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I bought the Mercedes pigtails for the magnets, they didn't have for sensors. But I've discovered other sources for oil wicking, like the oil level sensor, the oil pressure control solenoid, this controls the "fuel saving" oil pressure reduction strategy the geniuses at MB thought up, there is a pigtail inside the timing chain cover for this, these all show signs of leaking and wicking oil into the harness as well, I've replaced the other sensors, but next oil change the level sensor gets changed, and the oil pressure solenoid, I'm thinking of getting another solenoid and pigtail to plug up and in effect disabling the oil pressure reduction in my engine, I don't like the idea of pistons not getting oil sprayed on their bottoms to cool and lubricate them or the reduction of oil pressure to timing chain tensioners, or lack of oil pressure to camshaft adjusters where the manufacture of the adjusters did warn MB that reducing oil pressure may have negative affects, i.e. wear of lock plates and pins. It would be better if it could be coded out of the strategy to save my engine and extend its life. It's just a thought.
I have also heard of another common problem on Gle350 and even on the c300 and that is cam phaser failure which offset the timing. Thanks for the info on the lack of oil pressure on the chain and guides. What is the solution to get more oil pressure on the chain and bottom of the pistons? My mechanic was telling me that Gle350 2016 to 2019 has weak pistons and you have the change the oil at 5000 miles intervals but i could not quite understand what he means by weak pistons. Any idea?
 
I have also heard of another common problem on Gle350 and even on the c300 and that is cam phaser failure which offset the timing. Thanks for the info on the lack of oil pressure on the chain and guides. What is the solution to get more oil pressure on the chain and bottom of the pistons? My mechanic was telling me that Gle350 2016 to 2019 has weak pistons and you have the change the oil at 5000 miles intervals but i could not quite understand what he means by weak pistons. Any idea?
Not aware of any piston issues as to “weak”, save the oil pressure reduction strategy built into the system. As I had mentioned others have brought this up, so finding a solution is still in the trial phase. I’m hoping someone can find a way to disable it in the software, code it out, or off. If you want a solid answer for your engine and wear, Blackstone Labs, can do a baseline oil analysis, then drive for 5k and resubmit another oil analysis and see how your engine is doing for wear, they will make recommendations as to the oil change interval. There are YouTube videos on the oil analysis and process, please check those out. I am inclined to fact based information, and not, ”just take my word”.
 
Went ahead and ordered the FCP Euro kit! I'm at just about 60K and haven't had any trouble (that I'm aware of yet), but thought it prudent to take the preventative measure. The kit's like 1/4 the price I've been quoted by indies around here, so I'll attempt it myself. Looks pretty straight forward, but any additional tips and tricks I should be aware of? What weird things have you guys come across when performing this service?
 
P0342 (Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low) came up and now I'm reading about this M278 issue of oil leak from camshaft sensors which seems to be quite common in the M278 engine... I suspect that is what is happening. Going to get it to the shop next week to check.
I have read cases where oil goes so far into the engine harness and people have to replace hardness, ECU, O2 sensor, etc. If the camshaft. If the error has just come up what's the likelihood that the oil has gone far into the harndess?
My plan is to have the mechanic confirm the presence of oil, and if the oil hasn't traveled too far up, change all cam sensors (the newer version of the sensor supposedly has a revised design?) and also add pigtail extensions to isolate the engine harness...
 
You guys know how easy it is to check for oil in the ECU, right ? I dis-connected the main battery AND the aux battery in the dash. There are (2) big plugs that are obvious on the ECU, which is on the front driver's side of the engine. If you look in the engine compartment and don't recognize the ECU, Do Not try this 😁. There is a large "T" shape slider on the connectors - the connector in the front connector slides towards the front of the car, the one in the back, slides toward the rear. The connectors just lift off. The ECU pulls up and lifts out. Holding the ECU upside down, I sprayed the connector on the ECU liberally with quick-drying contact cleaner, but I DID NOT spray a bunch directly into the ECU. I'd be afraid to get ANY liquid soaked into the ECU. SInce all the power was OFF, I sprayed the snot out of the big connectors on the harness 3 times, just to be sure. I'd NEVER spray into the harness with ANY power connected. I packed dielectric grease into the holes on the connector to hopefully prevent anything from EVER coming down the harness and put it all back together. Held my breath after I re-connected the batteries and hit the START - worked like a charm. Nothing to be afriad of really. Just be totally aware of electrical safety (to the electronics).
 
