not for the average DIY'er. It requires a "Significant" number of Tools, including the STAR Computer, access to the LATEST WIS, which is AN ABSOLUTE **MUST** IN ORDER TO CORRECTLY ADJUST THE FLUID LEVEL!!!

Also, I will be *CLEAR*, there are MULTIPLE VARIATIONS of these Transmissions, you MUST VERY VERY CAREFULLY Research you exact Transmission, to ascertain WHICH procedure to use, and which Transmission FLUID to use... the Latest uses the New 236.15 Spec Fluid which is BLUE!!!!! This Fluid is ***NOT*** Back-Compatible!!!

This Post is for a 722.905 NAG2+ Box in a 2011 E350 (212.056), which was Built AFTER the Latest/Greatest Update which was on June 21, 2010, so all vehicles after this date "Should" have the Green Overflow Pipe, and Beveled Pan. Again, *YOU MUST BE 100% POSITIVE* about your Transmission prior to starting the job.

ANOTHER *HUGE* CAVEAT!!- *DO NOT ATTEMPT THE "I'LL TAKE A LASER TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENT OF THE PAN" TRICK TO GET THE OIL TEMPERATURE!!!" I have a nice, High-End Fluke Laser Thermometer, and what I was measuring at the Pan, and what STAR was Reporting??? It was OFF by a much as 10 C!!!! ***YOU MUST BE EXACTLY ON TARGET TEMP TO DO THIS JOB!!!***, and the Car must be **LEVEL**, so you will have to have it on 4 equal Ramps/Jack-Stands.

As you know, there is NO Dipstick to check the Fluid Level, and you "Pump" the Oil *UP* via the Drain-Hole. Instead, one needs to bring the oil Temp to a PRECISE temperature, and "Visually" evaluate the Flow of Oil out the Stand Pipe. What an IDIOTIC way to do an automotive job!!! My "moderate flow" or "Drip pattern" may be waaaay different than the next guy's interpretation. It's quite a "Joke" in my mind... BUT!! You must change the fluid in these boxes... so you're STUCK!!

Over-Maintaining me... I'm doing the Service at 30,000 Miles, instead of the Recommended 39,000 Mile interval.

In summary, I Intended this post to be "ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY!!!!!!!" If you Don't have the Proper Set-Up, DON'T DO THE JOB!!

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part 3

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part 4

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part 5

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Last but not least!

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Great job , assuming that was a job that requires high skill , I didn't know it would be that much lol
What a tricky job to tackle and was not aware of blue tranny fluid at all
Great job , assuming that was a job that requires high skill , I didn't know it would be that much lol
What a tricky job to tackle and was not aware of blue tranny fluid at all
I'm 100% Convinced after doing this Service, that M-B is Purposefully making Simple Servicing soooooo miserable and Complicated.... NO ONE will want to attempt to "DIY".

Think about it... They started with the 722.6 Box which has NO DIPSTICK... You either buy the stupid $75 Dipstick, or Don't do the job!

Now? You don't even have a dipstick Tube... and you need a frikkin' COMPUTER to do an Oil Change.

Flaming Silly-ness!! for most owners..... But it is "FUN" for me!!!
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Thanks for the write-up. I'd love toget a service manual for this car, just to figure out if/when I'd want to take it to the dealer for service. Is that really the method-drain it, measure, and add the same+.5L? Is it so hard to figure out what the amount needed is and put it in the manual? Crazy.
Thanks for the write-up. I'd love toget a service manual for this car, just to figure out if/when I'd want to take it to the dealer for service. Is that really the method-drain it, measure, and add the same+.5L? Is it so hard to figure out what the amount needed is and put it in the manual? Crazy.
Yes, for the Filling "after transmission repair" (as opposed to a NEW transmission being installed, where there is NO fluid lurking around) they State "Add drained Quantity plus 0.5L"

This is so there is enough excess oil ABOVE the Stand Pipe, so you get the Thick, steady flow of "Excess" Oil out the Tube/Drain hole. As the oil level reaches the Top of the Tube the flow starts to peter out.. and become a fragmented Stream of Oil.
Thank you G-AMG for a great post. My W212 probably has another year before changing the ATF but I need to understand the procedures upfront. After read your entire post, can I draw the following conclusions? (based on an engineering mind)

The bottom line is the car must be in a flat position and obey the 45 C degree rule

1. If the car is parked/lift in a flat position and the temperature of the ATF is at 45 C degrees (while engine running), there will be no or very little ATF comes out when remove the draining plug at the green raiser pipe.

2. There is no need to measure old fluid because the green raiser pipe will prevent from overfilling anyway - the magic of overflown concept.