Hey W212ers,
Longtime lurker on here as a prospective, “hopefully someday,” owner of an M278 E550. In my time on this forum, I’ve seen a lot of murmurings about the somewhat-common issue of oil residue in the engine harness, leading to absurdly expensive repairs. Fearing for the wallet of owners a bit, we've come up with a proven solution using Genuine parts. This one will be a bit lengthy, but I'll lay out all of the info for you as well as the resolution we've found.

How Does Engine Oil End Up in the Harness? What Can Happen?

As I’m sure we’ve all read here at some point, there’s been a lingering issue in which “new-generation” engines wick engine oil through the camshaft adjusters magnet (and sometimes even the camshaft position sensors) and into the wiring harness. Unless the electrical plugs and connectors at these points are inspected regularly, the issue can be pretty tricky to catch in its infancy. Most commonly, owners only discover that oil has run the length of the harness and into the engine computer via a host of fault codes for auxiliary sensors (such as oxygen sensors and ignition coils) suddenly appearing. In these instances, dealers were recommending a full wiring harness and ECU replacement as well as every auxiliary sensor that the harness connects to (as they, too, would accumulate oil as it made its way around the harness). The bill is consistently quoted somewhere between $10,000 and $15,000, and while the issue had initially seemed most prominent on M278/M157 cars, nearly every semi-modern, direct-injected Mercedes on the market is using these same leak-prone camshaft adjuster magnets and cam position sensors. As these cars are aging into a place where higher mileage is a real possibility, we’ve been relatively flabbergasted that Mercedes hasn’t acknowledged the issue at all.

Veterans of the M271 Evo, M272, and M273 engines will recognize that this sounds familiar and may even be recalling a WIS relating to this. You’d be partially correct; on the M271, M272, and M273, this very same issue was prominent enough under warranty that Mercedes developed a “sacrificial wiring pigtail” meant to trap oil leaking through the camshaft magnets prior to reaching the engine harness. Today, most vehicles with these older engines fitted likely already have had these sacrificial pigtails fitted early in life, and the simple wiring splice saved Mercedes a massive amount of money in M271/M272/M273 engine harness repairs.

The catch, however, is that the same issue currently occurring on the “late-model engines” (Anything using the M276-style camshaft magnets, which start in part number “276;” So M270/M274, M260/M264, M276, M256, M133/M139, M278/M157, M177) is happening outside of the warranty period. Despite the scale of the issue, Mercedes have given owners no path of resolution outside of replacing the full engine harness and accessories.

In the interest of finding a quick and easy solution that could save owners money, we found possibly the simplest solution of all. The very same “Sacrificial Pigtail” jumper harness that Mercedes made to stop this issue on earlier engines is compatible with current-generation engines and clicks directly into place without modification. For pennies in comparison, we have a fix for owners worried about oil running the length of their engine harness.

How to Inspect for Oil in the Harness:

To check for oil wicking in the harness, owners should inspect the electrical connectors at the Camshaft Adjuster Magnets and at the Camshaft Position sensors. If the wiring loom is inspected at the camshaft adjusters and the Camshaft Position sensor and no oil is found to be present, the owner can simply add the Mercedes Sacrificial Wiring Pigtail in these locations to prevent them from ever wicking oil into the wiring harness. Cars with one cylinder bank (M270/4, M260/4, M133/139, M256) will require two for the camshaft adjuster magnets and two for the Cam Position sensors. Cars with two cylinder banks (M276, M278/M157, M177) will require twice as many.
View attachment 2798636
The Camshaft Adjuster Magnets on this M133 are circled; Cars with two cylinder banks will have four of these sensors.

In the instance that the Camshaft Adjuster Magnets are inspected and oil is found to be present at the connectors, we recommend the replacement of the Camshaft Adjuster Magnets (to stop the leaking at its source) as well as the addition of the Sacrificial Pigtails, to keep the wiring harness protected in the future. We’ve bundled kits for these as well, which include an electronics-safe solvent to blast the wiring harness plugs and get the residual oil out. There are kits for single-cylinder banks and for double cylinder banks in this instance as well. It would also be wise to add these pigtails to the Camshaft Position Sensors even though they are clean, in case they begin to leak in the future.

View attachment 2798637
The Camshaft Position Sensors are again circled on this M133 to help identify them on your engine; cars with two cylinder banks will have a total of four sensors.

If the Adjuster Magnets are inspected and are found to be clean but the Camshaft Position Sensors show signs of oily residue on the connect plugs, we recommend replacement of the Camshaft Position Sensors (Again, to stop the leaking at its source) as well as the addition of a Sacrificial Pigtail, to keep the wiring harness safe. Once again, there are kits for single-cylinder banks and for double cylinder banks in this instance as well. It is advised to add these pigtails to the Camshaft Adjuster Magnets as well even though they are clean, in case they begin to leak in the future.

Quite frankly, this is a simple fix that anyone can do in their garage; simply adding the pigtails to prevent oil from reaching the harness will take a few seconds if you’re better with the fiddly connectors that Mercedes loves than I am. It's an absolute no-brainer.

Happy Driving!
-Danny
Hi Danny,
My name is Angela. This is exactly the same problem I’m experiencing with my 2017 Mercedes GLE 43 Coupe. I’m being told 10K as you mentioned to repair. I’m a single mom and simply can’t afford this right now, but I need my vehicle to get to work, etc. Do you happen to know any mechanics or can recommend in the Atlanta GA area that can do the work discussed in your post? Thank you so much. Email address awilliams2308@gmail.com
 
Hi Danny,
My name is Angela. This is exactly the same problem I’m experiencing with my 2017 Mercedes GLE 43 Coupe. I’m being told 10K as you mentioned to repair. I’m a single mom and simply can’t afford this right now, but I need my vehicle to get to work, etc. Do you happen to know any mechanics or can recommend in the Atlanta GA area that can do the work discussed in your post? Thank you so much. Email address awilliams2308@gmail.com
Hi Angela, Danny Likely won’t respond to you because he is just selling his products for the company. He represents FCP Euro. I’m not saying that’s a bad thing, FCP Euro is a great company. We all buy our parts from, but he’s not here to help people he is here to sell parts.

There is a chance you may be able to save your car just by cleaning out the electrical connections, changing the leaking cam sensors and leaking cam solenoids, and putting in the wiring pigtails which are all mentioned in the first post in this thread. Dan posted links to buy the parts from his site FCP Euro. But. You’ll need to find a trusted mechanic to do that install . As the Mercedes dealer probably won’t do it for you.
 
Thank you so much! This info is super helpful! Wish me luck on finding a trusted mechanic to do these repairs; and yes you are correct that Mercedes’ Dealer won’t repair for less than 10K which is such a shame. This was my dream car that I scrapped and sacrificed to get for myself after years of taking care of others and now it has become a nightmare. Trying to find a mechanic here in Atlanta GA is another struggle on top of the fact that I don’t have my vehicle. Again please wish me luck. And thank you so much again for this information it has given me some kind of comfort to know that someone cared enough to reach out.
 
Is the part mentioned above the part required for a 2014 E63 AMG-S Wagon? I'm pulling my Oil Pressure solenoid connector in the coming few weeks (and am trying to find something to use as a dummy plug at the engine side (M157)) and would like to do this all at once. Have not definitely experienced an issue as of yet but with the cost of these toys,.. better to be proactive in all these things.

Come on FCP... Sell me stuff!.. just.. the right stuff.

Have a wonderful rest of the weekend.
 
I have a 2016 e400 4matic wagon, 3l twin-turbo V6. I think its the M 276.820 engine. Are there better pictures somewhere of where these connectors are?
 
So now I want to pull the connectors and check for oil without breaking them. They don't look like the others I've seen. Does light grey bit still pull up?
Image
 
OK, so I did manage to lift up the grey tab, but still not able to pull the connector off. Dang.
 
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