3. If space is allowed to extend the green raiser pipe higher (require new design), it's possible to top off the ATF without having concern about under or overfill when the car reaches normal temperature (90 degrees? at least indication of the temperature gauge on my 2011 E350). This should be a new suggestion to MB.
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Yes, for the Filling "after transmission repair" (as opposed to a NEW transmission being installed, where there is NO fluid lurking around) they State "Add drained Quantity plus 0.5L"

This is so there is enough excess oil ABOVE the Stand Pipe, so you get the Thick, steady flow of "Excess" Oil out the Tube/Drain hole. As the oil level reaches the Top of the Tube the flow starts to peter out.. and become a fragmented Stream of Oil.
G-AMG,

What advice can you give me to do this DIY? I did the ATF change on my BMW e60 and it was a similar process but I used the pan temp as a reference. I have the skillset to do the job but I also want to get as close to the right temp as possible. Any help will be appreciated...
Just found this, any feedback?

Very clever idea with limited tools - No wonder he is an engineer :)

I will do mine probably a year from now (only 23,000 miles) but I may change the ATF with cold engine. Here is the concept how to do it. Please let me know what you all think:

1. Jack the car up and use 4 jack stands to support. Don't care if the car is perfect level or not because it is in the same position when you drain and fill the fluid.

2. While the engine is cold, unplug the drain plug and collect every drop of oil and carefully measure it (figure out total amount of ATF above the overflow pipe at cold engine) - this is very important because the same amount of new oil will be pumped back in on top of other amount in Step 3. Assume transmission is not leaking or lost fluid earlier.

3. Drain the rest of oil from TC, oil pan, etc... and refill with new fluid similar to the processes that Stott and G-AMG did or use whatever method/tools you are comfortable with to pump the oil in. The question is how much oil is needed to pump in at this time? Let assume your car's transmission requires 9 litters then you take 9 subtracts to the amount you collected in Step 2 and add 1 litter extra to make a total. Besides your wallet and environmentally unfriendly, it won't hurt to pump in 9 liters at this time - assume your tranny capacity is 9 liters.

4. Start the engine to allow new oil filling up TC and circulating through the transmission coolant lines, etc. Shift all gears several times (using steering wheel paddle shifters if equipped) and wait for 10 seconds between gears to flush out any air pocket. Don't forget to shift neutral & reverse gears too.

5. Let the oil temperature cool down (similar to the temperature in Step 2). If necessary leave the car overnight to cool down.

6. With cold engine, open the valve on the filling nozzle/pumping fixture to allow excess oil above the overflow pipe running out. Similar to the Step 2 above but don't need to measure excess oil.

7. After all excess oil came out, while engine is still off, pump in the same amount of fluid that was measured in Step 2 with fresh oil.

8. Start the engine and wait for 60 seconds or so to allow the oil level in the pan dropping below the top of the overflow pipe (because the oil in pan is pumped up to TC and filled other parts), remove the filling nozzle (oil should not come out at this time) and quickly install the drain plug while engine still running. It's critical to complete this step before the ATF in the transmission reaches 45 Celsius degrees. NOTE: 60 secs is a guessing time for complete oil circulation but its temperature won't reach 45 C or 113 F.
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Not sure if its okay or not but this post on mbworld has some detailed documentation on the process. DIY 722.9 7G-tronic 7-speed automatic transmission service thread - MBWorld.org Forums
Finally did this yesterday. All went well for the time, I could do it again in no time.

The toughest thing was getting to the torque converter drain plug, its a such a difficult angle. I was worried about stripping it. I had to bend a metal bar out of the way that was in front. Im sure if I had a more robust selection of tools it wouldnt have been a problem.

In the end I drained out 8.5L (seems thats how much everyone has), put it 9L at once, warmed up to proper temp and let approx .5L drain out until it slowed to a trickle.

I added a neomydium magnet to the pan for extra protection.

The only thing I forgot to do was flush the oil cooler line which is shown on the youtube video, I will do it next time.

At the end of the day serious money saved!
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The whole world knows that MB is trying damn hard to screw the MB owners. MB sings "You can't touch this!" !
Thank you MB for fooling us. In MB, we TRUST very much!
MB is going to lose many loyal customers. We know what their intentions are...
This thread is excellent!
I have a 2010 e350 luxury and the build paper shows 722.906 transmission. it's at ~37000 miles and it'll have the first transmission flush this coming friday. I talked to SA over email and he told that he would drain the TC if there is a drain plug (didn't verify or deny the drain plug). I want confirmation from forum experts if my cars transmission has a TC drain plug.
Thanks,
Hey, where did you get the "Chevy Chute"?? Looks really handy!
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